The Internals im gonna get.

[TravBear2]

**** Supertech Coated Racing Pistons 10.5:1 Since i wont have to bore the engine out.

****ARP Head and Main Studs

****Supertech High Performance Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers

****High-Performance Intake & Exhaust Valves Stainless Intake Inconel Exhuast

****Pauter Titanium rods (Havent talked to KA24DE.com yet)

****Fel-Pro Head Gasket (anyone heard anthing about these?)

**** 96 LBS 2 OHM Injectors from JWT

****JWT Top Feed Fuel Rail

****Walbro 255 LPH

****JWT Cobra MAF... Or should i go with one from a z32?

****Have not decided on a Exhaust mani yet. But im gonna start with a T3/T4. Has anyone experianced Honeywell's VNT on a turbo?

****xcessivemotorsports intake mani. IF I CAN GET ONE.

****Anyone know if Power Digger intercoolers are still around?

****Custom Intercooler piping.

[virus77]

your gonna need low compression pistons for turbo and I dont see what it has to do with boring your motor out.

I really dont think you need titanium rods, last i heard they are around 800 a piece or something like that.

All together from the looks of things I would say you need to start at a little smaller scale than that for your first project.

What numbers are you going for? is this car for drag, drift, autox, daily driver? how old are you?

[TravBear2]

your gonna need low compression pistons for turbo and I dont see what it has to do with boring your motor out.

I really dont think you need titanium rods, last i heard they are around 800 a piece or something like that.

All together from the looks of things I would say you need to start at a little smaller scale than that for your first project.

What numbers are you going for? is this car for drag, drift, autox, daily driver? how old are you?

Im going for a DD car, but also wanna drag it. Im 20 years old and the supertech low compression pistons require a boring of the engine. So i was gonna get shorter pistons to bring the compression back down. Also this isnt the first 240 ive worked on. Im pretty familar with the KA but of course i still have a lot to learn. I want to have the engine built so that it can handle anything i throw at it. I will start with a lower boost and work my way up.

[Nismochick240]

you're gonna wann run 9:1 or 8:5:1's for a ka-t.... no rods are needed UNLESS you want over 450 hp and something NOT daily driven... i would rethink ur list a lil bit more

[nissanfanatic]

Raising compression for KA-T just because you don't wanna bore the engine is just dumb. Why the hell even do all this stuff and then say "oh, machine work is out of the question,"

What is it too expensive? Or you just don't wanna "waste" the time? Honestly... don't even touch the car if you are gonna skimp on something like that. 10.5:1 and you'll be running 6psi until you either

run high octane fueldo a meth kit(in which case, you could see 15psi on a cold day)or LOWER COMPRESSION RATIO.

And I hope you don't think these pistons are drop in or something... You WILL NOT be putting this stuff on when you get a couple days off from work. More like a weekend project for a couple months.

[virus77]

Im very confused about what you mean about the pistons and I think you are confused aswell.

"supertech low compression pistons require a boring of the engine. So i was gonna get shorter pistons to bring the compression back down."

what does this exactly mean?

Any piston that has a larger bore than stock is going to require your cyclinders to be bored to fit the pistons. Whether you get low compression (for turbo) or high compression (for Normally aspirated) you can get them in standard bore so you dont have to bore the motor or you can get them in oversize, which is recomended to get a proper seal with the pistons anyways since you cylinder walls are thinned slightly from the years of use.

[nissanfanatic]

Didn't even read that.lol

Quote »supertech low compression pistons require a boring of the engine. So i was gonna get shorter pistons to bring the compression back down.[/quote]http://e30m3performance.com/my...o.htm

[TravBear2]

I meant rod sorry. I dont wanna bore out the sleaves because i dont wanna make the walls weaker. Unless you know a company that sell low comp. pistons that dont require boring out the engine. Or some that are the same size.

I know that this isnt a 2 or three day project. That is why im gonna get another KADE to do this to then drop the motor in.

[nissanfanatic]

This link should explain why, in the best interest of a health engine, you should get over your lil stock bore fetish and just have the engine bored out.

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

Just do it. Do it.. No seriously.. do it.

[virus77]

by going .020 overbore you are not going to makes the walls thin enough for it to ever matter. And Arias sells a stock bore 8.7:1 compression piston and im sure some other companies do aswell.

[TravBear2]

Im not really into boring out the engine. I wanna give it a shorter stroke though.

by going .020 overbore you are not going to makes the walls thin enough for it to ever matter. And Arias sells a stock bore 8.7:1 compression piston and im sure some other companies do aswell.

Thanks for showing me those pistons i didnt find any last time i searched the web. To many stupid websites out there. But why does everyone think i should start with a smaller HP goal? Ive driven an RB powered 240 that had all kinds of crazy **** done to it. We never got it dynoed but still had massive amounts of pull to it. Its jsut my first KA that ive built. Im not one for going small and just wanted to know what you all thought about the parts that i was looking at. A lot of great feed back coming from you all but i dont want a lower HP goal. I want a DD that can handle at least 400+ and then when i go to the track i can boost it up to around 500+. I know that there is no set of pistons that are out there that just drop in ...

I really dont think you need titanium rods, last i heard they are around 800 a piece or something like that..

And if the titanium rod are that expensive then they are out of the question for now. How much HP can a set of forged rod handle?

All together from the looks of things I would say you need to start at a little smaller scale than that for your first project.

I want some parts that exceed what i want for now because like everyone says. There will never be enough done to a car to satisfy any man. So why waste the money on some lower quality stuff instead of just going all out on the first try. Im going to have a seperate motor that i will do eveything to so... the length of time that i have to build the motor isnt an issue.

[nismofly]

.020 overbore arias 8.8:1 pistons

crower / pauter rods

machined block and head

probably should do cams and everything while youre in the head

[TravBear2]

Thanks. But do you know how much power a forged rod can handle?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Forged rods can handle over 600 hp.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

oh btw, if you dont know how much forged rods can hold, how do you expect to know how to keep everything together at those hp levels, Up there, crazy stuff happens all the time. spark blows out, boost leaks develop, and SERIOUS tuning is needed... all of this is WAAAAY more complicated than "knowing what a forged rod can hold" but uhh... good luck.

[huguetpj]

I agree with PapaSmurf. You're asking questions which to me say you really don't know what it takes to get 500WHP out of a KA.

By the way.. the Pauter forged rods are advertised as able to handle 800HP.

[TravBear2]

Hmmm. Did you all start out where i am? I dont have the car yet and am asking questions so that i can learn. Thanks for being an *** hole. Remeber back when you didnt know everything? Wow such a short time ago huh... I just wanted some feed back on what i was thinking about getting.

[Jeff240sx]

Im not really into boring out the engine. I wanna give it a shorter stroke though.

Stop. Fail. Pack up and go home. Not boring the block on the average 150k motor rebuild is stupid. Man up and take the 80 pound empty block, and $50 to a machine shop, and have them bored out.Next: destroking is $3k from Crower. I

Quote »Thanks for showing me those pistons i didnt find any last time i searched the web. To many stupid websites out there. But why does everyone think i should start with a smaller HP goal? Ive driven an RB powered 240 that had all kinds of crazy **** done to it. We never got it dynoed but still had massive amounts of pull to it. Its jsut my first KA that ive built. Im not one for going small and just wanted to know what you all thought about the parts that i was looking at. A lot of great feed back coming from you all but i dont want a lower HP goal. I want a DD that can handle at least 400+ and then when i go to the track i can boost it up to around 500+. I know that there is no set of pistons that are out there that just drop in ...[/quote]Stop trying to drop pistons in.

Quote » And if the titanium rod are that expensive then they are out of the question for now. How much HP can a set of forged rod handle?[/quote]Really? Titanium is expensive? When I bought my $800 watch when I was 15 I figured that out. Are these just pipe dreams?

Quote »I want some parts that exceed what i want for now because like everyone says. There will never be enough done to a car to satisfy any man. So why waste the money on some lower quality stuff instead of just going all out on the first try. Im going to have a seperate motor that i will do eveything to so... the length of time that i have to build the motor isnt an issue.[/quote]Ya.. like boring out the motor.

Do yourself and your car a favor and take it to an engine builder, let them order the parts. Because your unobtanium pistons and titanium rods and scored up iron sleeves aren't going to get along. But.. somehow you are going to get 10.5:1 unobtanium pistons, and then have them "take a little off the top" of the rod to bring your CR back down? Before getting pissed at people who think you're an idiot.. research before making that first post. Then you won't come off as a 16 year old who just got a car, and doesn't know a distributor from a oil pump.

Like.. one of the things you should know is that the JWT 96# program isn't out yet. And when it is out, I'd imagine it will run on the Lightning MAF. Either way, asking a forum of people who don't have that tune... versus calling JWT and asking them what maf to get for the unreleased tune. -Jeff

[nissanfanatic]

Quote »Hmmm. Did you all start out where i am? I dont have the car yet and am asking questions so that i can learn. Thanks for being an *** hole. Remeber back when you didnt know everything? Wow such a short time ago huh... I just wanted some feed back on what i was thinking about getting. [/quote]I sure as fcuk didn't insult the people who were actually trying to help me.

And I didn't make posts about stuff I didn't know about. I searched T3h intarw3b. Try and find the last post where I asked a question. You'll find that most of my posts are feedback related/informative.

[TravBear2]

I did try a search but all i found was broken stuff. nothing about what different people were trying and using. All ive done is say thanks for the info. I have actually learn quite a bit form what has been posted here and on other forums on this site but when i get a coment like this:

I agree with PapaSmurf. You're asking questions which to me say you really don't know what it takes to get 500WHP out of a KA.

By the way.. the Pauter forged rods are advertised as able to handle 800HP.

Why would i be asking if i knew what it took. Im trying to learn before i do all of this with a KA. Ive never built a KA. If you look back at my posts they have all be kind and says thanks for the info. I have have really appriciated the feed back. But to come and tell me

Forged rods can handle over 600 hp.

Something like that is much more helpful. And jsut because something is advertised to handle 800+ hp doesnt mean that in the real world it will. Because stuff has flaws and doesnt always work as it should.

"Stop trying to drop pistons in."

I know that pistons arent drop in. Im doing a full motor rebuild if you read y my first post.

For the past week i have been staying up until about 1:30 or 2 in the morning reading and reading and reading some more. Sorry that i havent learned it all yet. I was looking for some good teachers but all i got was flack.

EDIT***[quote=""Globalsilence""]You shouldn't have a problem hitting 400. I would go with a cometic head gasket though. I have the same gaols as you, as far as tuning i decided to go with enthalpy VS jim wolf because Enthalpy seems to have better customer service and nets more HP than JWT. You can get some 700cc injectors from deatschwerks, they drop right in without a fuel rail and are cheaper.[/quote]Thats the post that came from KA-T.org. He didnt tell me how stupid i was for wanting to reach my goal. He gave me a couple of ideas on different parts that he had for experiance.
Modified by TravBear2 at 2:17 PM 11/3/2005

[TravBear2]

oh btw, if you dont know how much forged rods can hold, how do you expect to know how to keep everything together at those hp levels, Up there, crazy stuff happens all the time. spark blows out, boost leaks develop, and SERIOUS tuning is needed... all of this is WAAAAY more complicated than "knowing what a forged rod can hold" but uhh... good luck.

Tell me. How did you learn how to handle what happens up there? Did you experiance it before your car was able to handle that?

[lilskyline240]

Guys, just lay off the guy, hes just tryin to get some info on his build before he buys the wrong stuff or does the wrong thing with it....Hes a beginer in this world and needs a little help and guidence...why push him away??? End of rant

your setup sounds good, but i would think about boring out ur cylinders for the reasons taht everyone else said...helps seal the rings better....also i would go with smaller injectors or your gunna be burnin gas like crazy...Ull need to get ur ECU reprogrammed for the injectors and new MAF by either JWT or Enpathy....for the exhaust manifold i would go with the IAP one cuz i havent heard a bad thing about it...also if your lookin at achieving that kind of power get a stand alone engine manage ment system....to control every aspect of your engine...in that case you wouldnt need the ECU tuning.....if the engine manage ment is too expensive....ull need a Boost controller....and you said u want to build a project for 500+ hp potential, a t3/t4 turbo wont cut it...youll need a good garrett BB turbo...and a good tial wastegate to go along with it....hope i was of some help

[TravBear2]

Like.. one of the things you should know is that the JWT 96# program isn't out yet. And when it is out, I'd imagine it will run on the Lightning MAF. Either way, asking a forum of people who don't have that tune... versus calling JWT and asking them what maf to get for the unreleased tune. -Jeff

http://www.jimwolftechnology.c...s.asp

Wow under there products section they have a Cobra MAF for a KA? Hmm maybe that was what i was talking about.

EDIT: Found the part number for you. To make it easier for you to find.

IMAFC-COBRA

[toki]

lol @ thread starter.

member #39797 of the more money than brains club.

[nissanfanatic]

Full engine rebuild would include at least a hone... But.. we just can't quite see what you mean by putting pistons in without doing some kind of cylinder preparation. It just won't last very long if it even works...

[TravBear2]

lol @ thread starter.

member #39797 of the more money than brains club.

Thanks for the comment. Jsut because ive finally got some money. Someone without any wants to put me down. If it was about more money then brain i would be paying someone like you to do this for me but im not im trying to learn all this so that i can do it myself. I have a passiopn for cars and have all my life. Im sorry that i went a different route then you did and choose to save lives instead of build cars. Give me a break. If i didnt want to learn i wouldnt be here asking questions.

[TravBear2]

Full engine rebuild would include at least a hone... But.. we just can't quite see what you mean by putting pistons in without doing some kind of cylinder preparation. It just won't last very long if it even works...

I can see where you are comign from. I know that a hone is in need but i just didnt wanna go with a full bore. I can see where you were coming from earlier when you said the were on it would already be quite a bit so it wouldnt make that much of a differance. I wasnt thinking about that. Maybe a 20 over is needed. Thanks!

[TravBear2]

Guys, just lay off the guy, hes just tryin to get some info on his build before he buys the wrong stuff or does the wrong thing with it....Hes a beginer in this world and needs a little help and guidence...why push him away??? End of rant

your setup sounds good, but i would think about boring out ur cylinders for the reasons taht everyone else said...helps seal the rings better....also i would go with smaller injectors or your gunna be burnin gas like crazy...Ull need to get ur ECU reprogrammed for the injectors and new MAF by either JWT or Enpathy....for the exhaust manifold i would go with the IAP one cuz i havent heard a bad thing about it...also if your lookin at achieving that kind of power get a stand alone engine manage ment system....to control every aspect of your engine...in that case you wouldnt need the ECU tuning.....if the engine manage ment is too expensive....ull need a Boost controller....and you said u want to build a project for 500+ hp potential, a t3/t4 turbo wont cut it...youll need a good garrett BB turbo...and a good tial wastegate to go along with it....hope i was of some help

Thanks thats really helpful. I was thinking about the Stand alone. Also about the t3/t4 i planned on starting off with that and then moving up later on when i learn for to drive the car. I jsut want all of the internals to be able to handle anything What turbo do you think i should go with. Ive been reading the Garrett site on how to do the turbo mapping thing but i havent yet got it down.

[nissanfanatic]

Nah... Go with like an ECU tune, techtom, and SAFC for yoru first fuel/timing setup. Tuneable, but if you ever mess up, you can go back to square one. Plus it will run well right out of the box, but you can mess with it ot your liking.

[lilskyline240]

Thanks thats really helpful. I was thinking about the Stand alone. Also about the t3/t4 i planned on starting off with that and then moving up later on when i learn for to drive the car. I jsut want all of the internals to be able to handle anything What turbo do you think i should go with. Ive been reading the Garrett site on how to do the turbo mapping thing but i havent yet got it down.

Well i would personally go with the GT3251e....good for bout 500hp and its BB so fast spool up..... and like nissan fanatic said....SAFC and tuned Ecu may be a better choice for u right off the bat....and with not gettin the full engine management, ur savin urself a ton of money too....but im tellin u right now, a 500hp, or even 400hp daily driver...is NOT a smart plan....