The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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OutToWinPAHC
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You wont find them with out being overfender or vented. Id say find another body shop, 2K lol..... I got my fenders done and the front end painted for 1000.


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Michaelmoore
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speedeast wrote:^Everything that can be done to a manual can pretty much be done to an auto. You just won't experience it the same way. Why do you want an auto if you don't mind me asking?

Michaelmoore wrote:Alright so my car finally runs and it runs pretty good until it comes to temp. Once it comes to temp it starts fluctuating from like 450-700 RPM and will eventually die. Could this be tps related? could it be related to air bubbles in the coolant? timing was 20*btdc and we adjusted it to about 21 or 22 and it idled up for a few seconds but then start bouncing around again. anybody have any ideas?

Maybe i should just clean the IACV?
What all have you recently done? What motor, etc? Forgive me for not remembering.


Nvm, we just cleaned out the IACV, regapped the plugs and adjusted/tightened the TPS and it runs like a dream.

pella
Posts: 196
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Car: 1995 240sx S14
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:You wont find them with out being overfender or vented. Id say find another body shop, 2K lol..... I got my fenders done and the front end painted for 1000.


well they said bout 1000 to buy the metal S15 fenders and prob 700 worth at machineshop to cut and weld the S15 and S14 fender together. just rounded up in case lol. i have crappy metal ones on there now but dought they are OEM S15.

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OutToWinPAHC
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K3Fallout
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I have a tiny rust spot on my hood. It is smaller than a penny in size. I've been away at school and haven't been able to deal with it until now. I never dealt with rust before and for the most part on these forums, people show how they deal with rust in larger sizes. How do I proceed? I have the necessary touch up paint to fix it, I just don't really know what to do prior. I read people use sandpaper, but that doesn't seem very effective for my size spot. I just want to keep it from spreading. Thanks.

bassfaceesp
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Location: humboldt ca

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hello everyone..my question is pretty basic. supercharged ka tubro ka black top srdet or rb26det in a 1989 hatch?
ive been bouncin around with all these ideas for a few months now and cant really make up my mind..
i know any of these options will be costly in both time and money but thats not really the issue im stuck at.
i want fast powerful but reliable as a daily driver any help would be apriated
thank you
ben

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Go with whatever your local dyno shop has more experience with. I would suggest staying away from RBs. I know a lot of people that wish they didn't go with them, and I get more weird questions that relate to the RB than any other motor.

bassfaceesp
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thank you im thinkin either super or turbo ka cause i hear alot of complaints on sr

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OutToWinPAHC
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I say KA. You can buy one cheap, build it forged, and boost it. Not as cheap as just buying a SR/CA swap, but at least its built, and you know the history.

Depends on budget.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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One major advantage to the SR is that you can get an all new wiring harness with it. My KA harness is kinda questionable.

BigDAT
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I am considering buying this 240:

Image
(I know the picture is bad, its from Craigslist)

Now the guy says that it is an automatic but it comes with a 5 speed transmission, clutch master cylinder and full clutch pedal assembly. Is that all that I will need for the swap? P.S. Me and my father would be doing the swap ourselves, this is something I am gonna need to know. Also, is there anything else that I need to know when swapping out the transmissions? (for example will it mess with he ECU?) I know that on some cars you wont be able to start the engine after the swap because the ECU thinks the car isnt in park..

Thanks,
Dante

P.s. it is gonna take a long time to look through all of these pictues in the picture threads..

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OutToWinPAHC
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Wiring is simple, you can ue the auto ECU (no speed govenor)
You need the Pedal, trans, new flywheel bolts I said NEW, Flywheel, clutch kit, clutchmaster cylinder, hardline or stainless steel clutch line, slave cylinder, transmission shim, a few bolts, transmission crossmember with mount, and a 5 speed driveshaft. You can do it in a day.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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^Don't forget about the pilot bushing. Also, a brake pedal from a manual equipped 240. :bigthumb:

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OutToWinPAHC
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yeah that too

BigDAT
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:^Don't forget about the pilot bushing. Also, a brake pedal from a manual equipped 240. :bigthumb:
how about petal meets grinder? haha thanks for the info guys. I am not sure about this car atm though a guy offered to sell me an integra, now I am not a honda person but this is a realllly nice car, for a really good deal. My plan consists of buying, cleaning, then selling the integra to make funds for a 240. I hope to be returning soon.

thouster
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I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx and the rear brake caliper piston will not go back in. I checked the piston and it needs to be replace. My question is where can I get a replacement piston?

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speedeast
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It would be more practical to replace the caliper. And you're in luck if you would like to replace your fronts. www.rockauto.com is having a wholesale closeout on beck/arnley front calipers at only $9 each... the rear calipers will run you in the $80 range with core, which you can get back.

Seems like it might be a typo, but I imagine they have to honor it.

Regardless, rockauto is the best place.

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OutToWinPAHC
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I'd also do new calipers

K3Fallout
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Ok. I don't know what just happened but I can't get into my car now without pissing off the entire block. I have a Python 990 2 way LCD remote alarm and for whatever reason every time I try to unlock or lock the car, it keeps vibrating back at me saying that it can't receive a signal no matter how close I am to the car. Where is the valet switch and are there any ideas of what is going on? I know absolutely nothing about alarms.

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speedeast
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That typically happens when a battery dies and resets the remote. Either way, it sounds like you need to have the remote programmed back to the system in the car again. That should fix your problem. Let us know.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Can't you just not arm your alarm?
Alarms piss me off. I've never, ever seen anyone give a 2nd look to a car alarm, so they really serve no purpose other than to wake people up and piss them off.

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Michaelmoore
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Quick question about LEDS for the dash. Just changed out 3 of the bulbs for the cluster. Now my speedo has an intermittent issue where it read only 10mph then jumps to where it needs to be, then it starts going up and down on its own. It eventually evens out and stops going crazy. Could this be caused my the difference in voltage needed for the LEDs?
Last edited by Michaelmoore on Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

bodybuilding88
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hi i am brand new to nissans but been around cars for quite awhile. I am thinkin about buying a 240 cheap and stripping it out completely and building it for a roadracing car. I was wondering if there is any differences in the s13/s14's that would make one better then the other for a track car. and for engine im leaning towards a rb25 swap. thanks.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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bodybuilding88 wrote:hi i am brand new to nissans but been around cars for quite awhile. I am thinkin about buying a 240 cheap and stripping it out completely and building it for a roadracing car. I was wondering if there is any differences in the s13/s14's that would make one better then the other for a track car. and for engine im leaning towards a rb25 swap. thanks.
Besides S13s generally being cheaper, they are also a little bit lighter. That's about it.

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speedeast
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Lighter is good.

bodybuilding88
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thanks for the input. any reason the rb25 would be a bad engine choice? im leanin towards it for more torque and since i wont have to do a block rebuild right away since my goal is around 420whp.

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speedeast
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why not rb26dett? 420whp is still quite a stretch for an rb25. i really like the rb25, i do, but your goals are reachable with a ka24de. i'm just rambling.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I don't particularly like any of the RB series. I hear too many horror stories, and see too many of them broken down and/or running like crap at meets I go to.

I'm partial to KAs and SRs. Since you want torque, go KA.

bodybuilding88
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I don't particularly like any of the RB series. I hear too many horror stories, and see too many of them broken down and/or running like crap at meets I go to.

I'm partial to KAs and SRs. Since you want torque, go KA.
Ill look into the KAs. I was just tryin to save myself some money from having to do a block build for the first summer since ill have plenty in suspension and other parts.

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speedeast
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Getting a KA and building it will probably run you the same as an RB that's not built. I understand the RB comes turbocharged and there would be a lot of system components that you would have to acquire for the KA to be turbo as well... but to get to your goal, you would NOT be spending more money on the KA AND you'll have a built bottom end - rest easy.


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