The bolt on turbo discussion

Post by **USsil80** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

yea the 30 would be nice what kida price are you getting for it

Post by **ez 240** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

about $1200 for the gt30r 1.06ar b bearingt3 flange4"barb in 2"out

Website · Post by **s13sr20chris** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

the gt30r should have some lag to it. does it have a t25 flange? i didnt think they made a gt30 with a t25 flange. i know you can get the gt3037 with a t25 flange.

Post by **ez 240** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

the gt 30 comes with a t3 flange so you need to get a manifold but with 740cc injectors and the right maf and ecu tunning your set for about 500+rwhp

Post by **ez 240** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Iwas also told that oncei it spools up move b**** get out the way!

Post by **TurboB15Sentra** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

GT30 will be considerably more laggy... More like a big T3/T04E. But it will make big power.. I sell the GT2540's for 1095.00 plus shipping. The GT28RS will make about 300-320whp max. The compressor runs out of steam after that.Travis

Post by **robbbby** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

TurboB15Sentra wrote:
And it looks so nice under there too.. Travis

Did you do your own welding tor that flange onto the cast manifold? Everyone I have spoken to said it is very hard and unreliable to weld steel onto cast.

If you welded that what type of welding did you do?

Sorry for going OT guys.

Post by **VitaminT** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Yeah what he said. I am kindof interested in the steel tube onto a cast piece.

Post by **TurboB15Sentra** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

The only reliable way to weld mild or stainless steel to cast iron.. is to use a TIG welder. TIG is the only method that will last. Or, if you stick weld it.. using high nickel content rods. But TIG looks the best.. and will last.Travis

Post by **VitaminT** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Did you grind the spot where you were going to weld smooth?

Post by **TurboB15Sentra** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

I ground down to fresh metal.. to get past the surface rust. You realy need to know how to weld to do this right. I suggest getting it done at a good fab shop that has a good tig welder. If you need it, I can get it done here.Travis

Post by **RobDET** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Could you use a big tap to thread the hole in the manifold and then screw in the wastegate tube into that? You could use some teflon tape or hight temp silicone to seal it.

Post by **DriftS14** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

I have yet to see a high temp silicon withstand manifold temps. Mush less teflon tape. Maybe a gasket of some sort.

Website · Post by **s13sr20chris** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

i see high temp rtv withstand manifold temps all the time. we have an a few monkeys here at my shop that screw stuff up all the time. if they are drilling out exhaust studs, they usually drill into the head. solution? rtv everywhere. it works, but its ghetto.

rob, drilling into cast iron sucks. you would need a nice drill press. i have done it, but it just sucked.

Website · Post by **s13sr20chris** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

tapping the hole is even worse.

Post by **robbbby** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

If it is really this much trouble am I better off paying the $300 and buying something like the stock replacement stainless manifold that enjuku sells?I just didn't want to go with stainless because of cracking.

Post by **ez 240** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

ive heard the same problems with cracking but if remove the first hanger on your exhaust and get aset of nismo engine mounts youfind its less likely to crack the exauhst hanger will let the turbo move more and the engine mounts will restrict the engine from moving so it will take alot of preessure for it to crack.

Post by **Big Perm** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

I talked to one guy at NOPI nationals and he claims that with his FP BIG28, cams, 550's, Z32, headgasket and the like that he was pushing a tad over 335rwhp. EVerything bolts right up just like your t25. I think that is the route I am going to take.

Post by **Supafly** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Big Perm wrote:I talked to one guy at NOPI nationals and he claims that with his FP BIG28, cams, 550's, Z32, headgasket and the like that he was pushing a tad over 335rwhp. EVerything bolts right up just like your t25. I think that is the route I am going to take.

that was most likely aubrey, but i've yet to see anyone else making numbers like that with the FB big28;)

Post by **Big Perm** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

can;t remember the guys name, talked with a lot of people that day. THos PEXXXX turnos are kinda peaking my interest though. I have not heard much about them.

Post by **DriftS14** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

I'll vouch for them^. My 1820 is amazing.

Post by **Big Perm** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

How was the install of the 1820, was it a direct bolt on or did you have to modify any lines / flange to get it to bolt up.

What is the response like, is it laggy?

THanks man

Post by **Big Perm** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

sorry, forgot to look, I noticed that your sig says you have another manifold, is that necessary?

Post by **DriftS14** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Just as much lag as the T25. The kit bolts right up. The only thing you have to do, and the instructions tell you how, is elongate the holes on the oil return flange. That is on the return pipe itself, not the turbo. That was it. The manifold I got for looks.

Post by **Big Perm** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

what other mods did you do to your engine, headgasket, valve springs, etc.?

Post by **DriftS14** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

No other mods yet. I'm saving up for injectors and dyno time.

Post by **Dugi** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Hey guys what's up!! I personally like the GTRS, fast response and good power, but the GT25R is the better bang for ther bug. Everytime I search the net for a turbo for my SR I see one that I like. Can't make up my mind which one to take, I have a budget to stick to so that's the problem, otherwise I would go for the GTRS. I wanted to know at what RPM range do the PE1820 and GT25R get to full boost?? and what's the price range for the PE1820?? Because where I live i've got some business to take care of with some V8's, rotary's and honda's. I'm currently the only one with a SR20DET on the Island. And i'm looking for some 12 sec 1/4 mile runs and maybe 11 high on slicks.

Laterz guys

Post by **VitaminT** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

I cannot speak from person, but I saw a post the other day where a guy with the GT25R (.86AR) was spooling to fullboost (18psi) @4200. He did not have the SS turbo outlet though which I believe would help some. He had a tube ssAutochrome manifold and HKS step 1 264 cams.

See here for details. http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....gt25r

I also think that a lightweight flywheel would help spool some.

Post by **180crafter** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

Where would you guys get these different turbos? I have heard of some people getting great deals on these turbos, and I'm just trying to get some good prices. I work in conjunction with this shop in my area and try to find out what they can do on the gt28rs.

Post by **VitaminT** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 4:53 pm

I know Cheapturbos.com and phase2motortrend.com sells the GT25R (GT2540R) and the S15 GT28, but I have not see the GT28rs at any of the shops I go to.

The bolt on turbo discussion

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