Tell me this is an Alternator

[PHeller]

- Attempted to fix broken intake coupler, replaced, put everything back together

- Later that evening, the car won't start like the battery is low

- next day, same deal, jump it, drive around the block, try starting it again, dies after the 3rd start up

- jump it again, go to shop, get battery and alternator tested. Alternator putting out 13.8 volts. Battery tests bad. No Battery light in dash. Replace battery.

- drive fine for 2 days

- today, goes dead right after start up, jump it again, drive it to school, it sits all day, starts up fine BUT is dying on the way home, keep RPMs up to keep from dying.

- about ready to turn into town when the just falls flat on its face dead in the water, barely enough juice to run the flashers.

- jump again, drive home, as soon as I park the car begins to die

Now do these series of events sound like:

A) An Alternator (the easy fix)B) Battery light electrical gremlinC) Battery drainD) Monsters

I can't see it being a drain because the battery holds a charge over an 8 hour period, but goes dead when driving.

I'd say its an Alternator, but that's the most expensive option.

A short/battery drain somewhere, or any other electrical gremlin is about as scary as any monster.

[IanS]

Im going to go with monsters.

Actually, its most likely a loose battery terminal, loose alternator connection, or a corroded ALT fuse.

[s14derrick]

.

Im going to go with monsters.

Actually, its most likely a loose battery terminal, loose alternator connection, or a corroded ALT fuse.

check all your cables to battery and alternator. i had the same type of problem and it was just a loose cable into the alternator .

[PHeller]

Battery terminals are snug. Can't move them if I tried.

ALT Fuse looks pretty good. Removed it, stuck it back in, did it again, problem persists.

Alternator could be original on the car, I have no idea. This problem is so recent, why would a wire suddenly become loose and cause all these issues?

[Terrorinc17]

I had the same issue on my truck. Tested alternator 5 times and everytime it was good. Finally the 6th time I tested it it showed bad. It put out 13 volts most of the time then during long trips it dropped to around 10.

Try an alternator

[sldewyz]

are any belts squeeking? could be the belt is slipping around alternator and not letting it put out any more back to the battery. thats ur cheapest option.

[PHeller]

Tested the Alt with the multimeter.

Before starting, I tested the battery while the car wasn't running. I didn't charge the battery, it was putting out 12.4 volts not running.

When starting the car, cranking volts dropped to 11 but bounced back up to around 12.5 or so (no accessories).

With the car running, HVAC Blower on, volts drop to 11.9

Headlights on, voltages drop like a dead horse, falling to 11, 10, 9 within minutes.

Revving it pops the voltage up to around 13 or so.

Tested the same way on my buddies 07 Corolla. His voltage never left 14.5 volts, even under full stress.

I'd say my alternator is dead.
Modified by PHeller at 11:46 PM 1/29/2009

[PHeller]

My new plan of action is to call the local salvage yards hunting for a Mercuary Villager, Nissan Quest, or 240SX alternator.

I figure for $20-40 bucks, even if it only last for a year or so, that's better than $150 right now.

I'm tired of spending money on what I thought was going to be cheap transportation and good fun.

[2projects2many]

Tested the Alt with the multimeter.

Because I didn't charge the battery, it was putting out 12.4 volts not running.

Tested alternator while not running- huh learn something everyday

[PHeller]

I meant that as in

1)put the probes of the multimeter on the car while it was not running (12.4 volts)

2) Started car with friend holding multimeter (slight drop in volts)

3) new reading with all accessories off (13 volts)

4) Accessories on, voltage drops

Stay with me here.

[Vegascorbin]

The problem is your dash battery llight.

The altinator WILL NOT charge with out either that light or a dash charge meter connected.

The light should be on while the engine is not running and off when the engine runs.

If you follow the FSM secmatics closly you can see how the light is wired in. I had the same problem getting the altinator to work in our race car. It would not charge until I put a light in the circuit.

DO NOT just bypass the lamp with a jumper wire. It wil smoke the altinator.

[PHeller]

Vegascorbin,

Thanks for the enthusiastic solution, but my battery light does function (it's on when I turn the key to accessory.

Also, if the alternator wasn't charging at all, I wouldn't get an increase in voltage when I revved the engine.

[91drftr]

did u check the main fuse for the alternato?

[NizzleS13]

check the plug and ground on your alternator...check for corrosion and melted wires. Check your relay and alternator fuseable link but if it was the fuseable link nothing inside your car would work the most common signs of alternator failure is the dash lights flashing on and off/dimming, and radio shutting off as the battery loses power

[PHeller]

Did all of the above.

Used 125AMP Mercuary Villager alternator was installed today.

Charging is excellent. A little bit of dimming at low idle, but that's also because my car is idling at 500rpm.

[Philipio]

Did you use the writeup from the forum? Any problems you ran into? Thinking about doing that also for a while.

[driftneil]

I had a prob like this a year ago. My solution was tearing apart my whole car, and tracing wires. After a week of feeling wires, traced it back to the main red plug coming off the batt. Pull the plug out, see if it's melted. Good luck, man. I hate jumping my car!!

[PHeller]

Did you use the writeup from the forum? Any problems you ran into? Thinking about doing that also for a while.

I sorta used it. More or less I said "ok, this is what people said is the worse case scenario."

Once I had the older alternator out, and compared it to the new one, I said to myself, "ok, drill here and here, possibly grind here, maybe move the bracket around, and I will likely need a bigger belt."

The only surprises were how close the tensioner/tug-nut bolt got to the belt, and how close the tensioner itself was to the belt, and the weird angle that the bracket put the Villager alternator at when I didn't space the bracket.

I spaced the bracket away from the block with some washers, being careful not to go to crazy on the bracket bolts (didn't want to risk stripping the threads in the block). I spaced the tug nut on the tensioner with a few bigger nuts and a washer.

My idle is low for other reasons, and at 500rpm the alternator is still putting out a health 14.5 volts.

I wouldn't have done it if:

A) I didn't have the used alternator tested before hand B) I could find a cheap Villager/Quest alternator to drill/grind C) I didn't have an awesome friend to lend me a garage, grinder, drill, and extra pair of hands.
Modified by PHeller at 8:31 PM 2/1/2009