Talk to me about drum brakes...

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joe603
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I've gotta replace the pads in my wife's lancer, but I've never done drum brakes. Anyone have any tips/advice?? The front is a rotor so that will be straight-forward...I've done rotors before.


Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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Joe... I wish i had an answer for you. I know they have like a spring loaded system I think.....

I have an 89 Jeep that has the drum on the back and i am thinking about doing an upgrade to disk for the rear lol!

I don't know anything about them. DJ

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grantman240z
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joe603 wrote:I've gotta replace the pads in my wife's lancer, but I've never done drum brakes. Anyone have any tips/advice?? The front is a rotor so that will be straight-forward...I've done rotors before.
I did the drums on my 240z's several times...they were a serious pain even with the "special" spring removal/installation tools. Take a picture of the assembled unit before you start removing springs so you can be sure they go back into the right spots. Aside from that...lots of swearing is involved.

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D1SR240
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Drums brakes are a pain in the butt. Get one of those drum brake spring tools (not sure what the official name is but they'll have it at your local car parts store) it makes it a lot easier than using pliers.

On a side note: Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT, do you have anymore pictures of your car, perhaps that you could e-mail to me. I'm in the market for something just like yours.

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Sentientbydesign
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Drum brakes and lancers...huh...Joe?

Just out of curiousity, how could you allow your wife to drive a lancer? Isn't that a form of cruel and unusual punishment?

I've got to check out my wife's drums too. I'm very tempted to get the Celica GT-S rear disc setup and swap it on her car to make changing pads/shoes easier.

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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sure i can send you some pics. I have pics with the 19's and with the stock 18's...

whats your email

DJ

joe603
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It was all we could afford just 6 years ago I should have sprung for the "OZ rally" edition, but she still loves her car. I can't complain, its been a great little econ-o-box.

I've been doing some research and I guess drums don't wear out as fast as rotors, so they might not need to be changed. I think I'll just do the front and see how that goes...it only has 64k miles.

Thanks guys!

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DJButton
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joe603 wrote: I've been doing some research and I guess drums don't wear out as fast as rotors, so they might not need to be changed. I think I'll just do the front and see how that goes...it only has 64k miles.

Thanks guys!
Joe, fronts are usually at least 70% of braking too, so definitely do them, but agreed on waiting for the rears. I would pull off the housing for the drum at least though and see if you can tell how much meat is left on them.

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Beezer
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joe603 wrote:I've gotta replace the pads in my wife's lancer, but I've never done drum brakes. Anyone have any tips/advice?? The front is a rotor so that will be straight-forward...I've done rotors before.
I apprenticed as a mechanic for two years and I could never fully get the hang of the drum brake assembly.

Here's what I remember. Get a spring kit as someone suggested and take pictures of the assembly before you start removing anything. Heck, grab a marker and mark each spring, cylinder, connector, shoe in reverse order as you remove them if you want. Depending on how frequently those drums have been used/removed/serviced, you might find it quite difficult to remove the drum. If this happens, you need to get under the car and behind the rear tires with a medium to large slot screwdriver. There's a little slit on the backing plate that the screwdriver can be inserted into where you can then adjust the e-brake cylinder, thereby reducing the pressure of the shoes on the drum. Spraying the studs with wd40 will also help if the drums are stuck.

Once inside, it is a fairly straightforward and logical process but there are a lot of different parts which can get confusing. Do one side at a time so you can keep referring to the finished product. I'm sure there must be online tutorials in can you get stuck.

You'll also need to use the slot screwdriver once you reassemble everything to adjust the tension of the shoes. With the wheels on, adjust the cylinder so that the wheel spins, but no too freely.

Warning...this info is almost 12 years old and a lot could have changed within a drum brake assembly since then. My bad if none of this is relevant.

Good luck and get some beer to help you through it.

Jacko3
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Joe:

+1 for grantman240z and Beezer. Drum brakes are a pain in the behind. I have done them once, and that was it. They last a pretty long time though. I usually change mine on my little car, every 4 - 5 years, and even then, they still have a good chunk of meat in the padding. My mechnic does the changing these days.

A few things you will need to worry about drum barakes.

1. The springs--inspect it for rust. If it is too rusty, get another one. It is as cheap as heck.

2. You may see two little button clips that help to keep the springs in place--this depends on the car and model. Pay attention to those little button clips. Don't loose them or else you won't have brakes.

3. use this opportunity to inspect the wheel bearings. Some cars have sealed bearings that don't need repalcement, and some cars have replaceable bearings.

4. Before you start, either take a good mental map of the parts or take a picture of them so that you don't confuse re-installation.

5. Make sure the brake adjustment----this is a spindle with some threads on it, which turns to tighten or adjust how far the brake shoes, touch the drum only very slightly, and enough for the wheel to rotate--you will hear an almost scuffing noise as the wheels rotate.

6. If any removal parts are tight, use WD-40.

7. When the shoes have been replaced, make sure you adjust the brakes with that spindle stuff so that the tires or wheels are not able to spin too freely during adjustment. Tire should be able to roll or spin--without parking brakes---but not too freely.

8. before putting the shoes on, use a solvent like an alcohol spray solvent to clean the inside of the drum. Sometimes, you may need to turn that drum. It does wear out like the rotors

This is all I can remember from the last time i did it. It took a lot more time to take it off and put it back on, than it actually did to put the shoes back in place. Different cars will have different mechanisms. This is just my 2 cents. i hope it helps. Start on time in the morning, just in case you run into some problems. Eat a lot of power bars because you will need them to remove the springs and put them back on.


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Sentientbydesign
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Jacko,

I'm going to start following you and figure out what your "Little Nissan" is.

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rn79870
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Sentientbydesign wrote:Jacko,

I'm going to start following you and figure out what your "Little Nissan" is.

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SVTCOBRA
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grantman240z wrote:
I did the drums on my 240z's several times...they were a serious pain even with the "special" spring removal/installation tools. Take a picture of the assembled unit before you start removing springs so you can be sure they go back into the right spots. Aside from that...lots of swearing is involved.


Nice black G you have there...

RN, you're a bad boy!!

TeflonG35
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Sentientbydesign wrote:
Just out of curiousity, how could you allow your wife to drive a lancer? Isn't that a form of cruel and unusual punishment?
My girl drives a little red vw jetta with cherries everywhere. OMG it's torture. Plus she doesnt have tints so i feel like a *** just riding with her..... Personaly im not even sure if jettas are considered cars...

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Sentientbydesign
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TeflonG35 wrote:
My girl drives a little red vw jetta with cherries everywhere. OMG it's torture. Plus she doesnt have tints so i feel like a *** just riding with her..... Personaly im not even sure if jettas are considered cars...
Well, my friends and I have a saying about Jettas. Only hot girls and gay guys drive them.

Hope your girl is the prior and not the latter

TeflonG35
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Jettas are useless. The trannys always go. And the disintigrate at about 80k miles. We think jetta is german for neon....

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gwoods
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All the advise is good,

#1 thing only take apart one side at a time.

#2 Having a second person there is always helpful (wife works great so she can tell you what your doing wrong ), take pictures either way

#3 brake spring tool will save you about 45 min

AZ saw me 2 Sunday's ago doing brakes on a 1979 CJ-7 next door. Its really not that bad just try to keep the parts together ect

Oh and I am obligated to post one Hemi picture since this is a nong G35 non Infiniti thread


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SVTCOBRA
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^ Good Call! So, I should post some pics of the cobra...or my doggies?

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gwoods
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non G threads are open to anything non G related.

The ram comes with black door handles and black mirrors. I painted mine myself with a rattle can. Looks pretty sweet if you ask me!

Let see your doggies and Mustang!!

Jacko3
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Sentient:

My little Nissan is a beauty. Too emotionally attached to her. Though I like the G muchbetter now. I hope she does not hear me say this, else, she might start acting up!

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SVTCOBRA
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gwoods wrote:

non G threads are open to anything non G related.

The ram comes with black door handles and black mirrors. I painted mine myself with a rattle can. Looks pretty sweet if you ask me!

Let see your doggies and Mustang!!
NICE JOB! Does/did look better white!!

BTW, my daughter turned 18 yesterday My wife & daughter spent the day in NYC visiting the met and canal street.I miss the days when I rocked her to sleep in the lazyboy....

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SVTCOBRA
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My spoiled dogs!!






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Beancooker
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You will need a brake tool, a fat spliff, a few beers, a carton of cigs, and a therapist. Then you can get started on the drums. It might be time to sell the car...

groundrocket
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I agree with the take pictures idea completely - also remember that the brake shoes on most drum setups have more pad on one side than the other so make sure that is correct - if you put them on backwards they wear faster and arent as effective - one more thing I have seen people put both of the "long" shoes on one side and the "short" shoes on the other - makes for some pulling when you hit the breaks.

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BigWill
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SVTCOBRA wrote:^ Good Call! So, I should post some pics of the cobra...or my doggies?
I'm not sure I get the difference Rich... Fords, Aussies... they're both DOGS!! lol

Sorry man, I just had to.

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BigWill
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Joe... if you get NOTHING else right, make sure you grease the little contact spots where the shoes will rub on the inside edges. Otherwise you will begin having major squeaking in a very short time.

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SVTCOBRA
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Beancooker wrote:You will need a brake tool, a fat spliff, a few beers, a carton of cigs, and a therapist. Then you can get started on the drums. It might be time to sell the car...


Really, not THAT bad, but def. need the brake tool, I would take a pic, only do one side at a time (that way you have the other side to look at). You could also write down the order in which you remove parts.

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SVTCOBRA
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BigWill wrote:
I'm not sure I get the difference Rich... Fords, Aussies... they're both DOGS!! lol

Sorry man, I just had to.
I know....I've been fortunate to own some good ones tho. I still believe that furd is the best domestic and has been for years.

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rn79870
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SVTCOBRA wrote:I know....I've been fortunate to own some good ones tho. I still believe that furd is the best domestic and has been for years.
Ah, yes. One has to look no further than Barrett-Jackson, which just happens to be on this weekend, to see the prices the "old" Fords command. Diamonds they are. Whenever BigWill mentions Fords, I think he is asking for more Mustang pictures. What say you BigWill, more pics?

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gwoods
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SVTCOBRA wrote:
NICE JOB! Does/did look better white!!

BTW, my daughter turned 18 yesterday My wife & daughter spent the day in NYC visiting the met and canal street.I miss the days when I rocked her to sleep in the lazyboy....
18 year old daughter yikes well you made it through the hard years

I'm only making boys


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