taking my 07 M45 for an oil change- regular or synthetic?

[szh]

I wouldn't presume to say that 15K was good for all cars. In fact, I'd say that as a matter of course you shouldn't exceed the manufacturer specified interval.

Which in the case of the M is either 5000 or 7500 depending on which model M.

I would also be concerned about going too long since the filter is so small.

I follow Infiniti's recommendation on my M. Once the warranty is up I may start extending the interval but I'll do so by no more than 2K at a time. I'll have an analysis done every time I increase the interval.

Best way to do it!

Z

[szh]

Where do you send your oil for testing and how much does it cost?

Blackstone Labs is one of the two or three I have heard of.

Check out http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ for more info. Their "standard oil analysis" is $22.50 a whack.

Z

[mjlyn]

I would also be concerned about going too long since the filter is so small.

Z

BTW why is the M filter so small......I've never seen such a small filter on a car

[ken in az]

This conversation is funny....you guys crack me up.

You guys are really going back and forth about synthetics and drain intervals? It's just humorus because not one of you has a bypass filter setup nor an oil cooler or at least have stepped up to say they do.

Most people use dino in the break in process because it's cheaper since you change the oil sooner and more often early in the life of an engine before extended intervals should be considered.

Contrary to popular belief synthetics do not keep an engine from breaking in. This belief has stemmed from the guy who put in synthetic engine oil in a lawnmower after a rebuild and started it and ran it wide open under no load. It's the load/cylinder pressure that seats the rings, not the oil. I won't argue that synthetics aren't "slippier" but to say they keep an engine from braking in is hilarious.

My pops old 88 300zx gave a "dino" oil change interval of 7K mi. that was in 1988. Do you really think it matters if you change your oil at 3K or 5K or 7K 15K? It does to a point, but realistically we are all changing our oil well before this point and if we go over these parameter it is either because we are stupid or we know better because we have done our research. If you change your drain interval to 15K mi just because someone on this forum says they did it and so could you, well I've got some land on the moon I'd like to sell you Not mocking it, but realistically you have to know what you are doing to run your oil that long.

And if you really want to stretch your intervals, run amsoil with a dual bypass filter setup and add a thermostatically controlled oil cooler and ditch the stock oil cooler. then we can start talking about 25K mi intervals and more.

[mjlyn]

[QUOTE=ken in az]This conversation is funny....you guys crack me up.

You guys are really going back and forth about synthetics and drain intervals? It's just humorus because not one of you has a bypass filter setup nor an oil cooler or at least have stepped up to say they do.

Ken in AZ

Just killin time online at work. My boss would be pissed. Oh wait.....I'm the boss. Slow economy......not as busy as usual. I just entertain myself reading the posts on this forum since i just bought an M35. I was just curious as to why my BMW's oil change interval is 15000 while some folks act like almost like they'd give up a kidney before they exceeded 3750. (just kidding).

Before my M35 i had a 05 Acura TL and the oil change light would come on at about 7000 miles. Interestingly on the BMW and the Acura you you cant modify the mileage interval in the computer like you can on the M (dont hold me to that, im not 100% sure) but i think i am correct. I remember when i got the 530 i was surprised to see "oil change due in 15000 miles......and it would count down from there.

Contrary to popular belief synthetics do not keep an engine from breaking in. This belief has stemmed from the guy who put in synthetic engine oil in a lawnmower after a rebuild and started it and ran it wide open under no load. It's the load/cylinder pressure that seats the rings, not the oil. I won't argue that synthetics aren't "slippier" but to say they keep an engine from braking in is hilarious.

Makes sense to me.....after all several high performance engines come from the factory with synthetic.

If you change your drain interval to 15K mi just because someone on this forum says they did it and so could you, well I've got some land on the moon I'd like to sell you Not mocking it, but realistically you have to know what you are doing to run your oil that long.

Dont worry....not gonna change to 15k in my M.......747 Driver says he does in his Jag....but he has done the research....

What i did learn from this discussion was the info about the oil testing. I did not know that was so readily available for such a low price. I will do that at my next oil change on all my vehicles just to see where i stand.

Hmm have not gotten the hang of highlighting the quotes yet....worked last time
Modified by mjlyn at 7:56 AM 4/30/2009

[mjlyn]

[
Modified by mjlyn at 9:01 AM 4/30/2009

[747driver]

You guys are really going back and forth about synthetics and drain intervals? It's just humorus because not one of you has a bypass filter setup nor an oil cooler or at least have stepped up to say they do.

As far as I'm aware most oil filters on the market today have bypass features built in. And as for an oil cooler - if a car really needs one for its intended purpose it'll be factory installed. I'm changing my Jags oil at intervals specified in the owners manual, BTW.

Most people use dino in the break in process because it's cheaper since you change the oil sooner and more often early in the life of an engine before extended intervals should be considered.

Strangely, in over 20 years of car ownership I've never seen an owners manual that says this. What's your source of this information?

Contrary to popular belief synthetics do not keep an engine from breaking in. This belief has stemmed from the guy who put in synthetic engine oil in a lawnmower after a rebuild and started it and ran it wide open under no load. It's the load/cylinder pressure that seats the rings, not the oil. I won't argue that synthetics aren't "slippier" but to say they keep an engine from braking in is hilarious.

Ageed.

Not mocking it, but realistically you have to know what you are doing to run your oil that long.

Or just follow manufacturers recommendations, as I do with my Jag.

[ken in az]

Read any sport bike motorcycle engine break in procedure. I've specifically remember it in a Honda manual but I have definitely seen it in other manf publications and not just limited to cars.

[747driver]

Read any sport bike motorcycle engine break in procedure. I've specifically remember it in a Honda manual but I have definitely seen it in other manf publications and not just limited to cars.

I'm wondering if the break-in procedures wrt oil changes are different between 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines? I ask because I really don't know.

Can you recall which cars you have come across with the oil change regimen to which you refer? If so, when were these cars manufactured? I've been buying new cars every few years since 1982 (boy does that make me feel really old!) and not one of the automakers decreed accelerated oil change intervals for new engines.

[ken in az]

I'm wondering if the break-in procedures wrt oil changes are different between 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines? I ask because I really don't know.

Can you recall which cars you have come across with the oil change regimen to which you refer? If so, when were these cars manufactured? I've been buying new cars every few years since 1982 (boy does that make me feel really old!) and not one of the automakers decreed accelerated oil change intervals for new engines.

LOL - 2 strokes change their oil every take of gas

Sorry I can't remember but it is just common sense also. Engines are normally assembled with assembly lube and the first couple hundred miles gets most of the junk/shavings/stuff though the oil filter where they get trapped. Also durring the break in is when it is possible to have the most fuel deposited into the oil as well.

I have always recomended an oil change at 500mi again at 1500mi and again at 3000mi is where you can start your normal change interval and start using synthetic. Again, the only reason I don't recomend synthetic right off the bat is because of price, but you can use it if you want to.

I'm sure if my screen name had the word "tech" in it I wouldn't be doubted as much

[747driver]

LOL - 2 strokes change their oil every take of gas

Sorry I can't remember but it is just common sense also. Engines are normally assembled with assembly lube and the first couple hundred miles gets most of the junk/shavings/stuff though the oil filter where they get trapped. Also durring the break in is when it is possible to have the most fuel deposited into the oil as well.

I have always recomended an oil change at 500mi again at 1500mi and again at 3000mi is where you can start your normal change interval and start using synthetic. Again, the only reason I don't recomend synthetic right off the bat is because of price, but you can use it if you want to.

I'm sure if my screen name had the word "tech" in it I wouldn't be doubted as much

Doh! I was on the 2-stroke thing.

You raise an interesting point with the assembly lube. My wife drives an 09 Accord V6 and the dealer (the very people who would benefit financially from shortened oil change intervals) told her NOT to change the initial oil fill until the onboard maintenance minder indicated it should be changed. The supposed reason is that the factory oil fill contains additives and assembly lube beneficial in the break-in process. Interestingly though, the owner's manual mentions nothing in this regard.

I'm not doubting for one minute that you've across this information - sorry if you think I am. I'm just trying to figure out where it came from and whether or not it should be applied to today's vehicles. And whether you are a tech or not makes no difference to me. I know techs with decades of experience that don't agree with you. I also know techs who are simply incompetent. So you'll have to forgive me for not taking at face value the idea that I shouldn't doubt you just because you're a tech.

From my perspective though, given that I've accumulated hundreds of thousands of miles on several different engines without a loss of compression or oil pressure without following the oil change regimen you subscribe to, and given that I've yet to see said regimen in writing in any owner's manual, I just don't see early oil changes as necessary.

[ken in az]

I agree with you, to each their own. Again, it is "your" engine so break it in as you seem comfortable with. I just throw that info out there as a guideline and I'd argue with anyone that early oil changes would never be detrimental to an engine.

Only way I see it as better safe then sorry. If you want to get really technical about particle size and oil filter efficiency ratings - we can - but I don't think it's necessary. Many people would be surprised how much gunk an oil filter lets through that can potentially damage the engine. That being said, I've seen Izuzu engines seize because the stupid girl driving never changed the oil in it for 110,000mi. I drained the pan and nothing came out!!! lol

I let it cool down, filled it and the radiator up and it ran fine after - go figure? and by fine I mean it ran like garbage, but it still ran and she drove it like that for another year or so before she traded it in.

[szh]

I have always recomended an oil change at 500mi again at 1500mi and again at 3000mi is where you can start your normal change interval and start using synthetic.

Yup! I like a sorta similar early frequency too. My post is in this thread.

Z