Synthetic oil?

[xu_chen]

Hey all,

I put 700 miles on my Versa already. Thinking about going for that first early oil change. I was looking at local oil change ads and noticed started thinking about synthetic.Anyone here use synthetic in their Versa? What are the pros-cons of synthetic vs regular? Is it okay to just switch over now?

[Ever Victorious]

zerothread/162183

There's a link to an article on this very topic under the tech articles section.

I use Mobil1 synthetic in my Versa. Honestly if you start using it with the car being so new, you won't notice any change right away. There are a couple things you WILL notice, though... like the ability to go 5000+ miles between oil changes, and overall reduction of wear and tear on the car, so it will last longer and cost less in repairs over the long run.

[BenDupre]

Read the motor oil bible (google for it) You will never use petroleum oil again.

Ben

[BenzTech Gone Versa]

I was Told by my dealer that the versa uses a synthetic blend.so you can go 5000 miles but they sug. you change around 3000-3500 miles.I am a mercedes benz tech. and we do oil changes every 10,000-13,000 miles.....sick!I do my benz at 3000...eff that,ive done too many lifters and cams.

[MinisterofDOOM]

I am a mercedes benz tech. and we do oil changes every 10,000-13,000 miles.....sick!I do my benz at 3000...eff that,ive done too many lifters and cams.

I could never do that... It would drive me absolutely insane. I could MAYBE go 5000...

[proxim2020]

Same here, Normally I never let my oil go that long. I think a max was once at 15,000 on some Amsoil. I normally go 5000-7500 on syn and cut open my filters occasionally.

[c5neb]

I was Told by my dealer that the versa uses a synthetic blend.so you can go 5000 miles but they sug. you change around 3000-3500 miles.I am a mercedes benz tech. and we do oil changes every 10,000-13,000 miles.....sick!I do my benz at 3000...eff that,ive done too many lifters and cams.

Frequent oil changing is one of the cheapest insurance policies in all of the auto kingdom. I am still considering synthetic as a first choice. I get a freebie regular oil change at the dealership but they want an addition $ 30 for the difference with synthetic. That doesn't compute! I think I will go synthetic on my next DIY change.

[proxim2020]

I get a freebie regular oil change at the dealership but they want an addition $ 30 for the difference with synthetic. That doesn't compute! I think I will go synthetic on my next DIY change.

That's funny. You could always just buy the oil (at retail cost I might add) for way less. But then again, everything at the dealership is overpriced

[c5neb]

I got my freebie oil change this morning and I bought two Nissan oil filters for the next two synthetic oil changes. Just keeping it real!

[BenDupre]

Guess it's too late for this advice, but you could always bring your own SYN oill to the dealer and let him change it. My changes cost $10 less because I bring my own oil in.

Ben

[c5neb]

Guess it's too late for this advice, but you could always bring your own SYN oill to the dealer and let him change it. My changes cost $10 less because I bring my own oil in.

Ben

!

That is great advice, Ben!! For those who don't or can't change their own oil and want synthetic, buy your own and pay for the labor. Check with local shops first to find out their procedures.

[BenzTech Gone Versa]

Once you go synth. there is no turning back.I went to mobile 1 school for my job as training.the aditives don't go well with regular oil!Later on you cant really switch back.

[Ever Victorious]

On the other hand, once you've gone synthetic, you wouldn't WANT to go back either.

[proxim2020]

Once you go synth. there is no turning back.I went to mobile 1 school for my job as training.the aditives don't go well with regular oil!Later on you cant really switch back.

I've always heard this from tons of people. Even some who say you shouldn't go from one manufacturer to the other because each one uses different additives that won't do well in the engine when mixed. Lots of people say you shouldn't do this, but no one ever gives evidence besides for numbers.

Most bottles clearly state 100% compatible with conventional oil and if you mix the 2 in a clear glass they will not separate. When you buy a synthetic blend, you're actually buying 20% synthetic and 80% petro mixed. You shouldn't have any problems with switching because both types of oils meet API specs at the same point. I know a mechanic who's been switching between synthetic and petro in his cars for almost the same amount of years I've been alive...lol. He's never had any engine problems with any of his cars.

As far a what you should do:

- You should stick with one brand and type of oil for the life of the vehicle. You're not really taking advantage of any proprietary additives if you're constantly switching. If you're in a money pinch you "can" switch back and forth, but you shouldn't because reasons stated prior.

- Ever heard the expression "A pipe is only as big as it's smallest point". When you mix petro and synthetic, you're not getting all of the advantages. A 20/80 petro/syn blend will still need to be change at or around 3k. With a 75/25 blend, you may be able to get more miles, but what's the point. Purchase completely petro or synthetic.

[xu_chen]

Thanks everyone for the tips... I'm at 900 now and plan on getting an oil change as soon as the break-in completes (1200). I'm now leaning towards synthetic.Called a couple places to get quotes. Apparently my Nissan dealer does it for pretty cheap ($50)... this compared to $75 that Mobil charges me (for Mobil 1)... suspicious...Wish I have a garage so I could just do this myself... then I'd get Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

[MIdnkight-lude]

does anyone here has a preferance on oil? i ususally use mobil 1.

[BenDupre]

I repeat: read The Motor Oil Bible.

It will educate you that not even all Synthetics are created equal. The tables in the back give the test specs on just about any brand of oil, and the author even rates them against each other using a formula. He also teaches you what the test data means.

Mobile One doesn't rate very high on his formula. AMSOIL is the best money can buy. For what I could find at the local auto parts store, I bought Valvoline Syn Power.

There's a lot to be said about additives and additive compatability. And an API rating doesn't mean sh*t. And there's absolutely nothing useful printed on the bottle, other than the weight. read the test data in the bible, then make an educated decision, forget the marketing, forget the brand loyalty, go with the data.

AND stay away from FRAM filters. Buy the factory filter or a better one if you can find it.

Ben

[c5neb]

That is a ton of great info, Ben!! I have a lot of reading to do. Thanks!!

[BenDupre]

It's a page-turner i'nt it?



Ben

[BillStrong]

we use Mobil 1 in our fleet of cars and trucks. In the Dodge we go 15,000 miles on the oil with 5000 mile filter changes and top ups. The BMW we went 10,000 miles with 2 filter changes.The MR2s I go 10,000 miles and sometimes change the filter. Zero wear on those engines on tear down. The oil we are currently using is Chevron Delo 400.I use Fram filters exclusively. But have alternated back and fourth between Fram and Wix. I dont use "factory" "OEM" Filters as they usually go with the lowest bidders.

We have recently purchased a few cases of Amsoil. Going to try that in the Versa and the V8 MR2 Northstar. I'll try for a season without oil changes and then do a tear down next christmas and measure the cams for wear.

I used to work at Witco (formally the owner of Kendall and Amalie motor Oils) and learned a lot from our mad scientist about how oil works and what is good and what is bad. Lots of stuff on the internet may sound good, or right when in fact it is total hog wash. Internet rumours are really good when it come to motor oils.

But hey, my father put 300,000+ miles with 1 rebuild on a 1968 Dodge Charger 318 V8 using nothing but Quaker State oil (anther company that was a local to me when I lived in Bradford Pa). But then PA Crude was considered the absolute finest motoroil you could buy back then. Most base stocks today are from the gulf of Mexico or Texas. Not exactly the finest, but okay once they add the chemicals (this is what Witco did as it was cheaper to pull the stocks out of the ground in Texas then it was in fridged Pennsylvania).

Now on my Versa I will be using Castrol GTX 5w30 for the first 5000 or so miles after my first oil change at 500 miles. Once the rings are seated good then we move on over to the fully synthetic oil from Amsoil. I'll go one year between changes,. that should be close to 25,000 miles.

your mileage may vary.

[Link3]

Now on my Versa I will be using Castrol GTX 5w30 for the first 5000 or so miles after my first oil change at 500 miles. Once the rings are seated good then we move on over to the fully synthetic oil from Amsoil.

Well, I'm approaching my first regularly scheduled oil change mileage (3,750 miles) and the upper-midwestern winter is approaching almost as fast. I see that you are waiting until 5k miles before switching to synthetic oil. The Motor Oil Bible suggests waiting until the first regular oil change between 3k to 5k miles should suffice. Does anyone know of a reason why I shouldn't make the switch at my first oil change to start using a synthetic oil?
Modified by Link3 at 6:07 AM 11/3/2006

[BillStrong]

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Well, I'm approaching my first regularly scheduled oil change mileage (3,750 miles) and the upper-midwestern winter is approaching almost as fast. I see that you are waiting until 5k miles before switching to synthetic oil. The Motor Oil Bible suggests waiting until the first regular oil change between 3k to 5k miles should suffice. Does anyone know of a reason why I shouldn't make the switch at my first oil change to start using a synthetic oil?

Modified by Link3 at 6:07 AM 11/3/2006

dont do it because these new oils are really slick. Some rings have difficulty seating with these oils. I had a brand new 22r in a 1986 Toyota P/U that took over 6000 miles for the rings to seat. I used Mobil 1 in that truck the day I brought it home.

But then again my new 1987 Shelby Charger GLHS came stock with Mobil 1 in the engine and the trans. so sometimes it may not be an issue.

[proxim2020]

I thought that it was said before, in another topic, that Nissan runs these engines through a 500 mile break in on dino oil so there's no need for a break in period. And that you can start using syn immediately. Am I wrong?

As a side note,when I purchased my truck 4 years ago I took it home at night with 2 miles on it. The next morning I did a syn oil change and I've done syn ever since. I'm at 100k with about 75% city driving and 25% highway. I haven't had any engine problems, leaks, or needed to have the engine serviced.

[Link3]

Well, whether I end up deciding to wait until the 2nd oil change or not - does anyone have an idea whether it would be worthwhile to spend the extra on the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 oil (supposedly good up to 15k miles) as oppose to the regular synth Mobil 1 5w30? The Extended Performance oil is about a $1.25 more per quart.

[proxim2020]

It depends on how much you trust the oil. I've purchased the 15,000 mile oil from mobile one once before and only let it get up to 7500 before I changed it. I wanted to know if it had broken down or if it looked like it was in good shape. It was hard to tell if the oil had broken down or not just from looks and smells. It had a dark brown color, but not jet black like oil that's broken down. You can purchase some 7500 mile filters from Fram and change it twice. A lot of people say stay away from Fram, but that's all I've used my whole life. Like Bill, it's the only thing I use. I don't see anything wrong with them and they've never given me any problems.

I once had a filter from STP on my car, I thought I would try something different. The ring came off the old STP filter and stayed on the engine (I didn't notice this until it was too late). I put a new one on and started the engine. Guess where all of the oil went? Through the middle of both seals and out on the ground. I had to do a new oil change and decided to never leave Fram again .

[BillStrong]

I wanted to know if it had broken down or if it looked like it was in good shape. It was hard to tell if the oil had broken down or not just from looks and smells. It had a dark brown color, but not jet black like oil that's broken down.

You can not use color as a reference as to when oil "has broken down". Some oils turn dark just by heating them up.The best way to tell is to ask the oil company that you are using to send you a test sample kit. You then pour a bit of oil and send it back to the company. They will test the oil and send you a report back on the condition of your engine and the oil. Some will do it for free but most have a small fee for this service.Old oil itself is not the killer of engines. It is water and fuel. These get into the oil either from condensation, leakage or bypassing rings or gaskets. Some aluminum engines actually can leak oil and water through the aluminum (Northstar). Water has no lubricating value. It is like sand paper inside an engine. Water vapour inside the block in humid areas are the worst. Thsi occurs natuarlly and there is no way to stop it. Hence the reason for the frequent filter changes. Those that do little mileage on their car do the most damage. You want the engine to get up to operating temps to "boil" off the water so it gets recirculated through the PCV system.

[BenDupre]

This guy knows what he's talking about.

Dark color can also be caused by soot (carbon), but your filter isn't going to remove that. Full-flow filters can't filter fine enough without blocking the flow of oil. Some diesels use a bypass filter to really clean the oil, but this is overkill on gas engines. That is unless you're really trying to extend your drains indefinitely.

My dealer told me that the factory requires an oil change at least every 7500 miles and a filter change every 3750. So that's what I'm doing. I bought Valvoline SynPower 5w-30 and the dealer put it in for me. Saves about $10 when you bring in your own oil. Saves big $$ compared to buying syn off the dealer.

I trust the author of the Motor Oil Bible and acording to his research, AMSOIL is the best you can buy. He's based his evaluation on test results alone. Comparing Apples to Apples.

I won't be tearing the cams out of my V to evaluate the oil, but I might send a sample into a lab for testing.

Ben

[BillStrong]

I won't be tearing the cams out of my V to evaluate the oil, but I might send a sample into a lab for testing.

Ben

no balls -- no glory

[TCsynthetics]

I use AMSOIL in all my vehicles and use Blackstone Labs for analysis. No problems and save a bunch money. AMSOIL is the best on the market. With their synthetic nanofiber filter you can go 1 year or 25,000 miles between oil changes. They have a written guarantee on their oil.

Have a great day!Cliff

[BenDupre]

Do you knof if they have a filter that fits the Versa? Number?

Ben