Switching to synthetic

[c-rad]

Well, I've gone past 500 miles on the motor now and its time to switch to synthetic. I am debating between Mobil1 10W-30 and Mobil1 15W-50. Which one and why? Motor oils are not my forte.

[BACARDI_DWB]

well on my turbo engines i usually go 10w40.

but any blend of 50 means its better refined. from what i was told european cars use it and refine it... but i may be wrong about the euro part. use a thicker weight so the 15w50 would be fine especially since you are in florida. lower weights like 5w is for colder climates

and also a quick buyer tip. go to walmart. you can pick up the same oil but it comes in 5 quart jugs for cheaper than most places usually. i try to price shop for oils..

[rico05]

Well, me and all my friends w/ SRs and KA-Ts local (there are a lot of us in this little town actually) run 15W-50 summer oil. I will start switching to 10W-30 for winter now that I have an oil cooler. And all I run is Mobil1 full synthetic. There is some good oil info in the 240SX Tech section:

zerothread/54902

[teddy]

If you're looking for some really awesome oil info, check here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and go into their forums. This is a forum fred tends to frequently visit if that tells you anything.

The 15w50 is a good oil, but is now only offered in ep and seems a little thick for my taste. I don't think you'd have any problems running the 10w30 m1. It's the most shear stable out of the bunch. The amsoil 10w30 would be another excellent choice.

Rico, do you notice any sluggish response in the revs or on cold starts? Just curious.

[rico05]

Well, my cold start sucks, so I let it warm up to NOT before I drive anyway. Hopefully, I will have my issues fixed as soon as my Nismo FPR gets here, then I will let you know.

[c-rad]

Yeah, I think I am just going to get the Mobil1 10W-30. Its $20 for a 5qt jug at walmart

[240sxbobbis]

that sounds pretty good . my car works now yay thanks everyone for helping me out

[Kouks]

I would go with 10w-40. The second number in the "code" is the weight when the oil is hot. 30w is not thick enough oil for a turbo car to function and lubricate properly the turbocharger and valvetrain. 30w is for n/a engines, and s/c.

With an oil cooler, I wouldnt mind hinting at the 10w-30, but without one, go with the hot 40 weight.

Redline, amsoil, royal purple, all make 10w-40 synthetic, with redline using the highest level of base stock(group 5) which is the most synthetic oil you can buy. Other manufacturers use lower grades of base stock oil, and use enough additives to justify it being called "full synthetic"

I was in the debate found in the tech section, and I used to work at a shop that was a Royal Purple dealer, so ive learned my fair share about "grades" of oil, and definitely being able to seperate the good from the bad.

Also, since mobil one doesnt sell 10w-40(at wal mart at least), I recommend going to advance and picking up the redline 10w-40. Its 7something a quart. still only like 30 bucks. royal purple uses group 3 base stocks, but have one of the best additive packages of all the oil companies. RP is like 6 something in most places that sell it.

Enough talk for now.

[mrzabala]

I with Kouks, 10w40 ftw. Target sells mobil cheaper than most auto stores from experience. But I dont know if theres Target in other states.

[BACARDI_DWB]

love those walmart specials!!

[c-rad]

I would go with 10w-40. The second number in the "code" is the weight when the oil is hot. 30w is not thick enough oil for a turbo car to function and lubricate properly the turbocharger and valvetrain. 30w is for n/a engines, and s/c.

With an oil cooler, I wouldnt mind hinting at the 10w-30, but without one, go with the hot 40 weight.

Well, I have a ball bearing turbo that uses a lot less volume of oil if that makes a difference. Also, I have the factory oil cooler. What do I do??? BTW, I've been using 10W-40 conventional oil so far.

[teddy]

Redline is a really high quality oil. You could run the 10w40 and have no problems, but I still say that you'd be fine with a 10w30(regardless of brand) if you wanted to. I doubt you're going to be able to notice a difference between the two.

The important thing is that you get the dino out and a syn oil in.

[Nowhere]

omg you guys have no idea what you're talking about....

READ THE WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLE THING!!!!!!!!

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html

[Kouks]

Originally posted by nowhere_"omg you guys have no idea what you're talking about...."

Please share youre all knowing knowledge, and dont entirely point to an oil forum.

What should he go with then zues?

[Nowhere]

ignore the link @ the bottom for the bitog (bob oil guy), read the 101, 102, 103, etc, etc....

He needs to go with the oil the ENGINE needs...

my 2 pennies are staying in my pocket.

[teddy]

ignore the link @ the bottom for the bitog (bob oil guy), read the 101, 102, 103, etc, etc....

He needs to go with the oil the ENGINE needs...

my 2 pennies are staying in my pocket.

Please recommend something to us oh wise and worthy master? And tell us what's so way off base of running say a 10w30, a 10w40, or a 0w40 please? I expect to see some UOA findings as well.

[mrzabala]

Theirs a forum on the site where you discuss with experts and other car owners about different oils for cars and what "oil the engine needs."

[float_6969]

I have heard from multiple places, that during the summer, that running an xW-40 is the minimum, and a 50 doesn't hurt. The thing is that a 50W syn and a 50W non-syn don't flow alike. I'm currently running Mobile 1 15-50 and I have no problems with startup whatsoever and the car revs just like it always did. Great oil and I like it alot.

[NeedCAforS13]

i run castrol syntec 10w-30. but i get it free at work :P and change it monthly. haha.

oh and i've put over 25k miles on the motor since I rebuilt it. and it was my first motor rebuild ever. still runs like a champ. and the s14 bb turbo is still in great shape. there's nothing wrong with 10w-30 synthetic in a turbo car.

[Kouks]

Its about to go cool c-rad here in florida, so I say run it, 10w-30 mobil 1 syn. If sean can run it, so can you. i like a little extra thickness for when it gets hot though, but i might have to try the 10w-30.

[mrzabala]

when you rebuild the engine, do you have to treat it like a new car? My brothers have new cars and they use 5w30 I think for the first 10000miles than the switch to 10w30/40. Is this the same for rebuilts or different? I try using weight 40 since my cars have pretty high mileage.

[ccasey645]

omg you guys have no idea what you're talking about....

READ THE WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLE THING!!!!!!!!

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html

wow i read it, learn something new everyday your oil pump cant create the same oil pessure at the same rpm's with a thicker oil hence not enought lubrication and fricton incures robbing your power. a 0-30 wt oil will thicken less at room temp so when you start your motor you have more lubrication. and a 10-40 wt oil will not create the required oil pressure at the same rpms for nessisary lubrication at operating temps. remember flow equals lubrication, not weight. for the rest I'll let you read it!
Modified by ccasey645 at 11:26 AM 8/26/2006

[boost_boy]

Its about to go cool c-rad here in florida, so I say run it, 10w-30 mobil 1 syn. If sean can run it, so can you. i like a little extra thickness for when it gets hot though, but i might have to try the 10w-30.

I too like some thickness! I've always used a 20w-50 oil whether it was Castrol syntec blend or greased lightning, the amount of wear on my engines were minimal. Look at it like this, turbo engines dirty-up oil in a quick fashion which makes oil a throw-away fast product, if oil changes are done on time. Why waste the money? You can even use catrol's gtx oils as long as you change the oil frequently. Your driving habits warrants when you should change your oil. If you're an abusive driver, change your oil every 2000 miles. You guys get where I'm going with this as I'm not an oil expert, but I do know what I've used in my cars over the past 16 years and 20w-50 syntec blends seem to be the best for the climate I live in and the way I drive.

Dee

[yourmomsrps13]

no one is running royal purple? i love the stuff, i wouldnt use anything else. yeah it costs more but you only have to pay it every oil change, look at the price of gas and i still buy it, plus you get what you pay for most of the time.

and i mean come on its PURPLE its gotta work LOL

[BACARDI_DWB]

i fill my tires with nitrogen! costco uses that instead of normal air.(its lighter)

sorry off topic..

I try to use a 50 just because i like how it runs. but i go between a 10w40 and 15w50 all synthetic depending on price. and location. most places you can't find the 50...

[Kouks]

Why wouldnt you use anything else? Royal Purple isnt a bad motor oil at all, in fact its in the top ten in my book.

I used to sell RP exclusively at my shop, but Im not biased. redline makes a better product IMO, and it does cost more.

[UMS_CA18DET]

i fill my tires with nitrogen! costco uses that instead of normal air.(its lighter)

You are aware that compressed air is usually 77% Nitrogen right? Also Nitrogen isnt that much lighter compared to Oxygen.

the Oxygen atomic weight is 15.9994 and Nitrogen is 14.00674 and Oxygen has about 22% in the Atmosphere so really your not saving much weight.

[float_6969]

They don't do it for weight reasons. The Nitrogen is MUCH less susceptible to expansion and contraction with changes in temp. So if you fill a tire with straight nitrogen, it will tend to have it's tire pressure remain more stable. Also, the nitrogen that they fill the tires with tends to by more "dry" and therefor doesn't have to deal with effects of water on the expansion and contraction of the air.

[NeedCAforS13]

supposedly its better on the rubber as far as deterioration from inside as well.