Swap the infamous 'CVT' Transmission --- Feasible or Not?

[VStar650CL]

That does create a problem (but still worth the effort); the only solution is 'have a key made' or 'hopefully the JY has it (or its still in the car, on the floor somewhere). OTHER-WISE, a Locksmith would have to make one.---

That's a negative, Ghostrider. The gen5~6 Altimas all have I-Key fobs, not steel smartkeys. If the JY doesn't have the fobs then GFL.

[Smagegy]

That does create a problem (but still worth the effort); the only solution is 'have a key made' or 'hopefully the JY has it (or its still in the car, on the floor somewhere). OTHER-WISE, a Locksmith would have to make one.---

That's a negative, Ghostrider. The gen5~6 Altimas all have I-Key fobs, not steel smartkeys. If the JY doesn't have the fobs then GFL.

Are you saying you 'can't get a FOB key' for JY car --- I thought YOU could get one with the VIN?

[VStar650CL]

Not with an I-Key. It needs to be programmed to the BCM and ECM in the car before the BCM will allow the ignition to wake up. You need a special scanner and special software for that.

[Smagegy]

Not with an I-Key. It needs to be programmed to the BCM and ECM in the car before the BCM will allow the ignition to wake up. You need a special scanner and special software for that.

Lets assume there is 'No Key' available at the JY.

I could take the 'prospective donor TCM' and bring it to 'Recipient car' for testing. If TCM doesn't work, I can take it back to the JY and get a refund. I could rinse and repeat until I find a TCM that works...

Once I find a TCM that works, (assume the transmission is good), go back and buy the corresponding transmission and install to Recipient Car...

What do you think... would this work?

[VStar650CL]

The donor TCM not working is very, very unlikely to be an issue. It containing judder or pressure/slip codes because the donor transmission it was attached to is f#cked is the likely issue. For the record, you're overthinking this by a factor of about a million.

[Smagegy]

Not with an I-Key. It needs to be programmed to the BCM and ECM in the car before the BCM will allow the ignition to wake up. You need a special scanner and special software for that.

*-Thanks V,

YES, I got mild case of OCD (obsessive compulsive). PARTICULARY when attempting a new project. I'm somewhat of a 'Research specialist' --- so I kinda enjoy digging into a subject.

ALSO, I only have 1 car now (usually have 2). But bad luck with 'idiot drivers' have totaled 2 nice cars in the past 2 yrs. *it doesn't pay to drive a new car anymore --- some idiot with little to no insurance 'guaranteed' will smash your nice car to pieces (put money on it).

When I put my next car up on a lift, it could be apart for days/weeks (depending on 'Lady Luck' and getting a good transmission). Lately, I've had to rely on 'Public Transportation'

--- When was the last time you rode the Public Bus System ??? (you should see some of the characters riding the county buses)

In any case, I don't want to screw up. Sure do appreciate your expertise.

Right now I'm reading up on ECM, TCM, BCM's.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Swapping a transmission isn't really an easy job. Definitely not where you want to cut your automotive teeth. If you don't know the terms ECM, TCM, BCM already, you might be biting off more than you can chew.

[Smagegy]

Swapping a transmission isn't really an easy job. Definitely not where you want to cut your automotive teeth. If you don't know the terms ECM, TCM, BCM already, you might be biting off more than you can chew.

I'm an amateur ... My Gear Monkey friend is a Retired Porsche/ Audi mechanic (who's pretty dam good mechanic). I WOULD NEVER attempt this without him leading the job...

[VStar650CL]

Well, there's nothing tricky about swapping a CVT provided you have the mated TCM. The rest is nuts and bolts. What's tricky is getting the fluid level right after the swap, since there's no dipstick on the '10D's. You need to use the leveling plug. Do a search for that, it's been discussed in here a hundred times. If you're unlucky enough that the donor transmission is from a '14 (no plug, go figure) then you'll need the Nissan test/calibration dipstick, available from TechMate. The reason this matters is because CVT's are hideously sensitive to overfilling. It foams the fluid and makes hot spots on the metal belt, and a full quart over can kill a brand new unit in 1000 miles. I don't know if Porsche uses any CVT's, so that's something your buddy may not know.

[PalmerWMD]

On the gen5 Altimas, for example, the '13's, 14's, 15's, and '18's all had minor differences from one another. The only ones that cross 100% are the '16~'17's, but those had crap Valve Bodies.

Aha, so in that generation the 18s would have the most reliable transmisisons?

I really like the look of that genreration that the 18 is part of.

The greater overhang on the newer Gen altimas bugs me a bit.
But of course otherwwise they are so much better if reports are to be belived.

But still there are low miles 18s around left and right to pick up..and many folks seem to be real happy with those cars too.
I like the larger fuel tank on them and I remember u once called their Qr25de's "possibly the best 4 cylinder ever made".

I dont really know exactly when I will return to CONUS, but when I do, I will likly have to wait for my Armada for at least a couple months while its on the boat.
Thats easily 3k in car rental fee, I'd rather put towards an addtional vehicle.

I also remember you once wrote the CVTs for the V6s are really good.

On the other hand the 19s and up do have those sweet LED headlights and the previous gen had issues with their headlights ( were those ever addressed in the 18s?)

[VStar650CL]

Aha, so in that generation the 18s would have the most reliable transmisisons?

Correct.

I also remember you once wrote the CVTs for the V6s are really good.

Definitely better than the '10A/'10D/11E's used with the 4-bangers.

On the other hand the 19s and up do have those sweet LED headlights and the previous gen had issues with their headlights ( were those ever addressed in the 18s?)

Unless you're made out of money, OEM LED's are an expensive gimmick. When a "bulb" fails you need to replace a whole $1~2K assembly. That's nuts when you can retrofit a halogen assembly with good quality aftermarket LED's for a $tenth of that. In the gen5 Altimas, the reduced heat load from aftermarket LED's also prevents the problem they had with peeling chrome on the reflectors. That issue was strictly heat-induced, and replacing the hot halogens with cooler LED's totally mitigates it.

[PalmerWMD]

Aha, so in that generation the 18s would have the most reliable transmisisons?

Correct.

I also remember you once wrote the CVTs for the V6s are really good.

Definitely better than the '10A/'10D/11E's used with the 4-bangers.

On the other hand the 19s and up do have those sweet LED headlights and the previous gen had issues with their headlights ( were those ever addressed in the 18s?)

Unless you're made out of money, OEM LED's are an expensive gimmick. When a "bulb" fails you need to replace a whole $1~2K assembly. That's nuts when you can retrofit a halogen assembly with good quality aftermarket LED's for a $tenth of that. In the gen5 Altimas, the reduced heat load from aftermarket LED's also prevents the problem they had with peeling chrome on the reflectors. That issue was strictly heat-induced, and replacing the hot halogens with cooler LED's totally mitigates it.

Super answer thank you so much!

So while the 19s and up have better (ie more reliable trannies) the Altimas CVTs in general, are not as bad as people make them out to be and if I can snag a low mile 18 my risk is minimal/reasonable.(?)
And I seem to recall you once saying that after market LED bulbs are not good?

Of course that was many years ago and now I think they become better and so a better headlight in the 5hth Gen altima is only a small upgrade away.
(PS: yes everything you write I commit to memory, and I am sure I am not the only one on here )

Hmm, before I digress this thread anymore, maybe I will open up another in the 5th gen Altima subforum.

In the meantime enjoy this Altima arctic trip collage:

[VStar650CL]

So while the 19s and up have better (ie more reliable trannies) the Altimas CVTs in general, are not as bad as people make them out to be and if I can snag a low mile 18 my risk is minimal/reasonable.(?)

My advice to everybody looking at '10A/'10D CVT Nissans is the same, bring along a dongle and a copy of CVTz50 and look for judder codes (P17F0/P17F1) or overheats (CVT-A/CVT-B greater than zero). If it's code-clean and shows no overheats, call it good and service it immediately just because.

And I seem to recall you once saying that after market LED bulbs are not good?

No, I just said China-cheap ones aren't good. My personal choice is Diode Dynamics, because they're not only well engineered but they're the only brand made in USA. However, the technology has made leaps-and-bounds improvements and continues to improve, so even some of the offshore-made brands like Lasfit and Auxito are producing some really good stuff these days.