Suspension guru's PLEASE HELP PICS

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Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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Okay so right now my suspension is tenzo r gf2 springs/KYB GR2 struts & shock.
Its very bouncy on most bumps on crappy oklahoma roads. My fronts don't rub but my rears do. Mostly the passenger quarter panel because i recently got it fixed. I cannot roll one of my fenders because of bondo in it. Rims are 17x9 +12 all around with a 225/45/17 tire.
Made a couple threads and have yet to find an answer.
Question:
What is my best bet to stop the rubbing?
RUCAS? Coilovers? better shock/spring combo? I know coilovers are very pricey so will negative camber stop the rubbing?
Heres a lot of pics. It rubs mostly on bumps. I HAVE NO ROLL ON FENDERS.
All opinions welcome
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poshatch
Posts: 853
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:44 am
Car: p.o.s. 1990 240sx hatch

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yup rucas and camber would help

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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Okay. Whats difference between RUCAS and a camber kit?
Is this what i need?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WICKED-R ... ccessories

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poshatch
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Car: p.o.s. 1990 240sx hatch

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RUCA = Rear Upper Control Arm will look like this:

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or this

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i would think a camber kit would most likely mean the same thing as RUCAS

or it would mean the front camber plates you can buy (id wait till your ready for coilovers that have them already, and if your not rubbing in the front dont bother)

those would be something like this:

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^those only apply to the fronts

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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Okay my fronts are fine. My rears are what need adjusted because my tires are getting shred marks in them. Did you see my link?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WICKED-R ... ccessories

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poshatch
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haha i didnt see the link yeah those would correct for camber, wicked also is a pretty decent company my friend has those on his car (i got no name rip off BS haha)

remember adjusting one arm will most likely affect the other so a toe arm might be needed as well if your going to end up going lower

when installing you should try to get it as close to stock length as possible and then shortening (adding camber) until you stop rubbing

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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Well i'm not going lower, I just need to adjust the camber so it wont rub. I dont want to go lower with these crappy roads here. So just some rear neg camber will do the trick? I'm staying at this ride height

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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I have super hicas by the way...

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poshatch
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hmm i know what super hicas is but im not familiar with how it changes the rear suspension since i dont have it haha and yeah just pull the top of the wheel a slight bit away from that lip and it will just camber more the more your suspension travels so it should clear with the bare minimum of a adjustable RUCA adjusted slightly shorter than stock

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
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Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
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Okay I think I'm going to buy them right now. Is this what you would do if you had a similar problem?

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poshatch
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lol yeah thats exactly what i would do in your shoes, except i didnt spring for the wicked i got some bogas knock of s*** hahaha, holding up so far lol

but i mean i had more lowness goals so id probably grind off that inside lip or pound it flat also haha your wheels have nice fitment so the flushness capability is most deff possible

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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Yeah i've tried grinding it and when i hammered i was scared of the quarter panel bondo cracking and it still rubbed more. And grinding made the fender lip sharper. The lip has metal and i think also bondo in it. I hammered the metal up but that bondo i going nowhere

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poshatch
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such a shame i feel you cause your car looks amazing, my car is a bucket so i just do whatever it takes to get the job done hahaa but yeah i have rolled fenders and i rub on hard bumps as well just as you do however its no threat of really doing any damage cause i dont have a sharp lip. the way i would fix it would add a slight bit of camber....same thing as you

eventually im sure something will click and you can get that lip out of the way for more lowness

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
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alright thanks for the help man. My body guy is super busy right now thats why i'm trying to find some cheap ways right now. 100 bucks for wicked camber arms sounds good to me. I bought them by the way

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confused9
Posts: 297
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Car: '91 HatBackwards 240sx
dead and gone '89 hatch

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get -4.5 in the rear

Hoffman5982
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confused9 wrote:get -4.5 in the rear
that would be hilarious

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poshatch
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i run -5.5 in the front...looks mean not funny haha

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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I think they are telling me to keep the fronts same and the rear with -4.5.
That would look so off

Sugar
Posts: 160
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:01 pm
Car: S13 w/ Sr

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You bought some ruca's to stop that from rubbing? :wtf2:

Its obviously just hitting the lip, hammer that up or roll it with a jack handle. Your car isn't low enough to have fitment issues like this.

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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I can't do that because there is body filler and bondo in it... It will crack if I hammer it or try to roll it

omgshawn
Posts: 231
Joined: Sun May 02, 2010 5:12 pm
Car: S13, EG hatch

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I would say get it fixed right and it wouldn't be an issue

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AZ89two4Tsx
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You're gonna need to roll your fenders. End of story.

If you want your car to have a better stance that is also adjustable to whatever you want, and most likely ride better, get a set of coilovers. RUCA's are pretty much mandatory as well as you're gonna need to adjust your rear camber.

Really no way around it.

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biggie
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Yep, roll/pull, then off to the body shop. That's cheaper then going though tires at an insane rate.

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Gabes13
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Most rucas on their shortest setting are the same length as stock. So the only way you'll get more negative camber is if you pull the locking nut off.

Sugar
Posts: 160
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Car: S13 w/ Sr

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Blue.s13 wrote:I can't do that because there is body filler and bondo in it... It will crack if I hammer it or try to roll it
You don't need to roll the fender itself. Just roll the lip inside so it mates up flush the inside the fender.

Blue.s13
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 7:47 pm
Car: 93 Blue hatch with Uras full kit
90k miles

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Someone told me after he got coils his stopped rubbing when it lowered his height. He said it was Stance GR+ i think. I could roll my driver side fine but my passenger will crack terribly if i tried to roll it

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Gabes13
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That's bc coilovers usually have less travel than conventional dampers

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240lookis
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Car: 1990 240sx hatch

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you NEED TO ROLL YOUR FENDERS.
there is absolutely no way that bondo will crack if you properly flatten the inner lip with a fender roller.
then all your rubbing problems will be solved, so that you can get coilovers, slam, and then have to fix the rubbing once again.

getting rucas and running hella camber will fix the problem, but it is easily one of the dumbest ways to fix this small issue.

Sugar
Posts: 160
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:01 pm
Car: S13 w/ Sr

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Blue.s13 wrote:Someone told me after he got coils his stopped rubbing when it lowered his height. He said it was Stance GR+ i think. I could roll my driver side fine but my passenger will crack terribly if i tried to roll it
I don't think you under stand what we are saying.

This is what needs done.... dont actually roll a lip out of the fender.
Image
Before -------------------- > After

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FinkenS14
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx S14
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Solution for tire rubbage.

Slam the s*** on coilovers, itll make your camber negative enuff, that fixes your problem :P


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