Supercharger - Ignition/Timing help

[Mad_Man]

Update:

I've upgraded the ignition system so I have powerful spark and adjustability on a laptop. Preliminary timing map I made didn't really change much except immediately better idle, but thats not the issue at the moment.

So after checking the ecu codes on a hunch i saw a code 21 and a code 34. The 21 is easily explained because I had a wire disconnected when cranking the engine over while installing the MSD ignition. Since it stays for 50 or so starts, that code shouldn't show up again. The interesting part is the code 34. As you probably know this is for the knock sensor circuit. Per the FSM i measured continuity to the engine block through the sensor and it read 550k ohms or so. This reading is consistent with sensors cracked due to heat, and upon removal it was indeed cracked.

What I am getting at is, could this malfunctioning sensor be causing most of my timing issues? It would make sense considering the ECU retards timing and bumps up the fuel when a sensor goes bad.

Anyway, what do you guys think?
Modified by Mad_Man at 6:11 PM 3/11/2007

[NateDogg]

I think you found the problem. Well done!

It's encouraging to find people that actually have a multi-meter and know how to use it to diagnose problems, rather than asking for a magical diagnosis over the internet by simply providing a couple of symptoms.

[Mad_Man]

I think you found the problem. Well done!

Anybody else care to speculate?

The new sensor should be in by tomorrow, so I will see howthings go.

[WDRacing]

Faulty knock signals will definitly kill your timing...no doubt about that. I'd plug a new one in, but not install it on the block.

By the way, where are the friggin pics man???

WD

[Edub1]

Anybody else care to speculate?

The new sensor should be in by tomorrow, so I will see howthings go.

The wise and powerfull Tarbash predicts it will either be the sensor or something else.

[Mad_Man]

I'd plug a new one in, but not install it on the block.

Why not plug it in? And if its not plugged in, does it need to be grounded?

[180sx]

I am glad you figured it out.With working knocker that thing should get much smoother. But as i tell everyone all the time your 1st purchase shouldn't the turbo or blitz exhaust. 1st purchase should be ECU related electronics.Its your choice if go with piggies or stanalone or a chipped ecu, but you should be in control of timing/fueling. I don't see people blowing up when they controll both, but fuel only combo's even with dizzy pushed back end up in "another blown motor" thread. Get basic's figured out on NA motor before tunning FA. And no matter what, reading codes from ecu or via consult should be done before anything gets bolted on replaced on the vehicle.

[WDRacing]

No knock signal = no rough ride and timing retard.