THE EBAY PRE-PRODUCTION KITS WE OFFERED FOR $1200 INCLUDED A USED M62 EATON. THE PRODUCTION ADAPTER KIT MINUS THE USED BLOWER IS ONLY $1200. THE NISSAN BLOWER CAN BE FOUND ON EBAY FOR $100-$150. SO THE COST WILL BE ABOUT $150 MORE THAN THE EBAY SETUP FOR OUR PRODUCTION DESIGN. IT IS INTENDED FOR THE D-I-Y INDIVIDUAL WHO WANTS TO USE COMPONENTS THEY ALREADY HAVE STARTED TO COLLECT FOR A TURBO KIT. THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE PRE-PRODUCTION KITS AND THE FINAL ADAPTER KIT IS ALL FITTINGS, HARDWARE, ADAPTERS, ETC ARE CNC CUT, HOLES THREADED, ETC. THE ADAPTER KIT STILL REQUIRES SOME ADDITIONAL 'TINKERING' TO GET THE IAC, AAC, ETC PIPES RUN, BUT WE SUPPLY THE HOSES, FITTINGS, WIRES, ETC SO FEW TRIPS TO THE PARTS STORE ARE REQUIRED. THE COMPLETE KITS RETAIL FOR $3795. NICO MEMBERS PAY $2995--SAME FOR SHOPS, ETC. THAT IS WHOLESALE. THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE IS THE ADAPTERS AND BLOWER ARE FULLY RACE PORTED, AND THE COMPLETE KIT WILL INCLUDE AN UPGRADED 65MM TBODY, LARGER MAF, UPGRADED INJECTORS, ETC. SOME OF YOU ARE ASKING FOR DYNO RUNS AND VIDEOS, ETC. WE HAVE SUBMITTED DYNOS ALREADY THAT BEAT AN SR20 SWAP--ESPECIALLY THE TQ NUMBERS--THE 240 KIT IS ONE OF MANY DESIGNS WE ARE DOING, SO MUCH INFO WILL COME FROM OTHER BUYERS WHO INSTALLED ONE (LIKE WATTYDCHI) AND GIVE THE RESULTS. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE ADAPTER SET AND OUR PORTED VERSION WILL BECOME APPARENT WITH A FULLY BUILT ENGINE. EVEN A STOCK ENGINE WILL SEE 20+ HP GAINS OVER A NON-PORTED SETUP. SMOOTHING THE CASTINGS WILL HELP THOSE OF YOU WITH NON-PORTED KITS, BUT YOU WONT BE ABLE TO TOUCH THE HP POTENTIAL OF OUR RACE-PORTED VERSION (NO, WE WILL NOT SHARE HOW TO DO IT). WE ARE ALSO WORKING ON A 3.0 STROKER KA24DE THAT WILL BLOW ALL OF YOU INTO A STATE OF EUPHORIA. COMBINED WITH THE PORTED KIT, WE SHOULD SEE OVER 500FT/LB. THAT IS A BIG BLOCK 454 TORQUE FIGURE. WHILE A BUILT ENGINE WITH A TURBO MAY MAKE MORE PEAK HP, OUR SETUP WILL BE INSANE TO DRIVE. ALL MY DESIGNS ARE DONE FIRST ON MY SIMULATOR PROGRAM, AND THEN I BUILD THEM. I AM ALWAYS WITHIN 2% OF THE HP/TQ I PREDICT, AND SOMETIMES WE MAKE MORE THAN THE SIMULATOR PROGRAM SHOWED.wattydchi wrote:The cost of the setup is kinda tricky since I got one of the first kits at a discounted rate and I'm sort of an eBay whore. Anyway, here is a list of what I paid for everything:
Supercharger kit $1250370cc Injectors $80Misc. Install parts (i.e. coolant, boots, etc.) $150Bikirom engine management $250Zeitronics wideband O2 w/digital display $370Boost gauge w/install kit $3395 obd I ecu $15Headers $1503" Exhaust w/muffler $100
If you have an s13, you will need to upgrade your MAF.
I'm sure I'm missing something, but that a quick run down. Also, doing this install in Alabama in 100 degree heat and 65% humidity is only for the true fanatics out there. Although, when you have a supercharger kit sitting in front of you, your motivation level amazingly goes way up.
I think someone asked how it drove. It is really nice and smooth. The throttle response is great. You shred the tires all the way through a corner or baby it out in the rain. Also, having a full 9 pounds of boost as low as 1500 rpm is really nice. I recomend this for anyone who is not looking for 500 HP and just wants the car to drive really strong without that aniemic (sp?) feeling in the upper rpm band. Remember, I have done no porting to the motor, intake manifold, or supercharger all of which will increase the efficiency of the whole system. This is all planned for when the temperature drops this fall.
Hope this helps,Watty
GREAT QUESTION. BRUCE CROWER (CROWER CRANKS, RODS, ETC) DID STUDIES ON CRANK STABILITY AND DISCOVERED A SIMPLE PHENOMENON. A 3" STROKE 'ORBITS' INSIDE THE MAIN JOURNAL BEARINGS AT 8000 RPM+, AND EACH 1/2" ADDITIONAL STROKE LOWERED THAT ORBIT BY 1000 RPM. USING THE KNOWN 'ORBIT FACTOR' WE CONCLUDE THAT THE STOCK KA 3.75" STROKE WOULD START TO ORBIT AT 6500 RPM. STROKING IT WOULD LOWER THAT TO 5750 RPM, WHICH COINCIDES WITH WHAT WE ARE BUILDING--A 6000 RPM REDLINE TORQUE MONSTER. ADDING A BLOCK GIRDLE (IT ALREADY HAS ONE) RAISES THE BLOCK STABILITY TO THE POINT WHERE WEB CRACKING IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE IF THE BLOCK IS MAGNAFLUXED AFTER BEING SLEEVED. THE GIRDLE WILL NEED TO BE CLEARANCED .100" ALONG WITH A SMALL AREA OF THE INSIDE BLOCK WALL. THE PURPOSE OF THIS KIT IS TO MAKE A SUCH A STRONG TORQUER THAT WE WILL USE AN AUTO TRANS. IMAGINE A 3000CC 17 PSI 500 FT/LB AUTO TRANS 10 SEC DAILY DRIVER WITH A 6K REDLINE. A BLAST TO DRIVE, A BLAST TO DRIFT, AND YOUR GIRLFRIEND OR MOM COULD RUN 10'S WITH IT AT THE TRACK (AND PROBABLY HAVE LOWER ET'S THAN MOST OF YOU AS WOMEN HAVE MUCH BETTER REACTION TIMES). THE CRANK WILL BE INTERNALLY BALANCED AND THE STOCK HARMONIC BALANCER WILL BE RETAINED OR REPLACED WITH A FLUIDAMPER OR SIMILAR HYDRO-WEIGHTED UNIT. THE HARMONICS OF A 4.25" STROKE IS NOT DIFFICULT TO DEAL WITH. EVERY STROKED BIG BLOCK SEES LONGER STROKES, AND SOME MARINE ENGINES LAST 2000 HRS WITH 4.5" STROKES. 2000 X 60MPH = 120K MILES. THANKS FOR A GREAT QUESTION.ILikeMy240sx wrote:torque curve looks pretty smooth. Linear power curve. Awesome. Looks like a fun car to drive.
I sincerely hope to see more things done for SCed KAs.
SCMASTER, 3L stroker kit for a 4 banger sounds amazing. What are you guys going to do about extra vibration caused by the stroker kit? 2.4L is already pretty big for a 4 banger. I'd imagine the dynamic load put on all reciprocating components due to large vibration from a 3L stroker kit can be quite large. I know this addresses issues with long term reliability but just wanted to know if that's something you looked into.
Thanks
SCMASTER, thanks for addressing my question. It is very informative. But as always, answer to a question raises more questionsSCMASTER wrote: GREAT QUESTION. BRUCE CROWER (CROWER CRANKS, RODS, ETC) DID STUDIES ON CRANK STABILITY AND DISCOVERED A SIMPLE PHENOMENON. A 3" STROKE 'ORBITS' INSIDE THE MAIN JOURNAL BEARINGS AT 8000 RPM+, AND EACH 1/2" ADDITIONAL STROKE LOWERED THAT ORBIT BY 1000 RPM. USING THE KNOWN 'ORBIT FACTOR' WE CONCLUDE THAT THE STOCK KA 3.75" STROKE WOULD START TO ORBIT AT 6500 RPM. STROKING IT WOULD LOWER THAT TO 5750 RPM, WHICH COINCIDES WITH WHAT WE ARE BUILDING--A 6000 RPM REDLINE TORQUE MONSTER. ADDING A BLOCK GIRDLE (IT ALREADY HAS ONE) RAISES THE BLOCK STABILITY TO THE POINT WHERE WEB CRACKING IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE IF THE BLOCK IS MAGNAFLUXED AFTER BEING SLEEVED. THE GIRDLE WILL NEED TO BE CLEARANCED .100" ALONG WITH A SMALL AREA OF THE INSIDE BLOCK WALL. THE PURPOSE OF THIS KIT IS TO MAKE A SUCH A STRONG TORQUER THAT WE WILL USE AN AUTO TRANS. IMAGINE A 3000CC 17 PSI 500 FT/LB AUTO TRANS 10 SEC DAILY DRIVER WITH A 6K REDLINE. A BLAST TO DRIVE, A BLAST TO DRIFT, AND YOUR GIRLFRIEND OR MOM COULD RUN 10'S WITH IT AT THE TRACK (AND PROBABLY HAVE LOWER ET'S THAN MOST OF YOU AS WOMEN HAVE MUCH BETTER REACTION TIMES). THE CRANK WILL BE INTERNALLY BALANCED AND THE STOCK HARMONIC BALANCER WILL BE RETAINED OR REPLACED WITH A FLUIDAMPER OR SIMILAR HYDRO-WEIGHTED UNIT. THE HARMONICS OF A 4.25" STROKE IS NOT DIFFICULT TO DEAL WITH. EVERY STROKED BIG BLOCK SEES LONGER STROKES, AND SOME MARINE ENGINES LAST 2000 HRS WITH 4.5" STROKES. 2000 X 60MPH = 120K MILES. THANKS FOR A GREAT QUESTION.
Why do you say that? 2.0L and 18 psi on this turbo its just entering its efficiency range.GEO wrote:^^ isn;t 18psi choking the turbo a bit there?
THE POWERBAND IS SEAMLESS, SO IT FEELS LIKE AN ENGINE TWICE THE SIZE. IMAGINE A 5.0 STANG ENGINE IN ONE--FEELS LIKE THAT!!! TURBO ?? WHO NEEDS A STINKIN TURBO??? THEY LAG, LEAK, BURN UP, BLOW OFF HOSES, HAVE SEVERE TUNING ISSUES, GIVE DIFFERENT AND UNPREDICTABLE BOOST LEVELS DEPENDING ON LOAD FACTORS, AND LAST AN AVERAGE 9 MONTHS (LIKE THE GESTATION PERIOD OF A BABY). THE EATON BLOWER HAS A $17 NOSE SEAL THAT IS REPLACABLE IN 15 MINUTES, AND THEY LAST 10 YEARS OR 150K BETWEEN $200 BEARING REPLACEMENTS. THE BASELESS CLAIM OF A TURBO BEING 'FREE HP' IS ABSURD, AND UP TO 14 PSI A TURBO HAS NO ADVANTAGE AT ALL OVER AN EATON. PUMP GAS CAN SUPPORT 18 PSI ON A PROPERLY TUNED/BUILT ENGINE, SO FOR THOSE RUNNING BOOST ABOVE 2 BAR ABSOLUTE A TURBO MIGHT WIN A RACE--AND I SAY MIGHT!!! IMAGINE A 500 FT/LB 240SX RUNNING 9'S. HOW MANY OF YOUR ANEMIC TURBOS CAN DO THAT? DONT MISUNDERSTAND ME. AS A TURBO DESIGNER (I OWN AT LEAST FIVE TURBOCHARGER COMPRESSOR WHEEL DESIGNS) I HAVE DELVED INTO EVERY AREA OF TURBOS, AND FIND THEM USELESS IN 99.9% OF APPLICATIONS--ESPECIALLY FOR STREET USE. AFTER YEARS OF WORKING WITH TURBOS I TIRED OF THE CONSTANT HASSLE OF A TURBO. SINCE WORKING ON THE EATON UNITS WITH PORTED HOUSINGS, I REALIZED THE BS I HAD HEARD FROM THE TURBO MUCKY-MUCKS WAS JUST THAT. PURE BS, WITH WHIPPED CREAM ON TOP. SO IN RARE CIRCUMSTANCES I STILL SUGGEST A TURBO, BUT NEVER ON A STREET DRIVEN DAILY DRIVER.audi wrote:haha
it looks like a neck jerker on the torque but the HP looks really smooth hows the power band feel on that bad boy? I would love to have lag free boost but if you want to take the car to the next HP level you need to turbo charge and engine swap but that thing is perfect for a DD.
SCMASTER, Ive learned new things from your post. It's always nice to learn something new everyday from a knowledgeable person like your self. So, the orbital of course happens on any reciprocating IC engine but my guess is that the frequency or RPM at which the orbiting motion occurs would be different depending on stroke and mass. Im wondering which has more effect on at which frequency the orbiting motion occurs... is it the length of stroke or is the mass? My guess would be length of stroke... perhaps that's why you are worried more about the stroke length at which the Crower test was done rather than how much the Crower assy weighed.SCMASTER wrote: THE ORBITING OCCURS REGARDLESS OF THE RECIPROCATING MASS. IT IS BASED ON A CERTAIN OSSCILATION INHERANT IN ANY PISTON ENGINE. WHILE COUNTERBALANCING AND BALANCING THE CRANK CAN HELP, IT DOES NOT ELIMINATE THE FACTOR. BALANCING IS USUALLY DONE TO A SPECIFIC RPM--THE TYPICAL CRUISING RPM IN A MARINE APPLICATION, ETC, AND WITH CERTAIN % BOB-WEIGHTS TO ACCOMODATE THIS. THE ORBITING WOULD OF COURSE BE A LESSER MEASUREMENT IF THE ROD WEIGHED 1GRAM AND THE PISTON 1 GRAM COMPARED TO THE STOCK 700/400 GRAMS RESPECTIVELY. IT WOULD STILL OCCUR, AND USING A STROBE AND DIAL INDICATOR WITH HIGH SPEED FILM IS HOW CROWER FOUND THIS. IT IS NO WONDER THAT THE 15K RPM INDY CARS HAVE A 2" STROKE, THEIR TI RODS WEIGH 250 GRAMS, AND THE PISTONS 200 GRAMS. THE RODS WE ARE USING WEIGH 500 GRAMS, AND THE PISTONS 310 GRAMS. THE POLAR MOMENT OF INERTIA IS PROBABLY LESS WITH OUR STROKER AND LIGHT WEIGHT COMPONENTS THAN THE STOCK PARTS AT 7K RPM, BUT WE WONT NEED RPM. WEIGHT RELATED STRESSES CUBE AS THE RPM DOUBLES. STILL, WE WANT TO BUILD AN INSANE MOTOR BECAUSE SOMEONE SAID IT CANT BE DONE. THAT IS WHAT DRIVES ME TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT. AND FOR THE 968 OWNER, WE HAVE FITTED ONE OF OUR AM-BDT (ALTERNATOR MOUNTED-BELT DRIVEN TURBO) TO A 944, SO IT SHOULD WORK ON YOUR VEHICLE AS WELL. SOMEONE SAID IT COULDN'T BE DONE, SO........
I agree with you that SCs are much easier to maintain than a turbo and might be less problems with SC units.SCMASTER wrote:
THE POWERBAND IS SEAMLESS, SO IT FEELS LIKE AN ENGINE TWICE THE SIZE. IMAGINE A 5.0 STANG ENGINE IN ONE--FEELS LIKE THAT!!! TURBO ?? WHO NEEDS A STINKIN TURBO??? THEY LAG, LEAK, BURN UP, BLOW OFF HOSES, HAVE SEVERE TUNING ISSUES, GIVE DIFFERENT AND UNPREDICTABLE BOOST LEVELS DEPENDING ON LOAD FACTORS, AND LAST AN AVERAGE 9 MONTHS (LIKE THE GESTATION PERIOD OF A BABY). THE EATON BLOWER HAS A $17 NOSE SEAL THAT IS REPLACABLE IN 15 MINUTES, AND THEY LAST 10 YEARS OR 150K BETWEEN $200 BEARING REPLACEMENTS. THE BASELESS CLAIM OF A TURBO BEING 'FREE HP' IS ABSURD, AND UP TO 14 PSI A TURBO HAS NO ADVANTAGE AT ALL OVER AN EATON. PUMP GAS CAN SUPPORT 18 PSI ON A PROPERLY TUNED/BUILT ENGINE, SO FOR THOSE RUNNING BOOST ABOVE 2 BAR ABSOLUTE A TURBO MIGHT WIN A RACE--AND I SAY MIGHT!!! IMAGINE A 500 FT/LB 240SX RUNNING 9'S. HOW MANY OF YOUR ANEMIC TURBOS CAN DO THAT? DONT MISUNDERSTAND ME. AS A TURBO DESIGNER (I OWN AT LEAST FIVE TURBOCHARGER COMPRESSOR WHEEL DESIGNS) I HAVE DELVED INTO EVERY AREA OF TURBOS, AND FIND THEM USELESS IN 99.9% OF APPLICATIONS--ESPECIALLY FOR STREET USE. AFTER YEARS OF WORKING WITH TURBOS I TIRED OF THE CONSTANT HASSLE OF A TURBO. SINCE WORKING ON THE EATON UNITS WITH PORTED HOUSINGS, I REALIZED THE BS I HAD HEARD FROM THE TURBO MUCKY-MUCKS WAS JUST THAT. PURE BS, WITH WHIPPED CREAM ON TOP. SO IN RARE CIRCUMSTANCES I STILL SUGGEST A TURBO, BUT NEVER ON A STREET DRIVEN DAILY DRIVER.
Like a glove! Actually we used an aftermarket cold air intake and just cut off the down angle that should have gone to the Throttlebody in order to make a straight shot to the new tb position.elgarvo616 wrote:wattydchi-does the intake piece fit under the stock hood? or did you have to mod it at all?
My bad, I forgot those are rated to 390hp.ILikeMy240sx wrote:
Why do you say that? 2.0L and 18 psi on this turbo its just entering its efficiency range.
First of all, I know someone with a 302 EFi in a s13 coupe. boils the tires and after 4500rpm is boring.SCMASTER wrote:
THE POWERBAND IS SEAMLESS, SO IT FEELS LIKE AN ENGINE TWICE THE SIZE. IMAGINE A 5.0 STANG ENGINE IN ONE--FEELS LIKE THAT!!! TURBO ?? WHO NEEDS A STINKIN TURBO??? THEY LAG, LEAK, BURN UP, BLOW OFF HOSES, HAVE SEVERE TUNING ISSUES, GIVE DIFFERENT AND UNPREDICTABLE BOOST LEVELS DEPENDING ON LOAD FACTORS, AND LAST AN AVERAGE 9 MONTHS (LIKE THE GESTATION PERIOD OF A BABY). THE EATON BLOWER HAS A $17 NOSE SEAL THAT IS REPLACABLE IN 15 MINUTES, AND THEY LAST 10 YEARS OR 150K BETWEEN $200 BEARING REPLACEMENTS. THE BASELESS CLAIM OF A TURBO BEING 'FREE HP' IS ABSURD, AND UP TO 14 PSI A TURBO HAS NO ADVANTAGE AT ALL OVER AN EATON. PUMP GAS CAN SUPPORT 18 PSI ON A PROPERLY TUNED/BUILT ENGINE, SO FOR THOSE RUNNING BOOST ABOVE 2 BAR ABSOLUTE A TURBO MIGHT WIN A RACE--AND I SAY MIGHT!!! IMAGINE A 500 FT/LB 240SX RUNNING 9'S. HOW MANY OF YOUR ANEMIC TURBOS CAN DO THAT? DONT MISUNDERSTAND ME. AS A TURBO DESIGNER (I OWN AT LEAST FIVE TURBOCHARGER COMPRESSOR WHEEL DESIGNS) I HAVE DELVED INTO EVERY AREA OF TURBOS, AND FIND THEM USELESS IN 99.9% OF APPLICATIONS--ESPECIALLY FOR STREET USE. AFTER YEARS OF WORKING WITH TURBOS I TIRED OF THE CONSTANT HASSLE OF A TURBO. SINCE WORKING ON THE EATON UNITS WITH PORTED HOUSINGS, I REALIZED THE BS I HAD HEARD FROM THE TURBO MUCKY-MUCKS WAS JUST THAT. PURE BS, WITH WHIPPED CREAM ON TOP. SO IN RARE CIRCUMSTANCES I STILL SUGGEST A TURBO, BUT NEVER ON A STREET DRIVEN DAILY DRIVER.
late S14(97-98) more comonly known as S14 kouki, also called S14.5.yessir240 wrote:i just wanna know what a s14a is
And it's pretty counter-intuitive, as far as order is concerned. (the 95/96's being "b" and the 97/98's "a")gepeto wrote:S14 "A" Is just a way people call them, nothing official.
aaronsnocker1 wrote:Quit being such a condescending douche.
Well that's a slight bit better than a condescending butt plug.aaronsnocker1 wrote:Quit being such a condescending douche.