Day pic:

Box has custom round corners with High Gloss Black face
.
Night pic:

Lights turn on with truck


06M4.5 wrote:and yes I do drive a little crazy when needed.
No go with the oem sub location, trust me I tried but not worth the money or lost space. Free-air would rattle eveything and I would have to cut up the rear deck both metal and panel trimDoN_BLaZe34 wrote:Lol I always thought u wanted to do a more subtle install...one that would fit in the oem spot. You were so adamant about it. Looks good though, I like.
What are the specs on the sub and amp
yea go with the velcro.....they have some extra heavy duty stuff called titanium(home depot,lowes....etc)06M4.5 wrote:Thanks White-Rush
That's the last thing I have to do, need to find a way to hold it down without looking ugly.
and yes I do drive a little crazy when needed.
06M4.5 wrote:velcro won't work becuase it then would be very difficult for the box to slide for removable.
I need to find a nice looking hook & ring to install at the back of the box which will not be seen from the front and interfere when box needs to be removed.
Time to go shopping at Home Depot




.rxmclaren7 wrote:i know this is goign to sound like a dumb question, but has anyone had difficulty installing an aftermarket sub and amp? i went to my local audiophile place and they said i would need an adapter to make the install cleaner and safer...just wondering if anyone else had this issue or ever heard of this? i am not very good at doing electrical stuff so i wont be attempting this on my own...
Black_Mx wrote:It's hard to describe.
It will hit harder if I listen to C.D.'s and less on my Ipod hookup (USA SPEC).
It's like 10x better then the stock setup but no where near a ported box setup ( equals to some sealed setup ) .
The thing I like is that I don't get the trunk rattling like my car is about to fall apart and of course the way it only takes up less then 5% of my trunk.
The downfall of having the sub in the pass-through is that five people in the car equals no base, since the seats is a good isolator and the armrest seals around pretty tight.
On the plus side to that is it turns the whole rear bench into massaging seats and you can pick your massage by the song you like.![]()
stickers are on there because I didn't want to look at just a black hole.
It's not bad for being only a 200w setup.
06M4.5 wrote:.rxmclaren7 wrote:i know this is goign to sound like a dumb question, but has anyone had difficulty installing an aftermarket sub and amp? i went to my local audiophile place and they said i would need an adapter to make the install cleaner and safer...just wondering if anyone else had this issue or ever heard of this? i am not very good at doing electrical stuff so i wont be attempting this on my own...
If you have the 14speaker bose system you would need an adapter, what this does is fix the problem of the oem sub output. It stops the bose from lowering the bass output to the subwoofer as you increase the volume on the radio. It also lets you tune the signal higher in order to get a better, cleaner & stronger signal to your new amp.
I used an Audio Control LC2i, I also got the remote bass knob too. Both parts cost around $110 to $125. Only 4 wires needed and they all get conn to your new amp. It works great and very easy to install.
Thank You.07sportm35 wrote:Wow! Nice job both you and T/S. What a great idea to preserve trunk space(how often do you have 5 anyway).
I would have to disagree with this statement about it being hard to find an aftermarket to fit the OEM spot. I have been working on replacing every speaker in my M and found the kicker cvt 10" was a drop in replacement, just had to cut a hole in the cover that mounts in the trunk, actually looks kinda cool when you look in the trunk. The kicker is a 2ohm svc sub so it works "ok" with the factory amp. I did fatmat the entire rear deck and seat when i had it all apart. By no means does it have the bass output that your setup has but it is a 2x improvement over stock. I have zero rattles as i have fatmat'ed all most the entire car: door panels, rear deck (top and bottom) and behind seats and sealed the pass thru in rear. Sounds amazing with new infiniti doors and kicker sub, and by looking at it you would never know anything has been done to the car beyond hearing it!!06M4.5 wrote:No go with the oem sub location, trust me I tried but not worth the money or lost space. Free-air would rattle eveything and I would have to cut up the rear deck both metal and panel trimDoN_BLaZe34 wrote:Lol I always thought u wanted to do a more subtle install...one that would fit in the oem spot. You were so adamant about it. Looks good though, I like.
What are the specs on the sub and amp![]()
Well I took the easy way, this is what I got:
Audison mono amp SR1DK (940w rms @ 2ohms or 1,200w rms at 1ohm).
2 Rockford Fosgate 12" woofers P3's
I Bassworx dual 12" ported box with custom front high gloss black panel and rounded corners
Audio Control LC2i with remote bass knob
140w circuit breaker
I set the amp at 2ohms 940w with the gain set at 10am (less than half)
The Audio Control LC2i is set at less than half on all 3 knobs
The radio bass is set at 2 bars before half
I installed the amp under the deck with the LC2i so they'er out of the way.
When I need the trunk i'll just take the box out