Subframe spacers vs. pineapples. vs. nismo subframe bushings, also coils vs. agx

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E7-S14
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Here are two Installation threads WITH PICCSSSS!!!gonna help me out a whole lot

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=242578

zerothread/97924

the second one is better IMO...

what have you decided to do deuceforty?Nismo or Aluminum?

I'm leaning more towards aluminum for my car at this point


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i would definately replace the bushings if they are worn.... ( i plan to do the bushings and tie rods after i get my car lowered....

between coils and springs/struts.... its an age old question... its all in what u want... do u want a slammed car, and plan on doing track events?

keep in mind to lower a car significantly, u need to replace RUCAs, tie rods, and camber plates to compensate the geometry... you will get bad tire wear otherwise..... while thats ur choice, u may be replacing tires more often....

the question is up to u.... do to track ur car, or daily it? (think of potholes and speedbumps)..... i personally am going with a set of koni adjustable shocks and RSR springs.... i found them used, w the fronts needing rebuilt.... but it was a good price.... lowers it about 1.2 to 1.5 inches, w a spring rate of 4k or 5k (iirc)

most coils are 6 to 8 to start.... really its up to u....

im sorta a noob, but this is wat ive read up on here, just puting in my .02


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deuceforty
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E7-S14 wrote:Here are two Installation threads WITH PICCSSSS!!!gonna help me out a whole lot

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=242578

zerothread/97924

the second one is better IMO...

what have you decided to do deuceforty?Nismo or Aluminum?

I'm leaning more towards aluminum for my car at this point
its my DD, so im not going all out drift/track, but i have decided on the poly if i can find them, or aluminum... i dont wanna drop 200 on nismo when i will have to replace them again in the future (i plan on keeping my car forever )

im thinking of picking up some RUCA's (found some cheap tanabes) and start a box in the corner of my room for my suspension overhaul (dont wanna put them on til i get my coils)

and ive decided on going with the apexi coils as well (unless i find a STEAL on something else).. time to start saving up those paychecks

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E7-S14
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good luck finding polyurethane bushings..i doubt they existif so.. why are they so DAM hard to F***** FIND!!!!

lol your like me.i have Energy Suspension Master bushings kit and Kazama subframe spacers sitting in my room...ill put everything on when i buy the subframe bushings(still donno which one I'll go with dammit!!)might do RUCAs at the same time.. donno yet. depends on how long i want to tolerate my F***** up subframe bushings..its pretty bad..

if i go aluminum ill have to find buyer for the spacers/collers

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deuceforty
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E7-S14 wrote:good luck finding polyurethane bushings..i doubt they existif so.. why are they so DAM hard to F***** FIND!!!!
ive been looking high and low, but some dude in this thread said that he can get them for like 75 shipped or something... i would go poly over aluminum, and aluminum over nismo, either way, i WANT THESE THINGS OUUUUT!!!!

ill probably do a write up with pics, just for to make me feel accomplished... when do you plan on doing yours?

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E7-S14
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i edited my post lolbut yeah id rather go Polyurethane also.. if i can find the dam things

I think ill do a write up with the ES bushings kit .. maybe ill score a custom title... heh heh

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ddgsxr504
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E7-S14 wrote:good luck finding polyurethane bushings..i doubt they existif so.. why are they so DAM hard to F***** FIND!!!!
Here you go you impatient F*CKS!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...77839

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E7-S14
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..so they do exist..

arnt they missing 4more pieces..the aluminum subframe bushings are 4 piece...isn't their supposed to be a piece that goes up top?

do you know of anyone who has these?..

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ddgsxr504
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All you do is drop the subframe, remove old sh*t, press new ones in thru the top and then reinstall the subframe and re-use the caps that are under the nuts that tighten it down.

Instead of using 2 shorter bushings per mounting point (one top/one bottom) these run the entire length of the hole.

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E7-S14
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those polyurethane pieces actually look really solid.. my guess is they ride just like the aluminum ones...

i think im still heading towards the aluminum ones..but dam i don't know..i suck at choosing

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Kenny_D
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Dude, if you don't know the difference between coilovers and spring/shock there is a very simple way to find out. Ride in a car with someone. Taking E-Advise on something as important as suspension.

That's like asking what color you should paint your house. Noone's opinion matters but yours and you can only make that with experience.

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ddgsxr504
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I already bought the poly ones. Aluminum is good but poly flexes, alum does not.

How loud and rough do you want your ride to be? That's the question.

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deuceforty
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Kenny_D wrote:Dude, if you don't know the difference between coilovers and spring/shock there is a very simple way to find out. Ride in a car with someone. Taking E-Advise on something as important as suspension.

That's like asking what color you should paint your house. Noone's opinion matters but yours and you can only make that with experience.
how will riding in a car explain the techincal differences and variations?

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d3vilskid
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i do hav a question bout the bushing. it says its made out of polyethylyne, is it the same as polyurethane?

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E7-S14
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d3vilskid wrote:i do hav a question bout the bushing. it says its made out of polyethylyne, is it the same as polyurethane?
obviously not considering that they are two different materials...


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NJMarc
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If you don't want the scientific differences skip to the bottom: From Wikipedia:

Polyurethane:A polyurethane, commonly abbreviated PU, is any polymer consisting of a chain of organic units joined by urethane links. Polyurethane polymers are formed by reacting a monomer containing at least two isocyanate functional groups with another monomer containing at least two alcohol groups in the presence of a catalyst. Polyurethane formulations cover an extremely wide range of stiffness, hardness, and densities. These materials include low density flexible foam used in upholstery and bedding, low density rigid foam used for thermal insulation, soft solid elastomers used for gel pads and print rollers, and hard solid plastics used as electronic instrument bezels and structural parts. Polyurethanes are widely used in high resiliency flexible foam seating, rigid foam insulation panels, microcellular foam seals and gaskets, durable elastomeric wheels and tires, electrical potting compounds, high performance adhesives and sealants, Spandex fibers, seals, gaskets, carpet underlay, and hard plastic parts. Polyurethane products are often called "urethanes". They should not be confused with the specific substance urethane, also known as ethyl carbamate. Polyurethanes are not produced from ethyl carbamate, nor do they contain it.

AndPolyethylene:Polyethylene (IUPAC name polyethene) is a thermoplastic commodity heavily used in consumer products. Polyethylene is a polymer consisting of long chains of the monomer ethylene (IUPAC name ethene). The recommended scientific name 'polyethene' is systematically derived from the scientific name of the monomer.[1][2] In certain circumstances it is useful to use a structure–based nomenclature. In such cases IUPAC recommends poly(methylene).[2] The difference is due to the 'opening up' of the monomer's double bond upon polymerisation.

The difference, Polyethylene is a thermoplastic (ie harder the polyurethane). The polyethylene feels like hard plastic but does flex a tad. Polyethylene won't transmit as much noise through the subframe as aluminum will but will be noticeably louder then the polyurethane or nismo rubber with the polyurethane doughnuts.

I've had my S13 for 10 years now (my first car) and have just replaced my bushings with the polyethylene units (I had a spare subframe laying around) you can hear more clutch chatter and diff whine but with the built motor and the N1 dual silenced its not annoying.

Just my .02, hope it helps.Marc

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ddgsxr504 wrote:All you do is drop the subframe, remove old sh*t, press new ones in thru the top and then reinstall the subframe and re-use the caps that are under the nuts that tighten it down.

Instead of using 2 shorter bushings per mounting point (one top/one bottom) these run the entire length of the hole.
Pffff u make that sound so easy.

Just get poly bushings off eBay, since I'm assuming u will be daily driving it. If ur tracking it get aluminum, but make sure u don't get some eBay ones cuz u might have some fitment issues trying to get the aluminum bushings in. If u never replaced the subframe bushings before, I suggest u get some help and call a day off at work, LOL.

If ur not planning to track ur car jus get spring/strut combo.

But me honestly, coilovers all the way. Megan will be ur best bet if ur not planning to track ur car and still want coilovers. I would choose stance tho...

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E7-S14
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R6_240sx wrote:
But me honestly, coilovers all the way. Megan will be ur best bet if ur not planning to track ur car and still want coilovers. I would choose stance tho...
Megans will def take a beating on the track..I've witnessed this first hand.

ill be the brave one here and buy aluminum for DD... if it turns out to be too much(which i doubt.. seeing as i have a high tolerance level..I.E. Megan Tracks).. i think ill be able to take it..i doubt sound will b too much of an issue.. bcuz of my 3inch catback.. which drowns out everything else...

ill be another that will be able to explain the aluminum feel in a week or two..

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Oh I never said they won't. I'm saying if u want coilovers that bad, but don't plan to track it, megans are ur best bet.

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deuceforty
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E7-S14 wrote:
Megans will def take a beating on the track..I've witnessed this first hand.

ill be the brave one here and buy aluminum for DD... if it turns out to be too much(which i doubt.. seeing as i have a high tolerance level..I.E. Megan Tracks).. i think ill be able to take it..i doubt sound will b too much of an issue.. bcuz of my 3inch catback.. which drowns out everything else...

ill be another that will be able to explain the aluminum feel in a week or two..
after MUCH thought put into this.. due to my current living situation (apartments with no garage.. needing a DD) i cant even risk having my car down for more than one day, so im going with the collars over the full replacement for now untill i get a garage.. let me know how your bushings work out for you

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E7-S14 wrote:If your bushings are shot Spacers/collers wont help you. nor will pineapple spacers

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ddgsxr504 wrote:
Here you go you impatient F*CKS!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...77839
I dont know if this will help anyone but I also found these...

http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html

The Details from their site...

KCA 349 Rear Nissan Sub-Frame Align and Lock Kit

Again, PDM is pleased to announce these HOT new Nissan bushings that we have worked with Whiteline on introducing to the Nissan market world wide !!!! One of the last missing links in Whiteline’s extensive polyurethane bushing assortment for the Nissan S13, S14, 300ZX and Skyline are these performance Rear Sub-Frame Align and Lock isolator bushings. Designed to alter the rear alignment, these bushings can be installed for drag launches, drifting, or for overall higher performance cornering, accelleration and braking.

These bushings can be installed either on top of the sub-frame, or below, and alter rear suspension alignment for your desired driving styles. Unlike cumbersome main sub-frame bushings, which require the entire rear end to be removed from the vehicle, and the OEM rubber bushings burned/cut out (messy job) these engineering grade low compliance polyurethance rings allow simple, effortless installation which drastically reduce the dreaded rear axle hop commonly found on Japanese rear wheel drive vehicles. Want to go drifting for the evening ? Simply install these bushings in the correct locations, and your alignment is instantly changed for "dori dori". Pop them out afterwards, and your alignment is perfect again for daily street use. Going to the dragstrip this Friday night ? Same thing. Simply pop the bushings in the correct locations, and you remove rear negative camber for maximum tire contact patch, for maximum accelleration. Want overall better response and performance for street, auto-x and track use ? Keep the bushings installed fulltime and help reduce subframe squirm and bounce.

These cleverly designed bushings are THE hottest items this year, and a great addition to your Nissan vehicle. Will fit 1989-1994 S13, 1995-1998 S14, R32, R33, R34 Skyline, and Z32 300ZX.Rear Nissan (S13, S14, 300ZX, Skyline) Subframe Bushings (KCA349) . . . . . MSRP $130.00 Sale $108.00

Thoughts on these? A worthy alternative?

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E7-S14
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deuceforty wrote:
after MUCH thought put into this.. due to my current living situation (apartments with no garage.. needing a DD) i cant even risk having my car down for more than one day, so im going with the collars over the full replacement for now untill i get a garage.. let me know how your bushings work out for you
ha..dropped the full aluminum spacerssince Nismo bushings are only about 30 bucks moreim still trying to get rid of my Subframe spacersand no.. sitll dont have the subframe bushings..bills put a hurtin on my wallet..

AceInhole
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91rs13 wrote:The real reason for coilovers is to corner weight the car. ie: adusting the balance by changing the ride height to get a desired weight balance.
This is incorrect. You use adjustable spring perches to balance cross weight percentage. However, most people won't be able to tell the difference between perches set by measuring tape vs scales. Regardless, unless you drastically change ride heights, you won't notice much of a performance difference, as the longitudinal weight balance of the car won't change.

Quote »If you want to take the car to a different level, then Coilovers will save you money in the long run. But if you want to be a "serious" competitor --the cost is much higher. ---But that can come later. [/quote]"Coilovers" be definition are what a 240sx comes with stock. However, by the "slang" definition meaning adjustable perches, a good damper/ spring combo will dominate most "coilovers" available for the 240sx. If you want performance, the only easily obtainable option is Koni "Yellows" with Ground Control springs, which blow away pretty much every "JDM" setup. If you want to slam the car, go buy some Megan/ Stance/ KSport/ D2/ PoweredbyMax/ Blablabla.
E7-S14 wrote:good luck finding polyurethane bushings..i doubt they existif so.. why are they so DAM hard to F***** FIND!!!!
http://www.courtesyparts.com/M...de=gs

They reportedly work with some cutting of the bushing. I'd recommend running poly on the S13, which has solid differential mounts to begin with, although I haven't seen anyone actually do any performance testing to see if some driveline shock absorption is better than none (i.e. completely solid).

Finally, your other option is to drop the subframe and fill in the stock bushings with polyurethane window-weld, and you could theoretically cap them with subframe spacers, I suppose, but by then you're approching the cost of just buying full poly bushings.


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