stuttering Q ?'s

[blind6]

I was driving to work today with my cruise locked in at 80mph and my Q started jerking/stuttering and the TCS light and slip light started blinking back and forth. When I pulled to the shoulder my idle dropped below 500 and started idling really rough and low and the lights started dimming. After sitting for a few I started it again and started to drive about a mile then it started all over again. My car is a 97 w/ 126,000 miles. MAF was cleaned recently, TB was cleaned, new plugs less than 2,000 miles, new fuel filter and BG44k. I did search and all I could conclude was bad fpcu or maf. Is there any particular tests that can isolate which it is without breaking the bank. Will a OBDII reader help me in this case? Not trying to repost but get specific info, thanks in advance.

[maxnix]

Might want to post in Infiniti Online Mechanic Forum.

Post the results of the OBD II scan.

Assumed you used correct OEM spec NGK plugs?

If so, might be a connection problem.

[blind6]

yeah NGK plugs from Joe.

[maxnix]

Did you check your MAF or any other connedtions you disturbed? Did you use conducting grease on them?

[blind6]

It's been a couple weeks since I cleaned the TB and MAF, it's all been running good till this drive this morning. I think it's crazy that it would be the MAF unless it's going bad. I am at work for another 8 hrs till I can look at it again. I did not specifically clean each connection last time.

[Q45tech]

Has the alternator been replaced? for the recall.

[blind6]

Working on that i just contacted the dealer and they of course acted dumb to my inquiry. I have the info to let them know now.

[blind6]

no current recalls for my vehicle

[maxnix]

no current recalls for my vehicle

What's your VIN?

[Jeff Williams]

It has the sound of a low battery or alternator problem. When was the battery replaced?

[blind6]

VIN: JNKBY31D6VM003147I think that is the right VIN I'll have to confirm if nothing pulls up.The battery was replaced about a year to a year and a half ago.

Thanks

[maxnix]

VIN: JNKBY31D6VM003147

Ah, a Ivory Quartz CA model with a Beige interior, how nice! Made 09-1996.

Unfortunately, it does appear yours is too early to be covered.

Better call Joe. Don't forget new battery, belts and pulleys.

[blind6]

amazing how those VIN's work...

UPDATE: I had to get towed last night, I could not get any codes or CEL's while monitoring the motor while idling. I checked and cleaned all the connectors that I thought were related to the MAF or looked like they needed it. Everything seemed fine so I started to drive home. I was traveling at about 40-50mph when I started to travel uphill and the Q started stuttering and the "SLIP" light flashed on and continued until I pulled over. After stopped on the should the idle continued to be irratic and when I put the car in park it died. I then started the car again at it started right up. After driving alittle more it did the same thing, the motor continued to to "fight" to keep idling. I could smell gas during this time, then the motor died again. I then had the Q towed to a nearby location and there it sits. I am gonna send it to the dealership today for a diagnosis. I am stumped as to why the SLIP light was comming on.

[maxnix]

Check the battery and alternator. How new is the battery and is it up to OEM specifications? If the alternator is fried, it is best to replace the battery anyway.

Have you run a quart or two of ISO-HEET through the tank? Ever run it below ¼ tank full? Hawaii, rain, bad UST could lead to water in gas. Get not other brand.

[blind6]

It has been below a quarter tank before and it stormed here recently, like the past 3 weeks. Battery was replaced about a year and a half ago. What's the best way to test the alt? What is UST? Maxnix, what did you mean by "get not other brand"?

[Falkdesigns]

My alternator went out a few months after I got my Q, but it had none of your symptoms, I was heading to work on the 405 and it just lost power, pulled over and it wouldn't start back up. $275 later, it's been fine ever since. Hope to hear that you got it sorted soon!

[96Qowner]

Damn, that sounds JUST LIKE a bad MAF. Should be a code for it, if it is.

Q_Ship did have a MAF fail on his Y33:

zerothread?id=110709

[blind6]

If there is no CEL could there still be a code? I think I asked this before and I can't remember. I used a scan gaurd by linear-logic scan gauge to test for codes and it kept comming back without any. Is it possible that it would not detect codes from the Q?

[96Qowner]

OBDII will turn off the CEL after the problem ceases, while OBDI will leave it there until reset. The code should remain in the ECU for some time, though.

Puzzling issue.

Edit: Uh, I think I may have said that backwards. In any case, the code should still be there.

[maxnix]

Maxnix, what did you mean by "get not other brand"?

Use only isopropyl alcohol in ISO-HEET. Do not use methanol nor ethanol based water dissolvers.

[blind6]

Could it be that the reader is not compatable or should it not matter as long as it's a OBDII?

[blind6]

oh ok, how long does it take for this to take effect?

[96Qowner]

Yeah, the ScanGauge sure looks like an OBDII reader:

http://www.scangauge.com/

Looks like the wrong reader for Nissans, though - says Ford.

There are a few different protocols.

"As a rule of thumb, GM cars and light trucks use SAE J1850 VPW (Variable Pulse Width Modulation). Chrysler products and all European and most Asian imports use ISO 9141 circuitry. Fords use SAE J1850 PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) communication patterns."

http://www.obdii.com/connector.html

[blind6]

Yeah, I guess I need to find a reader for the Q. Any brands that are reputable? I think it will be a worthwhile purchase in the long run.

[96Qowner]

I think this one is really cool - CarChip:

http://www.davisnet.com/drive/...s.asp

It also logs four parameters for up to 300 hours. $179 retail.

Cheaper on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

This is the older model #8210, though, only logs 75 hours. It's more than you need and CarChip needs to upload into a computer - some overkill and hassle.

Regular OBDII readers usually run around $39 or so. No big differences between most of 'em (as long as it's the right protocol, heheh).

[blind6]

Cool, I'll check the local parts store out here, the ebay one doesn't ship to Hawaii. $70 is worth it to me. Is the only way to test the MAF is to wiggle the connector loose, and the alternator bench test?

[96Qowner]

It's just that MAF problems are usually connector-related. No cheap 'n easy way to test one. You cleaned yours, so it's probably not an issue of dirt on the element. You just pull the connector and clean it up good, apply some dielectric grease to guard against future corrosion and snap it back together. (Careful disconnecting the plug - kinda tricky tabs on it). But sometimes it fails inside the housing where you can't get at it.

No Autozone where you're at? They'll usually check your codes for free.

Rule out the MAF before you get into alternator issues.

[blind6]

We only have Checkers Autoparts out here. They do free diagnostics, but I don't think the HS kids working there know what they are doing. The plastic clip has been broken already but the clip does seat properly.

[96Qowner]

One last thought for you as well as the archives:

This forum throws around the MAF-cleaning procedure as if it were harmless. I have yet to talk to a tech who thinks it's a good idea to spray anything on the MAF element, much less an owner doing it. That element is rather delicate.

Q45tech does his on a regular basis and he has 300k on his now, so it's not like it can't be done. Many other posters do the same. I haven't read about anyone harming their MAF by cleaning it.

But stuff can happen.

As detailed on http://www.Q45.org , "do not hold the nozzle too close to the MAF. Allow the spray of the aerosol can to clean the device, but never touch the sensor itself.Allow it to dry for one or two hours."

My understanding is that "too close" is under a foot or so away.

I cleaned mine a few times, but it steadily deteriorated over time. I haven't taken it apart to check the internals and I'm only assuming that's what went wrong with it. I only know of a couple people who have.

[blind6]

So the direct stream is not suppose to hit the element, just the mist? As far as internals go, how/what would be looked at and is it a wise choice to attempt to disassemble it?