Strange shake

[radride]

Here is the scoop. When I start the car up and let it idle in park it runs super smooth. When I start driving it its smooth as well but when I come up to a stop sign or red light and have to stop it will run smooth and then it will have a shake then smooth and then shake, shake. The weird thing is as soon as I put it into park or neutral the shake goes away. I'm really scratching my head on this one. Is there something that needs to be cleaned or is my torque converter getting messed up. I checked the transmission fluid and it looks nice and clean (bright red) and there is plenty of it in there. Other than that the car is awesome!!!

R.K.

[CrimsonQ]

Mine was doing that same thing when I first bought her.

Usually only on morning starts where it was cooler than 50f or so. Turned out to be a dirty maf/and or connector. Havent had that issue since.

It would sometimes kill the engine too:)

[lakeland]

Mine has been doing this for 9 months. It has been at the Infiniti dealer for three days and the Nissan dealer for two days. Both report that nothing is wrong. All readings are exactly where they are supposed to be. I was advised to drive it till something breaks and have it towed back to the dealership. Is this what they meant by the Infiniti experience?

[squeefoo]

You might try adjusting the IAC valve 2.5 - 3 turns out from the bottom... or look for vac leaks from cracked hoses.

If the MAF Connector doesn't do it.

[maxnix]

Before doing anything, run a Qt. or two of ISO-HHET through it. Nothing else containing methyl or ethyl alcohol.
Modified by maxnix at 4:32 AM 6/27/2006

[radride]

I [QUOTE=maxnix]Before doing anything, runa Qt. or two of ISO-HHET through it. Nothing else containing methyl or ethyl alcohol.[/QUOTe

I don't understand what you mean.

R.K.

[squeefoo]

Before doing anything, runa Qt. or two of ISO-HHET through it. Nothing else containing methyl or ethyl alcohol.

I don't understand what you mean.

R.K.

Oh...He's just drunk again.... probably MD 2020...

He meant, run some Isopropyl alcohol through it. ISO-HEET

[3rd Q]

Rad,Had the same symptom when my transmission was failing. The TC wouldn't unlock until it warmed up and would make the engine want to stall.Hopefully the problem is MAF or injector related.

Paul

[radride]

I don't think its my transmission as the traction control works just fine. I will try adding that stuff to my tank.

R.K.

[Fred D.]

I have a shake in my 1994 Q45, I have tryed to fix it by cleaning the MAF with electric component cleaner and cleaned connector and used dialectic grease. I also cleaned TB and tested the fuel injectors, none of this fixed the shake. I still have a shake, and like yours it is worse in drive as oppsed to park or netraul, I think its a transmission mount thats what Im going to replace on mine. Good luck on your shaken Infinity.

[radride]

Let me know how it goes.

R.K.

[radride]

I think I might of fixed the problem. I put in some injector cleaner in my gas tank and now the shake has dissapeared for now. Hopefully it stays away!!!

R.K.

[Falkdesigns]

I run Redline fuel system cleaner about every 2-3 months.

[nuQ]

I run Redline fuel system cleaner about every 2-3 months.

how does the redline compare to BG44k or even chevron techtron injector cleaner????

[KU4FIZE]

So did someone finally get a solution for this or no? Mine is a 97Q, started doing same thing about 5 months ago. I noticed that it shakes more often when the AC is on. Summer in LA just started and the shake gets really annoying when i'm trying to cool. I just got bosch sparks today. I think the shake might be caused by a missfire. I'll let u guys kno after i change them.

[maxnix]

I just got bosch sparks today.

Do not use Bosch!

Read more posts!

[deepsouthq]

Please use the correct NGK plugs for your car, IOS or local dealer will stock them.

[Q45tech]

The 90-96Q almost never [1 in 10,000] suffer from defective ingition coils whereas the later models redesign and cost reduction make it like [1:1,000] or worse!

With OBD2 new suppliers came on line offering a less than robust product.........all those required extra sensors [for OBD2] resulted in severe spec cutting.

However almost manufacture got bitten by ignition coils domestic and foreign.................not sure even today's units are of the class of the initial design.

When something NEVER FAILS it is overdesigned according to cost accountants!

[KU4FIZE]

y, what's wrong with bosch? at the dealers the sparks are $11 each. If i go with that it's gonna be about $98, when with bosch it cost me about $50. Plus i dnt see any difference in the sparks. I looked at both of them. Imma student u kno, everything counts. but if there is something seriuosly wrong with bosch then i'll go back to dealers :paceing

[96Qowner]

Do a search for Bosch plugs and you'll realize that they simply don't work worth a crap in a Q45. Here's a thread about it:

zerothread?id=118861

[radride]

So did someone finally get a solution for this or no? Mine is a 97Q, started doing same thing about 5 months ago. I noticed that it shakes more often when the AC is on. Summer in LA just started and the shake gets really annoying when i'm trying to cool. I just got bosch sparks today. I think the shake might be caused by a missfire. I'll let u guys kno after i change them.

I have noticed that as well with my car. The problem is that its intermitant; one day it will do it then a nother it will be fine. BTW what rpm should the car idle at when its fully warmed up because mine idles at 600-650.

R.K.

[Jesda]

No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch. No Bosch.

Unless you want spark plug tips rattling around inside your motor.

[slinger5150]

My 99 has been doing the same thing. Can't figure out what it is.

[paranoidjack]

When something NEVER FAILS it is overdesigned according to cost accountants!

That is the truest, saddest line I've heard in years.

[Q45tech]

Getting the ecu idle speed centered in the desired [shake free range can be a challenge in a less than brand new engine.

You must use a Consult to study the load changes [AC, power steering, alternator] and the rpm drops and recoveries vs the IAC duty cycle.

After warm up the ecu can only change ignition advance, injector open time, and IAC duty cycle.

Some times after cleaning intake, MAF, injectors a few times..........I still have to try 2,3,4,5 different positions of the IAC bypass screw to get perfection and perfection can change depending on ambient temperature.

So I end up resetting IAC bypass screw every 90 days as the seasons change......a 1/4 turn here and there. Gotta have a Consult to see exact idle rpm and IAC duty cycle.

One significant source of variantion is when the ecu changes ignition advance for summer cars where the coolant is nearly just below 200F and just goes hotter by a few degrees retarding the ecu by 1 degree per 5F.

On expressway it stays at 190-195F pull off ramp and it hits 200-205F at a redlight, accelerate it drops below 200.0F timing comes back repeat repeat on surface streets.

This was solved by my larger all aluminum custom radiator and 20% AF in Summer and I almost never exceed 200F so my idle is more stable than typical Q with old used oem rad.

[yodawill2000]

I need to see if a more efficient rad will fit my J.In Dallas on any given day I may be stuck in a traffic jam on the way home.When I get off on the back road that I use to get home It seems my timing is way retarded till I run at 40 or so for about 5 minutes then all is normal.I know I need a transmission cooler but I dont feel any slipping .Just seems like I have a 150 horse motor.

[thedka]

is anyone else still having this issue? How did you fix it? I just noticed it on my 98 when sitting at a stop light. I then drove it 2 hours later and couldn't reproduce the problem. I am taking the car back up with me to WA (currently resides in ca), so i wonder if it is fuel related. Just want to make sure it isn't something more serious before my 1000 mile drive north.

[maxnix]

Do a search for Bosch plugs and you'll realize that they simply don't work worth a crap in a Q45. Here's a thread about it:

zerothread?id=118861

Actually, it's worse than that. They actually destroy the VH45DE.

RTFSM!

[jimbyjimb]

You don't need to buy NGK from the dealer, go to autozone, carquest, napa, etc... I spent less than 3 bucks a plug at Napa for the correct NGK. You don't want broken electrodes in your cylinders, that means pulling the heads to get em out or possibly even dropping the pan, crank and pulling the pistons to hone it and re-ring. It's messy and expensive. By simply choosing the correct spark plug you can save your car from the crusher or 1000's in repair costs. When in doubt do what the factory tells you, especially when it concerns an upscale luxo car that is very expensive to repair.

[Haitian_King]

You don't need to buy NGK from the dealer, go to autozone, carquest, napa, etc... I spent less than 3 bucks a plug at Napa for the correct NGK. You don't want broken electrodes in your cylinders, that means pulling the heads to get em out or possibly even dropping the pan, crank and pulling the pistons to hone it and re-ring. It's messy and expensive. By simply choosing the correct spark plug you can save your car from the crusher or 1000's in repair costs. When in doubt do what the factory tells you, especially when it concerns an upscale luxo car that is very expensive to repair.

All the places I called didn't have the platinum NGK's. I ended up having to go to the dealer and dropping $104 for all new plugs. The idiot service counter attendant had the audacity to display his ignorance by asking if I wanted only 4 or 6 plugs. I had to tell him that Q45's are 8 cylinders. I can see why he thought 4, maybe he assumed that I'd only be doing one bank. (Though for the life of me, I couldn't see why I'd do that.) But 6? WTF?