I'm very sure any Nissan dealer can help you with this, but I'll check my connects as well. I know they'll get them for me no matter where they have to go to get them, but in all these years, I never needed them. I'll check my emails as well. Been busy building the 4G63 for my Elantra, so haven't been around the PC this afternoon.MeanGreenS13 wrote:dee, can you at least point us all towards a location fro OEM rod bolts? thanks buddy! check your emails too =)
watch out, free thinking and questioning might get you banned around here.niscort wrote:Honestly I don't get the point of this subforum. Assuming what people have and what is best for them isn't what I would perceive a Moderators job to be. Who really cares if someone wants to over engineer their engine with the own money. Ultimately it is their choice, right? Wouldn't a good forum be one with a wealth of knowledge, information and fact, which will point people in the right direction such that they can make up their own personal informed decision?
Ive got no problem with anyone adding their piece, because at the end of the day, we can even learn from other peoples misguidance.
Otherwise, you might as well write up a "fact page" and cease any further discussion on the ca18 engine.
many chicks could sing the praises of how I use my rod.ca18datsun510 wrote:i believe in you tms, you throw that rod!!
j/k
themadscientist wrote:many chicks could sing the praises of how I use my rod.
i agree, i know hes trying to save the noobs thats why i havent given him any ****, im a noob to the CA but not a nissan noob by any means, if a stock SR can take upwards of 550-600 to the ground with just cams and boltons (enthalpy's car) than the bolts arent the weak point.themadscientist wrote:I can say the rod bolts are small. Whether they stretch I don't know. I think the reason for bringing this up is people new to the motor are unsure what to do with it and a rampant rumor could take on a ring of truth. Dee is trying to save newbs from taking an unproven theory as fact and spending money they may not need to. I am always cautious with my recommendations because I prefer a lot of over engineering, Dee does not share that view. I worry about the bolts he does not. I do agree with him though that 90% of our CA builders here are never going to push their motors to the point of a bolt failure. I see way too many threads with people debating the merits of having an intercooler, "I am going for 400hp with a 190000K motor". "why doesn't my engine run" etc. I think the guys should spend more time on the basics; proper rebuilds, adequate engine management, supporting elements like cooling and fuel supply and proper tuning. Most of the builders and tuners here will hole a piston, float a valve or pop a head gasket long before they begin seeing any bolts fail, myself included.
the reason why he made this topic is for info. ppl are free to do what they want to their motor but when everyone keeps strtching this lie about the rod bolts then its going to make ppl spend money where they dont need it. so like he said he is just trying to save u guys the headache and money over everyones fear of the rod bolts. now that this is a topic, everyone knows the truth and can now choose an aftermarket bolt (for assurance or high horsepower motor) or oem (save money and not be be a puss about them stretching.niscort wrote:Honestly I don't get the point of this subforum. Assuming what people have and what is best for them isn't what I would perceive a Moderators job to be. Who really cares if someone wants to over engineer their engine with the own money. Ultimately it is their choice, right? Wouldn't a good forum be one with a wealth of knowledge, information and fact, which will point people in the right direction such that they can make up their own personal informed decision?
Ive got no problem with anyone adding their piece, because at the end of the day, we can even learn from other peoples misguidance.
Otherwise, you might as well write up a "fact page" and cease any further discussion on the ca18 engine.
Ironically this is the trouble with rumour. You have searched 2 other forums for information and now have quoted it here as gospel. Why does no one take the time and actually measure their own rod bolts, get on the phone and get first hand information from the source?MeanGreenS13 wrote:THIS JUST IN! THERE IS NO ARP CROSS REFERENCE FOR CA18DET ROD BOLTS! JUN or OEM is all we have guys, did some searching on FA and Zilvia to find this out.
You dear member are entitled to do whatever you want and I say to any and everyone, you are also entitled to your opinion, so please speak your mind as long as you don't turn this into a pissing match and that we won't be having. I don't have to justify to anyone but the owner of the forum as to why a thread gets locked and I don't think he's going to question me as to why, either. Rumors need to be stopped and you can take it for what it's worth or don't take it all (Again, your choice).niscort wrote:
Ironically this is the trouble with rumour. You have searched 2 other forums for information and now have quoted it here as gospel. Why does no one take the time and actually measure their own rod bolts, get on the phone and get first hand information from the source?
On the same note, why waste a fortune on a power enterprise timing belt? has anyone actually broken a factory belt within its mileage? Arp mains? are these really needed? when do you stop...
I understand the sentiment, but to lock threads and pronounce to the world that the majority of readers are noob dreamers doesnt really make sense to me, and thats my opinion.
I guess at the end of the day, the subject is a touchy one for me as I would have hoped that in some way an upgrade of rod bolts would have saved the hole in my old block when a rod decided to make a quick exit (for what ever reason)
Now that's a good question you should be asking your peers on this forum and any other forum you might post on. I do believe that in the past, this was never a concern on this forum until recently, which is why I'm doing my part to put an end to yet another rumor about this motor to rest on NICO.niscort wrote:Why does no one take the time and actually measure their own rod bolts, get on the phone and get first hand information from the source?)
Possibly because he just wants to. It's his preference, but you still are entitled to your opinion as I'm sure this member is capable of speaking for himself. Nobody's putting a gun to any of your heads and saying don't do this and don't do that, but this is okay and so is that. Let's just call it a fair warning and an honest attempt to stop a rumor that just haven't proven to be true. But on that same quote of yours, I have never broken a timing belt. If they do break, it's more than likely an installer created problem having the belt entirely too tight or allowing bolts or whatever get inside the timing cover.niscort wrote:On the same note, why waste a fortune on a power enterprise timing belt?
was totally unnecessary. If this stuff don't pertain to you and your perfect world, stay the hell out of the conversation.ca18datsun510 wrote: watch out, free thinking and questioning might get you banned around here.
[sarcasm]honestly, who would want to make there engine better when you can just get by?[/sarcasm]
or watch out, free thinking and questioning might get you banned around here.
SR bolts are bigger as is the whole engine. You can't really use one engine to justify the potential of another. The SR and CA are nothing alike, they share nothing. I think it is possible to support 400hp on an internally stock CA but there would be very little margin for error which is why I never advocate that to new guys. Dee has a lot of past experience and skill that allows him to do it.MeanGreenS13 wrote:i agree, i know hes trying to save the noobs thats why i havent given him any ****, im a noob to the CA but not a nissan noob by any means, if a stock SR can take upwards of 550-600 to the ground with just cams and boltons (enthalpy's car) than the bolts arent the weak point. phil
i took the liberty of asking about 10 other people with BUILT ca's on Zilvia and FA, they all said they tried measuring the bolts and checking with ARP, they had nothing available and a custom set was very pricey. Im not just spouting off **** when i type something like that.niscort wrote:
Ironically this is the trouble with rumour. You have searched 2 other forums for information and now have quoted it here as gospel. Why does no one take the time and actually measure their own rod bolts, get on the phone and get first hand information from the source?
On the same note, why waste a fortune on a power enterprise timing belt? has anyone actually broken a factory belt within its mileage? Arp mains? are these really needed? when do you stop...
I understand the sentiment, but to lock threads and pronounce to the world that the majority of readers are noob dreamers doesnt really make sense to me, and thats my opinion.
I guess at the end of the day, the subject is a touchy one for me as I would have hoped that in some way an upgrade of rod bolts would have saved the hole in my old block when a rod decided to make a quick exit (for what ever reason)
I can't justify spending $135 on a timing belt, but if someone offered it to me, I'll gladly install one on one of my engines.themadscientist wrote:I have never snapped a belt but I change them at 50K. If I had the option I would go with a tougher one though.
if i was really SUPER concerned... id be heading towards the JUN website to order some of their CA18DET rod bolts...niscort wrote:Well, I'm glad we are now having a discussion. It would be a boring world if everyone agreed.
MeanGreenS13... nothing personal, just happened to be info/reasons close on point for choosing one particular part over oem, which noone would pass up on arp rod bolts if they were available and similar cost to oem.
Dee, totally agree there was a reason why the rod parted company.. now people can also understand some possiblities, or things to be aware of in regard to the rod bolts from your reply to me.