still flooding and not sure why

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maxnix
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LYDS wrote: Is it possible a bad computer can be causing this to happen?
A bad ECU will just not let the car start period. It will not flood the engine.


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Lokim
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maxnix wrote:
LYDS wrote: Is it possible a bad computer can be causing this to happen?
A bad ECU will just not let the car start period. It will not flood the engine.
That's not entirely true; If an injector circuit (or multiple injector circuits) are shorted, they could stick open. Also, if the ECU is getting bad readings from the ECT, MAF, O2, IAT, or other sensors it could be running the engine way rich. I would backprobe the ECU terminals to verify the readings at the sensors are the same at the ECU...

maxnix
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LYDS wrote:Is it possible a bad computer can be causing this to happen?
maxnix wrote:A bad ECU will just not let the car start period. It will not flood the engine.
Lokim wrote:That's not entirely true; If an injector circuit (or multiple injector circuits) are shorted, they could stick open.
If it could indeed short to power the injector open (never has been reported), the current draw would be most notable and would probably melt the injector coil in a few minutes.

LYDS
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hmmmmm... alot to ponder


I think I am at the point I need to stop trying to figure it out and take it to the shop to see if they can figure it out

thank you so much for all of your help will surely keep you posted

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Lokim
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Betcha it's something dumb we've all overlooked. If so, at least it oughta be cheap! :)

LYDS
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When the problem started it read a code for the cam sensor, we removed the cam sensor and ran tests on it and the readings were correct but the cap had a crack in it. We sealed the crack in the cap and figured when the problem started it was raining and possibly water got in. We re-installed cam sensor and started car and the code was gone.

Is it possible that something could have shorted in the cam sensor and would the cam sensor control the fuel injection in any way???

We have tried the issue was the injectors due to the code being gone but have never really driven the car since this issue has started and car only runs in drive way for 10 minutes at a time when checking it.

The car can be started if you pull the fuel pump fuse and then re-install once the car is running. The engine doesn't miss but is running very rich. Also there is definitely gas getting into the oil, so we dont run it for long.

***Our thoughts are the same as Lokim above***


Any further thoughts????

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Q451990
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I'm pretty sure the CAS is used in one of the diagnostics to test injector operation - remove it and spin to listen for clicking at the injectors? If that's the case then I think it could certainly have something to do with it.

Heath

maxnix
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I don't even think fuel pressure regulator failure can cause it to run that rich. I still say the failure is in the fuel rails.

If you go to an Infiniti tech, flatbed, never tow! Unless you want to replace the transmission also.

LYDS
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My dad stated he tried to spin the CAS and thinks one of the injectors fired and heard a loud noise. We will try it again.

What else can be the failure in the fuel rails if there is no leak?

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Q451990
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The only failure can be a leaking lower o-ring (common) or an injector that is stuck open (rare).

Heath

maxnix
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LYDS wrote: What else can be the failure in the fuel rails if there is no leak?
You seem to fail to understand that there is a leak! No "if" about it!

LYDS
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that has been checked and tested several times already both the lower o rings and injectors

maxnix
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LYDS wrote:that has been checked and tested several times already both the lower o rings and injectors
Please describe the "testing" method.

LYDS
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My car has been towed to the auto shop and has been there going on two weeks and still waiting on a diagnosis

maxnix
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I'd be guessing it is the wrong shop if they are stumped. Did you take it to Jerry Tuckers?

LYDS
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Okay so I finally took the car to a shop and just picked it up on Friday. They found one of the newly replaced fuel injectors was defective and replaced again, replaced coolant temp sensor and did an oil change to remove the fuel enriched oil. The car is running great now, and no longer running rich. I took the car to get smog check and the car failed the emissions and may need to replace the catalytic converter now. AUGGHHHHH!!!!!

One more step and hopefully the last and this car AKA the Beast will be up and running 100%

Thanks again for all of your help

maxnix
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Probably just an O2 sensor or two. Always best to replace in pairs so the duty cycles match.

So where did you get the fuel injectors and were they new?
Last edited by maxnix on Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Lokim
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I remember someone mentioning the coolant temp sensor early in this thread...

LYDS
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Thank you all for your help, the car went to the shop and they found another defective injector which we just replaced and a gasket missing. Now the car starts and runs almost perfectly. There is still a slight mis but nothing to noticable.

When I took the car out of the shop I took it to get it smogged and it failed. A few days later the check engine light came on but does not stay on. When I drive for 20-30 minutes the light will come on and go off once the car is shut off and will not come back on until I drive again for 30 minutes.

I took the car back to the shop and they told me it is possible the catalytic convertors are bad and there are 4 but they are not sure which one is bad and believe it was caused by the rich running of the car prior.

Any insight?

maxnix
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Check the duty cycle of the O2 sensors on a scope.

And it appears you need to find a shop that knows the VH45DE a little better.

The best bet would be All World Imports (Ex Jerry Tuckers) in SD. BadQ45t has a tech in LA, so you might want to search his posts.

LYDS
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awesome thanks again for the advise. When I took the car to the shop locally I had asked if they had the computer to check the Infiniti codes and they said they did, I specifically told them Nissan and Infiniti had their own tool and not OBDI or OBDII and they said yes. When I took the car back due to the check engine light they said they could not read the code. Of course they did not have the proper tools. Still no luck in figuring out what is causing it not to pass smog, but will surely try the O2 sensors. But I lovvvvvve my car!!! I will check BadQ45t posts for tech in LA which is closer than SD, thanks for the heads up.

keep in touch

maxnix
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Do that as they have a Consult I as they are a Z shop. that does not mean they have the G50 cards for the Consult I.

Best bet is to plan a trip to All Imports and get a true and accurate picture.

Part of reading the past posts on this board and studying the FSM is being able to ask the correct questions of shop technicians. An astute owner has to know more about the G50 than any non-specialist.

LYDS
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thanks again, these posts are surely helping me to learn more about my car and how to take care of it. Being a female I have never known so much about a car but I am surely loving it.


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