Steering lock module

Forum for Infiniti M37, M56 M35h Hybrid and Q70 owners.
xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

I have a 2011Infiniti M37x with a faulty steering lock module If was to replace it what are my options can it be replaced with OEM and does it have to be programmed to the car or is there a alternate solution. I've seen something about a bypass module another member was telling me about as well thank you.


User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

I just checked the WD's and your ESCL pinout looks to be the same as the ESCL's that were recalled on the '09~'10 Maxes and Alties. If so, one of these "lock emulators" should work for you:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353420504516

Yoda's Master
Posts: 439
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:26 pm
Car: 2012 M56
2009 370z
Location: Rock in the middle of nowhere

Post


xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Sun Aug 21, 2022 8:12 am
I just checked the WD's and your ESCL pinout looks to be the same as the ESCL's that were recalled on the '09~'10 Maxes and Alties. If so, one of these "lock emulators" should work for you:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353420504516
thank you for reply so this item would be plug and play? or it has to be programmed in

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

No programming for ESCL's. In fact, we always keep a couple of discarded-but-working ESCL's in the tool room for no-start gen4 Alties and gen7 Maxes with the dreaded yellow key. That way we can temporarily plug in a good unit and drive it into the shop instead of towing it.

xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

thank you for the information

xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:46 am
No programming for ESCL's. In fact, we always keep a couple of discarded-but-working ESCL's in the tool room for no-start gen4 Alties and gen7 Maxes with the dreaded yellow key. That way we can temporarily plug in a good unit and drive it into the shop instead of towing it.
Thanks for the information super helpful so my best bet is to buy that emulator plug that in and see what happens , would I be able to remove the oem module as it sits now or is it still locked because I can't get into acc mode

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

The car should start as soon as you plug in the emulator, but if the wheel is mechanically locked then the old ESCL will have to be removed. If it isn't locked then you can just leave it alone.

xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

if the steering wheel is locked can the escl still be removed?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Yep, but the screws are security types with breakaway heads. You have to remove them by tapping with a hammer and sharp punch until they turn slightly, then they'll usually spin out with your fingers.

Yoda's Master
Posts: 439
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:26 pm
Car: 2012 M56
2009 370z
Location: Rock in the middle of nowhere

Post

Just use a pair of big pliers. The kind with teeth and unscrew it. It's not tighten too much.

Yoda's Master
Posts: 439
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:26 pm
Car: 2012 M56
2009 370z
Location: Rock in the middle of nowhere

Post

Idk if you have the actual lock or not. If you have the actual lock, then it's a lot cheaper to just break it open and fully retract the mechanism and pull the fuse

xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

the lock module is in a grey housing I tried tapping with a hammer to see if it would turn the gear but nothing happened, should i just go ahead and buy the emulator in the description or a used module for the emulator it says key fob has to be programmed again is that true? thank you everyone for the help i hate having my M parked up

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

xclusivestylez wrote:
Tue Aug 23, 2022 8:59 am
should i just go ahead and buy the emulator in the description or a used module for the emulator it says key fob has to be programmed again is that true?
No, that's China-vendor misinformation. The ESCL is plug-and-play and so are the emulators. Yoda is correct too, if you want to cut the unit open you can either:
1) remove the circuit board and discard the mechanism, then tape the two pushbuttons in the down position and plug the board back in, or
2) keep the mechanism but manually retract the gear, then pull the fuse out.

Yoda's Master
Posts: 439
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:26 pm
Car: 2012 M56
2009 370z
Location: Rock in the middle of nowhere

Post

take a picture and show us what yours looks like.
here's the ghetto fix on my z

Image

Image

xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

Update guys I purchased the emulator I should receive it by Monday hope that starts it up and I have no other serious problems then I’ll tackle taking out the old ESCL out
Attachments
2D8B5B4F-8010-40E9-A44D-BF2522FED8DF.jpeg
2D8B5B4F-8010-40E9-A44D-BF2522FED8DF.jpeg (72.85 KiB) Viewed 3832 times

xclusivestylez
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Car: 2011 Infiniti M37x

Post

Plugged in the emulator today and nothing happened it still says warning key system and the alarm light flashes.

Yoda's Master
Posts: 439
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:26 pm
Car: 2012 M56
2009 370z
Location: Rock in the middle of nowhere

Post

Well, I did tell you to take a picture earlier before you bought it, but you took it after you already purchased. It looks like your car already got the emulator fix so I had my fingers crossed for you.

Post pictures a video of what happens when you try to start. How you disconnected the battery before you unplugged the emulator.

Johnx
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2024 1:19 pm
Car: 2009 Nissan Altima S 4DR

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Tue Aug 23, 2022 9:57 am
xclusivestylez wrote:
Tue Aug 23, 2022 8:59 am
should i just go ahead and buy the emulator in the description or a used module for the emulator it says key fob has to be programmed again is that true?
No, that's China-vendor misinformation. The ESCL is plug-and-play and so are the emulators. Yoda is correct too, if you want to cut the unit open you can either:
1) remove the circuit board and discard the mechanism, then tape the two pushbuttons in the down position and plug the board back in, or
2) keep the mechanism but manually retract the gear, then pull the fuse out.
Hi, thank you for the information, my car has the same problem right now, so basically after I unplugged and removed the old metal case module, then plug the plastic case emulator, it will allow me to start the car? Just read something that need to disconnect the battery wire? Not sure if this is true, would you please shed some light here? Thanks.

Johnx
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2024 1:19 pm
Car: 2009 Nissan Altima S 4DR

Post

:inoutgay:
Yoda's Master wrote:
Tue Aug 30, 2022 8:24 am
Well, I did tell you to take a picture earlier before you bought it, but you took it after you already purchased. It looks like your car already got the emulator fix so I had my fingers crossed for you.

Post pictures a video of what happens when you try to start. How you disconnected the battery before you unplugged the emulator.
Hi, quick question, the battery has to be disconnected after removing the old module and before plug the emulator? Is this correct? Thanks.

Johnx
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2024 1:19 pm
Car: 2009 Nissan Altima S 4DR

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Tue Aug 23, 2022 9:57 am
xclusivestylez wrote:
Tue Aug 23, 2022 8:59 am
should i just go ahead and buy the emulator in the description or a used module for the emulator it says key fob has to be programmed again is that true?
No, that's China-vendor misinformation. The ESCL is plug-and-play and so are the emulators. Yoda is correct too, if you want to cut the unit open you can either:
1) remove the circuit board and discard the mechanism, then tape the two pushbuttons in the down position and plug the board back in, or
2) keep the mechanism but manually retract the gear, then pull the fuse out.
Hi, thanks for the information, just wondering do I have to disconnect the battery before plug emulator, or simply remove the old module and plug the new one then start the car? Would you please shed some light? Thanks.

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

You can just plug it in. Like I mentioned earlier, we keep "known working" scrap units in the toolroom as a means to get cars with dead ESCL's started and into the shop. We've never had any issues with simply swapping the plug.

stephensatt
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2024 6:14 pm
Car: 2008 Infiniti G37

Post

I have the same issue on my 2008 Infiniti G37. The car started just being dead, but the remote would unlock the doors. When you are in the car, the amber key light on the tach just stays lit, and it doesn't see the keyfob, and the security light on the speedometer occasionally blinks. Car is dead other than that.

Originally a couple of weeks ago when it did this, I tried to bang on the module with a hammer and that didn't work. I then dropped the steering column and pulled the lock module box off and I pushed the plunger in, and put it back on , the car fired right up. While the car was running I then went and pulled the 10amp fuse to that lock module on the fuseblock under the hood behind the battery cover. It ran fine like that, no issues for 2 weeks until yesterday, it started to do the exact same thing. This time around I was able to hit the box with a hammer and the car started up and I immediately got it home and put it in the garage.

So I pulled the lock module apart and mine is all metal and has 4 contact switches. 2 small blue switches on a metal paw that attaches to the coil actuator that moves the metal lock pin up and down, basically to sense its position closed or open, and 2 small metal contact switches, the type that ride on a cam, on a white cam wheel that has the worm gear motor hooked to it. I tried like in the videos rotating that cam gear around to make sure all the switches were closed, even pulled the cam gear out also and stuffed foam into the hole to push down the two switches.

The furthest I get, is the car will now turn to the ON position and all the dash , stereo, fuel pump comes on but it won't run the starter. Just sits, same as if putting it on ACC to ON without pushing on the brake.

I have found only one Emulator on Ebay that claims it works on the 2008 Infiniti G37 and its from Turkey. I just got an email back from the guy selling says it does work on my car but $100 w shipping from Turkey, seems like it will take a long time to get it.

All these other emulators that are cheaper, the black ones, look like they are from China all say they are for Nissan 07-11 Altima 09-10 Maxima 2.5l 3.5L or Nissan part # 48700-9N00B

I cannot find a part # but on Ebay mine is shown to have the # 48700JK000. This is the ebay link to my module and what it looks like.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155961587081?c ... Lucgvr20nU

Does anyone know if the emulator will work on the 2008 G37 , thats the same engine as the 370, 3.7l v6? Its the same plug looks like. Maybe someone has a link to one they know works for Infiniti G37 Coupe or can recommend one? Thanks!

Also if I were to just buy a used lock module, do they have to be programmed by the dealer or a locksmith , or all of them are just a swappable part that doesn't need programming?

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

Chances are the cheap emulators will work, a lot of the ESCL's differ mechanically but the control boards are identical. Since you've had it apart, taping the two pushbutton switches securely into the "pushed" position will usually be a permanent fix. Not all of them have cam contacts, and the ones I know about don't pay any attention to them so long as both pushbuttons show the gear "bottomed".

stephensatt
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2024 6:14 pm
Car: 2008 Infiniti G37

Post

I would order the emulator right now just to see. My main concern is does it need programming , does trying different ones or an emulator "lock me out" somehow. I am trying to keep from getting ripped off at the dealer or by a locksmith because I need someone to program this thing. Thats what I want to know, is doing this work gonna mess with the computer? Here are some pictures of mine and it looks different from all the videos. Notice there are 4 switches, all of them have an aqua blue color to them. 2 are mounted vertically on the plunger solenoid, so that measures if the plunger is in or not. If I let go of the spring as you see me pulling it back, letting go of the spring is the position if its retracted and ready to start, which slams the paw down on the two microswitches , its spring loaded to close.
The other 2 switches are on the cam gear, and you can see them in the pic, has two small metal tabs sticking into the metal that get depressed when the cam turns. Funny however, the lobe on that cam does not appear to depress both at the same time. It looks to be 1 of the other, or none, so that might be, LOCK - ACC - ON. Someone emailed me back from the emulator makers and I think its from China and said it won't work for mine.
Attachments
IMG_20240126_resize1.jpg
IMG_20240126_resize.jpg

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

I'd try popping the controller board and taping the pushbuttons down. If that doesn't work, then maybe worry about an emulator.

stephensatt
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2024 6:14 pm
Car: 2008 Infiniti G37

Post

I could not fix the lock module. No matter how I clocked the wheel, or what microswitches I pressed down I could only get it to activate the ignition, everything including the fuel pump, but it won't run the starter. I ordered the emulater from here. I hope it works. I talked with their tech support but they don't know. Not one person I have talked to knows if any of these work for Infiniti. I called the dealer and the lock module I have, has not be deprecated or replaced with an upgraded model and that steering lock module is $1100.

https://www.uhs-hardware.com/products/2 ... g-and-play

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

I'm pretty sure the ESCL shouldn't be interfering with cranking alone. It doesn't on Nissans. If the ignition powers up normally and there's no security lamp, you need to be checking things like your brake lights, IPDM starter relays, and the starter itself. It's very doubtful the ESCL is responsible for a power-but-no-crank.

stephensatt
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2024 6:14 pm
Car: 2008 Infiniti G37

Post

I also am not totally convinced this is it. At first this all started with me walking out and the amber keyfob key light was on the tach, and the red security light blinks occasionally on the speedo, and it just says LOCK on the starter button. Keyfobs unlock doors, but thats it, car is dead otherwise, which is the classic symptom of the ESCL module going bad.

I did the research and determined it was that lock module. I removed it and retracted it, put it back and the car cranked right up and I removed the 10amp fuse to that lock motor.

It ran fine like that for 2 weeks. Then in the morning I go to crank it, and it does what its doing now one time. I hit that box with a hammer and it cranks up after that. I did that one more time by the end of the day and immediately put it in the garage because its on a hill and hard to push up into with dead cars. So at that point its intermittent, why would it NOT be that lock motor, maybe the cam moved I think?

I had put back that lock module using 13mm bolts and didn't tighten it too tight just in case this happened again, so it was easy to take it off this time without having to remove the column. I removed the bottom cover and thats it. Took out the bolts, module comes right off.

Took the lock module apart, turned the plastic cam around to the ON position, made sure all 4 switches are pressed down, 2 on the cam and 2 on the bolt, and then the car works like normal , goes to ON, everything comes on, fuel pump, you here the priming under the hood, the clicking right before start, etc, like its gonna start, but does not run the starter. I have confirmed today that if I do not press down all those switches, it just does what it did before and says LOCK on the start button, so I am on the right track with those little micro-switches I think.

The starter is a new Hitachi starter from Rockauto and that was installed 20k miles ago. The battery is brand spanking new, 1 month old. Terminals, everything very clean. I keep my G in good shape.

So I did in fact start to look at the fuses on the positive terminal and am starting to think maybe if is sending the START signal, something else is bad and it just happens to burn out about the same time. You got a link or anything about checking those relays. I have never had to check any relays on this car. So IPDM, and do you know where to set the probe to check if its sending the start signal? Thanks.

User avatar
VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8291
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

Post

You can find the wiring diagram for your starting system on STR-9 here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FSTR.pdf
...and the layout for the IPDM on PG-93 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 8%2FPG.pdf
Like most Nissan I-Key setups, there are two relays in series, the Starter Relay controlled by the BCM and the Starter Control Relay controlled by the IPDM. Both devices need to agree and both relays need to be on for cranking to occur. Only the Starter Control Relay is accessible, the Starter Relay is buried inside the IPDM. However, before any of that, check your brake lamps. Nothing with an I-Key will crank if the brake pedal switch is bad or the brake light fuse is blown.


Return to “Infiniti M37, M56, M35h Hybrid and Q70 Forum”