Starting Swap, Would like advice *searched multiple forums*

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
User avatar
[email protected]
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 4:51 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Contact:

Post

Hey everyone i have been reading through the forums and am starting to feel more and more like i want to do a RB26DETT vs an SR20DET swap. I checked http://www.jazzproparts.com and mickenny motorsports and one thing i cant find anywhere is whether one,

1. can an RB26DETT can fit into a 93 240SX without just major custom ****? 2. which version of the RB26DETT should i buy...R32, R33, R34 or does it matter? 3. I guess the last question is, do i absolutely have to get the RB25DET GT-S transmission because jazzproparts has an RB26DETT GT-R motor with an RB25DET GT-s transmission for 4200.00 or can i use the AWD RB26DETT transmission which for some reason is 800.00 dollars cheaper together?

Sorry for the bombardment of questions but these 3 were the only ones i could not find concrete answers to. I probably suck at searching too


User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

Sorry but you did not search very well at all. Oh well.
[email protected] wrote:1. can an RB26DETT can fit into a 93 240SX without just major custom ****?
Depends on what you call major. In relation to an SR swap, yes, it will require custom ****.
[email protected] wrote:2. which version of the RB26DETT should i buy...R32, R33, R34 or does it matter?
I don't think it matters but if you are springing for an RB26, might as well get the R34.
[email protected] wrote:3. I guess the last question is, do i absolutely have to get the RB25DET GT-S transmission because jazzproparts has an RB26DETT GT-R motor with an RB25DET GT-s transmission for 4200.00 or can i use the AWD RB26DETT transmission which for some reason is 800.00 dollars cheaper together?
Unless you want to pay Full-Race for an AWD conversion, then yes, you must use the GT-S transmission. The reason it is 800 bucks cheaper is because you cannot use it (in most cases) and most people discard it.
[email protected] wrote:I probably suck at searching too


Read the stickies. They are there for a reason. zerothread/185294

User avatar
DJButton
Moderator
Posts: 4493
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 6:38 pm
Car: 2010 Nissan 240sx
Location: New Hampshire, USA

Post

EDIT: on second though, read the stickies top of page^^ and what he said. Very well discussed topic here.

#1. Not sure what you mean by major custom, but nothing needs to be cut from engine bay or chassis, need mounts, RB25 custom oil pan to clear x-member and maybe a little firewall tapping depending on how it fits. Turbo's can be a pain to say the least not much room over there, but nothing real huge.#2. Depends on how deep your pockets are, they cost more the newer they are, as to be excpected.#3. You really can't mod the AWD transmission to work, sorry, it's Rb25 transmission or nothing pretty much.

If you're looking for simplicity then come no closer and go pick up an SR20, I'm almost done swapping and RB20 right now, certainly the easier of RB swaps and I'm nearly 4k into it already so get prepared to spend.

Hope that helps a little bit!

User avatar
[email protected]
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 4:51 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX
Contact:

Post

one last thing, can i modify an s13 gauge cluster or do i have to use an RB26 gauge cluster?

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

Did you read the sticky?
Bronze MFP in the sticky wrote:also the stock tach can work, but you have to take apart the cluster and adjust the potentiometer on the back of the tach. you also need an aftermarket tach or something that reads correctly to calibrate your stock tach to.custom thottle cable is requred, but easy to make from parts from a northern hydraulic store or someplace similar.
lucky7 also in the sticky wrote:tach recalibration?http://lsauto.com/products.asp



i sent mine in to them. ill let people know how it turns out when it fires up.
Kansei240sx, you guessed it, sticky wrote:Tach Recalibration.

1. Pull Cluster2. Remove Backin and Clear plastic cover for the gauge.3. Take a sharpie and mark where the needle sits on the gauge face so when you're pulling the needles off you'll know where it sits so its not screwed up when you put them back on, you can also mark the spot it sits on. 4. Remove the gauge faces.5. Where the tachometer face is... there is a variable resistor that you can stick a screwdriver in. 6. Ussually you turn it all the way to the left.7. Once you've done that, do this entire process in reverse order.

Now since all motors are a little different and so are the electrical outputs, you might have to pull it back out, an then turn it a litte more right and a little more right, to get it perfect. Just keep doing it untill you're satisfied or if you have an SAFC it makes it alot easier to calibrate.

When using the sharpie on your gauge cluster, to get the stuff off, all you need it some axe body spray, or some red zone body spray. Apply it to some cloth and dab it onto the area that the sharpie has been applied to and it will either slowly or pretty much instantly come off.

If i left out anything or you're still confused quote and reply to this.
Granted, these are probably for DOHC speedos only but you have a 1993 so the info should apply. Time to go back to SR. I don't even know what I'm doing here.


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”