Starting my Knock Sensor replacement today......

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RobertsnewQ
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I didn't do mine, but it looked very doable. Long 1/4 drive extension and wobbly socket.


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PoorManQ45
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It's impossible to remove the KS without removing the Y pipe hoses. It *might* be possible to do it with all the runners off, but I doubt they went through the trouble of doing that.

Oh, I was able to remove the "Y" Without cutting the hoses too.

Note, I'm the person that did the whole job for $50

Meaux
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How the heck do you get an accurate torque on the KS without removing the "Y" pipe?

I'm gonna try and do somemore today...

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elwesso
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The bottom line is you gotta remoe the Y pipe to replace the hose on there anyway, so in most peoples cases if your reaplcing the hoses and KS at the same time it makes no difference.

Meaux
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Well I got the "Y" pipe off with hoses, didn't need to cut anything, then the KS's, and my Rt. side sensor harness had been chewed completely in half, rodent no doubt. Both KS's were cracked...Must have happened when I didn't drive it for a couple months...During the winter when the Porsche 968 dosen't need A/C...Cleaning up the valley now and will start tomorrow on re-assembly.........and making a list for gaskets and hoses.

Ya think a local parts house would have the "Y" hoses? I'd hate to wait till next week sometime for those...

maxnix
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Meaux wrote:Ya think a local parts house would have the "Y" hoses? I'd hate to wait till next week sometime for those...
No way, call Joe today!

Why one always starts with more parts than one needs as Joe will take back unopened parts.

Meaux
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Well, called Joe on Friday, and the hoses/gaskets came in today so I installed the knock sensors and harness, then the bypass hoses etc. Must have vacuumed a bag of sand out of the valley...So I got that part buttoned up. Not that much trouble at all, thank goodness for the KY...works with all kinds of hoses! :-)

In the AM I'll clean the Idle Control valve and start on the Intake runners...Hopefully I'll have this thing running on Friday...depends on the weather...


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elwesso
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Meaux wrote:Well, called Joe on Friday, and the hoses/gaskets came in today so I installed the knock sensors and harness, then the bypass hoses etc. Must have vacuumed a bag of sand out of the valley...So I got that part buttoned up. Not that much trouble at all, thank goodness for the KY...works with all kinds of hoses! :-)

In the AM I'll clean the Idle Control valve and start on the Intake runners...Hopefully I'll have this thing running on Friday...depends on the weather...
No honey, I promise, im using it on the car!!!

Meaux
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LOL!

Meaux
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Starting on lower intake runners, and maybe this is a dumb question, but what side of the gasket should face up, the "raised" face , or the "indented" face?

Or does it even matter?

Thanks...

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PoorManQ45
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Meaux wrote:Ya think a local parts house would have the "Y" hoses? I'd hate to wait till next week sometime for those...
YES, YES, YES. That's the way to think. I went to the local comercial hose supplier and got the Y hoses for like $3. Note, the hoses I got are designed for marine exhaust applications.
maxnix wrote:No way, call Joe today!
Don't start with that.

I was able to do a COMPLETE under plenum hose job for ~$50. I replaced every hose under there! It took awhile, but I got it all done RIGHT. Now it's back together and has been running strong for about two months.

Wes, IIRC you offered me something if the Q ran for over 100 miles without a problem after the hose job. Well... It's been over 100miles

Meaux
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Allright, so far so good. I got the lower intake runners on w/ fuel rails attached, and today I'll be cleaning the Plenum and mounting that.

Whats the best cleaner to clean that big part with?...I used carb cleaner on the lower runners and that took awhile. I think someone used "Oven Cleaner", but don't remember how that went...

Thanks...

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Meaux, i used some gumout carb cleaner--seemed to work fine. i debated and then decided that it wasn't worth the time to get the whole thing spotless, so i left some brown stains, but everything is smototh and clear.

of course, you could find a shop that could dip the whole thing for you, but remove all the rubber first if you do....might hurt the finish on the infiniti logo--not sure.

anyway see the other post about making sure you alighn the lower and upper runners before doing the final final. you may find it easier to do the alignment without all the spider pipes and hoses--especially the 'fat' one that goes around the #7 runner.


maxnix
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Soaking it in SafetyKleen bath would be best, I would think.

Meaux
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Well, Katrina cut this job off, maybe I'll continue in a few days...Glad I live on top of a hill, only lost power for 7hrs., biggest problem was fueling the generator...

New Orleans...unbelievable...

maxnix
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Glad you and Jeff are OK. Who else is down there? Msscomm?

3Q Jay
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Hey Meaux, keep going!
maxnix wrote:Glad you and Jeff are OK. Who else is down there? Msscomm?
Jehanger in Lafayette [about 50 nw of New Orleans]. has he checked in?

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elwesso
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GQ Jay wrote:Hey Meaux, keep going!

Jehanger in Lafayette [about 50 nw of New Orleans]. has he checked in?
.

msscomm is on the west coast...

Jehangir is down ther ebut hes posted since then i think

Meaux
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Allrighty then, I cleaned the Plenum today and used "Easy-Off" oven cleaner. Sprayed it on inside and out, and let sit for 30seconds, hosed it off. Clean as a whistle...wish I would have used it on the lower runners...Side Note: DO NOT LET THIS STUFF SIT FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME, IT WILL DESRTOY (PIT) ALUMINUM!!!!

Don't ask me how I know...OK, I'll tell ya'll. I sprayed this stuff on a 72' Porsche alloy wheel (expensive) and left it overnight, completely messed up the surface of the wheel. Luckily it was the spare wheel that I'll sand down and paint black.

Installing Plenum tomorrow....

DAEDALUS
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Meaux wrote:DO NOT LET THIS STUFF SIT FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME, IT WILL DESRTOY (PIT) ALUMINUM!!!!
I was wondering about that. Was planning to use in on some heads. 30 seconds, eh? I'll give it a test spray.

Meaux
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30 secs. or less, it's allmost immediate. I wouldn't let it dry...I'll have to get another can for the T-Body...

Meaux
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OK, finished the Plenum Removal and KS replacement.

Car started up as soon as it got enough fuel.

Idle at 850 cold

Idle didn't change after warmup....so I unplugged and adjusted the IAC to 650rpm, plug it back in...

Turn on A/C and it dosen't compensate for compressor load

rev to 2000and on deceleration allmost dies, thenpulls back up to 500rpm.

I checked the codes and I get a "21".......Ignition Signal Circuit.....Everything seems to be plugged in.......

The car has be sitting for a over a month w/battery disconnected.....At least I didn't get a KS code!

I'm tired, and I'm gonna crack open a 12pk. and look at it tomorrow....
Modified by Meaux at 3:59 PM 9/8/2005

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PoorManQ45
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I used to have that almost stalling problem.

It was a combination of the MAF, and faulty fuel unit

DAEDALUS
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...neither of which leads to a code 21.Are you certain 21 was the only code given? So common to get a CAS error (11) along with ignition signal. The troubleshooter for code 21 consists of checking various continuities, so check your wiring once more. Does the engine run balanced, i.e., not missing any cylinders?

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DAE, I'm gettin 2 long blinks, a pause, and 1 short blink. It keeps repeating.

The car's electricial system functioned OK, meaning that when cold, Idle would be normally high and when warm would go down, and it would compensate for A/C, now it dosen't do either...seems to be running on all 8...but not as smooth as I expected it should...but not bad (no shakes or rough running) The tank is full of premeum gasoline...filled up before I started the KS work...

I reckon I need to start checkin wires at the ECM...and looking for something unplugged...

I did use a little dielectric on all the plugs...could that stuff be causing me problems?

maxnix
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Meaux wrote:I did use a little dielectric on all the plugs...could that stuff be causing me problems?
Not unless you put it on the gaps. Check your connections rigorously.

Meaux
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OK, what are "gaps", is that the female side?

Hope you're not gonna tell me the stuff dosen't go on the contacts!!!! Yikes!!!

I've never had a problem with this stuff before...

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elwesso
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Yes, im bored so I made this graphic illustration

If it runs smooth but idles funky thats kinda strange.. From all the way in, how many turns is the IAC screw turned out.?

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PoorManQ45
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Idles rough, runs smooth.

I've had that problem before in a crown victoria. The problem was that it was running on 4 cylinders I'm serious.

Meaux
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Heck, I backed out the IAC screw about 3 1/2 turns to set the ldle higher, and went around the block for a "testdrive". The stumble is gone, she shifts smooth, I'm sure the tires have flat spots (from sittin) causing a funny ride.

Now Im gonna try to pull the idle down...I'll check and see how many turns I get going "in". Shouldn't it be about 3-5 turns out?

Whats a quick way to "clear the codes"? Last night I had the MAF unplugged and forgot so when I raised the windows, I started the car up, now I have codes 12 and 21...

I'm feeling alot better after the "testdrive"...But I need to clear that dang ECU....


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