Starting Engine Swap on 2001 Pathfinder

[Blindaviator]

The engine in my 2001 has been getting steadily worse as the temp gets higher so I decided to do an engine swap.

Ok so today I picked up an engine from a local salvage yard for a total of $876 (includes $75 core and taxes) which includes a 90 day warranty. They didn't know the mileage of the donor but doing a check of the VIN shows it had 57k miles in 2008 and no updates after that. Then it was listed as salvage accident in like 2012. So I am guessing the mileage somewhere around 100k (60k miles in 7 years plus another 4 years gets it around there.)

They tested the compression of all cylinders and all were close to 200 psi. When I first heard that I was weary that a used engine could have really good compression but after looking at the engine I noticed a "rebuilders" tag glued to the freeze plug on the rear side of the left head (warranty void if removed). That tells me either the heads were rebuilt and replaced or the whole engine was rebuilt at some point which is why the compression was so good.

The donor car was a 2001 QX4 which was hit pretty hard in the left front but didn't impact the engine.

So I Decided to do a series of pics to document the swap for others in case they are wanting to do something similar. Today the only thing I have is a pic of the donor vehicle. Tomorrow I will take plenty of pics as I take the donor engine apart to replace all the gaskets I can while it is out.

Have parts to replace:
Upper and lower oil pan gaskets
Rear main seal
valve cover gaskets
Oil cooler O Rings and gaskets
Spark plugs
water control valve
Transfer tube gaskets (the leaky ones on the back of the heads)
Thermostat

Have already replaced these in old engine and will transfer over:
Water pump
fan clutch
radiator

So here is the donor vehicle:

[LeviW]

Same swap started for me today. Daughter with music in ears set cruise at 65+ with transmission in 2nd gear. Rod knocking now. Probably sucked oil pan out before it could recover at high rpm. Anyway, I purchased a motor from a salvage yard and had it shipped to me. It came out of a 2001 Pathfinder, which is what I have. VQ35DE 4x4. Replacement motor supposedly has 91k miles. Got engine ready to come out (I think) unless transmission has to be slid back, which is what Chilton manual says. Some of my wiring connectors on drivers side front of engine are different which has me concerned. Please post what problems you have and I will do the same.

[Blindaviator]

Same swap started for me today. Daughter with music in ears set cruise at 65+ with transmission in 2nd gear. Rod knocking now. Probably sucked oil pan out before it could recover at high rpm. Anyway, I purchased a motor from a salvage yard and had it shipped to me. It came out of a 2001 Pathfinder, which is what I have. VQ35DE 4x4. Replacement motor supposedly has 91k miles. Got engine ready to come out (I think) unless transmission has to be slid back, which is what Chilton manual says. Some of my wiring connectors on drivers side front of engine are different which has me concerned. Please post what problems you have and I will do the same.

Will do. Mine is also the 4x4 and it looks like the QX4 was also since that engine has an oil cooler on it like mine (I believe only the 4x4 models had an oil cooler?)

[Blindaviator]

Ok so some updates. Partially disassembled today and will finish up tomorrow. Then will start to replace all the seals...




Heads look pretty clean inside:

[Blindaviator]

Ok so it is fully disassembled and later today I will start to reassemble. Tomorrow morning the old engine gets removed...

[atraudes]

You're probably already planning on it, but make sure you replace the gaskets on that water pipe running between the heads on the back. They've been known to go out and cause a coolant leak that means having to drop the engine slightly to replace. Tremendous pain in the butt if it happens.

Looks like you're starting with a good base. Good luck to you!

[Blindaviator]

You're probably already planning on it, but make sure you replace the gaskets on that water pipe running between the heads on the back. They've been known to go out and cause a coolant leak that means having to drop the engine slightly to replace. Tremendous pain in the butt if it happens.

Looks like you're starting with a good base. Good luck to you!

Yeah I am replacing those along with every other gasket I can while it's out (and some of the hard to reach coolant hoses.) Upper and lower pan gaskets, Water control valve, thermostat, water pump, rear main seal, front crank shaft seal, oil cooler O rings and base gasket, valve cover (along with the rubber bolt grommets and spark plug tube gaskets)... I wanted to replace the oil pump while it was out but it is like $200 so will wait until I rebuild the old engine to replace...

I found the transfer tube gaskets at Vatozone for a few $ each (look up the thermostat gasket and it shows those gaskets as well)... They are FelPro paper with orange sealing bead on them which is less likely to leak than the metal OEM ones IMHO... I will use a bit of black RTV sealer on them and some blue thread locker on the bolts...

I just went through the PITA of removing the starter (4x4 model) and decided to replace it while it's out... Would rather not have to go through that too many times if possible... Next time it goes out I will pay someone to change it if I have the extra money...

[atraudes]

Ah, you're all over it! I'm jealous, sounds like a blast

I'm a huge fan of getting alternators and starters rebuilt these days. The nice thing is it's usually quite a bit cheaper and you know the starter won't have any fitment issues. I don't know exactly the nature of the problem, but I've heard people report that a new starter started knocking teeth off the flywheel (incorrectly shimmed, I think?). The biggest selling point though is that most starters and alternators on the market are rebuilt anyway, and typically by some crummy factory with low standards.

[EdBwoy]

Are you using power tools? Could you time yourself while pulling the engine, for the sake of it? Hehe

[Blindaviator]

Are you using power tools? Could you time yourself while pulling the engine, for the sake of it? Hehe

If I had to do this start to finish without stopping I could likely pull the engine in about 6-8 hours... It has been one of the more complicated engine pulls I have done (lot of small things to remove)... I have been in no hurry so far taking my time... I work on it for a few hours in the morning and stop around noon (outside in the Texas sun) and then start back up around 6pm to about 9pm when it gets dark...

hehe there is an air compressor there but I haven't used it as of yet... The hardest things I have run into so far is the starter, torque converter bolts and the drivers side motor mount... Most of the bolts have been either so tight needing a 1/2" to break them loose or so hard to reach (upper transmission bolts) that I haven't been able to use the air tools...

The top 2 transmission bolts were a challenge to get loose as the transfer tube and water control valve was really in the way... I ended up finding an adjustable ratchet at Harbor Freight that was thin and long enough to allow me to get a 14mm socket on them to break loose...

You Have to be REALLY careful with the torque converter bolts... If you lose your grip on one it drops down into the bottom of the bell housing without ANY way to reach it... Once I get the engine out I plan on cutting a small "access" hole in the bottom center of the bell housing just in case I drop a bolt when putting it back together... It will also allow me to look up inside to see if the torque converter is seated properly to the crank shaft and adjust it some if not...

The bolts on the bottom of the motor mount (mount to frame) on the drivers side are nearly impossible to reach as the front differential is right under it... The only way I have found to get it loose is take the bolt off the top side where it bolts to the engine bracket... Mine ended up being so tight I couldn't get it loose with a wrench (not enough room for a socket) so I had to end up taking the exhaust manifold off to gain access to the bolts holding the mount to the engine block... You have to take out all the exhaust bolt studs to get the manifold off... Remove all those and the bolts holding the resonator to the exhaust pipe underneath and you can slide the entire thing out through the engine compartment with a little wiggling...

I was to the point of getting the engine hoist up to start pulling it when I found the hoist arm wouldn't reach in far enough to pull it... So I will have to try modifying the hoist to pull it tomorrow... It will be really tight to get it out as the oil pan is only inches from the axle... I will likely have to jack the front of the transmission up as I pull the engine to get it past the axle tube and out past the flex plate...

[EdBwoy]

I have been there too, but mine was a RWD. A lot of small things, and tight quarters especially. Strictly hand tools when I did it too.
Now, that you guys are able to remove the headers is a miracle to me. I did end up jacking my drivetrain around 30 degrees (or whatever it took to bang against the trans tunnel), but there was some creativity involved with my process as you've found out.

Someone was working on that here recently:
2002-pathfinder-engine-removal-t596022.html

Oh, and I dropped a torque converter bolt too. I don't think I had bought my flexible magnetic pickup tool by then yet, but yeah, couldn't even see the dang thing in there.

[LeviW]

My hat is off to mechanics who do this regularly. So many tight spots. I have installed salvaged engine in 2001 LE. Today finishing everything in front of engine. I removed drivers side exh manifold and motor mount bracket, and left motor mount off of passenger side and this made stabbing engine easy for me. These items weren't easy to put back, but didn't take too long. I'm glad I didn't slide transmission back like the manual stated. I remember when you could touch all bolts on an engine.

[EdBwoy]

...I remember when you could touch all bolts on an engine.

Just like the dodo, those days are gone.

I know you mentioned the Chilton manual in your first post, but have you had a chance to check out the Factory Service Manuals hosted by NICOclub? The FSMs are located HERE... although, when it comes to some tasks as we are finding out, our own forum experience might be the way to go.

For people like me without access to a lift, I appreciated that the vehicle is high enough to not only change oil without jacking, but also to go underneath to undo most bolts without having the thing suspended too high on jackstands and jacks.

[Blindaviator]

Ok so I finally got the engine pulled... Had a few issues getting the transmission seperated from the engine... I thought the dowel pin on the passengers side was stuck but after getting the engine out I found out I missed a bolt...

Just as an FYI you don't wanna miss the bolt above the starter where it is almost impossible to see, otherwise this will happen:



I found this small wrench at Harbor freight that allowed me to get the top 2 bolts of the transmission back behind the water control valve:


Looks like I had a few leaks on the rear and someone in the past did a piss poor job of replacing the rear main seal:

[Niti QX4]

How's it coming along?

[Blindaviator]

How's it coming along?

Starting to swap all the components over this morning... Hopefully will have it ready to drop back in by this evening...

[LeviW]

Just completed my Pathfinder engine change. I wish had posted about the bellhousing bolt above the starter, because it got me for a while. Engine cranked right up, sounds good, and no check engine light. I hope I will never have to do it again.

[Blindaviator]

Just completed my Pathfinder engine change. I wish had posted about the bellhousing bolt above the starter, because it got me for a while. Engine cranked right up, sounds good, and no check engine light. I hope I will never have to do it again.

I know the feeling... Already decided before I got the engine out that if there is a next time I will pay someone to do an R&R... The $800 - $1200 will be well worth it...

[Blindaviator]

Was able to get the engine dropped in yesterday without too many issues...

Today I was getting the starter put in and after getting it all installed and tightened down I discovered the main power wire I attached was the ground wire... Had to take everything loose again to reattach the proper wire... Decided to take a break and just replace the power wire... The OEM wire is so short and tight that it is almost impossible to get back on... It was easier dropping the engine back in than putting the starter back in...

[Niti QX4]

So, did it start up okay? It looks like everything went back together very well.

[Blindaviator]

So, did it start up okay? It looks like everything went back together very well.

It took me most of the morning to get the exhaust back together... It was a PITA to get that cat back on the passenger side and I had to put ALL the manifold studs back in for the drivers side and it had to be done while the manifold was in the way...

This evening when it cools down some I will put the top and front of the engine back together... Still have to get the top 2 transmission bolts tightened (the ones behind the water control valve), put the alternator & power steering pump back on, fan / belts / radiator and the intake / injector assy...

Hopefully I will get it done this evening and start it...

[Blindaviator]

Ok so was able to get everything but the intakes and cooling fan / radiator in... Had some hoses and O-Rings that needed to be replaced and that stopped me just as it was getting dark...

I should be able to knock out the last parts in about an hour or two in the morning to finish it off...

[Blindaviator]

Ok so I got it started Thursday... Was a rough start at first (like they all are after major changes)... I was able to take it for a few mile test drive and it cleared up quite a bit afterwards... It had a noise that almost sounded like a rod knocking but the noise was coming from the top side... I am assuming it is likely a sticky valve or cam follower... I added some Sea Foam to the oil to help clean it up and will change it in a few days...

After letting it cool overnight to top the coolant off again I tried starting it and it wouldn't even try to start... It would crank over and I could smell the fuel so I knew it was likely the spark... I pulled a coil and attached a plug to it and it had no spark at all...
When cranking it I noticed the tach gauge was jumping around instead of a smooth rise... So I figured it was maybe the crank or cam sensors... Changed the front crank sensor and didn't help so I started changing the cam sensors (using the ones off the original engine)... changed the passenger side one and as I was changing the top one on drivers side I noticed 2 ground straps right beside it that weren't attached (ground wires for the sensors)... I bolted them down and hooked all the sensors back up and it started right up...

After running it up to temp I checked the codes and I had one for the swirl valve (P1131 I think) and cam sensor bank 2... So I changed the cam sensor on the passenger side back to the original and the front crank sensor back to original but still had the same codes... As I was looking around the engine bay I noticed the top cam sensor on drivers side didn't have the plug attached (not sure if it popped loose or I forgot to attach it)... Plugged it in and the cam code cleared but still had the swirl valve code... Recharged the A/C and let it cool over night...

This morning I cleared all the codes, topped off the coolant some and brought it up to operating temp... It seemed to be running pretty good so I decided to drive it home (doing the work at my brothers house about 15 miles away)... When I got it home I checked codes and it was clear with all the sensors set... I let it set in the drive way while I ran my brother back home... After I got back I checked the ground for leaks and then checked the coolant, both were fine...

Again I checked for codes and found none so I headed into town to get it inspected (registration ended last month) and after dropping it with the inspector he came to me a few minutes later and said it would fail because it had set the swirl valve code again... I will run it a few days and see if the swirl valve settles down and get it inspected... I was going to grab the one off the other engine but seems when they pulled the engine at the salvage yard they broke one of the vacuum lines off...

The noise I was hearing on the top side of the engine is almost gone... So far it is all doing pretty good...

[Niti QX4]

Congratulations! Job well done!!

[Niti QX4]

So how is it doing so far? Sounds like it was getting better and going well....

[Blindaviator]

So how is it doing so far? Sounds like it was getting better and going well....

It is working pretty good so far. I haven't really taken it on any longer runs yet but should soon. It still have a bit of top end noise but nothing I am really concerned about. I picked up an older Camaro years ago that had similar issues and it took about 6 months for it to clear up completely.

Usually the noise is only present when the engine has been driven a bit. It sounds like a knock but it isn't coming from bottom side and it will come and go with revving the engine (a rod knock would be constant at any engine speed.) I am assuming a sticky valve or cam follower.
I had a similar noise when I first picked up this pathfinder back in January and it went away after a while.

I am still getting the P1130 Swirl Control Valve code. I checked the voltage to the solenoid last night and it was a good 12v. I will be looking at the vacuum switch today to see if it is the problem. It seems to me that the swirl valve is working as it doesn't have problems accelerating above 3000 RPM. It may be the vacuum switch incorrectly reporting a failure.

[Niti QX4]

So how it it doing 10 days later? I hope it is going well.

[Blindaviator]

So far it is doing well... It doesn't overheat anymore but I do have a Swirl control valve code that wasn't there before... Will solve it as time goes on...

[rgk]

You might have the vacuum lines around the swirl/VIAS solenoids installed incorrectly. I have had the same code thrown in my 2002 whenever I messed with those lines. It's difficult to get them right, as I haven't found a correct and accurate drawing for putting them back together. Trial and error worked for me.

Have you had a chance to double-check the compression? How is the top end noise?

[Blindaviator]

You might have the vacuum lines around the swirl/VIAS solenoids installed incorrectly. I have had the same code thrown in my 2002 whenever I messed with those lines. It's difficult to get them right, as I haven't found a correct and accurate drawing for putting them back together. Trial and error worked for me.

Have you had a chance to double-check the compression? How is the top end noise?

I double checked the lines and can't find any connected incorrectly or split / cracked...

The top end noise comes and goes but usually after driving it some distance... There is some small bottom end noise when cold starting which could be the oil pump leaking down pressure over night...
I haven't checked the compression as I haven't had a lot of time... The coolant stays full and the engine seems to have good power and idles fine... It all seems good so far...