sr20det wont start cant figure out whats going on..help!

[duffman1278]

Alrite, I had this issue too, here's what you should do.

Take off the valve cover, make sure the pulley is as shown

Now take out the valve cover and make sure the gold link isn't showing at the top as such

If it is, spin the pulley 360 degrees, the cams should appear with the dots as shown, iirc, if they don't spin it again, 360 degree's.

Then after that stick in the CAS as the FSM says so.

[blackmagic]

ok im wondering if it may have jumped a few links cause if the little dots on your picture are were the dots need to be then mine is off bad i rotated the crank multiple times to try and get what you have but have come up sour.

[duffman1278]

Hmm, well you said you didn't have the silver links, so just rotate it until the gold link goes away that the pulley is at TDC like said before, if the dots on the cam are off by alot, than I dunno wtf happened. Hopefully someone can chime in on this

[blackmagic]

is there any way you can circle the dots on your picture cause im not sure if thats them or not i cant realy see them. if its not to much trouble

[duffman1278]

Yea, I'll do it right now and load them in about 10 minutes

[duffman1278]

[blackmagic]

ok so im extreamly tired of working so much and kinda forgot that the indents on the crank are what im supposed to line up not the damn holes lmao......omg dude its finnaly running....im shaking right now and cant think straight you have no idea how long its been sence it ran and now it started right up i need to get ahold of some new bolts and nuts for the valve cover cause they old ones are ****ed up realy bad if you have any or know somone with some let me know i realy need them so i can try to drive it.

[duffman1278]

......omg dude its finnaly running....im shaking right now and cant think straight you have no idea how long its been sence it ran

haha, actually I do know, thats how I felt when my SR would crank and not start and then I finally got it to start.

Congrats though. As for the bolts, just get them from the dealer, I don't have extra's lol

Hopefully mine will run smooth by this wednesday

[blackmagic]

haha yeh man ill let ya know how its all going as soon as i drive it. its going to cost like 90$ from a dealer for the bolts cause i found them on ebay for like 98$ oem nissan ones. damnit man hopfully somone around town has an extra engine or somthin i think i know somone that might have some but i wont see them untill thur. at a meet. hope your cars running good soon

[duffman1278]

Wait wait wait, 90$?!!?! for the valve cover bolts?!?!. Maybe I'm thinking of the wrong ones. The valve cover studs? of those screws that hold down the valve cover? Thesehttp://phase2motorsports.store....html

[corey240]

if u figure out what the problem is email me [email protected], i dont get on here much anymore, as in the computer. iv had the exact same problem for a year now so i converted to hooking up a switch to the fuel pump to start it instead of pulling the fuse all the time, kind of a hidden art now. but good luck, search my name on here and the other forums and see what comes up maybe somthing iv asked about it can help u i have like 12 threads about this, im gona get a different ecu, i changed the temp sensor wires in the harness, my temp gauge also doesnt work so it sucks, gl.

[blackmagic]

i need everything. i need the bolts that go into the head and the nuts/studs i have the little rubber pieces and the medal gaurds but i need everything else

[duffman1278]

Get that stuff now! lol I wanna know how it runs

[blackmagic]

i know man me to im tryin to get ahold of my buddy lee from around here but i dont have his # anymore cause my cell phone is broken. **** man i need this **** if anyone has any let me know.

[blackmagic]

ok so i took her for a drive around the block and i think she has a boost leak cause if i hit throttle hard it shutters and sounds like its gonna turn off. but when i came to pull in my driveway the car shut off when i pushed the clutch in all the way so i started her right up and pulled her into the drive way i do have a crimp thats going from that vaccum line on the coldpipe to i think is the iacv. so i held that crimp straight and reved it up if i dont let off the gas slowly the car will sound like its going to die. could that be a bad fuel pump cause its my stock ka pump? if not that what could it be

[duffman1278]

Yea man, switch that fuel pump out. You're kinda starving the engine of fuel with that pump. Also, I would suggest making a boost leak tester. Their AMAZING! and are easy to use.

[blackmagic]

haha thats funny i was looking at them last night and i went out today and bought the stuff im going to get around to building it soon but i have one problem i thought it sounded like i was running on 3 cyl. so i checked and sure anough my injector isnt firing?? i then searched and found people saying to try switching out coil packs cause somtimes the coilpack can be the culprit and your actually getting fuel its just not firing. well all coilpacks are working correctly. now what the hells going on i used my multitester to the best of my ability and the injector plug is getting 13 volts if thats right idk how to work the tester at all so i just picked a setting and tested it. so i pulled one of my older inectors out off my toolbox one that works and connected it and no clicking at all. whats going on

[duffman1278]

Sounds like a bad injector to me. Try switching an injector to see if another WILL "click" after swapping them

[blackmagic]

thats just the thing i did try another injector and it did the same thing well actually i didnt realy install another injector i just connected it outside of the fuelrail to see if it woud click would it only click if its in fuel?

[blackmagic]

ok never mind with the fuel injector i figured it out and now its running. now i checked the search button and tried to find out if timing would cause the car to buck if i stomp on the gas but no one realy answerd the guy. when i set my timing to the second dot on the left the car goes to like 400 or 500 rpm. so to keep it up to 850rpm i increased timing? should i just mess with the tps to get it to the right rpms? i still need to get around making that boost leak tester also

[duffman1278]

The voltage on the TPS should be set to about .35-.6V according to the FSM. Some people put it at around .45V.

Do this with the engine off, but key all the way.

[Thebigjc]

Can you adjust the Iacv screw to up your idle?

[blackmagic]

omg i have been looking for this thread for 15min. anyways i have an all new problem. when i start my car and go to press the gas it shutters if i press it very slowly after its been running for about a min. and i mean pressing very slowly on the gas it will rev right and when u pas about 3000rpm you can hit the gas as hard as u want. i also have an insane amount of compressure surge im going to go look and see if i can find an old thread talking about why you get compressure surge and how you can fix it. this car is killing me man. could it still be somthing wrong with wiring i know 1 thing for sure next swap i do im going to have somone do my wiring.

[duffman1278]

I'm basically getting the exact same problem. I bought another ECU, and i'll try it out friday and post up what the results were.

[blackmagic]

im thinking mabe somthing in the wiring or somthing. i cant think of anything else im going to dothe boost leak tester i still havnt had a chance im trying to move out and just got a promotion so im working double time now im working on my g/f's s14 and i just dont have time anymore. i looked at wiringspecialties.com and they are charging only 80$ to look at the harness and fix anything that is wrong with it. im tempted to do that as soon as you get your new ecu let me know whats going on. the thing that makes me mad is i just bought another ecu cause with the faulty wiring i fried my first one up. i dont wanna buy a third one

[blackmagic]

ok so some updates i found i had a huge boost leak it would leak out the cold pipe by the tb even at 4lbs of boost same at the hot pipe so i fixed the cold pipe and im waiting on a new 90 degree silicone hose and a 45 degree hose to come in so i can finnish my hot pipe. i have a walbro pump coming in prolly tomarrow and i will be getting a safcII for valentines day from my g/f *best g/f u could have loves s14's and owns one nice s14 and knows her **** just not the best at wrenchin* anyways i was just wondering duffman did u ever get that ecu and figure out what the problem was im going outside here in about 10min to pull my valve cover off and reset the timing cause im not sure if i ****ed it up being my timing gun isnt accurate so ill just set it to fsm setting. i was wondering cause i bought some injectors when i thought i had a bad one and turned out it wasnt bad i found out cause i installed 2 of the new ones and it still had same prob. figured out it was wiring.anyways my question is on the 2 new injectors the tip had 4 prong type things and people say its realy just to keep good idle well on 1 of the there are like 2 prongs broken off do u think that might have somthing to do with the car almost dieing when i try to give it gas?

[duffman1278]

For your intercooler piping, I would suggest getting t-bolt clamps like the ones shown in the pic. I picked up a few for my intercooler piping, and their AWSOME! They close the entire silicone hose.

Also, I did end up fixing my problem, and what happened was I shorted out my 2nd injector signal on the ECU. I'm now running normal vacuum, and not misfiring or anything.

I'm not really sure what you mean by the injector issue. 4 prong?? Are these the prongs you're talking about?

[blackmagic]

no i bought some injectors from this guy that said they were outa a blacktop and he said the tips on the injectors where the fuel comes out are diffrent the the tip on the redtop the old ones i have are just a solid piece of plastic on the tip and the new ones have like 4 plastic prongs going out into the center of the injector where the fuel sprays out ill try to get pix of it and get them on here. so u had to get a new ecu. do u know y you shorted out the second injector signal on the ecu? o and yeh i have about 4 of the t-bolt clamps from the fmic kit i bought but they were realy cheap pieces and only close on my 3inch cold pipe. the reason it was leaking was i have exaust piping as intercooler piping as of right now im just trying to get it running right and then im going to a shop and have them make some alum. pipings for me. but yeh the exaust piping isnt bent exactly right so the straight silicone couplers i have are kinda bent to so they can reach the piping. i bought a 45 and 90 degree silicone so it will line up perfect i might actually keep running my hot pipe as exaust piping.

[duffman1278]

The tips that you're talking about should't really matter than. Mine are 4 holes.

The reason I shorted out the ECU injector #2 spot was because I had the 2 injector wires touching when I extended them and I guess I forgot to tape them each separately.

[blackmagic]

how can u tell your ecu got fried is it black in there cause my first one had a black spot where it got fried and now im wondering cause i had 1 of the injectors hooked up wrong in the wiring if i shorted it out. ill check tomarrow and get back to yall i had today off but i was putting my g/fs struts/springs and steering wheel on her s14. o but yeh my injector has the 4 holes also ill get pix up as soon as i get a chance.