sr20det oil pan what do you guys think?

[0wn3r]

im not freaking buying the stupid a$$ oil pan!!!! do you not get it??? i dont freaking need one right now!! and i haven't been shy to drop any money in my motor! i rebuilt it top to bottom, every seal and gasket is brand new and i replaced every bolt/nut with aether stainless or a high grade bolt. so piss off

hey, calm down man... cody's only stating his opinions about the pan and not you.

back to my question though, how much oil do you put in your stock SR20 oil pan?

[david200095367]

hey, calm down man... cody's only stating his opinions about the pan and not you.

back to my question though, how much oil do you put in your stock SR20 oil pan?

like 3.8 quarts.

[david200095367]

im not freaking buying the stupid a$$ oil pan!!!! do you not get it??? i dont freaking need one right now!! and i haven't been shy to drop any money in my motor! i rebuilt it top to bottom, every seal and gasket is brand new and i replaced every bolt/nut with aether stainless or a high grade bolt. so piss off

[0wn3r]

like 3.8 quarts.

could you tell me what the etched number on your dipstick is? not a trick question, just making sure mine is the same

[Thoughtful_One]

I agree with Cody.

Those eBay pans are notorious for leaking and having bolt holes not lining up correctly.

[codyace]

im not freaking buying the stupid a$$ oil pan!!!! do you not get it??? i dont freaking need one right now!! and i haven't been shy to drop any money in my motor! i rebuilt it top to bottom, every seal and gasket is brand new and i replaced every bolt/nut with aether stainless or a high grade bolt. so piss off

LOL I'll let the confused be confused. Laugh at me all you guys want, I was doing what you're doing 3 or 4s ago with the RWD stuff. You'll see the light eventually.

could you tell me what the etched number on your dipstick is? not a trick question, just making sure mine is the same

52F00

As far as oil, I dump 4 in all the time. With the Greddy pan, all 5.

[Hijacker]

Ink, you need to calm down a bit. You're getting defensive over nothing.

Also, I totally back up Cody's point of view on all this. The old addage, you gotta pay to play always comes to mind when I talk about parts shopping for cars. My motor, in reality, should have been about $3,500 to build with the parts I used, but I wheeled and dealed and took advantage of discounts from friends. I contemplated using a Freddy oil pan for all of 5 minutes thinking I could just have the mating surface decked straight at my machinist, but given the crappy castings and knowing that the Chinese love to use sub-par metalurgy, I voted a big no against it. The whole "why cheap out on something like this that holds the very life blood of your new, expensive motor"

Also, we all know you're not buying the oil pan, but you've taken up the mantle of defending Freddy products in this thread. Which is a tall order given that they have yet to prove they are as good as the real deal. They look it, and maybe your butt dyno says that it's working great, but I can guarantee real world emperical data would back up Cody in saying it ain't the same.

In the airsoft world, I deal with chinese knockoffs all the time. I even bought one thinking I could just replace the shoddy parts with some quality aftermarket. In the end, everything but the shell of the rifle would have had to have been replaced and it would have been less expensive for me to have bought the original j-spec rifle, which cost 3 times what the china clone gun cost me.

I'm also 2 steps from shutting this thread down as it's really just spinning its wheels in the mud over a topic that has been discussed so many times, my brain is bleeding.

[inkslingers13]

then shut it down. all i was getting at is he wanted a cheap oil pan, 2 of my friends from a certain buyer had good luck, so i was saying try one of these rather then buying a SHEET metal one. thats all, the only thing i back up that is in anyway FREDDY is the intake mani. i have one and it works great. but the POLISHED one is really some sort of plating, looks cheesy. so i bought the non polished one and polished it my self, got rid of any cast marks and its great. so theres my take on it. when i feel i need a new oil pan and that my stock one is not holding up i will get a greddy. end of story

[0wn3r]

52F00

As far as oil, I dump 4 in all the time.

I did 3.5 and it read RIGHT at high (using OEM filter)...4 seems to be over. you get the same thing with 4 qts?

[codyace]

then shut it down. all i was getting at is he wanted a cheap oil pan, 2 of my friends from a certain buyer had good luck, so i

I guess the thing I get most mad at, is that people CONTINUE going on ebay first, looking for performance parts. That would be the last place I look for anything, and if I do, it's typically a used name brand item.

I know you guys will never admit to it, but buying cheap parts does nothign but hurt our company. Sure, no one likes paying namebrand prices (you guys act like i get off on it), but what you forget, is that by paying namebrand price, you're giving money to companies that ACTUALLY DO R+D work, and make new prodcuts. By giving money to Fredddy, Mishimoto, etc etc, all you're doing is giving money to copycat greedy people, who have nothing to offer the marketplace than a great way for you guys to waste money.

I dunno, perhaps Im' wierd for thinking that way, but I like innovation, and I like new parts. You certainly don't see OBX, Ebay, Freddy, Etc etc developing new parts do you? Nope...and you never will. They simply copy what others put countless hours of testing and design into, and then steal business from those that deserve it.

I did 3.5 and it read RIGHT at high (using OEM filter)...4 seems to be over. you get the same thing with 4 qts?

Yep, it will read higher....the way I look at it (it's an old FWD trick), is that the extra .5 quart is hurting anything, and more than likely will get 'eaten' by any harder driven turbo SR....along with that, it also helps keep slightly more oil in the pan, to avoid starvation.

[0wn3r]

i'd buy cheap rotors from ebay heh..

yeah, i figured it would prevent starvation, but i don't really know how much oil pressure is too much (even though I have the gauge)

[codyace]

Hehe, rotors are one thing....I run repalcement Carquest/Napa rotors because they work.

Stock SR pumps and slightly over filled oil won't give you wacky high oil pressure numbers. What sort of oil pressure are you reading?

[0wn3r]

Depends upon the temperature, rpm's, etc. which is why I have trouble trying to figure where I should be. That myth of 10psi per 1K rpm's has to be BS.

It seems cold start is usually 80psi, idle around 20psi, and highway driving might be around 65psi (at about 4K rpm's)

[codyace]

Depends upon the temperature, rpm's, etc. which is why I have trouble trying to figure where I should be. That myth of 10psi per 1K rpm's has to be BS.

It seems cold start is usually 80psi, idle around 20psi, and highway driving might be around 65psi (at about 4K rpm's)

Your engine sounds completely fine That myth is a very generalized statement at that...

[david200095367]

cody this is off topic but what are you using for grip on 400whp. im having trouble at 350whp on 255/40/17. What do you think of the nitto nt-01?

[codyace]

cody this is off topic but what are you using for grip on 400whp. im having trouble at 350whp on 255/40/17. What do you think of the nitto nt-01?

I only have 245/40/18's in the back, but they are Cheapy Federal 595s (they work awesome for a street tire on track, but wear fast on the street).

Traction? It's not present in first, and sometimes can be lost in 2nd. Oddly enough, the car comes onto power so smoothly that it's not to bad. Alot of turbo cars 'crack' into power, and adhesion is all but lost at the same moment.

In reality however, ocne you cross the 350/400 level, anything tihs side of 280ish+ width and or NT-01/Et Streets/BFG's isn' going to work that well.

Darn our light cars and turbo! hehe.

[david200095367]

so you think getting the nitto nt-01 in 255/40/17 is a waste? what tire would you recommend? i lose traction in 1nd and 2nd gear.

[Kalypso]

I am a little late and I know you've moved on but.

I respect greddy yet they are too expensive - I buy OEM first.

and ironically west covina nissan dealership out in CA has an ebay store where they sell OEM sr20 parts for clearance prices.good things do come from ebay.

I need tires also, something with grip preferably. 225 and 245.

[codyace]

I am a little late and I know you've moved on but.

I respect greddy yet they are too expensive - I buy OEM first.

and ironically west covina nissan dealership out in CA has an ebay store where they sell OEM sr20 parts for clearance prices.good things do come from ebay.

I need tires also, something with grip preferably. 225 and 245.

Jeff @ West Covina Nissan is the man.

so you think getting the nitto nt-01 in 255/40/17 is a waste? what tire would you recommend? i lose traction in 1nd and 2nd gear.

NT-01's in that size should do the trick

[Kalypso]

But cody you are right

its not that ebay is evil, I found a wonderful shop selling holsets and borg warners off of big diesel trucks. there are a lot of great local shops - selling good products.

but the knock-off chinese parts are damaging to the industry.

There are very few legitimate and well made products being exported from china... their one party communist state is exploiting the lower class. they're underpaid and poorly treated.

[ErBall]

I am not trying to fuel a fire here, but i have run a freddy intake manifold, and oil pan for like 3 years now with not a single problem.

granted this is on an almost completely stock sr.

[codyace]

Obviously there will be some good and some bad from everything, it just seems as if (as I said above) that the ratio of good to bad is a bit disheartening to me when I consider total cost of money involved

I am not trying to fuel a fire here, but i have run a freddy intake manifold, and oil pan for like 3 years now with not a single problem.

granted this is on an almost completely stock sr.