Sr20 swap $5000 to spend What to get?

[silver240]

ok guys i have $5000 to spend on a sr20 swap, including the engine. i am putting the engine in myself so after the engine i have about $2200 left i figure. i want to spend the rest on the motor and accesories. what do you guys think i should get? and what companies if possible? thankx

[fullrunsilvia]

1. front mount intercooler2. blow off valve3. walbro fuel pump4. new clutch5. boost controller6. full exaust7. intake

[Checkered-Member]

8. Bigger turbo9. New manifold10. bigger injectors

[silver240]

thankx guys do you know what companies to buy from. which exaust should i get i like the n1 single. also which fmic. i am looking for 240-250whp for this price. is that possible?what boost controller manual or electronic?what clutch. thankx again

[silver240]

by the way i am gettting a red top sr. how long does it take ht to convert the wiring harness after you send it to them?

[Supafly]

for the 250hp level you can do a greddy front mount (VSPL), Walbro 255 fuel pump, full 3"exhaust (downpipe and catback, as well as a test pipe for good measure), boost controller and some extra boost. that'll get you to at least 250crank hp.

[ride4lame]

with 2200 you wont get all the stuff these people haev listed. I would suggest the follwingnismo motor and transmission mounts 220Walbro 255 fuel pump 100Intercooler kit 800clutch 350flywheel 300VLSD 3-350

these parts should give you reliability, and will let you get good potential out of the motor. After these i would suggest a good exhaust. But the listed things here in my opinion are better for reliabilty, which is more important before addind power.

[silver240]

thankx guys my car will be up and running soon i hope. by the way it is a 89 silver coupe. once again thankx for the help

[f150intally]

Spec Stage III Clutch 349.00Walbro Fuel Pump 90.99HKS Type S FMIC 825.00HKS Super Sequential BOV Kit 322.46 (includes hotpipe)Downpipe & Test Pipe 189.00BLITZ NUR Spec R Exhaust 540.00OEM WaterpumpTotal 2300.00

Then add on the boost control next. The following list is what I did with my swap:

Spec Stage III Clutch 349.00Nismo Motor Mounts 160.00300zx transmission Mount FREEWalbro Fuel Pump 90.99HKS Type S FMIC 825.00HKS Super Sequential BOV Kit 322.46Koyo Radiator 349.00FAL Dual 12" Fans 245.00Downpipe & Test Pipe 189.00Stainless Steel O2 housing (turbo elbow)BLITZ NUR Spec R Exhaust 540.00Greddy Turbo Timer 70.00Greddy Profec -B Spec 2 315.00Moroso Breather Tank 70.00Nissan WaterpumpHKS RAS (not installed yet)GREX Metal Head Gasket (not installed yet)Greddy Cam GearsBoost, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temp. Gauges

[nissanrcer240]

Go to sr20 Install FAQ , then go to...what is needed to complete the installI would make sure to get all the parts on that page first.Start from there, then work your way up;)

[SR 240Z]

the stock turbo at full boost can barely push 240-250whp so i would consider using the S15 T28 turbo...

[Phax]

New water pump (Phase2)Metal head gasket (Trust/Greddy)Rocker Arm Stoppers (HKS)Gauges: Exhaust Gas Temp, Boost and Air Fuel (VDO, etc)Greddy / Trust OilpanTitanium valve springs (Trust/Greddy)Clutch capable of handling the power you want to make (RPS, ACT, Spec, etc)Walbro Fuelpump

^^^^

All that stuff should be considered must have if you want an engine that you can drive the hell out of.

Stainless steel brake linesNew rotors (Brembo)Better brake pads (Hawk HPS, Porterfield RS4, etc)Sway bars (Whiteline)Springs / Shocks (Eibach / KYB AGX)Z-rated tires

^^^^

The above stuff will make your car handle better and bring the chassis up to the power level you'll have with the SR20.

The rest of the stuff below will just give you more power.

Intake (assuming the engine doesn't already come with one)Exhaust (any 3inch, mandrel bent exhaust will get the job done, I suggest Meagan Racing)Downpipe (HKS, get it ceramic coated if you can afford to)

^^^^

Those three things will give you the biggest noticible power gains over stock. By this point in the list, you'll probably be out of money. If you're not, look into boost controllers. They'll let you push the stock T25 to 14 psi and beyond. Check the various Stickys and FAQs around the forum for limits of the stock turbo / fuel setup.

[Phax]

these parts should give you reliability, and will let you get good potential out of the motor. After these i would suggest a good exhaust. But the listed things here in my opinion are better for reliabilty, which is more important before addind power.

:Werd

14psi is lots of fun... up until you blow the motor.

[SR 240Z]

the parts that Phax listed are great if u wanna drive the hell out of the engine, but i wouldnt recommend keeping the stock T25

[solid]

Off topic, but whats the difference between the t28 on the s14 then the t28 on the s15? i thought they were the same

[ride4lame]

:Werd

14psi is lots of fun... up until you blow the motor.

Anywhere on my post did i say a boost controller to run 14psi? nope!:mad: I listed things that would be important to run safely at stock boost. It would be really hard to run 14psi with 2200 and i think everyone here knows that. Don't try to make fun of me, i know what i am doing, and i am realistic. Now quit being an e-thug:D

[ride4lame]

Off topic, but whats the difference between the t28 on the s14 then the t28 on the s15? i thought they were the same

The T28 on the S15 has ball bearings while the S14 has journal bearings. The S15 will sping faster and smoother.

[I H8 UR DSM]

$5000= Volk TE37's Apexi N1 coilovers 10pt Roll cage,w/ subframe connectors and swingout doors.

[SR 240Z]

S15 T28 is a dual ball bearing turbo, faster spool up

[Phax]

... Don't try to make fun of me, i know what i am doing, and i am realistic. Now quit being an e-thug:D

You took what I said really personally. Especially considering that I didn't direct my response to directly to you. Chill homie.

[solid]

Hm, i thought the s14 t-28 is ball bearing too, i dont know about dual but im pretty sure its still ball bearing?

[hadokenny]

yea the s14 t-28 is ballbearing also.

[SR 240Z]

but like i said, the s15 t28 is DUAL ball bearing

[ride4lame]

You took what I said really personally. Especially considering that I didn't direct my response to directly to you. Chill homie.

You directly quoted me, so yeah, that would be considered directing your response to me...

we should all just chill though...

[silver240]

wow thankx guys for the advice its great to see differing opinions. i cant wait you guys got me all excited. i think i am going to lead toward building for the power, then add things like intake exaust. safety first seems to be the overall opinion on the motor. thankx again

[Turb0wned]

u can lend me $1000...

[Phax]

You directly quoted me, so yeah, that would be considered directing your response to me...

I was agreeing that reliability should be stressed over power. I guess the

:Werd

didn't convey that in the way I had intended it to. The 14psi comment was directed to guys who said boost controller.

[Onizuka]

Off topic, but whats the difference between the t28 on the s14 then the t28 on the s15? i thought they were the same

S15 turbo is also made with better materials. To give you an idea, the S15 turbo is supposed to out perform the Garrett "disco potato" which retails for well above $1000.

In my opinion it is hard to beat the build quality and reliability of OEM parts, that along with a killer price for a new turbo is what sold me on my S15 turbo.

[180fan]

gaskets and stuff that'll make your life easier in maintaining the engine. also stuff that will be a pain in the butt to do once the engine is in.

motor and transmission mountshead gasket (swap it with something that won't just blow out on you with high boost and might as well if you're going to do a timing chain job)turbo gaskets (run a sr for a while and you'll see why with exhaust leaks from the 4 hole turbo gasket)exhaust/intake manifold gasketstiming chain (as most sr's I've seen have 30-40k, you'll be in for a timing job soon enough and pulling the motor to do the timing job is a pain in the butt)arp head studsrocker arm stoppers (try greddy or tomei, hks I've heard were too thin while the other two I heard were beefy)cams (while you're in there to install the RAS)front/rear crank sealslightened flywheel (fidanza or if you've got $$$ try JUN or Unorthodox)clutch (personally I've used ACT with no problems, but people say good things about SPEC around here)oil coolerradiator (try koyo or greddy if you've got $$$)harness job for the sr (100 @ HT, 150-200 @ motorex, 200 @ enjuku as prices quoted)downpipebasic install kit (belts, aiv plug, heater hoses, etc)fluids (coolant, motor oil, oil filters, gear oil, ps fluid)boost controller (like the greddy's or apexi's)

save some $$$ for once the engine is in as you may encounter problems but yeah think about stuff that'll be a total pain to do once the engine is sitting in the engine bay and you'll understand why I personally have got the list that I do above.

[Phax]

...think about stuff that'll be a total pain to do once the engine is sitting in the engine bay and you'll understand why I personally have got the list that I do above.

180fan brings up some good points. With engines like the SR20DET that have most likely been driven hard before you even got your hands on them, you really should plan on overhauling the engine if you want it to last for a long time. There are all sorts of necessary things that are easy to do with the motor outside of the car. For example with my swap, I didn't truly think out the gauges all the way. Now, the starter needs to be removed to expose enough of the block to tap the line for the oil pressure sender. If I had thought a bit further ahead before putting the engine into the car, I would have had that part on hand and done it while the motor was still on the engine stand.

Silver...

If you have the ability to do so, you might consider exposing the crank and checking the bearings for wear. Mine were worn, not to the point of being dangerous... but also not in good enough shape to last for 100,000+ miles of the way I drive. Luckily, the USDM SR20DE bearings and washers fit the SR20DET crank.

Phase2 sells a gasket set, that comes with all of the gaskets, piston rings, etc, etc that you need to overhaul an engine. It's worth picking up, even if you don't end up needing everything in there. I didn't use the piston rings because mine were in good shape, but it was nice to have them there just incase.

As 180fan pointed out, when it comes to deciding what to do now, versus later, do the foundational, difficult to do later stuff, now. If it can be bolted on or plugged in later, it's smart to wait until later to plug it in, or bolt it on.