sr20 first start....its a dud

[blinker_fluid]

Just finished installing my s13 blacktop. Primed it with oil, cranked it a few times, and it turned over. To my dissapointment it was tapping worse than the ka I pulled out in the first place. Before i turn green I'm gonna wait until tomorrow and let it run a little longer just to make sure oil is circulating. Does ne body have a suggestion or been in this situation before? Warranty says it only covers parts that are broken so do i have to take the engine apart find out whats wrong and wait for them to send new parts to me? I got the motor from jdmsource if ne body wanted to know.

[SpeedRacer1]

Remove the valve cover, and take off the chain guide. Put the valve cover back on and see if the noise went away.

[CoupedUp]

Remove the valve cover, and take off the chain guide. Put the valve cover back on and see if the noise went away.

I was curious about that. The S13 and Zenki S14 KA24DEs had the Top Chain Guide, then on the Kouki ones they removed it.

Is this item as commonly removed on the SR as the KA? Did the S14a and S15 motors have the upper guide?

[SpeedRacer1]

When I first installed my current motor it initially made noise. I removed the guide, the noise stopped, then a few years later I put it back on and the noise was gone.

The guide is on both S14 and S15 SR20DET's.

[blinker_fluid]

sounds more like a spun bearing. When u first start a jdm motor how long does it take to get oil pressure or is it immediate? I'm primed the motor by turning it without the fuel pump. Then I started it and it was tapping really loud and had a very rough idle. These are the exact symptoms my ka had before i pulled it out. Kinda negates getting a new motor. Like i said i'll try to see what the problem is tomorrow and if it is the bearing then i'll just have to down a 12 pack and curse alot.

[IanS]

call whoever you sourced your motor from and tell them whats going on, if its a junk motor, they should replace it, key word here is should, good luck.

[blinker_fluid]

thanks...i guess it just sucks to be me b/c I spent all of my free time the last two weeks getting it to this point. Now i gotta take it out and put another one in. Don't be surprised if you see me getting arrested on the local news. This pretty much sums up what happened when I started the motor->

[GTS4-R]

check the oil pan!!! the pick up for the pump is mounted extremely close to the pan....the smallest dent in the pan with choke off oil flow to the pump!!! take the pan off and bang it out or get a greddy or ebay pan.... my drift car was like that....we took the pan off and like 3 more qts of oil came pouring out the pickup when we took the pan off lol....ebay pan started it....no more tapping

[GTS4-R]

did that fix it?

[blinker_fluid]

The pan is perfect. The engine has great oil pressure. Just something broken inside. I called jdmsource and they said to pull the motor out and they would pick it up and send a different one when they get a tracking number. They say its only gonna take four days after they get the number ...canada to nj I'll be holding my breath for that to happen. And he couldn't guarantee that the new motor would be good. I'm not in the mood for doing this a second time let alone three but what can I do just gotta eat it and savor the flavor.

[redtop91]

Where exactly is the tapping coming from? Might be the lifters needing to be bled.

[blinker_fluid]

Its coming from the bottom of the head if that makes any sense. How do I bleed the lifters just pour oil in them?

[redtop91]

No. http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=238409

Search for bleed on that page and there is a step by step on bleeding lifters.

[blinker_fluid]

Thanks i'll give it a try tomorrow. Like the dubs in your sig.

[GTS4-R]

u hav eto take thm out and submerge them in oil then "prime" them manually with a paperclip or something small enough to push the little piston inside....

[GTS4-R]

if u take them out and can compress threm with your fingers than they need to be reprimed until they practically feel solid

[blinker_fluid]

wasn't that there were all solid with almost no squish. I pulled the motor out about half hour ago and am getting it ready to be shipped back. Too bad its alot faster coming out than going back in.

[GTS4-R]

thats for damn sure

[S14-KOUKI-MONSTER]

Sorry to hear that bro. I got my engine from jdmsource too, but mine runs perfectly. I did have a slight issue with them though. They had 2 kouki notchtops, apparently with almost identical compression. One had an aftermarket exhaust manifold and buddy club chipped ecu, which they wanted an extra $200 for. I told nesar I only wanted it if the manifold wasn't cracked, so to check it out and LMK. He said that it wasn't, but then I get it and sure enough it was cracked in three places, and I could even see where someone tried to weld it. I called him and told him about it, and sent him pics. It took a couple weeks, but he refunded my $200, and mailed me a stock manifold too.Though it's really hard to, just think positive. It is a royal pain to RE&RE your engine again, you will become that much more familiar with your car now, making you that much smarter & future work that much easier.Hope it all gets worked out, and you're happy in the end.

[blinker_fluid]

Thanks but after this i will never deal with jdmsource again. The engine i can't really blame them for b/c they don't have the equipment to run it outside of a car. They do however have the ability to tell that an intercooler is encased in concrete and maybe they shouldn't have sent it to me. Also the mafs is no good and the driveshaft had a crushed carrier bearing. Guess its a good thing b/c there running out of ways to screw up.

[GTS4-R]

well swaps arnt even siupposed to include a driveshaft anyways....

[blinker_fluid]

How do you think I got talked into the sale? Intercooler, piping, driveshaft, cross member and shifter. "You get what you pay for" is not an excuse. I haggled with the pricing to include this stuff and still was charged $2400. Granted the driveshaft doesn't fit but thats what happens b/c I didn't reasearch enough. Still it shouldn't have a carrier bearing that looks like my brothers diesel ran over it, the maf had a thick layer of black carbon inside, it came with a 62 ecu from what I can tell is from a redtop, the letters on the valve cover have red around them indicating a bad paint job, the piping was incomplete, and the intercooler damn sure should not have more quickcrete on it than my driveway. Again I can't ***** about the engine or trans b/c its "under warranty"but everything else is fair game.