SR Won't start..no spark?

[Bryson]

Hey guys... I'm trying to finish off my SR swap... everything is hooked, I think.

It cranks, and I know its getting fuel.... but it still won't start. I just pulled out a coil and looked ot see if any spark was comming off the plug and nothing was... is this an acceptable way of testing to see if the ignitor chip is shot?? or could it be something else??? a guy told me there is an ignition ground wire tha tmust be hooke dup.. I don't remember hooking any ground wires up after the engine was in other than the - battery cable.

Any ideas on what I should do??

[SpeedRacer1]

There is a ground wire coming out of the coilpack subharness. Your timing from your CAS may be off or the wiring could be incorrect. Your battery may just be shot, or need a jump start. Also if you flood your plugs with fuel the engine will not start, just crank, so make sure to clean them off when trying something new.

[slow s13]

make shure you ground the spark plug when you take it out to test it. I used jumper cables to do it. Did you hook up the engine's ground, it continues on from the negative batery terminal touches the frame and ends up on the intake manifold.

[Bryson]

the braided sort of ground off the back of teh engine is now hooked up... the ground comming out of the harness thatconnects all the transmission plugs is connected, the big ground that goes form engine to fame to battery is also hooke dupstill nothin'when u say ground teh spark plug... exactly how do u ground the spark plug?? I need to see if I'm still not getting a spark

[slow s13]

the threaded part of the spark plug needs to be grounded, I used some jumper cables to do it.

[Bryson]

Ok I've now tested two spark plugs on two of the coils, properly grounded.. and I'm still comming up with nothing. I can hear the fuel pump come on when the key is put into the on position. I'm going to try and check the ignitor now.

[Bryson]

ok guys I tested my chip with a multitester and this is the results it gave me on the attachment.

Everything seemed right except for + e - 3 gave a result when it shouldn't have.

Also... on the E+ abcd- and vise versa, it gave a result then piddled down to 0.00 after a couple seconds. It is very likely I may have had the DC ohm setting wrng I test it on 2000k resistance setting.

whenever my tester wasn't detecting anything it just had a 1 in the left corner... so I assumed 1 was a no continuity reading and anything else was continuity.

Based off this tell me how to PROPERLY test it or if u think that means my ignitor is bad.

[SpeedRacer1]

The easiest way to test it is to find another person with a working on and pop it in.

[Bryson]

well if I knew anyone I wouldn't have bought the multitester and tested it...

Come on man u got me all excited that someone could gimme a yes or no off my results just to tell me the obvious!!!!

But thanks anyways

[Bryson]

Anyone know the proper ohm resistance lvl to set this to when testing it?? i tested it again on 200 resistance as opposed to 2000k and the readings were all different and all tweaked. I called a shop, they didn't know.. I called McKinney and they are going to help me tommorrow morning, but I'm trying to figure this out tonight. Anyone know for certain??

[IvoryJ30t]

you do realize that as the ohms reach zero, your getting proper continuity. a high ohm reading is poor continuity.

[IvoryJ30t]

if your meter says 0-20 ohms, thats good continuity.

[IvoryJ30t]

get it? ohms is a unit of resistance. as the ohms climb, the conductivity is decreasing.

[Bryson]

ahhh gotcha so 0 or extremely close to it would be proper contintuiy, and higher lvls r improper gotcha... well that means i need to test it again.. but still the problem is.. what setting do I put it on

2000k, 200k, 20k, 2000, 200....

[Bryson]

ok guys 4 get my previous info on my results.. its all messed up... this whole damn thing is all tweaked out I am convinced this ignitor is borken based off the fact that no matter what setting of resistance its on.. no matter wtf I do it will never reach 0 or anywhere near it on resistance

[Bryson]

alright guys well I learned a little something about testing a circuit today and resistances. My ignitor is shot.. how do I know this???

All the A B E C D (+ -) checks.. teh second row out of the FSM WILL ... WILL give a 0 reading.. continuity...

plugs 1,2,4 give no reading no matter wtf I do..

and E 3 and c 3 will give areading but its no where near 0.. not continuious when it should be.. therfore.. the 1,2,3,4 side of my ingitor is all screwed up. its busted. I need a new one.. thank u and goodnight

[SpeedRacer1]

Id have it checked out by a dealership or a mechanic before you go tossing it out. Thats a $250 part that you may be testing improperly.

[GTR-33]

Yousure you have fuel? The most common mistake I see people make when putting in an SR is installing the fuel lines backwards... I swear everyone does it. I did it my first time with a redtop... I sat looking at the motor for an hour before I went :thinker and the light came on...

[Bryson]

well I have my fuel IN line plugged into the spot between the intake manifold and the return line is connected to the one by the TB.

[Bryson]

i'm hoping thats right.

[GTR-33]

It sounds like you have it right...hmm....

[Bryson]

well don't forget the ignitor is all tore back. I just bought a new one it'll be here friday or sat.

[f150intally]

Bryson,you said the big ground coming from the transmission harness. There is not a ground on this harness so where is the the big wire from the harness hooked up? One should run to your battery and the other wire goes to the starter. There is no ground wire that I'm aware of on the lower harness.

-Jay

[Bryson]

Ok well time to revive this old thread because... the new ignitor didn't end my problems...!

Still no spark and I know the fuel pump is pumping fuel... but after trying to crank i for liek a mintue i pulled a plug and thr eis no fuel on it.. which means my injectors are most likely not firing yes???

[912.0turbo]

Put a screwdriver on the injector and put your ear to the handle if you hear a clicking noise from the injector it is working if not then they are not firing.

[loudbay]

bryson:i've got the same problem... i just figured out today that my front cylinder is getting spark, but none of the other ones.... all of my ignitor packs are good (tested them on the front cylinder signal). did you figure out what was wrong? i am sorry to read that your new ignitor chip didn't fix it..... my ignition sub harness has all 6 pins with wires.... it connects to my engine harness that has only 5 wires in that plug... wtf? could this be our problem? what does yours look like?

[Bryson]

I'm now down in my hometown which is 200 miles from my car--- but I'm going back up there tommorrow afternoon to work on it all weekend. Yesterday while working on it I looked through the FSM searching for grounds and for some dumb reason teh gyu before me cut off the black ECU pin which is top row and over two to th eleft from the center bolt. Ignition ground. Also the small ground wire that bolts down right next to the coil closest to the firewall is also cut off... when I was putting it in i totally overlooked these cuzz they were just loose. I am going to completely pull the harness out with a friend... look over it, and put it all back in using the Fsm as a guide.. I'll let you kn ow after that.

[civics91]

i am haveing the same prob as loudbay how did u guys fix it

[Bryson]

It turns out my old ignitor was bad.. and my NEW ignitor was bad... the NEW NEW one is suppose to be on the way but god the dude is just NOT sending it... been like 3 weeks now and bluuhhh.......

[loudbay]

hey guys, i found out that i had a different ecu with a 62 cover on it (p.o.s. people huh?)... so that was my problem... what type of ignitor are you using? sr20, z32, q45? make sure you're not using a blacktop ecu with red eng or vice versa not even the type x ecu will work...