i let my car prime everytime i start the car. also i put alot of vaseline when i replaced the injectors so that couldn't be it. i'm thinking either going to a small battery or changing the wire to 0 gauge and hopefully it would help. any other suggestions are more than welcome.Chris28 wrote:Try turning the key just to the on position so you let the fuel pump prime and get fuel to the injectors.
Also, when I put my new injectors in I forgot to lube the o-rings up with vaseline. This caused the o-rings to tear and my injectors were leaking. After I replaced the rings and made sure the injectors were sealed it was much easier to start, like 2-3 turns of the engine vs the 20-30 that it was taking before.
My tuner made a special map for me and it runs perfect except the cold start. he told me it could be the wiring because its 4g or my starter going bad. I put a brand new coolant temp censor for the ecu already. the battery is also new its the duralast gold top from autozone. i also cleaned the iacv.DevilMB3017 wrote:What tuning did you end up with in the end?
It's possible your just not tuned well for a cold start.
If you're still pulling timing above 4.2k or so, it's also possible your water temp sensor is no good. It's pretty common and causes a lot of weird issues with KA's.
I've had both 4ga and now currently 0ga wiring and haven't had problems with either. It's also possible you're battery just isn't that strong anymore. What type of battery? How old is it?
When you say it has cold start troubles, do you mean it cranks but won't start? Like you hear the starter but it won't actually start? Or does the starter crank slower?beatd wrote:i doubt my tuner forgot to put a cold map on because i consitantly hounded him about it because it was one of my primary troubles i told him about.
The car will crank just won't actually start unless i keep cranking and pumping the gas pedal and after several tries it would finally fire up and run. If i turn it off right after and try to turn it back on it would be fine its just when i try to start it when the car is left alone for more than 4 hours. I'm going to go over my grounds and see if they are all good and the grounds for my coolant temp, and tps.DevilMB3017 wrote:
When you say it has cold start troubles, do you mean it cranks but won't start? Like you hear the starter but it won't actually start? Or does the starter crank slower?
Then it's probably not your starter - although your starter probably doesn't like you right now, lol.beatd wrote:
The car will crank just won't actually start unless i keep cranking and pumping the gas pedal and after several tries it would finally fire up and run. If i turn it off right after and try to turn it back on it would be fine its just when i try to start it when the car is left alone for more than 4 hours. I'm going to go over my grounds and see if they are all good and the grounds for my coolant temp, and tps.
lol my starter is about to get pissed on. i've checked that article and i'm down to the ecu power source and grounds. so i'm adding alot of grounds to the motorDevilMB3017 wrote:
Then it's probably not your starter - although your starter probably doesn't like you right now, lol.
CTS and TPS shouldn't really have anything to do with the cold start issue.
Check out this article maybe?http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=160218
Bigger wire probably wouldn't hurt if you wanted to waste some money... lolbeatd wrote:all i have is 4gauge audio wires do you think thats good enough for grounding and power wire?
No KA really runs until redline... lolMy engine redlines at around 7.2K, but I the power tapers off around 6.6K or so as fas I can tell from my horrible dyno sheets, lol.RPS13 DRIFTER wrote:how is the high end with that T28?does it pull till redline?
Unless your throwing any codes, I doubt there is anything on the coil wrong. A new stock coil is more then acceptable and easier and cheaper then the MSD units.beatd wrote:ok over the weekend i got a chance to put in the grounds: 1 from the battery tray to the intake manifold, back of the intake manifold to the firewall, and on the head on exhaust manifold side to the firewall. i'm still having cold start problems.
Should i replace the stock coil with a mds blaster coil? or add another ground to the batter from the trunk? or check the grounds on the harness to the coolant temp sensor?
yea i'm going to double the ground for the battery to chassis, and hardwire the stock coil from the writeup and see if that would help since i have colder plugs in.DevilMB3017 wrote:
Unless your throwing any codes, I doubt there is anything on the coil wrong. A new stock coil is more then acceptable and easier and cheaper then the MSD units.
I would try yet another ground direct from the battery to your chassis.
After i hardwire the coil how big of a sparkplug gap could i run for a bigger spark?D-UNIT wrote:Your 370s' are flooding the engine on the initial injector pulse sequence. That happens on my 740s' when I stop cranking before the engine starts. I have to hold it at full throttle and crank it to start it. A blaster SS coil would help burn the extra initial fuel.