SR Help Needed
SR Help Needed
Okay really bugging problem, cant figure it out1989 Nissan 240sx SR20DET redtop 5speed550cc injectors, walboro 255, gt25r .64, megan exhaust mani, o2housing, 3" exhaust, hard intake, z32, enthalpy tuned ecu, fmic, hks ssqvokay a few months ago i put my car down to get a lot of work done on it. got the new turbo and injectors and all done, and got rid of my safc for a enthalpy ecu. finnaly got to run the car for the first time, and it is real rich. smokes when u gas it, narrow band stays uber rich under wot, and put it on a dyno to get a a/f. starts at right under 11, and immediatly drops to under 10 where it wont even read on the dyno. i talked to scott and he said didnt think it was the tune making it rich, so trying to figure out what. also i think my bov is not opening some times? i hear this sound when i left off the gas coming through my intake, i unhooked my bov vacum and it makes the same sound. after driving it a while, it will just start working, like it wont chirp when i shift all the time, just some times, though i shift the same. i got my vacum lines like this, two outs on the t/b, one is T to fuel pressure regulator and boost gauge. the other is T wastegate and bov. stuff i tried: injectors not leaking at either big or small o-ring, all firing. no leaks i could tell (tried the carb cleaner method) plugs are fouled but not going to change them till i fix it. had one code a while ago (34 if i remember, it was knock sensor) but it was just the plug loose. no codes now 55. it will drive good, until under acceleration where it will buck in 1st and higher rpms 2nd. doesnt buck 3-4-5, but does bog after wot for a few seconds, then kinda clears out and pulls good. i can get pictures/video of anything, please let me know. really want to fix it. thank u for help, sorry its so long but i wanted to be specific.
Are the injectors clean and are you positive they're 550cc? Your vac issues might be doing something fishy to the FPR also.
You only use 2 vac nipples off the intake manifold. The top two, the one at the bottom you don't use except for the carbon canister. If you're using that for your BOV, that's your problem. The narrowband A/F, ditch it. It's a pos that won't tell you jack except give you a light show.
The wastegate should be getting the signal from the IC piping, or tap a nipple into the turbo. Check over your vac lines since it seems as though your bov isn't getting the vacuum signal it needs.
Check over those vac lines and post back what happens.
You only use 2 vac nipples off the intake manifold. The top two, the one at the bottom you don't use except for the carbon canister. If you're using that for your BOV, that's your problem. The narrowband A/F, ditch it. It's a pos that won't tell you jack except give you a light show.
The wastegate should be getting the signal from the IC piping, or tap a nipple into the turbo. Check over your vac lines since it seems as though your bov isn't getting the vacuum signal it needs.
Check over those vac lines and post back what happens.
Re: (180fan)
Ya, they are brand new SARD. ya lower t/b port is plugged, only using top two next to each other. just got the narrow band to fill a spot till later. i widebanded it on the dyno how i got the below 10 a/f reading. so my wastegate should be on the hot pipe instead of T with the bov? i dont have no spot for it, but will weld a nipple on if thats the best way to do it. the vac lines arent leaking or nothing for the bov, and it just works sometimes and doesnt work sometimes. but tell me more to check/ try i really appreciate it!
The way I've got my vac lines setup IIRC, the two vac nipples on the throttle I've got the smaller one set to my FPR and the larger one to my BOV.
The wastegate has a nipple stock on the coldpipe, but many people put it on the hotpipe. I have mine coming off a nipple on one of the elbows on the turbo. Your boost gauge will tee off the fpr.
Also did you change the coolant temp sensor? Clean the MAFS or give the MAFS plug a wiggle to see if any of that will change the situation any? Otherwise I don't see why Scotts tune should be making your car run funny, I suspect it's something a bit more basic than that like the CTS or MAFS.
Your bov not always going off, it doesn't always have to I reckon. My Sard doesn't go off all the time, only if I shift past 3k.
The wastegate has a nipple stock on the coldpipe, but many people put it on the hotpipe. I have mine coming off a nipple on one of the elbows on the turbo. Your boost gauge will tee off the fpr.
Also did you change the coolant temp sensor? Clean the MAFS or give the MAFS plug a wiggle to see if any of that will change the situation any? Otherwise I don't see why Scotts tune should be making your car run funny, I suspect it's something a bit more basic than that like the CTS or MAFS.
Your bov not always going off, it doesn't always have to I reckon. My Sard doesn't go off all the time, only if I shift past 3k.
Re: (180fan)
i was just worried the bov not going off, that the noise iwas hearing was surgemafs is good, recently tried a new one. plugs good, all new wiring and grounds and stuff. whats CTS? cam timing sensor? thats good i believe, recently checked the timing when i put on a new cover/oil pump. coolant temp sensor i never checked or replaced, where is it and can i get one off a 91 sentr ser sr20de?
Re: (180fan)
okay made a pressure tester and found a few problems, the turbo has a bunch of screw holes on it (i guess for acc) and one of them had air coming out of it. so i put a bolt in it (not enough to hit fan) and fixed that one. no more leaks showing up right now, and the car drives better until boost (needle goes above 0) then starts bucking real bad. this sounds exactly like a leak, but i cant find one with a pressure tester. also i am going to change out my spark plugs now ( i know they are black as night) what plugs should i use? ive read so many conflicting things about which ones to use and from what vehicleand what coolant temp sensor to use, ive read same year ka24de, sentra se-r, 300zxtt, which one? i got a 92-93 redtop
Re: (180fan)
no fpr, just factory. i have checked it though and fuel pressure is good (i think 40 something at idle)going to slap some plugs in it and see if that helps any now i got that massive leak fixed. and going to pick up a cts
Re: (Gutling)
alright got cts and some bkr6e coppers to try. going to be gone for a while before i get to see if it worked or not, but please post anything else to try while im gone! and thank yall so much
Re: (Gutling)
Okay CTS and plugs did nothing, whats next?
Re: (180fan)
that is what i was thinking... might want to get a nismo fpr just to check it out180fan wrote:what do you mean no fpr? there's a weird saucer shaped thing at the front of the fuel rail, that thing is the fpr. The other thing I can think of is the fpr is acting goofy or the ecu tune is the right one for your application.
Re: (USsil80)
I meant i did not have an adjustable one, i still got the factory one on there.
Re: (180fan)
Alright I am ordering a nismo adj fuel pressure regulator, and crossing my fingers. I been meaning to get one anyway, and going to hook up a fuel psi gauge inside too.
Re: (180fan)
Well got it put on and set at 36psi idle, and it changed nothing. Please any more suggestions? This thing is killing me
Re: (180fan)
Sorry, newb question again but where is the tps? and which wires on it do i check the voltages at? i can get a multimeter
Re: (Gutling)
Okay i unplugged my o2 sensor and drove around, nothing different. Unplugged my TPS (I believe, the three wire plug going to t/b) and nothing changed but lumpy idle
Yeah, don't unplug the TPS, check the voltages across it when it's at idle and at WOT. At idle, the voltage should read somewhere between 0.3v to 0.6v, and at WOT ~4 volts.
The TPS is attached to the throttle, the only sensor on the throttle that gets a plug. Get the multimeter and a needle unless you've got an AFC which can give you the readout without a multimeter.
The TPS is attached to the throttle, the only sensor on the throttle that gets a plug. Get the multimeter and a needle unless you've got an AFC which can give you the readout without a multimeter.
Re: (180fan)
alright the middle wire read .528 at idle, and about 4. at wotthe bottem read a constant 5.13
Re: (Gutling)
I got a video of it messing up, if you had someway for me to send it to you
Re: (Gutling)
A friend of mine listened to the car and told me it was missing real bad. the plugs i just put in were gapped to .44 (sentra ser) so i gapped them to about .30 and it changed, didnt get better or worse but it kinda skips the whole rpm band now. going to try .25 tommorow and check timing. but changing the gap kinda made it better, really just changed how it was messing up.
Re: (Gutling)
okay fixed somethings, got new things. found out by wiggling wires that my #4 injector would cut in and out when i wiggled wires, so put some dielectric grease on it and seemed to fix that problem. it dont stutter so much now, so that must have been part of the problem. okay went and bought some new plugs, nkg 6 coper, b/c i am seafoaming the brake booster. i am going to gap these to .30-.32 (electrode is bigger than the little marks, so cant be uber accurate) and see if that helps some. car still runs real rich though, but at least pulls better.
Re: (Gutling)
Okay fixed injector wiring found out was loose, made a lot of the stuttering go away. found out knock sensor bad, so ordered a new one and going to put it in thur. checked timing, its good. no leaking o-rings. why is the car still running so rich? i am putting in new plugs tommorow, a friend of mine looked at mine (ngk 6 heat) and said they were getting to hot, so im going to try 7s.
Re: (180fan)
i know some rich is good, but this is below a 11 a/f the whole rpm band. boost it to 14psi and it drops below 10, wont even read on the graph. it made more power at 9psi than 14psi