spec 2 or 3 clutch

[vboyq]

hmmm... did u break it in proper? i hear thats a big problem with the specs... u don't break it in rite, then they dont show u no respect!

[Cyberkreig]

I have a spec 2 kevlar in right now. I love it grabs very well will slip if overheated but then what wont?

I also have a spec3 4puck ceramic (sprung).. I took this out ONLY becuase i already had the transmission down and had a spec 2 clutch on hand. The spec3 had no more than 500 miles. I loved it, hard petal but it could be feathered. It will go back in when the stage2 bites it.

[nismostate]

got a spec 3. what is the proper way to break it in? just no launching and harsh shifting right? only boosted to 3 psi but not sure if that's bad for it. overall, its pretty good. imo, its not too stiff at all. almost the same as my prelude and those are stock! i think....:pface

[vboyq]

yeah just easy driving for like 600 miles(just to be safe, i wouldnt mind slappin on a couple extra miles!)

[240dreams]

i didnt breakin im my spec stage 3 properly. i redlined and crap all day when i got my sr started. trust me after 3 months not driving my car or a manual.....so far i havent had any issues after about 1500 miles.

[nismostate]

well, I haven't had a car for 5 months now. Finally got it started a week ago. I can't boost or anything because im missing the actuator. only brought it up to 4500 w/ 3 lbs of boost. Im just enjoying a car right now!! I don't feel like buying a new clutch anytime soon so im just gonna go easy on the break in period. I want to be sure the motor itself is good too.

[BaliLover]

I have a stage 2 and it feels a little stiffer than stock, but still not unbearable. Alot of my friends stall the car when they go to move it though, it grabs pretty well low on the pedal. HOWEVER, a friends of mine with a CA swap is also running a Spec 2 clutch, but her pedal feels like crap. Its super soft, almost like theres no force pushing back on the pedal, its softer than any clutch pedal I've ever had to use. I'm actually scared driving her car due to the softness, I feel like I'm gonna push the pedal through the floor all the time.

[nismostate]

maybe it's not bled properly? That really doesn't sound right at all.

[unfrgivn]

You might not have the vaccum assist hooked up to your clutch master cylinder. There is a hard line that runs along the driver's side fender from the clutch cylinder, and then turns into a vaccum hose. Mine is just open instead of hooked into a vaccum source which makes my clutch a lot stiffer than it should be.

[ColumbusDrift]

when i finished my buddy's sr conversion on his s13 i got to feel the spec 3 clutch. i wouldn't see a problem on it being a daily driver. and it grabs very good in my opinion.

[nismostate]

I have a problem with my spec 3. It's only got 145 mi and it's slipping! I can gun it and not slip but when I punch it, it slips! I only did this twice accidently but it slipped both times that I did it. Is it because it's still breaking in? I had my flywheel resurfaced but I don't know how much they took off.. Im worried that they might off taken too much off of the fly. I have not launched or done any harsh ****ting at all. any ideas?

[unfrgivn]

Could you explain the difference between "gun it" and "punch it"?

[vboyq]

also, anyone know how much it needs to be taken off when i resurface the flywheel( its' a dual layer am i correct)? gotta know so i don't get it wrong... not exactly sr specialists down here in west palm gotta tell exactly what to do or they mess it up!

[nismostate]

This is when in gear already. "gun it" is when it gradually pick up in rpm very quickly. "punch it" is when i stomp on the pedal. sorry for the confusion. Any ideas? Geez, i think the guy shaved mine off to a single layer! anyone have a sr flywheel for sale ?:(

[Cyberkreig]

I have a stock sr flywheel. but it is very heavy (cost to ship)

Also i'd have to say that you shouldnt be "punching it" on a clutch that only has 100 miles on it. It could also be clutch(bleed) or clutch petal adjustment

[Phax]

Also i'd have to say that you shouldnt be "punching it" on a clutch that only has 100 miles on it. It could also be clutch(bleed) or clutch petal adjustment

You need to take it easy. If you've already given it full throttle, odds are you've F'd up the clutch. Sorry.

Don't feel too bad though. I think that I roasted my new clutch too. I just got it back from ClutchMasters. They put on a kevlar disc. I babied it (no boost what so ever) for ~800 miles. I was babying it so much, I even got 378 miles out of one tank of gas.

None the less, it feels like it is slipping under boost and it kind of smells. I'm going to take it back to the shop, because I need a second opinion. The clutch might be fine and I could just be a tripper. I don't think so though... I'm afraid that I wrecked it.

But back to the original intention of this post.... BE GENTLE on your new clutch. When properly broken in, a clutch should grab just fine. You need to spend at least 500 miles CITY DRIVING before going into boost. Even then, you still want to baby it.

[nismostate]

well, for the first 100 miles, I wasn't boosting. I didn't have a actuator so it stayed less than 3 psi. It still slipped. I didn't intentionally punch, just accidentally. I have been babying it for the most part. Then I got an actuator yesterday. It grabs good when I gunned it a couple of times. Never brought it past 4500 rpm. Then I accidentally punched it again and it slipped... sigh. now I have about 145-160 miles. I bled it properly but I might have to check on that again. It doesn't make sense because it is already in gear. wrong bleeding and pedal adjustment shouldn't cause it to do that right? I have a feeling that the flywheel is resurfaced too low...remember, i haven't done any harsh shifting , launch, etc. Only gunned it about 5 times to hear the bov and to see how fast the turbo spools up. punching it was just me driving bad at the time.

[toledo240]

I would go with the stage 3 i have just about the same setup. I have been taking it easy and only boosted it to fix my boost leak. I hear alot of negatives about stage 2 but stage 3 grabs really good and the clutch is stiffer, gives it a race feeling to it.If your only going with a stage 2 just go and get and act clutch. imo get stage 3 you'll be impressed

[vboyq]

i was under the asumption that the stock 7psi was good for the break in period, how do i get it down to 3 psi and can i do it easily with the motor and turbo in the engine bay?

[Phax]

i was under the asumption that the stock 7psi was good for the break in period, how do i get it down to 3 psi and can i do it easily with the motor and turbo in the engine bay?

7psi roasted my clutch. You keep your boost under control by keeping the gas pedal off of the floor. I actually managed to get 378 miles on a tank of a gas while I was breaking the clutch in. Usually when driving normally, I get between 310-330.

[f150intally]

remember that spec 3 clutches do not require break in since they are ceramic. Organic and kevlar require break-in.

and I have a spec 3. I love it dude. It has crazy grip but retains the sprung hub so it is awesome. I will say though it is very ON-OFF. But I've learned to slip it enough to pull a 1.84 60 ft time and a 13.01 1/4 mile.

[vboyq]

wat! i don't need to break in the spec 3, are u sure on that!?!?also wat mods do u have that u managed a 13.01 and a 1.84 on the 60ft(wat mods do u have in terms of traction and power adders)?also wat do u mean by ON-OFF, f150intially?

[f150intally]

wat! i don't need to break in the spec 3, are u sure on that!?!?also wat mods do u have that u managed a 13.01 and a 1.84 on the 60ft(wat mods do u have in terms of traction and power adders)?also wat do u mean by ON-OFF, f150intially?

Yes, that is correct, ceramic disks do not require break-in. I boosted my clutch the first night I installed it and never had any problems, period. It never slipped. The only bad thing that happened is I blew the hot-pipe off because of the crappy coupler i used.

Ok, so you want to know about the BlueBomber??

Follow this link

Running 14.7 psi when I made that pass. I also ran a 13.10 right before that pass.

The car sits exactly like the modification page states.

As far as traction mods, greg dupree subframe spacers (completely eliminate wheel hop), bf goodrich drag radials - 225-50-15 on stock alloys, 1990 300zx n/a vlsd. The car hooks like a mutha! I made 244.2 whp on 1 BAR.

a good pass is all about the first 60 ft. When I ran a 13.5 i pulled a 2.003 60 ft. When I ran the 13.0, 1.84 60 ft.

Here is the video (PLEASE RIGHT CLICK AND SAVE AS)

P.S. Don't pull out of your drive way and boost right then. Drive 6-8 miles before you boost the hell out of it.

[f150intally]

also wat do u mean by ON-OFF, f150intially?

Oh, forgot to answer this question. ON-OFF, either the clutch is gripping or it is not. It is more difficult to "slip" the clutch. Very, very short engagement. Understand now?

[nismostate]

so what do you guys think my problem is? can anyone confirm that the sr flywheel is 2 layer? cause mine is shaved off a lot. i knew it looked odd when i got it back.

[vboyq]

you have the 6 puck stage 3 right f150?

[vboyq]

nevamind see in ur link that u don't... anyway the 6 puck should just be that much better right?