spark plugs

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elwesso
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This is not about replacement, but about what kinds are the best. Are the factory NGK the best, or are other ones, like maybe champion or other ones be as good if not better. Please share experiences.


DAEDALUS
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Stick with factory NGK. Nothing else will work as well or for very long.

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elwesso
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I noticed in the service manual it calls for either hot or cold ones. which ones should I use.

maxnix
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Reading your plug tips will tell you. Probably the hot ones.

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QShip
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I would go with the 5B.

I'll be ordering splugs and O2 sensors soon and that's what I'll be using.

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elwesso
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What exactly is the difference between the two?

Q45tech
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The length of the ceramic insulator before it contacts the metal of the plug. How fast it transmits the heat of combustion to the heads..........average plug tip temperature......too Cold and it may foul at idle, too Hot and it may set off preignition at sustained high rpms.For most idle fouling is the worst case since few drive at high rpm for a long time in Summer.

Plus or minus 1 heat range 5,6 or 7 won't affect power at all.

Guess the real criteria is how many times per day you exceed 5500 rpms regularly vs the more normal driver whose average day is 2,000 rpm [675>2,700 rpm].....can't go wrong with 6B

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elwesso
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I have been looking at the bosch 4+ platinum and such, and they are substantially cheaper than the NGK. Are the NGKs really that much better in terms of their performance, or is it mainly a durability issue, or a combination thereof. Also, has anyone tried using the bosch plugs and not been pleased.

I am not trying to be cheap, but id rather spend ~45 instead of ~65.

DAEDALUS
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I have read several posts about people having problems in as little as 15k miles...poor performance, rough idle, etc. In at least one case (maybe 2, memory's not great) that I read about, the tip of the spark plug actually broke off inside the combustion chamber! Who knows what kind of damage that might have caused, bunch of nicks in the piston, valves, and cylinder wall. I'd like to save $20 too, but it just isn't worth the risk on something that critical. With gas costing $2/gallon, you can save a LOT more than $20 over the next 60k by finding ways to increase your mileage. For every 1mpg better you make your car, you stand to save maybe $5-700 over the next 60k, minus what it costs to get there. New O2 sensors are good candidates, as is a thorough TB and intake cleaning.

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PalmerWMD
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Only use NGK's.No other plug will work as well in your car.

Fred...:)

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elwesso
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Ok. NGK it is, but it seems weird, because at my relatives marina, I have helped them work on stuff, and most of the NGK plugs we use are POS. We use champion, but stock NGKs because sometimes there isnt a cross reference available. Champion plugs seem to last forever, whereas the NGKs seem to keep fouling. But then again they dont use the VH45DE in their boats either (that would be sweet).

I will probably also need to replace the air filter, I assume I should go stock paper instead of a K&N. Also, I will probably want to drain the PS fluid, differential fluid, maybe change the fuel filter, and take off the TB for cleaning, and so it will make changing the plugs easier. Anything special I need to know for any of those jobs.

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97Q45t
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I bought 8 NGK PFR5G-11 plugs from a guy who sell spark plugs on Ebay for $49 shipped a couple months ago. If you want the guy's email, I could look it up.

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sijoko
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I have been using Bosch Platinum +4 on my 94 Q45 for the last 60k miles. No problems. The car runs better than with the original plugs. I do, however, take the car up to redline frequently.

maxnix
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Q45tech from http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....ht=4:

The only problem is that the +4 seem to break off electrodes [when subjected to mild knock] also the Q piston comes extremely close to the plug tips as the piston expand from heat.

We have replaced 19 +4 plugs with broken electrodes a few of which have damaged the cylinders by imbedding in the piston above the first ring.

High compression engine 10.2 to 1 with flat pistons have a tendency to build up crud on the piston tops raising the CR closer to 11 so the oem plug was what was used in the design test process..........they usually don't fail ever but need changing as the gap widens and to protect the head from galling the plug permanently in place.

The other problem with +4 is they only come in one heat range vs the oem's 4 separate temp range!

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AZhitman
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Bosch engineer even cautioned against using their plugs in the VH45DE.

That's good enough for me.

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elwesso
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Good enough for me too!!

I will probably also need to replace the air filter, I assume I should go stock paper instead of a K&N. Also, I will probably want to drain the PS fluid, differential fluid, maybe change the fuel filter, and take off the TB for cleaning, and so it will make changing the plugs easier. Anything special I need to know for any of those jobs.

reggiegsd
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I have always been surprised at how some cars will pitch fits and complain if you use the wrong plugs while other cars just don't care.

Typically, American engines just didn't care. A Chevy small block will run using a rusty nail if you put a point on it. The European cars I had in the '70s would only run with Champion plugs. Any thing else and they wouldn't even start.

When I started buying Zcars, I would always carry a fresh set of NGKs. I bought several nice Zs that just wouldn't run no matter what the owner tried. Once I bought the car (for cheap) I would swap the Champion plugs out, put the NGKs in and drive the car home. Sounds kind of cruel now.

In general, I always use NGK or Nippon Denso in Japanese cars. Autolights and Bosch work in a pinch.

Still, I've always been suprised at how sensitive some cars are to plugs.

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Chally
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NGK ONLY!!! Never had any fouling problems ever!

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elwesso
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Ill just wait and see if I can find some on ebay, they seem to have pretty good prices there.

maxnix
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Joe usually has some smoking prices.

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elwesso
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It said 8.25 on the site, can i get them cheaper if I call and say im a NICO member, or for that matter somewher else.

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AZhitman
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elwesso wrote:It said 8.25 on the site, can i get them cheaper if I call and say im a NICO member, or for that matter somewher else.


Yes - CALL Joe. He's a good guy. Tell hime you're from NICO.

MoyZQ
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Hi Fred:

You sound very knowledgeable and helpful. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I've just joined NICO and have browsed many of the interesting posts. I have a 94 Q45 with 102,000 purchased from a used car dealer about 3000 miles ago. I think the previous owner had the car dealer serviced, but I'm not sure. I suppose I'll need to do some routine maintenance soon (the oil was changed and the trans fluid seemed fresh when I bought it). So, where can I get a factory manual and what is the ebay link to Joe for the NGK plugs?

Thanks.

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AZhitman
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Joe is at infinitiparts.net (better to just call him).

Factory manual can be ordered from Joe OR better yet, find one for a 90-95 Q on eBay. Steer clear of the ones on CD.

You can get the entire dealer service history if you call ANY Infiniti dealer and give them the VIN. That'll give you a better idea of where to start.

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elwesso
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I got a service manual for my 94 and the manual is a 90, for the most part is fine, but there are things that dont quite line up. They are cheaper, and when you have this board, it is perfect.

MoyZQ
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AZhitman/elwesso:

Thanks. I checked ebay, unfortunately, only CDs are offered. So, I'll follow through with Joe at infinitiparts.net.

forecast
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Can anyone fill me in on the difference between NGK Platinum and the less expensive NGK "Laser Platinum"

NGK makes a PFR5B-11 in laser platinum, but I don't want to use it if it's going to end up being a headache.

dan

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elwesso
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I didnt know that there was something else. how much are the laser platinums, because with Joe they are 8.23 or something like that.

forecast
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Basic NGK info

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/p...m.asp

Box of four from rockauto.com - $10.48 (2.62 each vs. 8.25 each from Scotsdale Infiniti for the normal NGK platinum or $16.50! from the local dealer)

Search rockauto for ngk part #4014 for the price

dan

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elwesso
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I would still just go with OEM. Cant go wrong with what the factory put in.


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