So, PMQ.....

Post all your Nissan electronics, car audio and stereo questions here!
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audtatious
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Go 4 it

Subz have changed a bit since the first-gen JL 12w6 w/11.1mm xmax


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PoorManQ45
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Yep, they've changed quite a bit.

here's the thread

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb...59147

it'll be interesting to watch that one. Alot of people over there thing JL is gods gift to the world.

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audtatious
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Yeah, I'll watch it to see what's up

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Wow...I wonder what it would look like next to my 7500 MTX?? Definitely beastly looking. Be sure to update the forum on how she sounds!

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audtatious
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With only a little tuning it was sounding pretty darn good. Unfortunately I have yanked it at this point. The box, the sub and the two amps over the rear suspension + Eibach springs + 30mm G35 rims was causing the tires to rub over bumps. That's not something I am willing to deal with.

So, I will probably use this sub as a replacement for the JBL Home sub I have. The question is what to do with the car. I have a Kicker C10a in a 1.25cf sealed box that will probably fit just fine and it's a whole lot lighter than the one with the 12". If I can't get that to sound the way I want then I will probably strip the stereo out and go back to stock at this point.

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PoorManQ45
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What is the box made out of?

If it's MDF, have you considered fiberglass?

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audtatious
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Yeah, I've thought about it. Maybe I will have a better mindset for working out a plan after vacation....

It's made with 3/4" MDF and is a complex shape which means it uses 1/2 more wood than a regular square box.

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PoorManQ45
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Ah, then you definately need to use fiberglass.

My box would have weighed ~50lbs if it was MDF. Instead it weighs ~15lbs made from 'glass.

Where you going for vacation?

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audtatious
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N. Ga mountains. Full week in a nice cabin with the wife.

As far as the sub box, I think the current one (with sub, both amps and two caps) weight at least 90-100lbs.

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PoorManQ45
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Damn, that's way too heavy. IMHO the sub itself should always be the heaviest part of an install

I mean, in terms of audio vs. Car performance

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audtatious
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Yeah. Mine is complex so it uses a whole bunch more wood than a regular enclosure:

http://www.moodym.com/maxima/a....html

It works but it's too damn heavy

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I'm not sure I understand the point of the two box design. Care to explain?

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I followed someone elses design so that it would mate up better with the "hole" behind the seat. Thus the front "kick-out" for clearance and added depth.

The next box I build will have the sub back-firing anyway....

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So.....

Fiberglass enclosure. Using stretched wool, how many layers would suffice?

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Enough to pass the thumb test

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audtatious
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Gee, that helps


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Well, it depends on how large the curve radius is. The larger the radius(gentle curve) the thicker it must be.

I always put on atleast 6 layers.

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6 layers of fiberglass mat, cloth or wool? If it were fiberglass cloth I would agree but isn't wool 2-3 times thicker?

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I usually use Mat to build up.

I'll then sand everything smooth and then use cloth to finish it off.

I have never used wool before.

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Just use a carbon/kevlar blend. It will look much better. Who cares about acoustics anyways

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I would agree on mixing mat and cloth for 6 layers. Then again, when I have watched Unique Whips (yeah, I know) it seems they use thick wool with only one layer.

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So.....Decison time....

I'm working on my new enclosure and need to determine what sub to run prior to laying 'glass. I have two to choose from: TC12 or Kicker C10a

Both require the same amount of air volume. Obviously the 12 will have more "punch" and will pull 400w (2ohm parallel) off my monoblock whereas the Kicker will only pull 200w (4 ohm). So, right there we are looking at -6db down (less surface and 1/2 watts).

The issue I have with the TC is weight. It weighs 30lbs where the C10a weighs 6lbs. Weight is my enemy in this car as it is. I weighed the original enclosure I had and with the sub, amps and caps it weighed in at 95lbs . The box I am working with currently weighs 12lbs by itself without the 'glass. Conceivably, with the Kicker sub, amps and caps it could weigh less than 40lbs easy. The same box with the TC would weigh at least 60lbs+.

The Kicker is a good little 10". It's the old-school sub that I picked up in '96. If I decide to not use the TC, it will begin new life in my current home sub system so it's not a loss.

Decisionse....decisions.....

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audtatious
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Decision has been made. Going with the Kicker 10 for now

<collective groan>

The way I am doing it, I _could_ still mount the 12 with some modifications OR get a 10" DVC later on if the 10 does not satisfy my diminishing bass needs....

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PoorManQ45
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I'm confused. Are you making a box and then only glassing portions of it?

If that's the case then i'd say start over. When I do glass work the only wood in it are the rings.

My enclosure weighed in under 20lbs when all was said and done.

Also, is there anywhere up front to mount the cap and amps? Like under the front seat?

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audtatious
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No place in the cabin to mount the amps and caps. I prefer keeping everything in the trunk and together for easy removal. You don't know how nice it is to simply disconnect 5 wires and 2 sets of RCA's to remove a box.

Anyway, this is a quasi-fiberglass box. There is no problem with doing an enclosure that way at all. The bottom and "front" is wood. The front is where the caps and amps will mount. The top, sides and back will be fiberglass. I'll get some pix up. I have 1.5 layers put on at this point as I am having to do the FG mat in parts. I made the mounting section wide enough to put the 12 in at a later time if I so desire with minor modifications.

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PoorManQ45
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Here's a cool trick I made

Fiberglass over cardboard. This has the strength of about 3/4" plywood

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audtatious
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I would have done that if I didn't need a place to mount the amps and such

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Couple pix...

First pic is before I finished cleaning the box off but shows the mount. Second pic shows it after two layers of FG. I am sanding after each coat to knock off the edges. First layer was fiberglass cloth, 2nd was mesh. I will do the next layer or two in cloth to even things out just a bit and wrap the box properly. Cloth is by far easier to work with than the mesh.





After two layers, the box is appx 3.5lbs heavier. The 'glass is still somewhat "flexible".

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PoorManQ45
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I'm a little confused. Why is the box still in the shape of a box. LOL.

When I use fiberglass i mold the box into a little cubby hole to maximize air volume while taking up as little space as possible.

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The box is still a box due to where it is mounting. I did not want anything majorly custom, just smaller and primarily lighter. If I were going to corner the sub I would have used one designed for a small enclosure instead of 1.25cf . I can always upgrade to the TC 12" later or get another 10" as both should be able to work with this airspace as well (with the 10" being a dropin). Of course, I could always go ISO and add another C10a to double the power and such.

I plan on only having this car for another 2 years max. I want to be able to take it out and know it would probably fit about any other vehicle I decide to get later on. I simply hate having to reguild crap.


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