So I just bought a 91 Q45 and I have a few questions...

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Chad91Q45
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So I just bought a 91Q w/ a little under 100k miles on it. There are just about complete records on the car (it has had the chain upgrade and the transmission cooling done to it). Even has receipts for oil changes (just about) every 3000 miles.

There are no real immediate things that need to be done, however I do have a few questions.

1) I am getting a message "tail light inoperative" and I have a rear side marker that is burnt out. First, would that cause the message to come up, and second, how do you replace the rear side marker? I picked up the bulbs for it, but it looks rather difficult to get out. I opened up ther trunk and there are no trap doors for it, and when took out the trunk lining, it was metal behind where it would be. Do you just pop the whole assembly out, or is it an optical line that has the bulb being put in a different location?

2) I have the message "brake pads worn" but the previous owner put in new rotors and brakes ~17k miles ago(with receipt) and he said the message appeared as soon as he replaced it. Is there a way to have a mechanic whipe that message out or do I have to live with it for the duration of the car?

3) I am wanting to get a cheap front tower strut brace. Where could I get one at? I checked ebay but couldnt find any...

4) The only option that is not working is the power antena. The motor still runs, but the antena does not go up. is there an easy fix for this?

5) What else in general should I do for this car? I dont care about adding any more power, just longevity to it. What sort of options go out on this car? What sort of preventative maintence should I do? What is a good estimate for yearly maintenance costs on a car that is in great mechanical shape and has nearly complete records?

6) Finally, what upgrades actually are available? I am hoping to get a CAI and possibly a new exhaust system to let the beefy 4.5L breath easier.

Thanks and its a truly wonderful car!


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phenryiv1
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Congrats on your purchase. What did it set you back?

Chad91Q45
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After much negotiating, $2500 for the car, $90 for an independant shop to check it out and give it an A+ rating, and I am getting it registered on friday (bought it saturday and it was all closed then, and I am busy working now) which will probably cost me $200. So about $2800 all said and done.

psychic_mechanic
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Some of the guys are modding Maxima FSTB to fit, search for the details.

I think for the money a JWT (Jim Wolfe Technology) ECU and Trans controller would be your best upgrades if evrything else is in order.

Tokico blue shocks and Eibach springs would be a good place to start for the suspension.

Congratulations on the purchase of the best car you're going to get for under 3k.

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phenryiv1
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Chad91Q45 wrote:After much negotiating, $2500 for the car, $90 for an independant shop to check it out and give it an A+ rating, and I am getting it registered on friday (bought it saturday and it was all closed then, and I am busy working now) which will probably cost me $200. So about $2800 all said and done.


Under $3K with under 100000 miles, AND the chain guides were done? Great find!

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elwesso
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Chad... Congrats on finding such a nice Q... VERY rare to find a 90-93 with the guides done... GREAT find!

1. Ill check my manual but I seem to recall you just pop them out... Maybe Im thinking about the front ones but I cant remember off hand... Like I said if someone doesnt chime in Ill check the manual to be srue...

The tail light inoperative message: I hate this system on the Q... Most of the time it can be fixed by using OEM bulbs, which can be had from one of our fine sponsors at the left. I prefer everythinginfiniti... Call 18882165328 and talk to Joe, and be sure you tell him your a NICO member!!!

Anyway there are sensors that detect the amount of current draw from the bulbs..... When its out of spec the computer reads they are not working, and most times can be eliminated by using the OEM bulbs because osme after market bulbs draw different amounts of power.....

2. This is common and there is a sensor on the pads that detects when they are worn, unfortunately when they get that worn they are much passed their designed life... Most members here bypass them by shorting them out (twist the wires together..)

3. You can get them from ebay, from a 2000 and up Maxima... Check out http://www.q45.org (mine and Jesda's website) for an article on how to do this. I ahve it on my Q and it put me out $25, which the next best thing is the stillen for $100..... For the results it gave me Im glad I didnt spend the $100!

4. Easy fix. I did a writeup sans pictures, but basically what you gotta do is take out the antenna motor (3 bolts just behind the passenger side trunk cladding), get out al the old belt and reinstall a new mast... Search for ANTENNA MAST. PRoblem is after a long time the nylon belt on the mast breaks.. Theyre like $10 from Joe and it took me 30 mins tops to fix.....

5. OIf you keep all the fluids fresh (oil, transmission, PS, brake, Diff), add a transmission cooler (which has been done), and keep up on maintenance you should be good... What kind of service history does the car have..... You may be ready to do the 60k service (air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs [which i sell], etc)... Later you may be interested in doing the plenum and changing the hoses and knock sensors [which i sell]/harness... Making sure this car is running tip top is the key..

ANother thing you may consider is a 93 or 94 TCU to eliminate the 2nd gear start of the 90-93 Q.. The 93 has the first gear start with your transmission, and the 94 does as well but there are different gera ratios, but Ive heard from members that a 94 TCU works great with a 90-93 trany and ECU

6. Upon reading the previous posts (you HAVE done that, right? :) ) youll find that the intake and exhaust, especially the intake are as optimized form the factory as you can get... Treat yourself to a new OEM air filter every year and be happy! Dont do any intake mods EXCEPT those board approved (read AZhitmans CAI mod)... Ive done something similar to AZ except on the front air horn my piece of cladding was missing so its right in the high pressure area... Not as effective on the 90-93 with the grilless design.. id say leave it be and dont fret about a 1HP (max) difference youll get!

BRM and AZhitman have made a full stainless steel exhaust system for the Q and its mighty golden..... However upon further reading youll find the stock is VERY high flow and basically the only restrction is in the rear resonator and that can be easily upgraded..... not to knock on BRM exhaust or anything, but I personally dont see the need to spend $700 on somthing youll get the same improvements for $300 by just changing the rear resonator... It may sound better and if thats what your after, by all means..... Not what I would do to my Q though!!!!

Welcome to NICO!!!!

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elwesso
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I also agree with psychic mechanic, get your suspension good with new rubber, tokico shocks, etc...

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Q451990
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Do you have the owner's manual for the car? Surprisingly, it has very detailed instructions for bulb replacement. Also, check under the mat in the trunk, and in the compartment between the rear speakers and see if you can find a small copy of the service manual that came with the car from the factory.

The side markers shouldn't cause the message you see on the dash. Look for burnt out bulbs and melted lead tips on the bulbs or corrosion in the bulb sockets. The best fix is to replace the socket assemblies (about $15 each from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com) and bulbs with factory OEM bulbs. Many aftermarket bulbs apparently pull more current causing the sockets to overheat.

Welcome to NICO! Sounds like you got a super deal on the car! Some folks here spend almost that much just to get the chain guides replaced.

Heath

Chad91Q45
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Yes, I have a service manual (thick 3 inch one) as well as a smaller one for a 95 (no idea why the guy had it, but he gave it as well)

Thanks for the heads up on the exhaust system. I used to have a 92 maxima SE (well, I still have it but its totaled... real sob story involved in that, got hit by an uninsured motorist, she was indian, it was on an indian res so she was not required to have insurance, i was given a ticket but judge threw it out, insurance said i was at fault even though they did not investigate scene... pretty much I just got screwed big time) and I was used to having a very restrictive airflow so I just assumed that nissan wasnt too good about that (glad to hear that I am wrong, though).

The 60k tune up was done at 64k miles by the original owner (once again, with receipt... this guy kept imaculate records). And thanks for the link elwesso, very informative site that is now bookmarked :-). Love to see that easy link to get myself some cupholders now! I have tried to read relevant past posts, but it gets rather overwhelming to search through them all if you know what I mean.

If I had a digital camera (I must be one of the last 4 remaining people in the US without one...) I would put up some pics. It is the pearl/cream color with the tan interior (back seat is perfect, passenger is pretty good, minor leather wear on the drivers, but I can live with it).

One other question. My car has the HICAS system and I was wondering how it turns on. Driving the car home (it was about 150 free way miles) it turned on (without me doing anything as far as I know). I stopped for gas after about 100 miles (and to check all my fluids, make sure nothing happened without me knowing.... always extremely cautious on a new car) and after I started back up it didnt turn back on.

Chad91Q45
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Oh, yet another question. I have read that the stock speakers (as with my maxima) were Bose. I know the rear speakers are Infinity on mine and I was just wondering if the original years were Inifinity and then they went to Bose or if mine are after market. Also, did infiniti do that strange 4 amp set up that the maximas had? I am going to eventually upgrade my entire system (basically swap out the audio from my maxima into my Q) and I am hoping to avoid all the strangeness that was in teh Maxima stock set up.

One last question (for this moment). I am going to want a spare key, but the key is rather unique. Do I have to go to an infiniti dealership (about 60 miles from where I live) or are other places able to get the blanks (seems quite unlikely...). Also (assuming i need to go to an infiniti dealer) how much would a spare be likely to cost?

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Q451990
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The Q came with a Bose system from the factory. Each speaker has it's own amplifier... very similar to your Max. I had a 91 Maxmia, so I'm familar with both systems.

Some locksmiths can cut new keys for you, but you'll just have to call around to find one. Some dealerships can cut aftermarket keys for you, but others will only order by the VIN. If you have to purchase a new factory one it's about $100.

Heath

Chad91Q45
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alright, thanks. Looks like I will have to take the door panels off and see what is under there as well. Since my back speakers are already infinity, I will probably just keep them as is.

Those bose systems have to be the most infuriating thing that nissan does..... just have to ask why!

Chad91Q45
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So apparently my Dad last night was able to get a key cut for $25 (I am a college student working the summer about 100 miles away from home, so I kept the car there since it was not registered) from a locksmith, so that is one problem down.

As a question for the belt on the antenna, does it have to be an infiniti part? It would seem as though there would be other belts out there that would fit as well that I could pick up locally so I would not have to wait for shipping and all that...

I picked up some more Mequire Gold liquid wax to give my car the shine, and some chrome shiner stuff as well. Going to try and make this car look as pretty as can be!

And I am still interesting in how HICAS works. Could someone post a link for that?

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elwesso
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Just get it from Joe..... get it done right the first time, its only like $10 and shipping even at overnight will be nominal.....

HICAS doesnt really do anything, IMHO. It only moves the rear wheels a few degrees at higher speeds.....

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PalmerWMD
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elwesso wrote:Just get it from Joe..... get it done right the first time, its only like $10 and shipping even at overnight will be nominal.....

HICAS doesnt really do anything, IMHO. It only moves the rear wheels a few degrees at higher speeds.....


And also at lower speeds to improve turn radius.

Fred..:)

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PalmerWMD
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Chad91Q45 wrote:So apparently my Dad last night was able to get a key cut for $25 (I am a college student working the summer about 100 miles away from home, so I kept the car there since it was not registered) from a locksmith,


Good deal!.When you are lucky enough to find one that actually carries the blank its usually $35 which is the price I found in 2 seperate cases for 2 cars.

Fred..:)

Chad91Q45
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Alright, thank you both very much!

I will hopefully have time to work on the car this weekend and get to tinkering around with everything and maybe give an update or two about how great this car is :-)

maxnix
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PalmerWMD wrote:And also at lower speeds to improve turn radius.

Fred..:)
Does it really? With 1° or less deflection, it would be unmeasurable.

Chad91Q45
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Eerrrrg! So my mom took my car for a drive today(without my permission i might add) and apparently just pulled the sun visor down without hitting the little button and she thinks she broke it...

What sort damage is likely to be done from something like this? And how much would a new visor be likely to set me back?

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elwesso
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That sucks because thats a LOT of labor to get that thing off... You have to take of that entire assembly in the front and replace the sunvisors which are like $70 each.....

squeefoo
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Welcome! Change ALL the brake fluid and the power steering fluid. So you don't cause leaks in the steering rack or the ABS unit, both expensive! (good PM for anything) FSTB from a '02 Maxima requires a little trimming and an extra hole to fit, mine was $14.00 from EBAY. Also look for leaking bushings (slimy clear stuff). Upper tranverse links wear out -(acts like an upper control arm but easy to replace). Before you do anything do a search here and look it over first. The antenna is easy, unscrew the collar, turn on the radio, lift it out, noting the orientation, then slide the gear strip in 'til it stops, then turn off the radio, screw on the collar, done! Forget the CAI (it isn't --you'll lose power--except Hitman's works). Listen for fuel pump noises, many go out here around your mileage (change the fuel filter). When you rip out the stereo put it on B/S/T here some guys love 'em. Don't mean to scare you, hope this helps!

BTW: Your Q is just like my Dad's

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PalmerWMD
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maxnix wrote:Does it really? With 1° or less deflection, it would be unmeasurable.


its not a lot but its more than 1 degree.

Fred..

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elwesso
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Just so yo uknow, i looked it up in the manual, and the system has a total of 6mm of movement.. 3mm from center to left/right...

To put that in perspective, the steering rack (front) has 66mm stroke, or 33mm of movement from center to left/right.....

maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:The HICAS moves minutely less than 1/4 " TOTAL [1/8" to right and left is maximum].
¼" is about 6 mm range of movement. Not sure if it is engaged under 10 mph. Still no help parking.

Doing the math, it is pretty darn near 1°.

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Jesda
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Now I've officially heard two things about HICAS on the Q from knowledgeable people -- that it DOES operate at low speeds, and that it does not!

-Jesda

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elwesso
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From what I can tell from the FSM, it DOES NOT operate at low speeds...

When testing, you raist the engine speed to 2000 RPM.... Thus, that makes me thing that you have to be above 40-50mph for it to do anything

By reading this ive learned just how HICAS does really NOTHING...... Its a shame they put this on and theres only 3mm of travel.....

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Highway Q45
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elwesso wrote:From what I can tell from the FSM, it DOES NOT operate at low speeds...

When testing, you raist the engine speed to 2000 RPM.... Thus, that makes me thing that you have to be above 40-50mph for it to do anything

By reading this ive learned just how HICAS does really NOTHING...... Its a shame they put this on and theres only 3mm of travel.....


The Hicas does not work at low speeds as in parking lots, etc. It does provide a certain stability at higher speeds for on ramps, lane changes,etc. A friend has driven mine compared to his 93 w/o Hicas and he says he can really feel it especially on sudden lane changes or hazard avoidance...these cars are very tail happy and I think the designers used Hicas to prevent this to some degree. If it's working that good, if it's not working it will default to normal rear alignment specs.

maxnix
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It is very subtle, and I will defer to Elwesso and Q45tech on its low speed operation. But it is most definitely not designed to enhance parking like quadrasteer. It is designed to set the rear end of the car properly for turn-in at speed.

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elwesso
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Agreed...

And thats some interesting stuff highwayQ45... I guess thats all its for is to make the rear more STABLE and not really have any handling benefits other than this... In my opinion I think HICAS is something thats nice to have but I wouldnt spend any extra money on it... It would be cool if it had more travel, then we could have cars going down the road sideways without breaking traction... :)

HOWEVER, IMHO if thats what its used for I think TCS is more effective.. A few weeks ago it was POURING, and as I was getting on the on ramp I was going a touch (ok way) too fast as I was making the turn... I felt the back end slide a little, but TCS kicked in and prevented me from otherwise possibly making a 180 and ruining a good day...

TCS may have saved a life there, or a Q45... But I digress...

maxnix
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Ah, but I like the instantaneous correction demanded by Michelins and too much throttle (really, any throttle) precipitating snap oversteer when accelerating out of a turn in the rain!

I never notice this problem on my wife's FY33 with the SZ50-EP because the TC is on by default, and the Firestones are just way stickier in the rain. I just wonder why everyone else is going so slow when I drive it in the wet.


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