Slept On Transmission Maintenance/Preventive... "Told ya so" and "What's next?"

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BLACKonBLACK98
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I have been holding off on a transmission flush/external cooler and filter install until I put the Q down for it's next round of mods. This should have been done a week or so ago, however the part for my LS is taking an insanely long time to show up (when bargain shopping goes bad).

So yesterday afternoon I notice something a little off, but I was off the highway and couldn't pinpoint it. Later in the evening I head back across town. I was on the freeway playing a moderately paced game of follow the leader with an S55 (sex) and a Y33 when the problem became painfully clear. No 3rd gear. $%&! So after a short roadside pit stop to get temperatures down I ride the feeder the remainder of the way.

Upon arrival at my warehouse space I not only get to take care of what it was I came to do, I also get to reassemble my LS which I had, conveniently enough, partially disassembled earlier that day. #$%&!

I make it home and somehow manage to forget about it long enough to go to sleep.

Which brings us to this morning: game plan time. After a little searching and some FSM studying I come up with these options:

1) Run through the diagnostics, check/replace electrical components, etc. Not really a fan of this option because even in the best case scenario I'm back to square one (functioning transmission of unknown history).

2) OEM reman. No explanation needed. Even if the problem is elsewhere it's a clean slate. Buuut...

3) Performance rebuild. Naturally, I like this choice. A little more expensive but at this point who cares? So I call ITP and ask some very basic questions. I explain that I am not looking to hold big power but would like firmer shifts, increased reliability, etc. They say they do that. Sounds like a plan.

While not terribly inconvenient, as the car was going down for more work soon anyway, it has upped the ante considerably. What was going to be a nap will now be a coma.

Fire at will.


qship96
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Car: 1996 Infiniti Q45

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Does the rest of the car warrant investing $3000 for a factory rebuilt transmission?...... How is the engine running? Timing chain guides replaced? air conditioning system? paint/interior? etc etc Now is the time to step back and create a list of worn/failing parts and subsystems and the total investment needed to restore .....then decide if a almost 20 year old car is worth sinking that amount of money into- you are at the fork of the road,as they say.

BLACKonBLACK98
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Car: Q45, LS400, STS-V
Location: Houston, TX

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the car absolutely warrants the cost. i bought this car with the intention of an all out project from day 1.

i am considerably past the fork. in the year i've owned it i've racked up $13k+ in repairs and modifications (original purchase price: $900), most out of necessity. it ran accordingly, with only a couple relatively minor issues to address. i wouldn't turn back if i could. i really like this car and don't think you could show me a car i would prefer vs. an equal amount into it.

so with this, the build-as-you-go daily driven q is dead and the all out show/weekend toy q is now underway.
Modified by BLACKonBLACK98 at 12:24 PM 6/16/2009

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Rex
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To be completely honest, investigate the 5 Speed manual swap. ALL it's costs (short, long and fabrication) are more favorable than a $3k OEM unit from Infiniti. I say this having been down the $3k route.

maxnix
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Even the Level10 rebuilds haeve been problematic for some.

Maintain and restore first, modify second is the prime lesson of NICO.

BLACKonBLACK98
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Rex wrote:To be completely honest, investigate the 5 Speed manual swap. ALL it's costs (short, long and fabrication) are more favorable than a $3k OEM unit from Infiniti. I say this having been down the $3k route.
i have no interest in a manual transmission. thank you for your experienced input though.

BLACKonBLACK98
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maxnix wrote:Even the Level10 rebuilds haeve been problematic for some.

Maintain and restore first, modify second is the prime lesson of NICO.
i preach the same message. nearly every dollar i've spent, whether modification or oem repair, has been addressing something that was broken.

unfortunately, i tried to stretch this maintenance to fit my time frame. i was going to have the bg exchange done on my way to my space, where the cooler and external filter would have been added. had my lexus part arrived on time this would have been done last week. oh well, lesson learned and little harm done.

i plan on going with ipt rather than level ten. my train of thought is the oem transmission is a known weak link, might as well give an upgrade a shot.

maxnix
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Then call Joe to obtain the Nissan remanufactured one then return your core for a partial refund.

Install the rear main seal, third motor mount, and exhaust hangers also.

I think a turbine speed sensor comes with new tranmission.

maxnix
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BLACKonBLACK98 wrote:i plan on going with ipt rather than level ten. my train of thought is the oem transmission is a known weak link, might as well give an upgrade a shot.
If you consider 173K with only .5 sec. increase in shift times a weak link (Q45tech documentedmaintenance and measured performance).

I think someone did install an IPT, but can't remember who. Just understand what Nissan replaces on their calibrated production line and what most don't unless you specify. Budget about $5K for complete rebuild.

BLACKonBLACK98
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the ipt rebuild runs $3.5k, but i think $4-5k is probably fair including associated small parts/sensors that may need to be replaced. we'll know soon enough i guess.

Victor
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So by the time you are finished you will have nearly $17,000 invested in a car with a market value of around $2000 or less? Shows you have to make your decision early in the game as to when its time to cut your losses and stop throwing good money after bad.

maxnix
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Yeah, little things like completely remanufactured solenoids tend to be omitted.

Wishh I could remember who got the IPT, but it might have been just a discussion. Kevlar clutches do sound nice.

BLACKonBLACK98
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Victor wrote:So by the time you are finished you will have nearly $17,000 invested in a car with a market value of around $2000 or less? Shows you have to make your decision early in the game as to when its time to cut your losses and stop throwing good money after bad.
my decision was made long before i bought the car. i decided that the g50 was the car i wanted to build knowing (or at least having an idea of) the cost involved. this isn't something i just stumbled into.

maxnix
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Victor wrote:So by the time you are finished you will have nearly $17,000 invested in a car with a market value of around $2000 or less? Shows you have to make your decision early in the game as to when its time to cut your losses and stop throwing good money after bad.
One should never confuse market value with value to the owner.

What would you rather drive for even $17K than a perfectly restored G50 Q45?

I can't think of anything.

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jltibbs
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maxnix wrote:One should never confuse market value with value to the owner.

What would you rather drive for even $17K than a perfectly restored G50 Q45?

I can't think of anything.
Could not agree with you more. Mike definitely pays attention to detail in mods AND maintenance. Do what you do bro.

silkysmoothyjud
Posts: 410
Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 1:08 pm
Car: 1994 Q45

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I second that, I spent countless hours in research on this site and in the restoration of just about every wear and tear part on Niqole (except the alt ). I even repaced the steering wheel and leather seat covers. This site saved me a shxx ton of money. I am sorry to hear your transmission is doing that. I am approaching 200k, I am afraid my OEM original is gonna go soon. I am afraid to pull the dipstick much less do a transmission flush, although It has never overheated. If I had your problem, I would try and flush it to see if it helps....why not???

Otherwise go for the manual transmission. Have you seen Wes' manual on Q45.org? Its totally wicked!!!
Modified by silkysmoothyjud at 10:03 PM 6/16/2009

Q45tech
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Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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One has to decide way in advance what is a reasonable annual average for vehicle M&R Tires, brakes, fluids, filters, rubber parts THEN WEAR AND TEAR HARD PARTS.

My 1990 goal was to not spend more than $2,000 per year [ for M&R] on the Q but inflation forced me to adjust that upwards

Based on the weight, power, and CLASS of the vehicle you want to drive and can afford to drive. $47,000/20 will be $2350 still under 15 cents per mile assuming 326,000 miles by January 2010.Heck the lost interest on the $38k was the same as the purchase price so the car cost $3800 per year just sitting. Insurance + tag was another $1,000.

$8,000 per year is $160,000

Obviously a vehicle has to earn it's keep, getting you to work each day and running all those life necessary errands to and from work.

Obviously on can get the same or better acceleration from a tiny turbo I4 as a large V8.

Some equate what they drive with dating and the attractiveness of dates a car delivers or the bragging rights or envy a car produces among their peers.

Real estate agents want to look successful. Warren Buffet drives older cars, lives in the same house he bought in 1958 and only gets $100,000 per year in base salary.

Everything comes down to cost per mile driven [cost to own].

Many people drive cars they cannot afford to keep in as new condition.

The return to $4-$5/gallon gasoline soon will separate the V8 men from the I4 boys, by adding 15-18 cents per mile.

Hopefully Obama will add a annual displacement tax or just a carbon tax for CO2 production so people can better decide what is really important to them.

I have zero experience in reselling or trading a vehicle as in 44 year of driving I have always given them away when they no longer suited me.

Victor
Posts: 515
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Saw this ad on the Recycler. 1990 Q45 with a new transmission for $1900.http://www.recycler.com/details.aspx?adid=32890261

BLACKonBLACK98
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thanks for the heads up, but i'm set as far as what i'm gonna do.

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goody90q45
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Since you've given up on your transmission and before you spend 1000's of dollars that could have been better spent on "weed, whites, wine and wild women"..... consider investing $8 in a bottle of Lubeguard Black and see if it doesn't melt some of the varnish that's probably plugging up the shift solenoids. A 30 minute chemical flush is great but having a low concentration of a chemical cleaner in the fluid afterwards if it's still not right ensures that the cleaning process continues.

I'd given up on my random "no shift out of first" problem in the 94Q and a few weeks after adding the Lubeguard the remainder of the varnish dissolved and she's still shifting great.

On both Q's I now drain and fill the transmission fluid (< 4 qts.) with every engine oil change. Unfortunately we've all inherited problems from previous owner's lack of maintenance.

maxnix
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Texasoil specifically advises against Lubeguard Black. So does Q45tech.

~6 .0z. of Lubeguard Red is recommended for RE04 with M1 fill.

Q45tech
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LUBEGUARD RED as the black will be too slick and cause lockup clutch problems in 3rd and 4th gears.

For those with a neglected education level in chemistry and turbology, I suggest you make some varnish with ATF and try things that will remove it.Unfortunately you will find the need for petrochemical solvents.

The Quick Cleans use a low boiling point solvent so in a short time in summer heat the solvent will partially evaporate [up and out the top vent tube] in a 174+F ATF. They did this to protect against the typical vehicle owner who migh not read and follow directions precisely.

The point is to dissolve the VARNISH and drain it out along with used and abused old ATF.

This can be accomplished with multiple short sequence pan drains as most have pointed out 90% is better than nothing.Heck 50% is better than nothing even 30% [single pan drain] as Lexus does work somewhat.

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goody90q45
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I stand corrected. (Thanks)

BLACKonBLACK98
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i may have a go at resuscitating it... i dunno. i don't really want to have something that could fail at any time but at the same time i could live without spending a few thousand.

silkysmoothyjud
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Car: 1994 Q45

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ANYTHING could fail at any time with a car. They are all here today gone tomorrow. Buts thats why I chose to restore a Q45, the engine is solid as a rock and so is the transmission. I did not want to do a restore and then have to drop the $$$ on a major repair. Ill bet its a clogged or something. MERC III will last 350k easy if you don't overheat it. Its only rated at 100k to compensate for other failures (i.e. water pump, hoses) that cause over heating. Heat will kill it, I would not drive it until you figure it out.....

BLACKonBLACK98
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i left it at the shop that day.

the engine cooling system is good, new water pump not long ago and never gets hot (other than running it in 2nd gear on the highway for a few miles, got hot quick).

we'll see though. i have decided to do a bg flush, multiple pan drops, new filter, m1 syn w/ lubegard, and the cooler/external filter. i should have just done it a long time ago.

silkysmoothyjud
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I hope you left it with someone you trust. Those goodwrench shops love to "work" on those Q's. It another factor to consider when a Q transmission has failed before 300k.

The only problems I have with Niqole are things that I have done when trying to fix it, but I fixed it, thanks to this site. I am scared to death to let any shop around here even gaze at her. Dobbs only got the wheels when I got new tires. Had it been a ford, I would have been walking a long time ago. Overheat in second gear? ATF caramelized to varnish the solenoid.

New water pump? Did your car cry like a baby (out of that hole) when it started to go bad? (172k OEM original) I almost cried too, poor Niqole. Did the previous owner try and "flush it" before hand? BG flush is an excellent choice. I personally dont think you will have anything to worry about as long as you trust who is doing it. Good luck.

I have pulled my NICO ECU, 800$ in tickets is a bad thing. No tiny kiddie turbo has come even close to her on the highway. Even when it comes up next to her at full throttle. I cant afford the tickets right now.140 in a 70 mph zone in the Chesterfield Valley southbound hwy 40 free-for-all, paced at "90+" by a detective....Im lucky I didnt go to jail. Totally broke, done for now.
Modified by silkysmoothyjud at 11:42 PM 6/20/2009

BLACKonBLACK98
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the shop i mentioned is my "shop".

up until this point my repairs were handeled by an experienced q mechanic (owns a couple, maintains a couple more) for lack of appropriate space. from here on out i will be taking care of it myself, with the comfort of knowing i have a back up plan.

the water pump was replaced as a "while we're in here" type deal. i think the pulley might have been making some noise. i don't recall exactly.

the 2nd gear overheat was a result of 3rd gear going out as i tried to limp it somewhere, so it was an effect rather than a cause. never had any issues before that.

hopefully i can rehabilitate the transmission, but it's really a "might as well try before i spend a lot of money" situation. if i can't get it right i'll just drop the cash on a high performance rebuild.

silkysmoothyjud
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Please keep us posted up to 3 months after the flush to see if the flush lasts the "detergent" test of time. BG flushes are supposedly meant for older cars. I have never done one, but plenty of people on this site swear by them. I have had similar probs with several old cars before and based on my experience, there is a 99% chance its just a fluid/varnish issue. I had seal leaks in one car and the other ones, I siphoned the fluid out of the dipstick one quart per month so that I did not shock it (chrysler/dodge).But for future referenece, IMHO flush at 60k and if one does not overheat it; if it doesnt whine, slip or lock up in a gear (dont redline it while stuck in a gear) DONT F WITH IT!!!!

Modified by silkysmoothyjud at 9:52 AM 6/21/2009

Modified by silkysmoothyjud at 9:54 AM 6/21/2009
Modified by silkysmoothyjud at 10:07 AM 6/21/2009

TBrack
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silkysmoothyjud wrote:I have pulled my NICO ECU, 800$ in tickets is a bad thing. No tiny kiddie turbo has come even close to her on the highway. Even when it comes up next to her at full throttle. I cant afford the tickets right now.140 in a 70 mph zone in the Chesterfield Valley southbound hwy 40 free-for-all, paced at "90+" by a detective....Im lucky I didnt go to jail. Totally broke, done for now.
Sorry to thread-jack, but are you interested in selling this NICO ECU???


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