Should I Turbo???? Poll

[Ranga14]

trade in your A/C when the new 2012 remodels hit the market...get it in manual and then BOOOST

That's hoping they keep the internals the same. WHO knows what they'll do to it really. Make and AWD SER version.

That's the only reason I'd upgrade.

[obstacle]

trade in your A/C when the new 2012 remodels hit the market...get it in manual and then BOOOST

Ok everyone I will not be trading my AC in at all...ever.. Im buying a IS-F lexus in 2 years, so I wont be trading in my coupe for anything Ive done to much work to it... I will consider a Manny swap depending on how others go... (Cough Cough) person in TX... lol

just putting it out there brah. everyone can change their minds when one sees what options are avaiable

[DReed86]

Yeah here you... Ive just put so much time and effort into my car I cant bring myself to trade it in.

[CoupeVQ35CVT]

While it might be advantageous to trade it in if the pay-off and trade in value are not too upside down for a left over 2010 3.5 model (yah good luck), I don't like the fact that the newer Coupes starting in '10 are about 60 lbs heavier. It might not seem like much, but it's just ridiculous that a 2 dr car should weigh more and more, especially when it's already a fatty at ~3300 lbs. The old 3.5 is CVT 3268 lbs or so, and the newer ones, CVT and 6mt, both are over 3300 lbs.

[Mr.Coupe]

Did blake blow his transmission???

They all did! Blake, Ricky

My transmission NEVER BLEW. The problem with the CVT is the damn pressure control silenoid and torque converter. There was another CVT owner that installed a SFR here in CA @ low boost I believe 5psi and I haven't hear a problem from him and it's been months maybe even a year.

Ricky C.

[dldjros69]

My transmission NEVER BLEW. The problem with the CVT is the damn pressure control silenoid and torque converter. There was another CVT owner that installed a SFR here in CA @ low boost I believe 5psi and I haven't hear a problem from him and it's been months maybe even a year.

Ricky C.

By blew i ment not running or broken.

Dang Dave you need alot of help. Anybody else id flame to death haha. Maybe we can meet up and take u for a spin. Like i always tell people i hardly EVER go into boost. Going into Boost requiers you to spool the turbo. Spooling the turbo makes the car fly - then u go into boost and it launches. The powers there when ya need it. Once you get on it, it spools really quick less than a second to go up to 9 psi but you can tell there is a lag.

[DReed86]

My transmission NEVER BLEW. The problem with the CVT is the damn pressure control silenoid and torque converter. There was another CVT owner that installed a SFR here in CA @ low boost I believe 5psi and I haven't hear a problem from him and it's been months maybe even a year.

Ricky C.

I saw u ran your CVT at 7psi's how long were you driving your car at that psi's for?? Did you really push your car of just drive it normally? Ricky is there anything that you would recomend I get for the CVT to ensure I dont blow???

[DReed86]

Dang Dave you need alot of help. Anybody else id flame to death haha. Maybe we can meet up and take u for a spin. Like i always tell people i hardly EVER go into boost. Going into Boost requiers you to spool the turbo. Spooling the turbo makes the car fly - then u go into boost and it launches. The powers there when ya need it. Once you get on it, it spools really quick less than a second to go up to 9 psi but you can tell there is a lag.

Dude maybe if you came to the 2 other shows that I came to in PA I could have checked out ur car.... Well next time Im in PA im calling you up (ps I need your number, message me on facebook), and Im going to really see what a turbo is like!!!!

[dldjros69]

whoops im really lame haha. i had no idea what they were like either. My boy turboed his 1.8l vw golf. he drove it way to fast and hard. i was pretty much scared the whole time. 0-90-brakes-90-brakes ugh

[Ranga14]

By blew i ment not running or broken.

Dang Dave you need alot of help. Anybody else id flame to death haha. Maybe we can meet up and take u for a spin. Like i always tell people i hardly EVER go into boost. Going into Boost requiers you to spool the turbo. Spooling the turbo makes the car fly - then u go into boost and it launches. The powers there when ya need it. Once you get on it, it spools really quick less than a second to go up to 9 psi but you can tell there is a lag.

Nice post... Yeah, daily driving and especially in traffic, you'll never boost unless you're being stupid. The only time I do is when I'm out playing around later in the evening with little to no cars on the road. But that's getting a little more rare lately since I'm replacing my worn to s*** brakes, get em in tomorrow, can't wait.

[DReed86]

The problem with the CVT is the damn pressure control silenoid and torque converter.
Ricky C.

So how exactly are these parts compromised by the turbo??? Is it to much pressure or to much torque?? Someone please explain... I thought it was a heat issue with the CVT?

Ranga did you get the ebay brakes you were talking about???

[Ranga14]

Heat kills the pressure control silenoid while too much torque kills the torque converter.

And no, I went with the Stillen sport rotors and free pads since they had a 5% off special.

[Mr.Coupe]

I saw u ran your CVT at 7psi's how long were you driving your car at that psi's for?? Did you really push your car of just drive it normally? Ricky is there anything that you would recomend I get for the CVT to ensure I dont blow???

I ran 7psi for a few months... i'd say about 6. I would really push my car hard at times when I had the chance and open road with no cops around. A transmission cooler is a must when boosting a CVT other than that there isn't much that can be done to ensure it wont blow just low boost and having a light foot.

The problem with the CVT is the damn pressure control silenoid and torque converter.
Ricky C.

So how exactly are these parts compromised by the turbo??? Is it to much pressure or to much torque?? Someone please explain... I thought it was a heat issue with the CVT?

Even though a transmission cooler is added the pressure control silenoid is made with a cheap plastic housing which in consequence still causes problems to it at ANY heat raise. Everything about the CVT transmission is a problem, to much boost can give the transmission to much torque causing the torque converter to take a S**T. Tim had a friend who is a transmission guru and master fab up a OEM pressure control silenoid to withstand 30% more HP and with an aluminum housing not the plastic one it comes with and still after it was installed he drove it and the problem began again after a few miles test drive. After diagnostics he found out the torque converter went bad through the test drive. I asked what can be done to have NO problems with the CVT at 7 psi and he said after a new torque converter and the new pressure sontrol silenoid installed on the cvt he could guarantee problems within a year or two WITH A LIGHT FOOT. Which is why I didn't hesitate and told him to do a transmission swap. Hope it helps bruh and if you have any questions you can PM me .

Ricky C.

[dldjros69]

^wow thats wild! What a freaken headache!

[707cali]

to the op

Boost is controlled via the wastegate. Search wastegate on wiki for full info but this is basically what it says....

Exhaust is channeled through turbo manifold into the exhaust housing of the turbo which spins the hotside turbine which spins the cold side turbine (compressor) and forces air into the piping/intercooler. The way a wastegate works is inside the wastegate there is a spring that is set at a certain psi, 5, 7, 9, 15, 20 etc etc etc. What happens is when the wategate reaches the set spring pressure (say 5psi) via the vacuum line attached to it it forces the wastegate open. The wastegate is placed in the turbo manifold before the actual hotside part of the turbo. So basically the wategate bleeds of exhaust pressure/gasses so that it does not reach the hotside turbine and force more air into the motor. There are boost controllers that can hide pressure from the wastegate and you can raise boost accordingly by essentially closing the boost controller (manual boost controller) Or if it is an electronic boost controller there is an electronic solenoid that closes/opens according to what you tell it to do (target psi).


There is more factors that play into it but that is basically how and why a turbo works

[dldjros69]

Thats a nice write up and all. But nothing is a substitute to takin a turboed car out for a spin. There is so much goin on.

For instance, last night i took my car to 9psi really low in the rpms (4th gear 2300). The car laughed at me and didnt do anything. If i took it to 9 psi at 4500 rpms the car would have launched.

[707cali]

^^^^ you realize how bad that is for the turbo/motor right??

you are putting a ton on stress on the float bearings on the turbo and not to mention the crank bearings themselves boosting at those low of rpms. A good rule of thrumb is to never boost below 3K unless ion 1rst or 2nd gear. JFY not talkin s*** or anything....

Basically thats like trying to pedal a mountain bike up a hill in high gear.

Im surprised you dont hear surging/bark doing that

[DReed86]

to the op

Boost is controlled via the wastegate. Search wastegate on wiki for full info but this is basically what it says....

Exhaust is channeled through turbo manifold into the exhaust housing of the turbo which spins the hotside turbine which spins the cold side turbine (compressor) and forces air into the piping/intercooler. The way a wastegate works is inside the wastegate there is a spring that is set at a certain psi, 5, 7, 9, 15, 20 etc etc etc. What happens is when the wategate reaches the set spring pressure (say 5psi) via the vacuum line attached to it it forces the wastegate open. The wastegate is placed in the turbo manifold before the actual hotside part of the turbo. So basically the wategate bleeds of exhaust pressure/gasses so that it does not reach the hotside turbine and force more air into the motor. There are boost controllers that can hide pressure from the wastegate and you can raise boost accordingly by essentially closing the boost controller (manual boost controller) Or if it is an electronic boost controller there is an electronic solenoid that closes/opens according to what you tell it to do (target psi).


There is more factors that play into it but that is basically how and why a turbo works

Thanks for the explination Ricky and 707.

707 do you have a turbo?

[707cali]

707 do you have a turbo?

not on the altima.

Ive owned lots of boosted cars though. 94 rx-7 (450+whp) 05 sentra spec V (that I built and boosted), 04 SRT-4 (highest WHP stock turbo in cali) + built lots of boosted civics for a couple buddies.

[DReed86]

Damn dude thats pretty sick "highest WHP SRT4" what were u at?

[707cali]

highest whp on stock unmodified turbo. absolutly no porting, no cams, stock exhaust manifold on E85 I put down 328.64WHP and 404.53TQ on a dynojet at 23psi spike and 21ish hold in 4th gear. I could have upped the boost a little more but I was already a lil lean and I didnt really have time to do any tuning. It was a dyno day so there was a long list of people waiting to go after me.

On non Z-rated street tires I ran a 12.86 @ 115.9mph at sac raceway. My best et was that 12.86 and best MPH was 117.2

With full slicks and gutting the car I should have been mid 11's with that MPH. With the street tires I would spin until 90ish mph unless I was feathering the throttle. Best 60ft I could get was a 2.28... thats a horrilbe 60ft lol! With full slicks it would be easy to pull a 1.8x with full interior. I just never got around to barrowing some slicks....

Heres my dyno vid. The smoke is from the BBQ not my car!! lol
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xbjPR2_ ... r_embedded[/youtube]

[devilmagic]

dam nice videos..

[DReed86]

The problem with the CVT is the damn pressure control silenoid and torque converter.
Ricky C.

So after researching the pressure control silenoid that looks close to impossible to replace without some major work.... So lets just hope with the EVC I can control my foot and not destory my car.

[DReed86]

Ok another question does anyone know at what temperature the Pressure Control Silenoid would blow/over-heat/explode/insert verb?

Is it like 200, 220, 250?? thanks

[707cali]

there is no set temp at which it will go, milage how hard the motor/trans has had to work in the past all play a part in it.

IMO I would not ever go over 230. I believe "oils" began to break down and boil around 250-270 depending on what kind of oil.

[DReed86]

Alright Cool!!

Thanks Im still waiting for my parts list, Ill post it as soon as I get it!

[Ranga14]

Average temp for a CVT from what I recall reading was 200-220 and 240+ is bad.

With the cooler and no getting on it, mine stays at 160, plus or minus 10 degrees.

When getting on it, 180-195. I've yet to actually hit 200.