should i run this knock sensor?

[poshatch]

i pulled this knock sensor off another one of my engines that i have laying around, this is the one i WANT to put in. the crack is what concerns me, suposedly the hairline cracks is what makes the sensor malfunction...opinions

ive been doing research and i hear that overheating and time are the two reasons knock sensors go out, im sure mine hasnt been changed since 1991 and also the car overheated pretty bad last time i was at the track so im guessing thats what did it

checked the ecu code....34 knock sensor so im going to proceed to replace this if i get the ok from experienced people on here since i dont want to order a new one

[TheRealNap0le0n]

get a new one... thats a kick in the d!ck to replace in the car

[Chris28]

99% of the time a code 34 doesn't mean your knock sensor is bad, it means there is a short in the wiring. Google code 34 or Nissan code 34, there are a multitude of threads on the subject. One thread on zilvia links to like 7 threads about it, they are all really helpful. The short will be in your wiring harness right above the injectors. Follow the KS wiring through the harness and I bet you will find a bump in the wire, that's your short.

[poshatch]

yeah it dosnt looktoo fun to replace, i actually pulled the one in the pic in less than a minuite out of the car but thats out of the car haha. i got small hands that should help...the new knock sensors are so effing expensive! even the cheap ones at like 35 bucks i think is too much haha guess im cheap.

does the one pictured look too damaged to even bother replacing the one throwing the code? cause i just want that thing GONE...gotta pass emissions in CA and its not cool

[OM3GA]

Get a new one.

[poshatch]

99% of the time a code 34 doesn't mean your knock sensor is bad, it means there is a short in the wiring. Google code 34 or Nissan code 34, there are a multitude of threads on the subject. One thread on zilvia links to like 7 threads about it, they are all really helpful. The short will be in your wiring harness right above the injectors. Follow the KS wiring through the harness and I bet you will find a bump in the wire, that's your short.

serious! awwwwwwwwwwwww f***

ill google what you said right now and read up!

so it could be a wiring issue as another possibility...when i was pushing the engine harness into the firewall, maybe there could be a problem there as worse case...

[TheRealNap0le0n]

yeah it dosnt looktoo fun to replace, i actually pulled the one in the pic in less than a minuite out of the car but thats out of the car haha. i got small hands that should help...the new knock sensors are so effing expensive! even the cheap ones at like 35 bucks i think is too much haha guess im cheap.

does the one pictured look too damaged to even bother replacing the one throwing the code? cause i just want that thing GONE...gotta pass emissions in CA and its not cool

its there for your good... shoot i melted one off the block of my last KA by driving it for an hr overheating trying to get home... the car sounded like a diesel and shut off in the driveway.

if you dont have the knock sensor the car will default to safe amount of timing and that = less power

[poshatch]

so yeah i did what you said and went threw that google search and yeah i guess a code 34 dosnt have to mean a bad knock sensor..

ll check that the engine harness grounds are all grounded correctly then i will check to see if the knock sensor has any bad wiring issues or what not along its length or if its not grounded correctly then if it dosnt solve it ill go ahead and check above where you said on the engine harness by the injectors to see if there is a problem there and if not then i guess i got to pull the harness from the firewall and check that trouble spot where it gets fed into (worse case) if no problems i see then i guess ill order a new one and replace the knock sensor however as you said its probably a wiring issue

thanks for the help and pointing me in the right direction to find info and develope a troubleshoot

[poshatch]

its there for your good... shoot i melted one off the block of my last KA by driving it for an hr overheating trying to get home... the car sounded like a diesel and shut off in the driveway.

if you dont have the knock sensor the car will default to safe amount of timing and that = less power

hahaha i didnt mean i want the knock sensor gone! i meant the check engine light I.E. fixing the problem lol

i got to pass emmissions, there is no such thing as bullshiting them and i wouldnt s*** myself either

[TheRealNap0le0n]

werd... be sure to properly torque the knock sensor and be sure the mounting surface is babies a** clean... erm surgically clean. any rust, dirt, etc or too much torque will cause false knock

[poshatch]

ok so i pulled appart the engine harness around the injectors as suggested by chris28

this is what i discovered...i pulled the harness apart some more to see if it leads to the knock sensor i tracked it down to the three plugs that include the knock sensor. and i think the only one in that whole mess that was kinked as well ad that double wrapped thing it must be the knock sensor, i used a male and female ends and cut it right at the kink and put them togethr and tapped over it and taped it all together, reset the ecu and got 55 so hopefully this solved the problem....good thing i checked there first before i replaced it

[Chris28]

Bingo bango bongo. Thats exactly what they all look like, your problem should be fixed.

Shout out to UNISA JECS on that one, not sure if he's on Nico but his posts on Zilvia were the most helpful to me. Sorry I didn't go into further detail, I was in a rush when I posted earlier but it seems like you figured out everything you needed to. Good work!

[poshatch]

Bingo bango bongo. Thats exactly what they all look like, your problem should be fixed.

Shout out to UNISA JECS on that one, not sure if he's on Nico but his posts on Zilvia were the most helpful to me. Sorry I didn't go into further detail, I was in a rush when I posted earlier but it seems like you figured out everything you needed to. Good work!

na man i got what you were saying so i knew what i was looking for and where when i went into it...shocked that even happens

hopefully the connection is good enough to transmit the info but if not i know what the issue is from now on. thanks.

no light so far! goonna drive it a week before i go to smog it just to be sure all the bugs are gone

[poshatch]

so the light was off for awhile but now it just came back on. so im thinking that the connection in the harness isnt that great but i thought it would be ok im guessing it only wnet off because i reset the ecu but the problem wasnt solved..i clearly saw the short in the harness so i guess its just not getting a good connection so ill probably got to unwrap it, re-do it , and re wrap it again

and now im throwing a 32 code as well which it wasnt doing before and 32 is the egr valve i think??

any suggestions about this one

and one more question that i was pondering earlier today...is it possible to reset the ecu before a smog and take it in for the smog? will they even know? its obd1 so they cant check it..it will pass visual cause i got all the egr stuff and connected and i dont think the code 32 would affect much, the car runs great and i think it should pass the sniffer test so would this plan work?????????????????????????

[motoman399]

even if the wiring is your problem, get a new knock sensor. i paid 15 off ebay for an oem nissan one! NEW NEW NEW

[poshatch]

even if the wiring is your problem, get a new knock sensor. i paid 15 off ebay for an oem nissan one! NEW NEW NEW

lol ill frequent ebay to see if i can find one, nissan knock sensors are pretty universal so it shouldnt be difficult.

i just know that its an auto no test with the light on so the reseting the ecu solves that problem. the car runs good, gonna seafoam it and get the cat good and hot before taking it there so it should pass sniffer and all the egr is there and connected undamaged so it should pass visual so im going to keep my fingers crossed otherwise if something happens ill replace the egr with another one i have and then also get the new knock sensor otherwise ill replace hte knock sensor a bit later

i just dont know why its now deciding to trip. its all the same stuff just in a different chasis...stupid

[japam]

update on this?

[poshatch]

lol well ill let you know how it went down after that, so the light was still on after i fixed the knink so im like wtf is going on after reading the fsm on diagnosing the egr, and watching the egr work i figured it could be a solenoid problem or a wiring issue or the ecu

i re-did the wiring for the kink to the knock sensor and wraped it up again and it didnt fix it. finally i decided that it would have to be the ecu acting stupid casue that month we did a few motor swaps at my house and we may have gotten them mixed up, anyway swapped the ecu over, it never threw a code again

oh also i swapped that knock sensor in as well...took forever but it seems to be working i dont have any abnormal adjusting of the timing and it idles perfectly

now im onto smog at the moment, really lame stuff but i hope this helps any q? post em up

[rms13Mike]

my cars still throwing code 32 and 34 lol. on and off before. had to get smogged, just cleared the codes and went, passed, and now its just constantly on. damn egr

[poshatch]

my cars still throwing code 32 and 34 lol. on and off before. had to get smogged, just cleared the codes and went, passed, and now its just constantly on. damn egr

hook me up with some smog tips on how you passed please!!!

my whole egr system is working great, car is in great shape, no exhaust leaks, no vacuum leaks, great idle, runs great, always starts up, no backfiring, fully stock now

andi almost passed except for NOx at 15mph i was slightly over but passed wtih flying colors on everything else

how'd you get yours to pass!!

[rms13Mike]

honestly i have no idea lol. the car was running fine too so i kind of just disregarded the CEL (although i have read about the codes and checked the EGR stuff, egr doesnt open but bogs when manually opened). then i needed to smog it a year ago. all i did was clear the code and drove it there thats it really. just regular 91 octane, i didnt put any alcohol. i did have an air filter but idk if that relevant. my NO was 791 of 799 max for 15mph and 589 of 738for 25, HC 116 of 118 on 15 mpg is my closest one to the max. sorry im no help. i actually might end up in your position when i have to smog it again next year

[poshatch]

honestly i have no idea lol. the car was running fine too so i kind of just disregarded the CEL (although i have read about the codes and checked the EGR stuff, egr doesnt open but bogs when manually opened). then i needed to smog it a year ago. all i did was clear the code and drove it there thats it really. just regular 91 octane, i didnt put any alcohol. i did have an air filter but idk if that relevant. my NO was 791 of 799 max for 15mph and 589 of 738for 25, HC 116 of 118 on 15 mpg is my closest one to the max. sorry im no help. i actually might end up in your position when i have to smog it again next year

does the alchi thing really work?

cause like i was so effing close last time all i need as a small small boost to get me up over the edge to pass, i tried upping the octane rating but i dont think it will help much =[

[rms13Mike]

alcohol? from what ive read alot of people use it and it works to an extent but i never tried it myself. try it . i just got lucky i guess that my numbers were in range. i read your thread in june and seems like youve done all that ive heard of and more. i dont really know much about smog, you seem to know more than me. oh and i have ngk iridium on stock heat range if that matters.

[japam]

So I'm in the same boat the 32 and 34 codes. I've replaced: egar/bpt valves, hoses, both solenoids and still, the light comes on.

btw, after replacing parts, do you guys reset the ecu at all or just fire it up right away? And do you guys do it by disconnecting the battery or resetting the ecu itself using a flathead on the diagnostic screw(?) on the ecu?

[poshatch]

alcohol? from what ive read alot of people use it and it works to an extent but i never tried it myself. try it . i just got lucky i guess that my numbers were in range. i read your thread in june and seems like youve done all that ive heard of and more. i dont really know much about smog, you seem to know more than me. oh and i have ngk iridium on stock heat range if that matters.

i just did that yesterday replaced the older ones that didnt seem that messed up with the proper heat range ones hopefully that will make the difference in addition to the other things i did like oil change and fuel filter change and with the timing back to the range i need i will hopefully pass

ive done way way way to much research into the matter haha i feel like i still dont know enough to solve my problem...how the expect anybody for this car to pass under normal conditions is beyond me

[poshatch]

So I'm in the same boat the 32 and 34 codes. I've replaced: egar/bpt valves, hoses, both solenoids and still, the light comes on.

btw, after replacing parts, do you guys reset the ecu at all or just fire it up right away? And do you guys do it by disconnecting the battery or resetting the ecu itself using a flathead on the diagnostic screw(?) on the ecu?

you know i asked the same question and i didnt really get an answer. i reset mine with the screw at the ecu to clear the codes, if you fixed it they wont come back on, if the ecu detects an issue again it will throw it again

did you check for that kink i showed above? for the knock sensor code?

[japam]

tbh I hate all things electrical. But the wires right there are fully exposed as the strut bar I have on crushed the plastic cover open. So that could be a problem since it's exposed to heat. I'll check that out. It's ridiculous that this problem is so common in these cars and the remedies are almost never the same. I'm about to sell this car.

[japam]

lol well ill let you know how it went down after that, so the light was still on after i fixed the knink so im like wtf is going on after reading the fsm on diagnosing the egr, and watching the egr work i figured it could be a solenoid problem or a wiring issue or the ecu

i re-did the wiring for the kink to the knock sensor and wraped it up again and it didnt fix it. finally i decided that it would have to be the ecu acting stupid casue that month we did a few motor swaps at my house and we may have gotten them mixed up, anyway swapped the ecu over, it never threw a code again

oh also i swapped that knock sensor in as well...took forever but it seems to be working i dont have any abnormal adjusting of the timing and it idles perfectly

now im onto smog at the moment, really lame stuff but i hope this helps any q? post em up

so wait, all you did was swap the ECU and it fixed it???? oh and after you fixed a part or whatever, when did the light come back on for you? I'm surprised that swapping the ECU got rid of it entirely. I smogged my car the other day and it passed EVERYTHING except for that stupid light!!!

[poshatch]

well i was going by what the fsm was saying...basically the last step in diagnosing the problem is to swap the ecu out for a factory known one to be working to test that it isnt the ecu messing up

in my case i think the ecu was messing up somehow got damaged (i built two cars that month in my garage and it got a little hectic) or fried or whatever....the knock sensor shorted that was a given, it also could have been damaged from heat since i over heated my car a few times in the past pretty bad and close to the event...i realized that the ecu must be messing up once it threw the light for the egr...it was working properly, the ecu only knows two things with the egr and thats the temp and the solenoid, the solenoid was working, it was receiving vacuum as well, and i wasnt about to take apart my whole intake manifold to see if it was the temp soo i just swapped the ecu over it hasnt come on since

[poshatch]

reset the light before you go in next time and it should stay off long enough for the test...idono why mine isnt passing its frustrating, i mean yours passed at stock timing, there is NO WAY mine would pass like that...but there isnt anything wrong with my engine that i can spot...so wtf is all i can say to that