ShaftMasters Quality?

[rb25drag]

I know Shaft Masters is a Nico Sponcer. Just wanting some feedback on them? There pricing looks good for our swaps. But What Kind of Torque will the Aluminum Shafts hold up to? I would rather have a steel Driveshaft but I don't see any listed. Im tired of twisting U-Joints at the track.

[StricNyne]

well i havent run mine, BUT it looks ****ing amazing lol i mean i was surprised, how much power you plan on making where your tearing u joints lol, and i believe they are steel

[neonbomb]

I just picked up an aluminum one from them 2 weeks ago. Quality is fantastic and i highly recommend them.

[rb25drag]

well i havent run mine, BUT it looks ****ing amazing lol i mean i was surprised, how much power you plan on making where your tearing u joints lol, and i believe they are steel

I don't know how much power my future holds. Possibly 600-700. But thats a long time away.

Im still on the Stock 2 piece drive shaft and I keep Breaking the u-Joints.

Im just worried of twisting the aluminum one in the center on my launches.

Im putting some serious pressure on those. I have broke 3 sets od U-Joints and 1 set of axles in the last 3 times I have been to the track.

[Shocker]

Best solution is to just call and ask.

[uber95]

If you are breaking U-joints driveshaft choice won't matter. Aluminum D/S are the factory choice on many high HP cars, no worries there. Although I don't have a ShaftMasters D/S I'm sure they are more than adaquate for what you need. The U-joint issue can be addressed with some high quality spicer units. You will need to have a new yoke made I'm sure with the appropriate provisions.

[rb25drag]

If you are breaking U-joints driveshaft choice won't matter. Aluminum D/S are the factory choice on many high HP cars, no worries there. Although I don't have a ShaftMasters D/S I'm sure they are more than adaquate for what you need. The U-joint issue can be addressed with some high quality spicer units. You will need to have a new yoke made I'm sure with the appropriate provisions.

They seem to sell the Rb25 s13 driveshaft with the correct yoke already installed. Plus there prices are Much better than Driveshaft shop's.

Thanks for the info. Ill be placing an order soon.

Shocker- I just emailed them asking there tq and Hp ratings on there shafts.

[rb25drag]

Also does it matter what crossmember im running?

[l0nestar]

I ordered mine about a month after they became a sponsor.

The quality of the welds looks pretty good.

Weight difference in weight between my S13 and R33 2-pieces and this single aluminum is night and day.

The only 'gripe' that I have is the price.When they started the price was '$300 shipped'. I order mine and it is $350.. ? "price of aluminum went up". Ok fine. Then about 2 weeks after this, I look and their price was now '$250' shipped. I have not looked back at them recently.

I also believe the units are fully rebuildable.

[l0nestar]

Also does it matter what crossmember im running?

Yes. They will tell you where to measure to / from. My shaft is a 'custom' due to the combination of cross-member and differential that I am running.

[rb25drag]

Well as of right now there 324 shipped.

Also, im going to jack my own thread. But the Stock r200 axles. I have heard some say there capable of 500HP, But No one mentions tq. I have already broke 1 set and Im afraid of breaking another. Is there any other Aftermarket axles besides Driveshaft shops 699$ axles?

[Coolwhip]

Yea, and they'll run you over $1800 for a set.

[Shocker]

I'd put a q45 rear end and half shafts in before I upgraded to crazy one off axles. They seemed to work great for Riggs, as he was breaking Mazwork's axles....

[Coolwhip]

True, Q45 rear is Buff!

[silviasgp06]

i ordered a steal one from them, you just have to call to order it. 317ish shipped. called and talked to them and mounts do not matter, they said out of all the ones they have made all mounts are all with in 2 to 3 inches of each other for the shafts length. You just specify if you have a abs or non abs differential.(abs version like the s14 VLSD requires a slightly shorter shaft) No problems with it so far, and they have had customers that drive the steal and aluminum in 500hp plus drag and drift cars with no issues yet, have been driving for almost 4,000miles with it.

oh and they are fully re-buildable

prices will always fluctuate a little, its just the day we live in now.

[rb25drag]

I'd put a q45 rear end and half shafts in before I upgraded to crazy one off axles. They seemed to work great for Riggs, as he was breaking Mazwork's axles....

I wouldn't mind the q45 except I don't wanna change my brake setup I just spent 900$ on. I would rather just buy axles and be done with it. Plus I have already welded the spider gears up for the Full posi.

I guess Im asking for too much too cheap!! LOL I just wish I didn't have to break my bank account everytime I wanted to go race a night.

[240z4u]

I wouldn't mind the q45 except I don't wanna change my brake setup I just spent 900$ on. I would rather just buy axles and be done with it. Plus I have already welded the spider gears up for the Full posi.

I guess Im asking for too much too cheap!! LOL I just wish I didn't have to break my bank account everytime I wanted to go race a night.

Your not kidding. I want to hit the track but if I get teched they won't let me race. There are a handfull of problems that need addressing before I even attempt to go.

Seems like Ill never make it, always something on this freakin car!

[rb25drag]

i ordered a steal one from them, you just have to call to order it. 317ish shipped. called and talked to them and mounts do not matter, they said out of all the ones they have made all mounts are all with in 2 to 3 inches of each other for the shafts length. You just specify if you have a abs or non abs differential.(abs version like the s14 VLSD requires a slightly shorter shaft) No problems with it so far, and they have had customers that drive the steal and aluminum in 500hp plus drag and drift cars with no issues yet, have been driving for almost 4,000miles with it.

oh and they are fully re-buildable

prices will always fluctuate a little, its just the day we live in now.

Nice, Thanks for the post. I think I would feel more comfortable with a steel shaft. I know aluminum is strong. But I want it to last for years to come.

[rb25drag]

Your not kidding. I want to hit the track but if I get teched they won't let me race. There are a handfull of problems that need addressing before I even attempt to go.

Seems like Ill never make it, always something on this freakin car!

LOL, I agree. Luckly my local track doesn't tech you until you get to 7.50's in the 1/8th. Which I have been warned since I don't have my cage in that they will throw me off the track if I run that number. Last time I was there I went 7.80 and I had 2 guys briefly looking at my setup. So I know of a bunch of things I need to get but can''t $$$ it.

[uber95]

You're running 12-teens and breaking stuff? That's kinda odd...... What parts are you starting with? Used stuff that is suspect? Just curious because 12's is not equivalent to snapping axles and drivetrain components that are up to par, even stock ones..

[rb25drag]

Most everything on my car is New. Not junk parts either. All good quality b/c I have built the car to race.

Everyone else on here is having trouble hooking up on the track on Megan Coilovers. Somehow I snap the Driveshaft on the first pass!! So I don't know, Guess the RB is making some massive tq!!

[zismo02]

But one reason why your breaking stuff is because you have a welded diff.Are you running slicks or very soft compound tires???

You put all that pressure down, somethings gotta give. The 1 piece shaft should be more than enough for you.Plus I know Mustang guys who run Aluminum Dshafts, but they do change to Steel when they up the power alot.

What Driveshaft have you been running or breaking??And I don't think your putting down nearly as much torque as a 302.

[240z4u]

MT slicks at the track, two piece driveshaft... your car is hooking because the tires are sticking but there is no weight transfer to offset the hard shock to the axles.

Do you dump your clutch, you should definitely not be if thats the case.

Evan

[rb25drag]

MT slicks at the track, two piece driveshaft... your car is hooking because the tires are sticking but there is no weight transfer to offset the hard shock to the axles.

Do you dump your clutch, you should definitely not be if thats the case.

Evan

No dumping of the clutch. Thats why I bought a Stage 4 Cusco Exedy Twin Plate Insurance!!

When Staging I Pre-stage, Set my launch control bring up my rpm's ease into the 2nd stage, then I slip the clutch with the E-brake on to pre-load the drive tran so I don't have any slack when launching then she either goes or breaks.

Im running the 11.5 x 26 x 17 MT ET Drag Streets. IMO Best tire you can buy.

currently the 2 piece drive shaft that came with my motor.

I Emailed Shaftmasters yesterday and got a quote on a Steel shaft. I would feel much better with that vs twisting the aluminum one in a few years down the road.

[Shocker]

When Staging I Pre-stage, Set my launch control bring up my rpm's ease into the 2nd stage, then I slip the clutch with the E-brake on to pre-load the drive tran so I don't have any slack when launching then she either goes or breaks.

How much play is in your clutch? I cant imagine being able to do that with my 6 puck... its pretty much on or off... I might have to try tho, seems like a good idea.

[rb25drag]

When I first Put the Clutch on 0 Play, basically you burnout taking off or stall the motor. But Since I have got it almost broken in. I can Actually start easing into it now. Its a hard trick to get down. Sometimes Im better than others but it seems to work. Well did work until recently.

[zismo02]

By dumping the clutch I think he meant, Side stepping the clutch. Instead of slipping the clutch till your move off.

yeah go for the steel shaft if you will feel that you won't have to worry about it.But just becareful that something else doesn't break.

[240z4u]

Yeah, I meant side-stepping.

Sounds like your launching well, are you getting wheel hop at all? Thats an axle killer.

Evan

[rb25drag]

No wheel hop. It never thinks about spinning a tire. Its hooked up a little too much LOL. I was even running 20lbs in my tires when I broke the driveshaft. I use to run 12lbs in them. But I wanted it to spin a little out of the hole So I didn't break anything again. But that didn't happen.

Will see how the new driveshaft does. But this is the last set of factory axles im buying. If I break these Im going with the Driveshaft shop's.

When Breaking the Driveshaft I launched at 3600RPM's @ 5lbs of boost.

I should be able to leave at 5000RPM's @ 8lbs of boost. Well this is my goal anyways.

How strong are the Rb25 transmission's? Should I worry about breaking it?

[l0nestar]

How strong are the Rb25 transmission's? Should I worry about breaking it?

I believe Andy (Booztd3) started having issues with them around 600 whp. If memory serves, he damaged a 2-3 synchronizer. Everything is internally identical to a Z32 NA trans. He did a nice writeup on this too.