Hahaha Sean, you know me too well. The SDS is a good system, but can be the death of your engine in an instant if you have not a clue as to what you're getting into.NeedCAforS13 wrote:Dee loves that SDS stuff... wait 30 seconds for him to chime in with how its the best thing since sliced bread
Sean
Why would you wanna raise your compression and use a standalone? Do you realize the trickery of tuning involved in this? Do you realize what type of engine the CA18DET is? It's a time bomb, waiting on the wrong timing input by a uneducated user. You will want to leave the compression stock or even lower it if you can, but if it's an everyday car, leave it the way it is. Raising the compression gives you no more advantage with turbo as the lower compression pistons unless you plan on running C16 everyday @ $9.00 a gallon. If you still want to raise your compression, I have some 9.5:1 slugs sitting in my closet on big rods waiting for work. The problems will come when you raise the boost and you will more than likely destroy those pistons. Do some more reasearch on the system you're inquiring about, look at your desired power goals, and then determine if this system is right for you. It's not a cake walk, but it's not impossible either.8ggalant wrote:ok heres the thing...
i am able to get the sds EM-3F with the following features: Optional Knock Sensing (E & F systems only)Optional Fuel Pump RelayOptional Fast IdleOptional RPM Switch ControlMAP Sensor 3 Bar Abs(up to 30 psi boost)Injector DriverWater and Air Temp SensorA/C solenoidRPM Switch
now...i really dont plan to go "all out" for power on this motor, but i do know from experiance w/ friends cars that even moderately modified setups make more power on standalones than they would w/ a piggyback or chipped setup.....so should i do it...he wants 900 or so for it local...(i only plan to go w/ a z32 maf, 550cc, fuel pump, fpr, fmic, 3inch exhaust turbo back, s15bb turbo) so do you all think i should invest in this or just go w/ a piggyback or chipped ecu w/ piggyback setup...i am on a budget sumwhat BUT i am in no rush to get the car on the road..this will be an on going project...im getting my motor from KaZ (vabch) and if its in good condition when i tear it down it will remain stock...if not i may raise the compression a little...
any opinions and advice would be greatly appreciated
Tuned to A/F ratio perfection!8ggalant wrote:did u tune yers...if so ill get yer plane ticket ready lol
hmmm lol..damn man i wish you were closer hahaboost_boy wrote:Tuned to A/F ratio perfection!
Dee
i'll vouch for Dee's tuning skills with an SDS... he was nice enough to come up to Orlando and install/tune an SDS into my friend Tim's AW11 custom turbo MR2. Thing is WICKED fastboost_boy wrote:Tuned to A/F ratio perfection!
Dee
so do it yourself, the SDS is one of the easier ones. Just go slow and watch your guages.8ggalant wrote:lol i here ya...i mean i have a shop that uses the sds all the time...but i just hate having to rely on sumone else to tune my car
yea thas what im thinkin about doing...maybe dee will give me his email or number so i can harrass him w/ questions lolthemadscientist wrote:
so do it yourself, the SDS is one of the easier ones. Just go slow and watch your guages.
thats the statement i needed..lol i just wrote dee pretty much asking the ? of what you just told me...the guy is holding the harness for me but he/we are still lookin for a stock harness for his car be4 i can buy the sds off of himr34 gtr wrote:and let me just say again, from experience, that it is NOT worth messing around with a safc or something when youve done as much to the car as i have. the sds is GOLD. it took me a month to get my car running after i rebuilt the engine because of electrical gremlins in the factory wiring harness. please dont follow in my footsteps and do yourself a big favor at the same time, get that sds. honestly, i would tell you to get it even with a stock ca18 if you had the money. it just makes diagnosis so easy. if you think of your engine as a jigsaw puzzle, the sds would change it from a 2000 piece puzzle of a forest or something rediculous to one of those little kid puzzles with 6 pieces.
- tim
Couldn't have said this better myself! After I had spent mad money with JW?, I felt compelled to take charge my own engines destruction. I'll admit, I'm having fun with it . As for the magnets in the pull, it must done right or your car will not run right or even crank. If one needed it done, I can do it for a couple of quarters and "NO", it's not that easy to do.r34 gtr wrote:and let me just say again, from experience, that it is NOT worth messing around with a safc or something when youve done as much to the car as i have. the sds is GOLD. it took me a month to get my car running after i rebuilt the engine because of electrical gremlins in the factory wiring harness. please dont follow in my footsteps and do yourself a big favor at the same time, get that sds. honestly, i would tell you to get it even with a stock ca18 if you had the money. it just makes diagnosis so easy. if you think of your engine as a jigsaw puzzle, the sds would change it from a 2000 piece puzzle of a forest or something rediculous to one of those little kid puzzles with 6 pieces.
- tim
well a few more ?....do i still need the ca harness if i got w/ the sds (tryin to get around buying one lol), also will i be able to program a "base map" so i can drive the car to the dyno??boost_boy wrote: Couldn't have said this better myself! After I had spent mad money with JW?, I felt compelled to take charge my own engines destruction. I'll admit, I'm having fun with it . As for the magnets in the pull, it must done right or your car will not run right or even crank. If one needed it done, I can do it for a couple of quarters and "NO", it's not that easy to do.
Dee
No need for the CA harness! I can probably help with that based on the type of injectors you use, but I recommend at least 550cc to start with.8ggalant wrote:
well a few more ?....do i still need the ca harness if i got w/ the sds (tryin to get around buying one lol), also will i be able to program a "base map" so i can drive the car to the dyno??
h all thos emods, you should be able to get 250 whp. It supercedes those mods because the SDS eliminates the use of AFMs, crank angle sensors, coil packs, etc, etc.....ca18detizzle wrote:ok sorry for this dumb question and please dont hurt me. i'm new to the tuning world and wanting to learn more. i know it will depend on what my power goal is + mods but how will it compare to the Greddy Emanage if my goal was 250whp with z32maf, 255fuel pump, FPR, srT25 turbo, and DSM 450injectors?
There is no "trickery". It is true that Max. Brake Torque (MBT) is harder to find with the higher compression you have. With a skilled tuner, it should be no problem (depending usage of the car).boost_boy wrote:Do you realize the trickery of tuning involved in this?
Any motor is a time bomb with a uneducated user. Timing have a BIG role in cyl. pressure.boost_boy wrote: Do you realize what type of engine the CA18DET is? It's a time bomb, waiting on the wrong timing input by a uneducated user.
Incorrect. Higher compression will make more power and increase spool of the turbo (within reason). But, you are right about a street car. The lower compression and less timing the motor will have lower cyl. pressure (EGT). Rule of thumb, for about every one full point of compression you raise it, you will see 5-15whp (from the compression alone). As you can see, it is not crazy amount of HP.boost_boy wrote:Raising the compression gives you no more advantage with turbo as the lower compression pistons unless you plan on running C16 everyday @ $9.00 a gallon.
Timing has a lot to do with bore and VE. Remember, the flame has to travel cross the bore. The larger the bore, the more advanced it has to be.boost_boy wrote: The Ca's timing scheme is very much like that of the RBs, but a tuner has to becareful and not get complaced.