same old chain guide issue... do it myself?

[ScottJackson]

I didn't want to wait for something to go wrong to fix it. I'm that way with many things but not stuff like the chain guides. My guides were all perfectly intact, including the driver side guides. I did get the slack side guide out by rotating it inward after removing the aluminum bracket that holds the adjustable oil pump chain guide. From there it was smooth sailing. I've got zip ties on both sides, have heard no cams snap, all the guides are out, and the chains are both pretty tight. Azskygod has better pics than I've taken. I did notice that the oil pump nut wasn't on all that tight with mine. I'm gonna torque it down a bit more than it was before to be safe. I know I'm not outta the woods yet, but it is starting to look more promising and if I can save $2200+ I'll be thrilled. So, guys that have done this and been ever so helpful, now that the guides are out and the chains are tight with zip ties and no cam snappage, am I over the pinnacle? Zenith, peak... whatever? My head gaskets that seal the top of the front cover are chewed a little on the surface from when I removed the cover, what's the best way to fix it? Should I just remove the loose gasket junk, add some silicone and put the front cover on and then add some more silicone to the outside of the seam? I don't mean a lot of silicone, I know that's a no no, just enough to coat the roughed spots... Also, I took my leaky power steering hose from my 91 Q to a local hardware place and got it fixed up with new 3/8" hose and crimp clamps. Seems to work great and the $13.00 it cost me was a lot cheaper than the $157 for a new one.

[maxnix]

I... the Infinity dealership 130 miles away said $2300 in labor alone.

Wrong brand of dealer!

[azskygod]

The most difficult one to replace was the passenger side, tension side (top) guide. There's not much give in the chain, and the new guide must be inserted from underneath and rotated into place. Put your thumbs on the bolt holes, insert the guide under the chain and push up and in like hell. Be careful that the clip on the plastic backing (right end) does not flex too much and separate from the metal guide. If it does, gently replace it and try again.

The rest were easy compared to this one... Good luck!

AZSKYGOD

[DAEDALUS]

Scott, be careful with that head gasket. You need to smooth it out real well before putting the cover on, or you'll have a heck of a time wedging the lower cover in between the gasket and the oil pan. Perhaps some painters tape on the underside of the gasket will help to "shoehorn" the cover in place under the gasket. Dunno about the RTV...not sure how well it'll stick to the head gasket. It couldn't hurt on the outside of the seam.

Before you put the cover on, and after the chains, guides and tensioners are all in place, rotate the crank 2 complete revolutions slowly to make sure you don't have any interferences. If you come to an abrupt stop, halt immediately. Sounds like you'll be just fine though.

[azskygod]

The head gaskets each have a small tab of material that extends beyond the mating surface of the covers. I used a pair of locking hemostats clamped onto this edge before installing the covers and it really helped keep the gasket in place. That way it doesn't get pushed out of place by the covers, and you can pull the gasket into alignment so the bolt holes line up correctly.

AZSKYGOD

[Q451990]

They used RTV on the head gasket at T3. Also, they had to remove the smaller cover on the right side of the engine, the one that bridges the gap between the front cover and rocker cover (not the one that holds the CAS) to get the cover back on.

They also tried a technique that made me nervous as hell before resorting to moving that small cover, but seems to work just fine - they hammered the front lip of the oil pan downward slightly to make more space. I guess the oil pan bolts pull the lip back in place.

Heath

[DAEDALUS]

Heath, do you know if they used RTV above and below the head gasket, or just on one side? The hammering would make me nervous too. I'd be scared the oil pan gasket would be abused to the point of early leaking.

[redmanfx]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by azskygod "]Hey guys, don't forget I just finished a complete chain guide replacement AND retime a couple of months ago on a '91 Q45A... Lot's of photos too!

Glad you can help ...........Just more to do on the Q. Dollars to donuts.. hmm... I think I'll stick with everyone's advice about having the guides looked at. Your the experts. If there is anything in the oil pan I'll send the donuts....

It will be awhile before the funds will be right to tackle this though.

Infiniti dealer... how's that maxnix? Sometimes I type to fast.

I'm really not looking forward to doing the guides. I might just try to get to T3. I'm really not that far. I Need more cash though.

redmanfx92 Q45a

[maxnix]

Originally posted by azskygod "]Infiniti dealer... how's that maxnix? Sometimes I type to fast.

I'm really not looking forward to doing the guides. I might just try to get to T3. I'm really not that far. I Need more cash though.

Cool!

Check to see if they have the last chain guide kit on special still available. I would hate to see yours crater while you are waiting for the cash.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

Discover the power of the button!

[Q451990]

Heath, do you know if they used RTV above and below the head gasket, or just on one side? The hammering would make me nervous too. I'd be scared the oil pan gasket would be abused to the point of early leaking.

I think it was a thin layer of RTV on both sides. The oil pan hammering wasn't anything brutal... maybe with a rubber mallet?

Heath

[911/Q45]

If the dampner is tough to get on take the washer off the bolt. That will get you enough threads to engage, then pull it on a bit, remove the bolt, put the washer back on and finish the job.