S13 ka24de can't figure out problem

[Rharris9]

Ok guys this is one for the books... I'm in no way an unknowledgable gent when it comes to the ka had a hundred of them. My current issue is I was driving to my girlfriends one night and the car started bucking and slowly choking itself out per say. I have a maf code and a cts code replaced both still had them same issue, car didn't want to stay running choppy idle and when I gave it throttle it simply choked almost like it was 180 out. Since this I've replace the fpr, pump, dist cap, rotor, pulled the entire front off the motor retimed the motor, (one of the guides shattered..) I'm almost positive I have everything correct on the timing. I straight grounded the maf, swapped ecus, coils, plug wires, basically done ever single logical thing rechecked my timing 4 times. If I retard the timing it runs but only for a few minutes like 10 or so then starts to die out again I know I'm getting fuel because the cylinders are covered in it and the plugs too. Does anyone have a clue at all what could be causing this?? I need to get my car going because I'm expecting a baby soon and my lady said if I can't get it running I have to get rid of it for diaper money I've exhausted every bit of my knowledge on this one and have run out of ideas I've check all my plugs for proper voltage and reset my tps and replaced it as well. So please anyone I'll take any advice at this point please help!!!

[centralcoaster33]

Fuel injector stuck closed or open maybe? You can check the resistance in Ohms for the injectors. Vacuum leak somewhere letting air in?

[Rharris9]

I checked my injectors resistance they all seemed good but I did notice a lot of fuel on my cylinders through the spark plug hole and I tried spraying starting fluid everywhere around the intake manifold and intake pipe but it never idled up

[Hoonigan19]

Holy f***. Bro I'm in the same situation lol . Tried starting my ka24de after 2 months sitting. It tried to crank and fired a couple of rough turns then off. Looked in my spake plug hole and I can see a puddle of fuel. Tried quick start spray too. Currently let my spark plugs out to let the fuel evaporate and gonna try again. This time with a fully charged battery...

[Rharris9]

I tried that it still didn't work I'm wondering if my dizzy is bad because I have to turn it all the way to retarded to get it to run

[centralcoaster33]

Hey guys, I know one of you said you have spark, but the issue described seems to show otherwise. For just under 10 bucks at the car parts store you can buy a spark testor to put on your spark plugs. Be sure to get one that will fit down into the valve cover to get to the spark plug (I think) or find out if it's okay to put onto the distributor end of the wire (admitedly, I don't have one and haven't used one on my 240sx). With that, you can see with your own eyes if you're distributor is sending a spark to the plug. Having that tool will help you eliminate or isolate your potential issues. Also, one of you mentioned not having the IACV stuff plugged in and that could be stuck open or closed and act like a vacuum leak, but again, it doesn't seem like the main cause of your issues. At least make sure all of your bits are plugged in.

[Rharris9]

I thought about trying the inline tester to make sure it's not cutting out when it gets going I did notice my knock sensor plug had a broke wire but I haven't been running a knock sensor at all for the last three years so I don't think that's the issue I am going to fix that little issue though but I did clear my codes and now all I have are 11 and 34 which 34 is knock sensor and 11 is cas which is in the distributor so I'm thinking that that may be my issue now when it gets hot it starts to fail on me

[centralcoaster33]

Hmmm, a new code. I'm not totally familiar with S13 distributor and crank angle sensor. It sounds like it can get dirty, but is clean-able. Can you reseat all of the plugs to your distributor and check 3 grounds (front engine on intake side, rear engine on exhaust side, battery to either the tray or the strut tower)? How about clean that CAS and the cap and rotor?

Here's an interesting article from the searching... seems similar
code-11-crank-angle-sensor-help-please-t437934.html

[centralcoaster33]

Oh and the knock sensor has only one wire. It's shielded and the shield becomes a second wire at some point. But the thing itself grounds to the engine block, so just one wire. I only mention that in case you thought there should be two and it is not actually broken. Thinking I needed two had me confused in the past with my car.

[Rharris9]

I'm going to try and pull it apart and clean it tomorrow my friend is going to let me barrow his also