s13 ka-de not firing!

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costa_rican13
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i don't know why.. i'm not getting fire from my coil. i've changed my ecu to a working one. thats not the problem. i've changed both ignition control module and coil to working ones from my friends car. (his car runs just fine, mine doesn't) so i know those aren't bad. i have no idea at all. i need some more ideas, also dizzy has been changed too, but i'm not getting fire from the coil so dizzy won't distribute the spark.. even with the known working ignition control module and ignition coil i still don't get any fire. what else is there to check? and please don't move this to technical pahc, hardly anyone goes there and this is my DD for work and school, so i need this up and running asap.


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OutToWinPAHC
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crank angle sensor maybe, have you checked codes in diag?

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costa_rican13
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code 55, and already put a different dizzy in. whats happening is the coil itself is not firing so the dizzy isnt get fire.

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OutToWinPAHC
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55 - Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required

or major sensor issues, you can have something shorted which is taking out the ecu. I would inspect the wiring for burns and tears, and check all sensor connections. if you find nothing try unplugging sensors and try starting it.

Id unplug the CTS, injectors, IAC, TPS, and o2 and then check for spark. If you get spark plug one in at a time until i goes away and these is your shorted sensor.

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costa_rican13
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tried that pahc, still nothing. no bogging or back firing. but whats this? Image
IMAG0396 by costa_rican13, on FlickrImage
IMAG0397 by costa_rican13, on FlickrImage
IMAG0398 by costa_rican13, on Flickr


how would i found an obd1 tester?

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OutToWinPAHC
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not sure, but is that coil relocation csanded down? Good ground signal to the power transistor?

rioredstang
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That is a condenser. It helps stop high voltage from the coil going back to the ignition switch. It should run without this I think. Do you have 12v to the coil? Do you injector pulse? Check for broken wires.

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costa_rican13
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Oh ok. And is that 12v going to the coil when the engine is cranking? or when just the ignition key is in the "on" position? And how do you test for injector pulse? I know I get fuel because I can smell it and my spark plugs had fuel on them when I pulled them to check see if I was getting fuel. Problem i switched control module and coil at sometime with my buddy's module and coil, and his car runs, so I know they both work. And when I connected his to my plugs and tightened them down to get ground. I still didn't get any spark. So what comes before the coil and control module, because those aren't sparking. Or what would cause them to not spark if I switched them both with good working ones that I know 100% work.

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costa_rican13
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gona change igntion relay and see what happens..

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OutToWinPAHC
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When did it work last, and did you change anything from that time until now?

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costa_rican13
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the car ran, the day before I made the other thread about this. So last week? so far I've changed the dizzy, new plugs, and wires, and I've tried a control module and coil from my friends 240 that is running.

compactfean
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Try your buddies dizzy and ecu.

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costa_rican13
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The dizzy can cause the ignition coil to not fire??

compactfean
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Yes...the dizzy has two functions (which sucks they combined these into the dizzy. Since our motors don't have a crank sensor for trigger signal Nissan put the cam angle sensor in the dizzy. I bought a turboed 200sx ser for 500 bucks because it had no spark....dizzy.

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costa_rican13
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oh i see, well i didn't put the relay in because it was brown so i gotta return it, mines green i think or blue. and ok i'll ask him if he'll let me borrow it. i doubt he will since it deals with timing and such.. a new ones 172 bucks... :( but i found these!!
this is from the wrap of just the maf sensor wires.
Image
IMAG0407 by costa_rican13, on Flickr

and this is the o2 sensor wire. Image
IMAG0413 by costa_rican13, on Flickr

now question is how to repair?? solder?? or wrap with black tape? i don't know guys..

compactfean
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The second pic looks like egr temp sensor. Can't really tell though. Those wires wont make a difference with spark but by the looks of it I would be yanking that harness out and going through it. Definitely solder any wires that have to do with signal to the ecu I would try what outtowin said...unplug each sensor one at a time and test to see of you have spark.if.
You get spark you Know that that circuit has a problem.

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costa_rican13
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that wire is for the o2 sensor. anywhere to get a cheap yet effective soldering gun? also if the wire just the rubber skin/lining is broken ? then what? just black tape it? and i tried what he said i got nothing.

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OutToWinPAHC
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radio shack like 10 bucks.

compactfean
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Im anal about wiring so I would cut it, clean it up, put the shrink tube on the wire, solder, then shrink tube, then tape up whole section of harness.

compactfean
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My best suggestion for a nube to soldering, make sure you tin your iron, then tin your wires and solder. If that doesn't work than do a western union solder joint.

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costa_rican13
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ok great guys! ill get one and fix those. thanks! even though im sure it didnt cause my problem...

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costa_rican13
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Distributor didn't fix my problem... still not firing!! Damn the ka!

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OutToWinPAHC
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Does the borrowed ECU still work in the other vehicle?

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costa_rican13
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yes all 3 ecu's work

BigDAT
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do you have tach when you crank the car over? (does your tach move at all?)

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costa_rican13
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yes it does.

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biggie
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Check all grounds throughly?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah I think there is a white wire going into your dizzy... and it should be +5v if I'm not mistaken... try checking that with the key on?

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SteveTheTech
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This sounds like a head scratcher and a whole entire can of worms.

You need a soldering iron already....do you have a digital multimeter?
I do not think you will be able to properly diagnose this without some electronic verification tests.

All of the tests laid out here take into account the car is running correctly. The damaged wires may indeed be cut out and resoldered but as long as the effected wires do not appear to have parasitic green corrosion. You may be able to get away with some contact cleaner, a small wire brush and some luck.

Here is the circuit in question-
Image
Image


There is the right way to do things and when I am being paid to fix someone else's car they get that without question, but when it comes to my car I am guilty of taking the easy way on a few things. I wrote an article a while back about relocating the knock sensor and making a new harness for my own car, I am all about saving time and energy when it is your personal car. Let's try to get this.
:cheers:

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costa_rican13
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Thats some help I'm looking for! Hope this helps tomorrow ill try and check tomorrow.


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