Royal Purple in SR

[Superist1]

I was just woundering if Royal Purple was fine in the SR. I think it was here some one wrote about oil additives and was woundering if is could or would be a problem an turbo cars.

[240SXer]

Synthetic oil a problem in turbo cars?!

It's fine dude, i know plenty of people who run it. It's good stuff.

[9240sx]

Royal Purple 10-30 is the only oil ill put in my SR,I love it.Ran it in my KA too.Its just a little pricey,Also its hard to see on the dip stick.Look at Royal Purple's site,They dyno'd like 7whp on a s13 sr just by putting in some Royal Purple oil.

[nismostate]

hmmm.. never knew that.. I use Mobil 1 synthetic, but I usually change every 2- 2.5k

[brndck]

i was running royal purple for a while and i actually noticed a difference when i switched from mobil1 to royal purple. i've tried motul and redline and they don't burn at all, but motul is freakin esssspensive! i'm running elf now and i noticed an improvement when i switched from redline to that. apparently it has the lowest friction coefficient of any available synthetic motor oil (or so the label claims, but the redline label says the same thing).

[tubakins]

i use Valvoline Synpower it was rated just as good if not better than Royal Purple you should check it out plus it costs less than royle Purple too

[PalmerWMD]

Royal Purple 10-30 is the only oil ill put in my SR,I love it.Ran it in my KA too.Its just a little pricey,Also its hard to see on the dip stick.Look at Royal Purple's site,They dyno'd like 7whp on a s13 sr just by putting in some Royal Purple oil.

a 30 weight oil in a trurbo 'ed car in New Mexico?

I recommed going with a xw-40 weight in winter and a xw-50in summer.

Fred...

[PalmerWMD]

i use Valvoline Synpower it was rated just as good if not better than Royal Purple you should check it out plus it costs less than royle Purple too

Aye

[240SXer]

I use 20-50 and just let it warm up good any time I drive it. I thought about going with 10-40 though? I use Mobil 1, but I'm thinking about going to Royal Purple since the price is the same. I don't drive the car too much so it's not all that big of a deal.

[Superist1]

I knew the stuff was the chit, because I used to run it on my tib. I was just making sure that it wouldn't cause problems. Like some of the aditives that if I remember correctly would trap air in the oil.

[s13sr20chris]

i like to run oil with zdp so i am using redline currently.

[Superist1]

i like to run oil with zdp so i am using redline currently.

What is ZDP?????

[Nismo_Freak]

What is ZDP?????

Zuper Duper Performance!

Zinc Dithiophosphate = ZDP

It's an anti-wear additive found in motor oil. Works pretty well.

[Superist1]

Haha lol. Just curious as to what Royal purple uses to gain power and decrese(sp) the engine temp?

[s13sr20chris]

Zuper Duper Performance!

yeah!

[Nismo_Freak]

Haha lol. Just curious as to what Royal purple uses to gain power and decrese(sp) the engine temp?

Alot of friction inhibiting agent

[flohtingPoint]

I never ran it in my SR, but I currently run Royal Purple 20-50 in my CA18 here in germany.

[TunaFish]

Sorry, but honestly I see RP as nothing more than a gimmic.

You pay top dollar for a purple dyed oil, that is nothing more than a synthetic blend. (Its not even at true synth). For that money I would rather run Redline/Amsoil/etc

[Superist1]

Sorry, but honestly I see RP as nothing more than a gimmic.

You pay top dollar for a purple dyed oil, that is nothing more than a synthetic blend. (Its not even at true synth). For that money I would rather run Redline/Amsoil/etc

As to it being a gimic I've seen the dyno chart showing an inprovement on about 8 or 10 horse power. So I wouldn't call it a gimic. I you want further prof go to horespower tv and ask them. I ran it in my N/A tiburon and just with the motor oil notice a huge difference in where the power can in at and it felt smother and idled better and also ran slightly cooler! But for the price for 4qts at about 20 bucks and the power increase I would probably rate is as the 2nd best bang for buck for most cars.

[Superist1]

Only reasn for it being second is beacuse ot Nitrous. But sorry for biting into you like that I haven't slept for awile. But I just love the stuff.

[Nameless EJ6]

No thanks. Mobil 1 is fine for me.

Royal Purple? lol, what kind of brand name is that.

I've heard of the stuff no doubt.. but I'm staying away.

[TunaFish]

As to it being a gimic I've seen the dyno chart showing an inprovement on about 8 or 10 horse power. So I wouldn't call it a gimic. I you want further prof go to horespower tv and ask them. I ran it in my N/A tiburon and just with the motor oil notice a huge difference in where the power can in at and it felt smother and idled better and also ran slightly cooler! But for the price for 4qts at about 20 bucks and the power increase I would probably rate is as the 2nd best bang for buck for most cars.

dyno charts in uncontroled conditions really don't mean anything to me.

I could poop in a quart of oil, call it "fiberpower" and get dyno results that show an increase in power.

As far as HP TV, I wouldn't doubt that RP was sponsering them and its pretty easy to tip the tables to their favor while seeming innocent.

Millions of dollars are spent in the R&D area of lubrication, I really don't see RP knowing something that the rest of the companies didn't. Any additive they put in can easily be discovered simply by picking up a quart and analyzing it.

Your still paying full synth prices for a synthetic blend.

[own3d]

IMO it doesnt really matter what kind of oil you use as long as you change it every 3k or sooner, hell our delivery truck a 99 silverado, has 258,000 miles on it. only maintenance is changing oil every 2.5-3k miles, transmission and radiator flush every 100k and it still runs perfect. granted turbo cars are a little different but i figure any synthetic that gets changed every 4-5k will do just fine

[s13sr20chris]

i am no chemist but i firmly believe that synthetic oil is VERY important to any performance application. for that matter, fred is a chemist and he uses synthetic. as for rp, i believe it is a group 5 basestock(correct me if i am wrong). some of the requirements it meets are impossible to meet with a blend(again, corrections welcome). i believe synthetic to be even more valuable to a turbo car because synthetic oils naturally run a wider spread of viscosity with much less polymer additive(sludge formers). this means you can run an oil like 20w-50 to save your motor/turbo while having only as many polymer additives as a dino oil in the 10w-30 range.what i usually run in the winter is valvoline synpower 10w-40. it cleans up really well and is light for the cold weather.spring, summer, and fall i run redline oil. i think its a 20w-50 but i cant remember. its got the zinc antiwear stuff.

now fred will prob post up some super chemist stuff.

[tubakins]

ams oil? that crap is like water its not even certified by the petrolium institute

[PalmerWMD]

1) as for rp, i believe it is a group 5 basestock(correct me if i am wrong). 2)some of the requirements it meets are impossible to meet with a blend(again, corrections welcome). 3) i believe synthetic to be even more valuable to a turbo car because synthetic oils naturally run a wider spread of viscosity with much less polymer additive(sludge formers). 4) this means you can run an oil like 20w-50 to save your motor/turbo while having only as many polymer additives as a dino oil in the 10w-30 range.5)what i usually run in the winter is valvoline synpower 10w-40. it cleans up really well and is light for the cold weather.spring, summer, 6)and fall i run redline oil. i think its a 20w-50 but i cant remember. its got the zinc antiwear stuff.

1) Actually they never reall let anyone know what their base stock is but from MSDS its not that also keep in mind that group 5 is very spendy ( think Redline) and they couldt make RP at this price if it was group5 RP sell at a group 4 pricepoint. Even so I suspect they are not even group 4 as their website would be sure to brag about it ( like Mobil and AMSOIL) but they dont.THis leads me to blieve they are group 3 tops, possibly group 2+ and/or a blend2)You can meet some prettyy tpough requiremtn with a good Blend Valvoline Durablend 10w-40 meets even the toughest ACEA A3 req's, which are more demanding than any API spec so far.3)Absolutely4)Tru albeit the examples mentioned arent real good as their spread is close. a good comparison would be a 5w-40 syn vs a 10w-40 vonventional the conventional will have a lot of thickeners the syn very very few.5) SYnpowr inb a 40 weight makes 5w-40 are you sure this isnt it? no 10w-40 last time I checked ( some months ago)6)Yes it does whichmeans it sacrificed API certification in the interest of better protection under hard use

Fred..

[PalmerWMD]

ams oil? that crap is like water its not even certified by the petrolium institute

That doesnt mean anything, API cert is not just about performance, but also how much of which additives are allowed.

Some companies which o not limit their use fo some additives especially ZDP and ZDDP both of which are limites under API standards to protect catalytic converters.

[ItzGenX]

Not trying to threadjack or anything, but this seemed to involve comparing many oils to others so to speak. It is the only informative oil thread I've come across so far, so I add:

Anyone ever hear of this stuff called SynLube? I came across it a while back when I did some oil research (not too far in depth). The price seems to point out that it is really something. Also, they say its based off a fully synthetic and stable stock.

I would also like to add that I've been a user of Redline, and it doesn't seem that great of an oil. After 3k miles it seems like poop. Mobile1 seems to last longer in my motor then Redline. Third party test on the internet somewhere on an oil site show that Mobile1 is indeed better in the lubrication factor, but Redline resists more oxidation. Amsoil 'seems' like a good ticket, but I have never used it to even compare (although I would like to hear more about it). Royal purple is used by a friend of mine who has then switched to some other brand. He pointed out those "gains" you feel after changing the oil is somewhat true, but after about 100 miles it is back to square one.

[Superist1]

dyno charts in uncontroled conditions really don't mean anything to me.

I could poop in a quart of oil, call it "fiberpower" and get dyno results that show an increase in power.

As far as HP TV, I wouldn't doubt that RP was sponsering them and its pretty easy to tip the tables to their favor while seeming innocent.

Millions of dollars are spent in the R&D area of lubrication, I really don't see RP knowing something that the rest of the companies didn't. Any additive they put in can easily be discovered simply by picking up a quart and analyzing it.

Your still paying full synth prices for a synthetic blend.

Just kinda curious as to how the dyno has uncontrolled conditions? But as far as the show HP tv this is what they did they ran a base line of a camaro SS and then changed the engine and transmission oil to RP, and got 8 and some change to the wheels. And this was on a bran new SS. And the main reason that I love the stuff soo much is because even when I would go a little over 3k it would still be kinda purple. and to me that kinda hinted that it is some good CHIT. And as far as you pooping in oil just make sure u wipe all splatter off. j/k

And please informe me as to what a base stock is and how the groups differ.

[TunaFish]

In order for it to be a controlled condition, you would have to try a brand new oil vs brand new RP. It also would have to be done by a third party, a dyno done by RP is hard to take seriously because they are selling their product based on the assumption that it increases HP.

Switching from an old oil to a new oil can increase HP, regardless of brand. Switching from a dino to a synthetic blend can increase HP.

How do we know that even if RP does increase HP, that redline, amsoil, neo, schaeffers doesn't increase it more?

Did they mention on HP TV how many miles were on the SS? How it was broken in? what oil was in it before?