I wouldn't say they suck... they are designed better than internal wastegates... but not by much.480sx wrote:The t25 is the smallest possible framed turbo you could fit on your car without being a retard. So, your question and thread is a little ridiculous. You can fit a t25 anywhere you could fit any turbo.
350 is pushing a T2(not t25...) flange. You will need every bit of that 44mm wg. In addition, turbine housings with a built in external wastegate flange kinda suck. Screws up flow to the turbine.
No really, they do suck. They arnt in mass production for a reason. They are only used when there is really no other option for fitting a wastegate system.sorrowfulkiller wrote:I wouldn't say they suck... they are designed better than internal wastegates... but not by much.
Yes. This is what pretty much every tubular turbo manifold comes with except the ones designed to go with internal wastegates. But for the Ka there is no need for that because the Engine bay is tanker navigatible.sorrowfulkiller wrote:In any case, you're saying I should just go with a welded on v-band flange from the collector then? Of course it wouldn't just be a straight shot out of the side... more like a curved pipe to flange
Allllriight, where to start lol. First off, for the tuning system and injector size you have chosen, you might as well get a t3 turbo. One that matches the flow of the Ka better at those levels of Hp. One that will allow you to turn up the boost whenever you want, basically an upgrade for whenever you want more boost. You always want more boost eventually.sorrowfulkiller wrote:I think a solid 325-350 hp should be sufficient for what my plans are... and I know my build will get me there, considering I'm planning for 1000cc injectors, aem ems, a gt2876r, v-mount and e85 (I love the stuff, high octane and my car smells great ha ha)
Thats great that you'v read, but your a few years behind hehe. Put down the book and spend more time on the forums getting updated.sorrowfulkiller wrote: I've read maximum boost quite a bit
I have a fraction of that setup you want, and I'm already in that HP range.sorrowfulkiller wrote:I wouldn't say they suck... they are designed better than internal wastegates... but not by much.
In any case, you're saying I should just go with a welded on v-band flange from the collector then? Of course it wouldn't just be a straight shot out of the side... more like a curved pipe to flange, I've read maximum boost quite a bit
I think a solid 325-350 hp should be sufficient for what my plans are... and I know my build will get me there, considering I'm planning for 1000cc injectors, aem ems, a gt2876r, v-mount and e85 (I love the stuff, high octane and my car smells great ha ha)
oh btw the question was if I would be able to fit the tial directly on a turbine housing with a v-band flange without hitting anything xD doesn't matter too much though
As far as I know a v-mount in SD is not illegal, we have really relaxed auto laws up here. basically the only thing that is illegal, is having no cat... but they don't enforce it.480sx wrote:If this is a track only car, go for V-Mount if you can fabricate. If its a street car, you shouldnt do that and its illegal at LEAST in my state. Its also not needed.
lmao I like your train of thought. I personally think that a t2 with an external wastegate off the collector would actually open up quite a bit, for instance in the subie world people have used an external wastegate with a evo3 16g and have gained 35+ hp just by switching and putting in a little bit more fuel because it held boost better. The HP increse is more than likely because the turbo was more into its efficiency range... which is exactly what it should do with a gt2876r on a ka24deWDRacing wrote:Nate...buddy.
I hate when people say something sucks simply because a different option exists that is better. The internal wastegate has worked friggin excellent for YEARS. I have ridden in many Skylines/180's/Silvia's/Mustangs etc that have used internally gated turbo's. My uncle's T-Type would run 10's with the internal type.
The external is better, fact. Nuff said on this topic.
A friend of mine and fellow Nico guy has done something close to what you're thinking Cody. He said it was hard and the plumbing is ugly...but it worked. He's not the best welder and didn't even use the same type of metal when he made the pipe...LOL. But it works...
I have long wondered how well a large external wastegate and T2 flanged turbo would do. I'd use the biggest wastegate on the market though. Something that will assist the exhaust flow as much as possible. IMO the the T2 flange is just a restriction with anything more then 6 psi of boost. 8 psi starts to turn that thing into a restriction and at the same time the charge air temps are starting to increase ALOT.
DO IT!!!
WD
Its done 500+ HP with duel 44mm wastegates on a 4 banger before, and more than that somewhere else im sure. The main issue with the t2 flange is simply, its SMALL. Anything more than 350 hp and it becomes a restriction on just about every setup except crazy custom ish.WDRacing wrote:I have long wondered how well a large external wastegate and T2 flanged turbo would do.
Here is a gt30r with it on it, for a wrx/stihttp://www.full-race.com/catal...=1930480sx wrote:Brian, i wasnt talking about internal wastegates. I was talking about turbine housings(cant find the freaken pics of those goofy bastrds) that have a 'Remote mounted internal wastegate), like the OP was talking about getting. Back from the dinosaur age of turbochargers. I was comparing that to a normal internally gated turbo. That in todays day, those style housings arnt even made anymore because the normal style internal out performs them.
Its done 500+ HP with duel 44mm wastegates on a 4 banger before, and more than that somewhere else im sure. The main issue with the t2 flange is simply, its SMALL. Anything more than 350 hp and it becomes a restriction on just about every setup except crazy custom ish.
Again, a main issue here is turbine drive pressure. This is, the pressure your exhaust gas creates in your turbo manifold before the turbine. You want a ratio of as close to 1:1 as possible, drive pressure:boost. 1:1.5 is acceptable, but your turbos life will be shorter. The turbine trys to 'fly' out of the centerhousing when your drive pressure get out of whack. Your drive pressures get out of whack because your system is restricting flow at X hp.
OP - V-Mount and a condenser...
The cost/benefit for a daily driver to have a V-Mount setup is horrible. Its really only going to be beneficial on the track where your always beating on your engine, and your always moving. If you get into a front end accident your car is almost certainly totaled.
Modified by 480sx at 2:44 PM 6/8/2009
I wouldnt make your mind up yet. You have yet to spend any real time on the forums or doing current day research, with successful setups, dyno charts, testimonials, what works, what doesnt, ect.sorrowfulkiller wrote:that being said I'm going to continue refining my "must buy" list til I get everything I'll need
No.sorrowfulkiller wrote:Do you need to get rid of the Air conditioning to run a t25 bottom mount turbo?
Trust me, not making up my mind just yet, that's why I've been posting so much recently in this forum. Trying to get as much info I can so I know what to expect when I get the car and parts.480sx wrote:
I wouldnt make your mind up yet. You have yet to spend any real time on the forums or doing current day research, with successful setups, dyno charts, testimonials, what works, what doesnt, ect.
Right now, you shouldnt even be worrying about buying parts. You should be worrying about filling your brain with knowledge.
So do a test fit with the compressor on the car when planning on where to put the oil return line, problem solved. thanksChaluska wrote:
No.
The t25 can keep the A/C, you just have to beware when putting in the oil drain line. cant put it too far forward, or the A/C compressor gets in the way
That's because it's not worth dynoing,sorrowfulkiller wrote:I wish I had some dyno charts of a ka24de with a t25 turbo... but I really can't find any
All truthDevilMB3017 wrote:
That's because it's not worth dynoing,
For your power goals, you could just get a JGS Kit for like $1000 plus an incredibly nice turbo, and be done 1-2-3. If you want to put in the kind of work you're making it seem like, you could easily have a ~500 rwhp car.