Ring Gear Bolts PITA (Differential)

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
gumby74
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okay, I just crawled under my car to double-shek.The lip does go to the outside. Unless I installed mine backwards. man. That would suck.


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RCA
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Um so first picture or second?

And for the record 1 3/4 inch socket as an install tool?

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gumby74 wrote:I think only the R230 housing runs different seals, so all R200 seals (output shaft, pinion gear) are the same part # for all years
Oh PS thanks for the info. This makes me feel much more confident about my seals being the right part

gumby74
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Would you be able to put up a picture of the seal 3/4 view in some good lighting?I installed mine with the smaller, thinner flap like lip to the outside of the housing.

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gumby74 wrote:I installed mine with the smaller, thinner flap like lip to the outside of the housing.
So basicly like the second picture (with the orange arrow)?
gumby74 wrote:Would you be able to put up a picture of the seal 3/4 view in some good lighting?
Not sure what you mean

gumby74
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Yes sir, like the second picture.Remember also they are pressed from the outside in.

gvenkat
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Car: 1993 240SX (1st and only owner)

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Hey, I already took my pumpkin apart. WHich components (other than the internal gears/rings/bearings) should I be keeping track of?

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gvenkat wrote:Hey, I already took my pumpkin apart. WHich components (other than the internal gears/rings/bearings) should I be keeping track of?
Um don't do anything yet. I accually have a few questions for you.

But you pretty much need to take pictures of every component on each side.

Keep track of the:Right- All bolts- Cap- Shims (including their sequence)

Left- All bolts- Cap- Shims (including their sequence)

But I need you to look at the caps (I called them carrier barrings) and tell me the "code" on the top part of them. By the top I mean the opposite side of them in the pictures.

Tell me what your right carrier barring reads and what your left one reads.

Thanks

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So I got back to work...Went to autozone and got a 1¾" socket and went to work. Took some pictures and want to see what you think...

First Side:

Other Side:

Let me know if every thing looks copasetic
Modified by rcabrita at 6:41 PM 8/3/2008

gumby74
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I am pretty sure that the side seal is in installed inside out.That smaller lip should be outside the diff housing, and the seal should be tapped from the outside in.Search under s15 helical. There will be a topic listing by 94 240sx. In this thread there is an FSM scan similar to the one you have posted above, only muuuch clearer. Let me see if my feeble computer skills can transfer the link.

http://i126.photobucket.com/al...7.jpg
Modified by gumby74 at 9:17 PM 8/3/2008

gumby74
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You will be looking at the 2 items at either end of the scan labeled side oil seal.

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RCA
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Good stuff thanks a ton for the response. The picture was definitly helpfulI will be trying it again...

After this non sense is all said and done make sure to email me your address...I need to UPS you some beer

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gumby74 wrote:You will be looking at the 2 items at either end of the scan labeled side oil seal.
Wait what?

gumby74
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In a nutshell, it appears the side seal you installed is inside out/backwards.That thin flap like lip should be outside the diff housing not to the inside. And for clarification, the seals are tapped in to the bore from the outside.No beer will be neccessary mainly because I am a route salesman for a local beer distributor, and I honestly don't drink very often. My driver's license has been very good to me and outside of food service delivery or longhaul driving, I can't imagine getting paid what I do elsewhere.Now when you finally get this bad boy installed, I am gonna want to see a couple of pics showing 2 very long stripes. Make it happen.

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gumby74 wrote:In a nutshell, it appears the side seal you installed is inside out/backwards.That thin flap like lip should be outside the diff housing not to the inside. And for clarification, the seals are tapped in to the bore from the outside.No beer will be neccessary mainly because I am a route salesman for a local beer distributor, and I honestly don't drink very often. My driver's license has been very good to me and outside of food service delivery or longhaul driving, I can't imagine getting paid what I do elsewhere.Now when you finally get this bad boy installed, I am gonna want to see a couple of pics showing 2 very long stripes. Make it happen.
Wow this is deeper then thought...

I think I removed the original seal incorrectly. I will post a picture of my theory. I kinda peeled away the orginal seal instead of removing it with the nail remover side of a hammer (Have scene it done on a NICO S15 diff swap).

But yea after this nightmare is over I will make sure to ruin a small amount of our enviroment

gumby74
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rcabrita wrote:
But yea after this nightmare is over I will make sure to ruin a small amount of our enviroment
NOW dammit!!!Hurry!!!

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Well my theroy was RIGHT!I never completely removed the original seal!

I noticed that in this thread: http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=217546

His pumkin looked diffrent...

So the face palm began because mine looked like this:

Once I realized this I went to work NOW SHE LOOKS FABULOUS

So this is the reason that I was having such a hard time! After learning how to remove subframe bushings I used the some principle to removing my seals. I burnt the rubber and chisled it away. But left the metal section of the seal still inside. Once that was gone the seal part of it was a no brainer. I knew I wasnt crazy but now I understand.

So now the game plan is purchase a new seal (ruined one because I wasnt careful putting it in then when removing it the spring popped out and the inner rubber lip was deformed). Once the new seal arrived rent a torque wrench, clean the pumkin out again then put her in and let her rip!

ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU ALL FOR HELPING ME!

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Hey another question guys:The seals came pre-lubed on the inside part of the seal (Side where the base of the input shaft makes contact with the seal).

A) Is it a special sort of comound?

B) Assuming it is grease,what type of "grease" is it?

C) What is it's purpose?

gumby74
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I have heard that it is Vaseline.I have also heard that any quality moly grease can be used should it be neccessary.As for the purpose, I would imagine the same principal that govern rod/main bearings would apply. A thin film of lubricant to prevent the output shaft from tearing the seal apart.I could also be talking out of my ***, so take what I have said with a grain of salt.

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Yea the answers to my questions weren't that important, and I had my assumptions (which you nailed on the head).

So I went online and I couldn't find any other aftermarket company that sold the oil seals I needed. So I wound up going with a OEM Nissan seal.When on http://www.courtesyparts.com I noticed that the same seal (Part #38342) for different cars had different prices.

For instance:95-99 Nissan S14 $11.86:http://www.courtesyparts.com/b....html

03-07 Nissan Z33 $7.32:http://www.courtesyparts.com/b....html

And when I searched the entire website I found about 12 different prices for the same part. But I didn't want to purchase seals for a B13 Sentra so I went with the Z33 seals because it was cheaper and I know the Z33s have R200 diffs in them so I know it is the same part.

When it arrives I will continue on this unnecessarily long diff swap

gumby74
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Make sure to spray some fresh paint on that pumpkin before installing it. I am kind of marveling at your patience to install this part.As far as aftermarket oil seals, I picked up a pair from AutoZone manufactured by Timkin I believe it was. The dimensions were correct, however the overall beefiness of the new part could not compare to the factory piece. I ended up oerdering a new pair from the local dealer ($14 x two) and recieved them the next day.

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gumby74 wrote:Make sure to spray some fresh paint on that pumpkin before installing it.
Black?

Also I was thinking of getting the S13 diff cover because the fins looks like it keeps the oil cooler or is it not worth the trouble?
gumby74 wrote:I am kind of marveling at your patience to install this part.
Tell me about it. Dumb little things like not being able to break loose ring gear bolts and not removing oil seals correctly cost me some serious time. Also I only work on my S14 on Sundays so that is also why it takes forever. Thanks for sticking with me haha
gumby74 wrote:As far as aftermarket oil seals, I picked up a pair from AutoZone manufactured by Timkin I believe it was. The dimensions were correct, however the overall beefiness of the new part could not compare to the factory piece. I ended up oerdering a new pair from the local dealer ($14 x two) and recieved them the next day.
You: $14 x 2 = 28

Me: $8 x 2 +($8 shipping) = $24 + a 7day wait

gumby74
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I sprayed my housing black and the diff cover red. I used the Dupli Color specifically for brake calipers. It's holding up very well. I also sprayed the rear lca's with the same red when I had the new bushings/balljoints pressed in as well. Random detailing I guess.You can not switch to the S13 cover because of the mounting studs. The S13 has 4 studs and the S14 only has 2? I think. That and the spacing. However there is an aftermarket cover that is offered by Trust I think. It's in the $150 ballpark though. I could not justify that expense.And believe me, I have convinced myself of some pretty...pointless things... to buy new shiny things.

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gumby74 wrote:I sprayed my housing black and the diff cover red. I used the Dupli Color specifically for brake calipers. It's holding up very well. I also sprayed the rear lca's with the same red when I had the new bushings/balljoints pressed in as well. Random detailing I guess.
There is no such thing as random details on this thread. the more knowlege the better.

I like the whole concept of your paint scheme. I like that idea and will come up with something neat!
gumby74 wrote:You can not switch to the S13 cover because of the mounting studs. The S13 has 4 studs and the S14 only has 2? I think. That and the spacing. However there is an aftermarket cover that is offered by Trust I think. It's in the $150 ballpark though. I could not justify that expense.And believe me, I have convinced myself of some pretty...pointless things... to buy new shiny things.
Yea I am guilty of that as well.But yea stock cover ftw!

Side note: Read about a Z33 diff oil cooler.It has a electic pump and a special cover and a "radiator" like cooler. I dout you need it but it helps if your a JDM Drifter.. i guess.

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Updates:After many long months I decided to continue with my LSD swap so here we are. In the process of replaceing axle/crown nuts, cotter pins blah blah

Exhaust is in and the diff isnt leaking. I filled her up with Mobile-1 Gear oil so now I need to find a 34mm? for my rear axle nuts then she hits the ground

Pumpkin, axles and cover are MUCH cleaner then when I start taking her apart. Many years of neglect, but now clean as a whistle
Modified by rcabrita at 11:58 AM 12/14/2008

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Got her off jack stands today and took a video of herSoon the brake will be bleed and its a go for a nice peel out

Car Specs:KA24DE- Headers- Stright pipe- HKS HiPower exhaust

Every thing else is stockhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4H3h5k-qSo


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