Eibachs do not lower the car enough to wear out stock struts and shocks any faster than they would wear on stock suspension. Your safeRicko wrote:Based on my own knowledge, Eibachs will wear out stock shocks and struts. With coilovers you get the whole assembly. +1 very easy installation, +2 should last a lot longer!
I have eibachs but when i get some money I will be getting some coilovers.
Wait for the coilovers, you'll be glad you did. My Stillen front lip is about 3 inches off the ground. Side skirts are lower, and rear corners sit slightly highly than everything else. I still haven't adjusted the coilovers fully. Keep in mind I'm on 19's and 35 series tires.Rob.Vegan wrote:I was planning on buying the eibachs until I saved enough money to get the coilovers. But now I'm pretty sure I will just wait until I have enough for the coilovers and then drop.
I still want to see pictures on how low people are going. Have the problems with offsets and what not been resolved. Are you guys experiencing any other problems. Tire tread okay ???
What is your course of action for fixing the camber? I am sitting pretty bad on camber. I purchased the front two cambers from SPC, however, the rear two bolts SPC sells for the G35/Z, im told may or may not fix the rear camber issue. Im not to savvy when comes to adjusting cambers.FGFCacoupe wrote:Offset problems? Offsets have nothing to do with coilovers in this aspect. I believe you mean camber. After I get everything adjusted I'll let you know. I'm sitting at -2.8 camber in the rear, but I need that amount of negativecamber to sit as low as I am without rubbing on my wheel/tire set up. With coilovers it's all personal preferance.
Before spending anymore money on components to correct the camber issue, see if you can find a good alignment guy. If you know of any performance shops or rims shops in your area, they should be able to recommend a good alignment guy. See what ge can do for your camber at your set drop. Depending on your wheel/tire set up, if your low enough, your going to have some negative camber or extensive fender work, or you'll rub. If your not too low, a good alignment may take enough of that negative camber out to satisfy you. If you don't surpass negative 2 degrees of camber, it's not that bad honestly. I mean your on coilovers, so you have to sacrifice a little to play. Also, the camber isn't what really kills the tires, it's when your toe is off. A good alignment guy should be able to get your toe set right, and take as much camber out as possible. You should be cool with that.Bori83 wrote:
What is your course of action for fixing the camber? I am sitting pretty bad on camber. I purchased the front two cambers from SPC, however, the rear two bolts SPC sells for the G35/Z, im told may or may not fix the rear camber issue. Im not to savvy when comes to adjusting cambers.
Thanks
Thanks for the advice. Ill post on here what the guy that aligns the car tells me. I would flip the tires but i cant b/c they are directional.FGFCacoupe wrote:
Before spending anymore money on components to correct the camber issue, see if you can find a good alignment guy. If you know of any performance shops or rims shops in your area, they should be able to recommend a good alignment guy. See what ge can do for your camber at your set drop. Depending on your wheel/tire set up, if your low enough, your going to have some negative camber or extensive fender work, or you'll rub. If your not too low, a good alignment may take enough of that negative camber out to satisfy you. If you don't surpass negative 2 degrees of camber, it's not that bad honestly. I mean your on coilovers, so you have to sacrifice a little to play. Also, the camber isn't what really kills the tires, it's when your toe is off. A good alignment guy should be able to get your toe set right, and take as much camber out as possible. You should be cool with that.
Rotate your tires every oil change. Your front wheels shouldn't have a camber issue. This way you will get even tire wear on all 4 wheels. This will save you a lot of miles. If that isn't good enough for you, then I'll tell you a little secret. After every 10-12k miles, flip your tires. What I mean by this is take the tire off the wheel, and put the side of the tire that was facing the outside on the inside and vice versa. This way the tread that was worn from the negative camber is on the outside, and the fresh side is now on the inside. Of course this will only work if your tires are reversable. (Many tires are) So now your tires are wearing pretty evenly. If you do all of these things, you'll get very close to the tire life you would have obtained at factory specs.
Hope this helps I put this in bold so hopefully it will help everyone
interesting.. those looks like the one off a of 350z .. the stock arm . I might as well go to the junk yard and try to find some for cheap hahamcheddadi wrote:this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...%3AIT
in west coast weather.... forever, probably at least as long as the car will live.hijack784 wrote:i see these coilovers only have 1 year warranty. with moderate street driving, how long should we expect these coilovers to last in west coast weather?
you'll get camber issues if you install them the way they are from BC racing. you'll have to go a little higher in the rear to have less negative camber in the rear. it doesn't matter much and I find it quite nice to get the extra liftoff oversteer lol. someone should make some adjustable camber rods for the rearLoop wrote:The rear camber issue you are mentioning will come from being lowered too much without a camber kit and/or alignment.
I installed my coilovers and took 3 hours to complete.
Exactly, the car is lowered...mcheddadi wrote:
you'll get camber issues if you install them the way they are from BC racing. you'll have to go a little higher in the rear to have less negative camber in the rear. it doesn't matter much and I find it quite nice to get the extra liftoff oversteer lol. someone should make some adjustable camber rods for the rear
lol I meant to quote someone else hahaLoop wrote:
Exactly, the car is lowered...
The installation is straight forward, like a plug and play setup. My advice to everyone is to make sure you preload the rear when installing(shop or you). The front are already preloaded from the manufacturer.sickkwidit wrote:how was the instalation for these coilovers loop (and who ever else installed them themselves)i should be getting these next week i dont know much about suspension, so should i just take it to a shop or is it no biggie to install them
Really close, HH. Is cyrus still working at MR?MRACING wrote:Are you from rowland heights OP? Looks like it from the background haha
hehe yes, I was the first one with the BC coilovers. I had the first batch of the coilovers, which they only made few at the time.Bori83 wrote:Loop,
You are probably the person who had the coilovers first. I have had mine installed no more than 6 months. I been having some rattling in the rear and poping in the front.
I went to my buddy's shop and he showed how the front spring was spinning as I turned the wheel and said the top hats were bad and that is why i had the poping noise. For the rear he said the struts were bad and that is what caused the rattle.
Have you had any issues? What do you think?
Thanks in advanceIzzy
The way our car is built, it is unlikely to have adjustable camber on the rear coilovers.Oilsink wrote:so they dont have an adjustable camber in the rear? and also has anyone been able to find a key that allows front camber adjustment without removing the coils?
Do BC Racing have coilover for 2009 altima 2.5 liter model?mcheddadi wrote:fits all the 07+ altima sedans