Review: BC Racing BR Type Coilovers

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Ricko
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Based on my own knowledge, Eibachs will wear out stock shocks and struts. With coilovers you get the whole assembly. +1 very easy installation, +2 should last a lot longer!

I have eibachs but when I get some money I will be getting some coilovers.
Modified by Ricko at 7:13 AM 8/27/2009


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Rob.Vegan
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I was planning on buying the eibachs until I saved enough money to get the coilovers. But now I'm pretty sure I will just wait until I have enough for the coilovers and then drop.

I still want to see pictures on how low people are going. Have the problems with offsets and what not been resolved. Are you guys experiencing any other problems. Tire tread okay ???

FGFCacoupe
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Ricko wrote:Based on my own knowledge, Eibachs will wear out stock shocks and struts. With coilovers you get the whole assembly. +1 very easy installation, +2 should last a lot longer!

I have eibachs but when i get some money I will be getting some coilovers.
Eibachs do not lower the car enough to wear out stock struts and shocks any faster than they would wear on stock suspension. Your safe

On another note, Coilovers is your best buy. I had Eibachs before I installed the coilovers. From now on all of my cars will be on coils.
Rob.Vegan wrote:I was planning on buying the eibachs until I saved enough money to get the coilovers. But now I'm pretty sure I will just wait until I have enough for the coilovers and then drop.

I still want to see pictures on how low people are going. Have the problems with offsets and what not been resolved. Are you guys experiencing any other problems. Tire tread okay ???
Wait for the coilovers, you'll be glad you did. My Stillen front lip is about 3 inches off the ground. Side skirts are lower, and rear corners sit slightly highly than everything else. I still haven't adjusted the coilovers fully. Keep in mind I'm on 19's and 35 series tires.

Offset problems? Offsets have nothing to do with coilovers in this aspect. I believe you mean camber. After I get everything adjusted I'll let you know. I'm sitting at -2.8 camber in the rear, but I need that amount of negative camber to sit as low as I am without rubbing on my wheel/tire set up. With coilovers it's all personal preferance.
Modified by FGFCacoupe at 6:19 AM 8/27/2009

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Bori83
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FGFCacoupe wrote:Offset problems? Offsets have nothing to do with coilovers in this aspect. I believe you mean camber. After I get everything adjusted I'll let you know. I'm sitting at -2.8 camber in the rear, but I need that amount of negativecamber to sit as low as I am without rubbing on my wheel/tire set up. With coilovers it's all personal preferance.
What is your course of action for fixing the camber? I am sitting pretty bad on camber. I purchased the front two cambers from SPC, however, the rear two bolts SPC sells for the G35/Z, im told may or may not fix the rear camber issue. Im not to savvy when comes to adjusting cambers.

Thanks

FGFCacoupe
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Bori83 wrote:
What is your course of action for fixing the camber? I am sitting pretty bad on camber. I purchased the front two cambers from SPC, however, the rear two bolts SPC sells for the G35/Z, im told may or may not fix the rear camber issue. Im not to savvy when comes to adjusting cambers.

Thanks
Before spending anymore money on components to correct the camber issue, see if you can find a good alignment guy. If you know of any performance shops or rims shops in your area, they should be able to recommend a good alignment guy. See what ge can do for your camber at your set drop. Depending on your wheel/tire set up, if your low enough, your going to have some negative camber or extensive fender work, or you'll rub. If your not too low, a good alignment may take enough of that negative camber out to satisfy you. If you don't surpass negative 2 degrees of camber, it's not that bad honestly. I mean your on coilovers, so you have to sacrifice a little to play. Also, the camber isn't what really kills the tires, it's when your toe is off. A good alignment guy should be able to get your toe set right, and take as much camber out as possible. You should be cool with that.

Rotate your tires every oil change. Your front wheels shouldn't have a camber issue. This way you will get even tire wear on all 4 wheels. This will save you a lot of miles. If that isn't good enough for you, then I'll tell you a little secret. After every 10-12k miles, flip your tires. What I mean by this is take the tire off the wheel, and put the side of the tire that was facing the outside on the inside and vice versa. This way the tread that was worn from the negative camber is on the outside, and the fresh side is now on the inside. Of course this will only work if your tires are reversable. (Many tires are) So now your tires are wearing pretty evenly. If you do all of these things, you'll get very close to the tire life you would have obtained at factory specs.

Hope this helps I put this in bold so hopefully it will help everyone

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Rob.Vegan
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That's good info thanks.

And ya I meant camber sorry about saying offset, that was the first word that came to mind when trying to describe what I was talking about.

My friend's Tacoma had some camber issues after getting long travel on his truck, so he went to some place that gives you lifetime alignments and what not for free. He was in there every week after going balls out on the weekend and they were getting pissed at him.

I'm pretty stoked on coilovers. Hopefully it can be a christmas present to myself

edit: Also I'm not too worried about lowering the front much more. I like the level the Stillen Fascia sits at stock height, I'm also pretty content about the rear. But the sides bug the hell out of me.

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Bori83
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FGFCacoupe wrote:
Before spending anymore money on components to correct the camber issue, see if you can find a good alignment guy. If you know of any performance shops or rims shops in your area, they should be able to recommend a good alignment guy. See what ge can do for your camber at your set drop. Depending on your wheel/tire set up, if your low enough, your going to have some negative camber or extensive fender work, or you'll rub. If your not too low, a good alignment may take enough of that negative camber out to satisfy you. If you don't surpass negative 2 degrees of camber, it's not that bad honestly. I mean your on coilovers, so you have to sacrifice a little to play. Also, the camber isn't what really kills the tires, it's when your toe is off. A good alignment guy should be able to get your toe set right, and take as much camber out as possible. You should be cool with that.

Rotate your tires every oil change. Your front wheels shouldn't have a camber issue. This way you will get even tire wear on all 4 wheels. This will save you a lot of miles. If that isn't good enough for you, then I'll tell you a little secret. After every 10-12k miles, flip your tires. What I mean by this is take the tire off the wheel, and put the side of the tire that was facing the outside on the inside and vice versa. This way the tread that was worn from the negative camber is on the outside, and the fresh side is now on the inside. Of course this will only work if your tires are reversable. (Many tires are) So now your tires are wearing pretty evenly. If you do all of these things, you'll get very close to the tire life you would have obtained at factory specs.

Hope this helps I put this in bold so hopefully it will help everyone
Thanks for the advice. Ill post on here what the guy that aligns the car tells me. I would flip the tires but i cant b/c they are directional.

Besides that i appreciate the advice.

nnguyen
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interesting.. those looks like the one off a of 350z .. the stock arm . I might as well go to the junk yard and try to find some for cheap haha

I didn't try out the SPC 72050, was scared that once i install it and it didnt work ill be screw out of 210 bucks .

Any1 else tried anything yet ? to fix the negative camber in the back?

hijack784
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i see these coilovers only have 1 year warranty. with moderate street driving, how long should we expect these coilovers to last in west coast weather?

hijack784
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i see these coilovers only have 1 year warranty. with moderate street driving, how long should we expect these coilovers to last in west coast weather?

mrodrig2
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hijack784 wrote:i see these coilovers only have 1 year warranty. with moderate street driving, how long should we expect these coilovers to last in west coast weather?
in west coast weather.... forever, probably at least as long as the car will live.

duffman8189
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I have a camber in my rear aswell. I think im in need of new tires because im getting this whistling sound from my back when i reach 35-up MPH.

A mechanic that was at the place where i installed my wheels told me he could fix the camber at his body shop by stretching out the frame or something like that and it would give me even wear after. Anyone know if this might not be a good idea?

mcsniper703
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is bc coilover still selling or discontinue?

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kanejuice
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There still selling.. they emailed me today and said the following.

We do have them for your car, they will be 1050 USD shipped to your door. Also, if you order them through us i can authorize for any custom spring rates and valving to match at no additional charge. If you have any other questions or i can be of assistance in ordering a set for you, please do not hesitate to contact me.

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AppleBonker
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For those with the coilovers, if you've got rear camber issues is it from lowering the car a ton? I'm definitely interested in snagging some, but the rear camber has me (only) slightly concerned. I'm not planning on slamming my car, I just need to lower with something adjustable (springs probably wont work well with the extra weight I'm carrying in the trunk). Sorry to revive a slightly old thread.

Oh yeah, did you all install by yourselves? If so, about how long did it take you?

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Loop
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The rear camber issue you are mentioning will come from being lowered too much without a camber kit and/or alignment.

I installed my coilovers and took 3 hours to complete.

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AppleBonker
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Loop, thanks for the info. Guess I shouldn't have to worry about the camber issue then. I'm not gonna drop too low. With the extra weight I carry in the trunk (battery, amps, MDF construction - probably close to 150 lbs) it's not worth potentially bottoming out. Should I consider going with stiffer springs in the rear to make up for the weight that will always be there?

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mcheddadi
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Loop wrote:The rear camber issue you are mentioning will come from being lowered too much without a camber kit and/or alignment.

I installed my coilovers and took 3 hours to complete.
you'll get camber issues if you install them the way they are from BC racing. you'll have to go a little higher in the rear to have less negative camber in the rear. it doesn't matter much and I find it quite nice to get the extra liftoff oversteer lol. someone should make some adjustable camber rods for the rear

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Loop
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mcheddadi wrote:
you'll get camber issues if you install them the way they are from BC racing. you'll have to go a little higher in the rear to have less negative camber in the rear. it doesn't matter much and I find it quite nice to get the extra liftoff oversteer lol. someone should make some adjustable camber rods for the rear
Exactly, the car is lowered...

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mcheddadi
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Loop wrote:
Exactly, the car is lowered...
lol I meant to quote someone else haha

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Loop
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Applebonker: I would contact BC Racing for a better advice.

Mcheddadi: No worries.

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sickkwidit
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how was the instalation for these coilovers loop (and who ever else installed them themselves)i should be getting these next week i dont know much about suspension, so should i just take it to a shop or is it no biggie to install them

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Loop
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sickkwidit wrote:how was the instalation for these coilovers loop (and who ever else installed them themselves)i should be getting these next week i dont know much about suspension, so should i just take it to a shop or is it no biggie to install them
The installation is straight forward, like a plug and play setup. My advice to everyone is to make sure you preload the rear when installing(shop or you). The front are already preloaded from the manufacturer.

Sickkwidit, great choice. Its a night and day difference between the Eibachs. I have been in a few AC with Eibachs now and have told many to push it harder than usual. Its not close to the BC coilovers. Some of the people have actually said my ride is smoother.

Sorry, the third question I won't be able to answer. Though I could tell you that a shop is going to charge you more than a spring only installation. You will definitely need a alignment soon after the installation.

MRACING
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Are you from rowland heights OP? Looks like it from the background haha

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Loop
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MRACING wrote:Are you from rowland heights OP? Looks like it from the background haha
Really close, HH. Is cyrus still working at MR?

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Bori83
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Loop,

You are probably the person who had the coilovers first. I have had mine installed no more than 6 months. I been having some rattling in the rear and poping in the front.

I went to my buddy's shop and he showed how the front spring was spinning as I turned the wheel and said the top hats were bad and that is why i had the poping noise. For the rear he said the struts were bad and that is what caused the rattle.

Have you had any issues? What do you think?

Thanks in advanceIzzy

Oilsink
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so they dont have an adjustable camber in the rear? and also has anyone been able to find a key that allows front camber adjustment without removing the coils?

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Loop
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Bori83 wrote:Loop,

You are probably the person who had the coilovers first. I have had mine installed no more than 6 months. I been having some rattling in the rear and poping in the front.

I went to my buddy's shop and he showed how the front spring was spinning as I turned the wheel and said the top hats were bad and that is why i had the poping noise. For the rear he said the struts were bad and that is what caused the rattle.

Have you had any issues? What do you think?

Thanks in advanceIzzy
hehe yes, I was the first one with the BC coilovers. I had the first batch of the coilovers, which they only made few at the time.

It sounds like you did not preload the front or rear correctly/enough. The rotating spring is perfectly fine as its a MacPherson strut.

You can always contact BC Racing, they will guide you to fixing your problem. i.e preloading

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Loop
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Oilsink wrote:so they dont have an adjustable camber in the rear? and also has anyone been able to find a key that allows front camber adjustment without removing the coils?
The way our car is built, it is unlikely to have adjustable camber on the rear coilovers.

As for the front, I haven't bothered in looking another way. Take off the coilovers and adjust the camber from there. That is what I do and it only gets faster when adjusting it the next time.

mcsniper703
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mcheddadi wrote:fits all the 07+ altima sedans
Do BC Racing have coilover for 2009 altima 2.5 liter model?


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