repost****stuttering Q ?'s

[blind6]

***Sorry for posting twice, just want this in the right place***I was driving to work today with my cruise locked in at 80mph and my Q started jerking/stuttering and the TCS light and slip light started blinking back and forth. When I pulled to the shoulder my idle dropped below 500 and started idling really rough and low and the lights started dimming. After sitting for a few I started it again and started to drive about a mile then it started all over again. My car is a 97 w/ 126,000 miles. MAF was cleaned recently, TB was cleaned, new plugs less than 2,000 miles, new fuel filter and BG44k. I did search and all I could conclude was bad fpcu or maf. Is there any particular tests that can isolate which it is without breaking the bank. Will a OBDII reader help me in this case? Not trying to repost but get specific info, thanks in advance.

[96Qowner]

blind6, it sounds exactly like a misbehaving MAF, but my understanding is that it's usually more of a problem with the G50s than Y33s. The dimming lights might have been from the stumbling idle. I'd start 'er up and wiggle the MAF connector - see if you can get it to replicate. I doubt it's the FPCU in your case.

Reading through a couple old threads, I also ran across mention of an alternator recall for the early Y33s. You might check the battery terminals and/or read the alternator voltage. But apparently, you have no trouble starting the car, so that's iffy.

zerothread?id=49830

Autozone will read your OBDII for free, if you want to try that.

[blind6]

There are currently no recall notices open for my vehicle I'll troubleshoot it myself after work tonight and see what I find. Any other suggestions out there, other than the MAF connectors?

[Q451990]

It appears that the recall begins with Q45's manufactured from 2/13/1997-2/27/1998. http://www.nissannews.com/site...shtml

I would definately suspect a bad alterator. Check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter... should be about 14VDC at idle... not definative, but a good start.

Heath

[blind6]

Alright I'm gonna redirect to this page by request of other users. Q451990, could you check out the conversation in the Q45 forum about this topic to get spun up or do you want me to repost. I'll keep my technical stuff in here from now on. Any help is more than welcome.

Is the clip for the Y33 injectors in the same place as the G50? If I use the info from Q45.org is that pretty much the same?Thanks for all the help.

[blind6]

???

[areznik]

Had exactly same thing this summer. Blinking TCS and Slip, dimming lights. The solution is one word - bad alternator. Check the voltage on your battery and I bet it will be below 10. When you drive the alternator recharges the battery and supplies and voltage needed to keep your electric components on. In my case this problem lasted for about a week (i.e. it would go away for sometime and then reappear until the alternator just died). Literally, if my mechanic was located half a mile farther, I would have to tow it. Go to any AutoZone and they can check your alternator.

I would not drive the car since it can die fast and you will have to tow it.

All the best,Andre

[blind6]

I tested the alt and the numbers worked out. 14 at idle and 12 with lights, radio, ac, and interior lights on. Does this still sound like the culprit? I just purchased a used 01 MAF, hope it wasn't a waste of money.

[maxnix]

Then do a deep cycle check of the battery. Doubt seriously MAF is bad already. Sustained current draw is more important then peak voltage in testing the alternator.

[blind6]

Maybe I was misunderstood. I am waiting for a '01 MAF, my current MAF is original and has 126,000miles on it.

[maxnix]

No, unless air filter change intervals were abused or K&N filters used (non-OEM), FY33 seldom require MAF replacement.

[elwesso]

at least take your car to autozone for a free alternator CURRENT check.

[96Qowner]

at least take your car to autozone for a free alternator CURRENT check.

And, ahem, a code reader.

[blind6]

No, unless air filter change intervals were abused or K&N filters used (non-OEM), FY33 seldom require MAF replacement.

I did use a K&N for awhile and recently went to a WIX filter.

[blind6]

Pulled my alt tonight and noticed that the intake tube that connects to the MAF on the TB side wasn't fully seated. Could that have been a cause of this problem? Would a airleak cause a faulty reading and making the motor go whack?

My battery tested good, but the bench tester for the alt was down. I'll have to take it tomorrow to test it.

[Q45tech]

OF COURSE An air leak [after the MAF] will wreck havoc with MAF reading.

A common thing after servicing by non experts......those who haven't had the pleasure of diagnosing one.

[96Qowner]

Pulled my alt tonight and noticed that the intake tube that connects to the MAF on the TB side wasn't fully seated. Could that have been a cause of this problem? Would a airleak cause a faulty reading and making the motor go whack?

Heheh, ya, I'm guessin' you found your problem, blind6.

[blind6]

I hope, I'll put it all together today and see what happens. I didn't realize it took an expert to work on these cars though. Maybe I should end my Q days and get a Honda again. Thanks for the help and I'll post up with results.

[maxnix]

A lot more Hondas than Q45.

[elwesso]

Im going to go against the grain, to a point.....

You dont have to take the Q to a Q45 EXPERT EVERY TIME. However, you cannot just throw your car to the wolves and expect them to know what to do!

For simple things like brakes and suspension work (exc. active) the Q is fine for most techs... I mean, its nothing special, not complicated at all by todays standards... FOR MOST OWNERS. Obviously if you want someone to be able to tweak your rear sway bar for the most symetric handling, you gotta have someone who knows their stuff...

For me and as it should be for everyone, the best thing I have found is to do any diagnosis for a problem YOURSELF and then if you cant replace the part yourself, TELL someone to replace a certain part.....

You start having problems when you take your car in for a problem in which you have no leads in whats going on... Things like that on the Q can be VERY hard to diagnose even by someone who knows what their doing to a certain degree.......

If the owner does not know anything about what their doing or whatever, then yes, you MUST take it to a Q45 expert (not someone who just works on Q45s, theres a difference) if you expect things to get done the right way first.....

[DrewQ45]

OF COURSE An air leak [after the MAF] will wreck havoc with MAF reading.

A common thing after servicing by non experts......those who haven't had the pleasure of diagnosing one.

It's also a common thing after servicing by the experts....namely the dealer. I posted a long time ago about this. Left Troncalli Infiniti after an intake cleaning and the car was shutting off at stop lights and running like crap. I knew what it was before I even popped the hood. Sure enough, the clamps on the hose were loose.

...Drew..

[blind6]

A lot more Hondas than Q45.

I was joking even though we do have a Odyssey. The improper placement of the tube would have been my fault. When I ran into the problem with the TB cleaning was the ;ast time I had the intake out. I must have been in a hurry to get everything back in and overlooked seating the tube. The alternator and battery both tested good. It did take awhile before the problems started, is this a progressive type of mess-up? It was less then a month between the two.

[blind6]

I've reinstalled the alt and when I started the car up this loud grinding /buzzing noise started comming from the alt. I stopped and readjusted the belts and tried again and it continued to make this noise. Would a belt that has been tightened too much make this noise, or what else could it be? The battery and the alt both tested out good. It didn't make this noise before. The noise increases and decreases with rpm. I have never had so many problems with one car. Were they made to be projects? My 81 Jeep CJ7 isn't this frustrating. Who knows why I'm complaining, I love this car when it's running great.

[maxnix]

Drive belt tension has to be in the correct range so that there is enough that it doesn't slip but not so mcuh as the bearing is overloaded. This is true of any belt driven accesory.

Is this an OEM alternator?

[PopPop]

I've reinstalled the alt and when I started the car up this loud grinding /buzzing noise started comming from the alt. I stopped and readjusted the belts and tried again and it continued to make this noise. Would a belt that has been tightened too much make this noise, or what else could it be? The battery and the alt both tested out good. It didn't make this noise before. The noise increases and decreases with rpm. I have never had so many problems with one car. Were they made to be projects? My 81 Jeep CJ7 isn't this frustrating. Who knows why I'm complaining, I love this car when it's running great.

Did you take off or apart your Alternator Idler Pulley? Wrong assembly will cause this noise! This is the one between the Harmonic Balancer and Alt. that the belt rides on! If so this is how it's re-assembled! 1. THREADED ADJUSTER SITS BEHIND BRACKET WITH THREADED PART COMING THREW MOUNTING BRACKET 2. LARGEST WASHER GOES ON NEXT 3. IDLER PULLEY NEXT 4. SMALLER OF TWO WASHERS NEXT 5. CUP SHAPED PLATE IS NEXT 6. THEN FINALLY YOUR NUT

DO NOT DISASSEMBLE UNLESS NECESSARY! Always loosen 14mm locking nut on Idlers first! This will allow you to tighten or loosen tensioner bolt! Next you can loosen 12mm tensioner bolt enough counter-clockwise to remove belts! Installation is reverse!

[blind6]

[QUOTE=PopPop] Did you take off or apart your Alternator Idler Pulley? QUOTE]

I only took the alt off, nothing else. The idler pulley was only loosened. When I installed the alt i put the long bolt throught the bottom first with bolt on the back side. Then I tightened the top 12mm bolt. After I placed the belt on the pulleys I tightened the fan and the center pulley. The idler pulley was tighened and adjusted last. I wasn't sure exactly how much slack to give it so I gave it about 1/4in flex. I started it then made adjustments, loosening it some more and it continued to make the noise. I did smell rubber the first time then it was loosened and the smell went away but the noise remained. Is it possible that the bearings were damaged due to this overtightening or does it need to be loosened more?What is the proper slack for the alt belt? It is the OEM alt.

[Q45tech]

Don't assume that just because a tech works at an Infiniti dealership he/she is an expert..........in the absolute sense of the word.

Too many newer cars, too many old timers left for Lexus during the lean times [95-2001].

In ATL with about 47 techs at 5 dealers there are probably 4-5 that I would trust 1 per dealership.......unless he's out sick.

Be sure you interview the tech who will work on your car or accept the consequences!

I have many friends who are physicans [golf/cards] I won't let any of them work on me, after asking them a few technical questions.

[blind6]

Is it possible that the bearings were damaged due to this overtightening or does it need to be loosened more?What is the proper slack for the alt belt? It is the OEM alt.

????

[Falkdesigns]

My alternator made a noticeable whir that changed with RPM's, it eventually died and left me parked along the 405, we replaced it and it's been fine ever since.

edit: don't let this stuff get you down on these cars bro! When I got mine I had to replace 2 O2 sensors right away, the alternator a few months later and 90% of the suspension components. Aside from that, it's been an amazing car in the 2 years I've had it now, and all the other money that's gone into it is for parts that I WANTED, not needed. I love my Q and once you sort yours out, I know you will too. We just bought the wife a 98 Volvo V70 T5 and we're going through the same issues with it. IMO, when you buy a used car that's this old, you have to do some of the stuff the last owner did NOT do to bring it back to spec, from then on, as long as you do what's needed when it's needed, you have a nice older car.
Modified by Falkdesigns at 4:52 PM 3/29/2006

[blind6]

How much belt slack is there when tightened? Is the only thing that mounts the alt in place is the long bolt on the bottom with the funky nut and the short bolt on top, both with washers. No bushings or rubber spacers???