repost****stuttering Q ?'s

[maxnix]

Not to be a bore, but you really need to get the FSM and TSB and read them. It will help immeasurably. Really.

[blind6]

I have researched the downloaded FSM and it didn't really shed too much light on this subject, maybe I was looking in the wrong section(electrical?). I'm working on getting the one from nissan publications as soon as I get a chance to order it($180). So I am currently working with what I have and turning to resident/knowledgeable people with first hand know-how for help.

FOR THE RECORD: I do utilize the search option on this forum and I do reference the FSM for information, I am not afraid to ask others for help when I can't source my requested info. Nobodys obligated to post responces, if you are tired of the thread stop reading it. But like I said, all the information is greatly appreciated.

[blind6]

The bearings in my alt sound horrible. Is the Q suppose to charge at idle? While my car was idling the battery reading slowly decreased by .01 steadily. Once the throttle was pressed it charged back up to the 14's. I was going to replace the bearings but figured I'd just pick up a new and rebuild all the internals and have it for another day.

Is there a off brand that can be cross referenced with the OEM for the alt. Redline automotive carries alt's in stock and I'm gonna try to pick one up today.

[Falkdesigns]

I did NOT get a factory Alt, it's been fine for almost 2 years. I left it at my buddy Jeff's shop and he charged me 275, I picked it up after work that same day.

I'm sure my Q will implode shortly though since I didn't use a factory part.

[96Qowner]

What's the price difference? You can get an OEM from Joe for $270.

Q45tech has years of experience seeing what works and what doesn't. Apparently a Bosch isn't a good idea:

"Bosch from AZ thats the 100 AMP one on a good day..........as I said we see massive failures on them but maybe you'll be lucky."

zer...age=2

[Falkdesigns]

Mine was 275 installed. I don't know what brand, it's not Bosch though. It's my friends shop, I've used them exclusively for over 6 years, and he used to build engines on the Nissan GTP Z's of the early 90's. I trust him fully, and he's a big backer of using factory parts, but if he tells me I can use something else and it's as good, I take his word. Then again, I'm expecting my car to blow up any day now.

[elwesso]

nissan alternators are made by hitachi, so maybe falks shop knows someone who rebuilds hitachi alternators? I think rebuilds sometimes get a bad name, however, cheaper rebuilds generally arent as good... its pretty stupid to say that IT CANNOT BE DONE since the factory rebuilds alternators, its just a matter of knowing how to do it.

I think the Y33 alternator is a lot easier to replace than the G50. If I recall, Y33 alt may take like 1-2 hours where as the G50 may take 3-4 (I could do mine in about 25 mins due to the battery being removed )

[96Qowner]

I'm 150,000 miles into the rebuilt on my Accord. When the OEM failed at 220,000 I decided I could try a cheapie. So, ya, it's not like it HAS to be genuine OEM.

[96Qowner]

A used alternator for a 97 just popped up on ebay today.

$89.95 Buy-it-Now price:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

[elwesso]

The thing about the rebuilt alts for the G50 isnt so much the fact they may go out every year, but its the fact that they are a PAIN to replace... ill pay an extra $150 to only have to do it once every 60k

However, lots of times alternators wont go out if you replace your battery every 3-5 years like you should

[Q45tech]

3 years for conventional battery. Alternators should last ~~200,000 miles if kept clean [air flow] assuming belts are tensioned correctly [measured].

[blind6]

I had mine rebuilt yesterday and it took about 2hrs and $130, I think he gave me a nice military discount. It also has a two year warranty now. The bearings were shot and there were some diodes inside that were fried.

[blind6]

UPDATE: After the alt was installed my car was still acting up. I went to a shop to get it diagnosed and of course it wouldn't act up so he wouldn't run it for the fear of a misdiagnosis. I then went and installed the MAF I purchased and changed the brake fluid and now the car is running strong again. I'm not totally positive which was the culprit but they have both been fixed/replaced and the Q is something to brag about again. Thanks for all the help, knowledge, and patience.

[maxnix]

I'm working on getting the one from nissan publications as soon as I get a chance to order it($180).

Just download the FSM and TSB in Acrobat format for the one day $20 subscription fee.

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infiniti/

[Q45tech]

The alternator is a 3 phase generator with a diode in series with each coil the outputs of the parallel coils thru the diode are tied together.

Thus you have 3 [110/3= 36 amps] in parallel, obviously one diode will fail before the other 2 then the cascade failure occurs.

If a diode fails by shorting AC ripple is superimposed on the DC this can destroy electronic modules in the car [many have a diode in them to filter out the ac ripple to remain somewhat safe].

If a diode fails open, then the alternator can just supply 72 amps 2 failures you are down to 36 amps.

The Regulator IC TRIES to compensate for the diminished capacity by increasing field winding voltage this causes the other diodes to fail eventually.

Most failures other than slip ring commutator and bearing wear are caused because the alternator overheats from lack of cleaning air flow obstructions.

[96Qowner]

the Q is something to brag about again. Thanks for all the help, knowledge, and patience.

Glad she's runnin' right again.