replacing Tension rod bushings

[Jehangir]

Well.....after the much awaited arrival of my bushing, DHL assures me they will be here tomorrow. Which means I will be replacing my Tension rod bushings, along with the Stabilizer bar bushings and Tie Rod ends.1) Will I need any special tools to remove the Tension Rod?

2) Will I have to grease any of the bushings

3)Will I have to have the car towed to the ailagnment shop, or can I drive it about 5 miles?

[elwesso]

1. Just a 17mm socket (I think).. You have to take the tenson rods out to replace the bushings with a press... A shop could od that with a lot of ease.

2. no

3. Just mark the tie rod end threads and try and eyeball it as much as you can, youll be fine to drive >20 miles

[maxnix]

Don't do the final torque until the car is on its suspension.

[Jeff Williams]

1. Just a 17mm socket (I think).. You have to take the tenson rods out to replace the bushings with a press... A shop could od that with a lot of ease.

2. no

3. Just mark the tie rod end threads and try and eyeball it as much as you can, youll be fine to drive >20 miles

I marked my tie-rod ends with a Testors paint pen, and counted the turns. Both sides were the same, I think 23 turns or something like that. My car was perfect when I had it checked. They didn't even charge me, since I get so much work done.

If you haven't changed the steering boots yet, go ahead and do that while the ite-rods are off. They are $21 each, from the local dealership, or even cheaper from Joe. (A worthwhile investment, since you are taking the steering apart anyway). If they are not leaking or cracked now, they will be soon.

[Rex]

Maybe it's just me, but there seems to be discussion of both Tie Rods and Tension Rods without much differentiation between the teo??

[Jehangir]

So I was thinking about putting the car on those ramps then tourqing it. What do ya'all think. What do you mean Rex?

[elwesso]

I agree with Jeff.. If your going to have it apart replace the boots, the boot kit is only like $20 or osmething from Joe!

Maybe it's just me, but there seems to be discussion of both Tie Rods and Tension Rods without much differentiation between the teo??

FOr clarification purposes

Tie Rod= thing that connects the steering rack to the hub, to steer the carTension rod- Goes from front of car and connects to the transverse link, it holds the wheel in place in the wheel well under acceleration and braking..

heres a front suspension diagram!

[Rex]

So I was thinking about putting the car on those ramps then tourqing it. What do ya'all think. What do you mean Rex?

Just your thread title and first mention was of the Tension Rods, but most of the "advice" you were gettgin applies to the Tie Rods. Seemed easy to get lost in the responses.

If it's clear for everyone else, then it's just me .

[elwesso]

The only thing you need to worry about torquing under load are the things that could change alignment under load..

for instance, on the tension rods, dont worry about the front bolt, just do the back 2 on the transverse link... put the nut on so its on, and then tighten it up..

I didnt bother with doing it under load, not sure it makes much difference IMO.... only thing I worry about doing under load is the sway bar end links

[RobertsnewQ]

The only thing you need to worry about torquing under load are the things that could change alignment under load..

Wes - with rubber bushings, if you tighten it with the wheels hanging down then when you put the car on the ground it will twist the crap out of them and possibly tear them. Rubber bushings work by plastic deformation of the rubber material, and there is a limit to how much the inner and outer sleeves can turn relative to each other.

Always tighten them under load. Of course this doesn't apply to poly or heims.

Hope that makes sense.

[maxnix]

Wes - with rubber bushings, if you tighten it with the wheels hanging down then when you put the car on the ground it will twist the crap out of them and possibly tear them. Rubber bushings work by plastic deformation of the rubber material, and there is a limit to how much the inner and outer sleeves can turn relative to each other.

Always tighten them under load. Of course this doesn't apply to poly or heims.

Hope that makes sense.

SOP for anyone that reads the FSM or the posts on this board.

[elwesso]

Wes - with rubber bushings, if you tighten it with the wheels hanging down then when you put the car on the ground it will twist the crap out of them and possibly tear them. Rubber bushings work by plastic deformation of the rubber material, and there is a limit to how much the inner and outer sleeves can turn relative to each other.

Always tighten them under load. Of course this doesn't apply to poly or heims.

Hope that makes sense.

ah ok that makes sense... Good information to know and it didnt apply to me since I was installing the ones with heim joints..

Anywho, i think you could probably get away with just jacking up the suspension so that its fairly level.... I dont konw, its probably better to just tighten it udner load, but it can be really hard to access that stuff with the wheels on!

[Jehangir]

Well guys...The job is done. It really wasn't that difficult. What made it a little frustrating was the fact that one of my tension rods was not the same as the other. Thus, the bushings wouldn't fit into it. No big deal, I just called Joe and they sent me a new tension rod the next day. I have it all together and the car drives fine.Now, the whole point of doing this was to fix a rattle in my front passenger side wheel well. This ofcourse is still there.

[elwesso]

REALLY, i was unaware the tension rod bushings were different from side to side...

[Rex]

Well guys...The job is done. It really wasn't that difficult. What made it a little frustrating was the fact that one of my tension rods was not the same as the other. Thus, the bushings wouldn't fit into it. No big deal, I just called Joe and they sent me a new tension rod the next day. I have it all together and the car drives fine.Now, the whole point of doing this was to fix a rattle in my front passenger side wheel well. This ofcourse is still there.

To be clear, R&R of the Tension Rods is "simple", but nonetheless physical?

I've got a new set on the way and then will most likley re-hab my old ones for sale ... I think. How much were the bushings and do you have the part #?

I really want to get all this stuff (shocks, springs, upper links & Tension Rods) on before NOPI, but I'm a little lazy .

[Jehangir]

I'll post the part # in a day or so

[Jehangir]

What do you guys think is causing the rattle/clunking sound?

[RobertsnewQ]

Swaybar end links

[Jehangir]

what are they? do you have a part number

[Jehangir]

also is there anyway to tell if mine are bad

[squeefoo]

What made it a little frustrating was the fact that one of my tension rods was not the same as the other. Thus, the bushings wouldn't fit into it.

This sounds like someone replaced one of the rods with one from an "active" model.

Now, the whole point of doing this was to fix a rattle in my front passenger side wheel well. This of course is still there.

Like Robert said end link (had that), or upper transverse link, or worn caliper bushings, the strut nut in the middle could be loose (had that on something else) or the strut cold be bad.

Just tighten the end link bolt on the bottom while holding the top with a wrench

[RobertsnewQ]

Yes, Squeefo has a good one too - the caliper bushings.

TO check the end links, whack the bar with a rubber hammer with the car sitting on the ground or on ramps (make sure the wheels are even so that the bar isn't putting strain on either link).

Pretty common nissan problem.

Check the other stuff too, but that sounds like an endlink.

[elwesso]

This sounds like someone replaced one of the rods with one from an "active" model.

His car is an active model...

[Jehangir]

I don't think it matters as far as the bushings are concerned. Rex, the tension rod cost about $87.00 and the bushings were about $32.00. If I did this job again I would probably just buy the whole tension rod, because it cost me another $32.00 to have 1 bushing pressed in.

Oh, and Wes, I have read that the notch on the bushing should be in line with "bar" on the tension rod. But the tension rod that I took off my car had the notch a 180 degrees from what the FSM says. Also the Tension rod which I bought has the notch in the same position as the one I took off. I wonder if the 9093 tension rod bushings are positioned differently than the 9496.

Hmmm

I'm stilll trying to figure out what an "end link" is.....

[Jehangir]

Is the end link the thing that connects the sway bar to the transverse link?

[squeefoo]

Is the end link the thing that connects the sway bar to the transverse link?

Yes.

His car is an active model...

I don't know who has what -just that the tension rod bushings are different sizes...

[Gatis]

Just try to drive on bumpy paving and slowly apply the brakes... rattling sopped? The front passenger side brake caliper makes the sound. Rails are corroding and start to "play", but this is only comfort thing on slow driving. On hi-speed does not sound at all. And usually safe to drive.This is common for BMW and Nissan/ Infiniti after 10 yers of service.

Gatis

[Q451990]

Oh, and Wes, I have read that the notch on the bushing should be in line with "bar" on the tension rod. But the tension rod that I took off my car had the notch a 180 degrees from what the FSM says. Also the Tension rod which I bought has the notch in the same position as the one I took off. I wonder if the 9093 tension rod bushings are positioned differently than the 9496.

Are you referring to the arrow? There has been quite a bit of discussion about this in the past. The OEM rods that I removed from "Q1" and "Q2" had the arrows pointing forward (not toward the rods) - as well as the replacement rods I bought - so I think it's a misprint in the service manual. Most things in the "Nissan" world are marked with an arrow pointing forward, so that's another part of the reason I think it's a misprint in the manual.

Heath

[RobertsnewQ]

Just try to drive on bumpy paving and slowly apply the brakes... rattling sopped? The front passenger side brake caliper makes the sound. Rails are corroding and start to "play", but this is only comfort thing on slow driving. On hi-speed does not sound at all. And usually safe to drive.This is common for BMW and Nissan/ Infiniti after 10 yers of service.

Gatis

And old Dodges, funny enough. That's a very good thing to look for.

[Jehangir]

I agree Heath