Replacing Bushings (energy suspenison)

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carps13guy
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eh, thats ok, if i had that much cool s*** i'd probably act like a kid in a candy store. prob install it all in one day just cuz putting new parts on a car is soo much fun.


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simmode1
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I keep telling myself I want to wait until I have coilovers, Z32 uprights and a 5 lug conversion kit before I do anymore work on my s13. That nice aero on my car with lowering springs will look lame...

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-RJ-
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well this sucks i just found 2 cracks about 2 inches long on my subframe =( well i guess time for a new subframe lol

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nifares240
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The only bushings you really replace are the following if updating all the arms:

frontLower control arms

rearlower control arms and bushings in the rear knuckle.

carps13guy
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nifares240 wrote:The only bushings you really replace are the following if updating all the arms:

frontLower control arms

rearlower control arms and bushings in the rear knuckle.
i disagree. the knuckle w/new es bushngs & rlca's alone made a huge difference. then when i stuck my adj. arms & spherical bearings in there was not more rear end deflection & the car is super predictable when stepping the rear out. i say do em all, u got the kit & everything is apart. might as well

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maj Andres
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nifares240 wrote:The only bushings you really replace are the following if updating all the arms:

frontLower control arms

rearlower control arms and bushings in the rear knuckle.
Don't forget the sway bars bushings, subframe, and diff.

Yay! I finished the FLCA bushings w/ ball joints.

Burned out the bushing but kept the sleeve (have to) then I went to town on it with a dremel with sand paper attachment. Removing the rubber was such a PITA for me.





Fresh bushings getting pressed in. So easy to install, I pushed them in with my hands.

Feels great knowing that I'm rolling on fresh bushings and ball joints

Next is tie rods and then on to the SPL arms and stance's that I bought in June But not before I slap on that KAAZ that I got coming in the mail...
Modified by maj Andres at 4:57 PM 11/16/2009

carps13guy
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maj Andres wrote:Don't forget the sway bars bushings, subframe, and diff.

Yay! I finished the FLCA bushings w/ ball joints.

Burned out the bushing but kept the sleeve (have to) then I went to town on it with a dremel with sand paper attachment. Removing the rubber was such a PITA for me.]Fresh bushings getting pressed in. So easy to install, I pushed them in with my hands.

Feels great knowing that I'm rolling on fresh bushings and ball joints

Next is tie rods and then on to the SPL arms and stance's that I bought in June But not before I slap on that KAAZ that I got coming in the mail...

Modified by maj Andres at 4:57 PM 11/16/2009
good stuff man. thats my next project as well. my left front lca is bent. so im buying a new set from frsports & then gonna press in some black ES poly like you did

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Didderson
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nice job man. I really want to get my front LCA's done the most... I think it would help my turn-in feel.

carps13guy
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Didderson wrote:nice job man. I really want to get my front LCA's done the most... I think it would help my turn-in feel.
i noticed a moderate improvement on turn in w/my peak performance tension rods. but the biggest impovement ive felt was from aluminum subframe collars. the car turns in much quicker now and feels more stable too. there only 60 something bucks and the only downside is the added differential noise, but i dont mind it for the performance those lil guys add

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Didderson
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Thanks for the tip man. I have the PBM subframe risers... solid alum rear 'bushing' replacements, but I only have OEM with energy susp. tension rod bushings. I'll have to add that to the never ending list lol. Also play with camber front vs rear a bit more.

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White Comet
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looking good. i did mine last winter and it was a pain to get started but once you get the hang of it its not so bad. to remove the ball joints i heated them up with an oxy acetylene torch and hit em once with a hammer. for the bushings i put em in a bench vise clamped at the bushing to be removed. i put a socket that was the perfect size of the bushing on one side and on the other side a larger socket so that as i tightened the bushing would push out

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maj Andres
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Has anyone replaced the bushing on the differential? the ones that go on the subframe? Do they need to be burned out?

carps13guy
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maj Andres wrote:Has anyone replaced the bushing on the differential? the ones that go on the subframe? Do they need to be burned out?
they might need to be burned out. im only saying this because most bushings are easier to remove by fire rather than press. you should replace em w/the spl solid aluminum bushigs, thats what i wish i had money for right now.

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maj Andres
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carps13guy wrote:
they might need to be burned out. im only saying this because most bushings are easier to remove by fire rather than press. you should replace em w/the spl solid aluminum bushigs, thats what i wish i had money for right now.
I've read that aluminum rides kinda rough, and I DD my car. I think poly is good enough for me.

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Steady_One_S13
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maj Andres wrote:Has anyone replaced the bushing on the differential? the ones that go on the subframe? Do they need to be burned out?
I recently swapped a Z32 diff in my s13. It was easier to punch out the rubber bushing, then hammer out the sleeve using a socket (same diameter as the sleeve). It easily came out with a few whacks with a trusty hammer. Not too sure about the subframe ones.

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maj Andres
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How did you punch out the rubber bushing on the subframe for the diff? Did you put a socket over it? If you did, what size was it?

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Steady_One_S13
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Don't remember what size of socket I used, but it covered the sleeve. Actually, it's the front bushings on the z32 diff I was referring. I have an S13, so I don't have bushings on the subframe.

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IanS
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Just a little tip for everyone when installing bushings. DO NOT CUT THE LIP OFF. Its there for a reason, and without it, you are kind of defeating the purpose of going through all the work.

Its a pain to get them in, but it is possible. There are certain tricks, if you have access to a press, or even a ball joint press like the one above. It helps if you press the bushing in first, and the center sleeve in afterwards. The hardest thing to do, is getting the bushing to go in straight without popping out. To keep this from happening, use a large 3/8 drive socket, that slips over the press head, put a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on the socket. Slip the bushing over the adapter, and press as normally. This keeps the bushing from moving off center.

I have installed 2 full bushing sets, and I will be doing a third here in the next few weeks. I can do a writeup if anyone wants.

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tEknoS13
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That would be great and very useful to many. I am about to do lower control arm bushings on my 240.

S14toRPS13
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FlatBlackIan wrote:
I have installed 2 full bushing sets, and I will be doing a third here in the next few weeks. I can do a writeup if anyone wants.
Yes, please do so. I envy those of you who have changed out all of your bushings. One day, I'll find the time and courage to do my own. Until then,

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Didderson
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S14toRPS13 wrote:
Yes, please do so. I envy those of you who have changed out all of your bushings. One day, I'll find the time and courage to do my own. Until then,
when you have a set of rear knucks/ rear LCA's from your last car that you wrecked it makes it easier... but after breaking a few tools i gave up for awhile LOL im in the same boat

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IanS
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Didderson wrote:
when you have a set of rear knucks/ rear LCA's from your last car that you wrecked it makes it easier... but after breaking a few tools i gave up for awhile LOL im in the same boat
When I did the S14, I dropped the whole rear subframe to make my life easier. The car was in storage for the winter anyway, so I was like why not.

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maj Andres
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FlatBlackIan wrote:Just a little tip for everyone when installing bushings. DO NOT CUT THE LIP OFF. Its there for a reason, and without it, you are kind of defeating the purpose of going through all the work.

I have installed 2 full bushing sets, and I will be doing a third here in the next few weeks. I can do a writeup if anyone wants.
Which lip? on the subframe where it attaches to the body or....on the subframe where it attaches to the differential?

Horay for doing a write up to cover all the small details, tricks to use that the rest of these write ups fail to cover.

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IanS
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maj Andres wrote:
Which lip? on the subframe where it attaches to the body or....on the subframe where it attaches to the differential?

Horay for doing a write up to cover all the small details, tricks to use that the rest of these write ups fail to cover.
The lip on the bushing. The one you cut off in your first picture.

I have seen lots of people make this mistake. If you do it on the rear knuckles, the control arms can physically slide off the bushing during hard cornering/braking/accelerating. It defeats the purpose of upgrading. That lip is what holds the bushing in place. Its hard to install for a reason.


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