Repairing after an accident

[dibsen]

My new neighbor has a boosted 240 that got smashed by a drunk driver a couple of months ago. He bought it already boosted, and both of us have limited turbo knowledge.

We got it started yesterday and it is running like crap.

The exhaust mani is leaking, we're gonna get a new gasket today. Along with some fresh oil, fuel filter and check the plugs.

All the ic piping seems tight but the pvc valve on the valve cover is non exsitant. He showed me a pic before the crash and it didn't have one then ether.

the car does not have a wide band sensor. It does have a egt gauge.

he has all the pic of the car, so maybe I can put some up latter.

[VirginiaPS13]

SOOOOOOO.............Was there a question in there somewhere or did you just wanna let all of us know what was going on?BTW, Welcome to Nico.

[dibsen]

maybe I was just looking for some sympathy.

No, I just wanted to start up the thread. I'm sure after today I'll come up with some dum Q's.

But for now I found what I needed on the site (wich totaly rocks )and thanks for the welcome.

[VirginiaPS13]

I hear yaLOL...I was just messin with ya....But yeah there isnt to much that hasnt been covered on this site..the Search button is your best friend.

[dibsen]

OK we got the motor runing, and from what I found on the site got the timing set to 16 BTDC. (I wanted to pull 4 deg of timing from the 20. Did I go backward? should it be at 24 BTDC?)

Idle is good, but when you start to open the throtle under load, the motors falls on its face. I'll have to take some pics (camera is f'ed up) to show the ic piping.

The intercooler and piping took the majority of the damage. The new set up is one ugly Frankenstien of a creation and that is were I think the problem is now.

All the vac lines are good eccept for the pcv. It just doesn't have one.

However, now that it is runnig I told my freind to just drive it down to the shop and let them figure it out.

[WDRacing]

If there is a leak after the turbo, then the computer has already measured the proper amount of fuel to add for the amount of air the MAF thinks is about to be ingested. If there is a leak, then the motor will bog down due to an over rich condition. The EGT gauge should read alot cooler as the motor bogs.

How much boost are you running. The ideal amount of timing retard is .5 degree's per lb of boost once you're over 6 psi. If you're running about 1 bar of boost (14psi) then 4 degree's is about right. But taking out base timing is not the best method. You're better off reducing boost to about 10, adding in some timing and getting somthing to retard timing with once you have everything sorted. Like the MSD BTM, or EManage or standalone.

Do you have any details of the setup? Like turbo size, injector size, engine management?

We can definitly help you out.

Welcome to NICO and happy boosting.

WD

[dibsen]

T3/4, 440, flashed ecu, egt

[pr240sx]

Until you have all the bugs worked, please run it NA. Just bypass the turbo so you dont risk blowing something out.

Welcome to KA-t world on NICO

[Florida240sx]

If you got a tuned ecu you should put your timing at 20 degrees then

[dibsen]

ad

Until you have all the bugs worked, please run it NA. Just bypass the turbo so you dont risk blowing something out.

Welcome to KA-t world on NICO

advice taken

[WDRacing]

I just read you're in FWB. I used to be stationed at Hurlburt Fld. I miss the gulf coast man...beatiful place to live.

[dibsen]

I just read you're in FWB. I used to be stationed at Hurlburt Fld. I miss the gulf coast man...beatiful place to live.

yup. It doesn't get much better than getting plastered a crab island every weekend. although the cops here suck. A lot. They keep saying they want to move me to New Mexico. I told them if they did I would quite.

[dibsen]

I'm gonna try to take some pics of the set up today. I think the problem is fuel, too rich (I could be way off). I'll be sure to get close-ups of the fuel system. We don't know much about it.

[Charlie240sxt]

IF he has a tuned ECU you need to set the timing back to stock. Build a fake boost builder A pvc cap with a valve stem though it with motor off put the thing on where the air filter is and get aboout 15psi with a air conpresser and find the leaks

[dibsen]

[EstoMax]

wow..never seen the overflow tank repositioned like that.

[Charlie240sxt]

anyone one else notice the RHD??

[Tulsa_S-13]

Yea, a RHD KA-T.

Haha! Neat!

[dibsen]

anyone one else notice the RHD??

good eye.

[pr240sx]

and NO wipers!!!

[dibsen]

well guys and gals, it looks like the silvia is getting put to the side for now. We just got the 2g dsm up and running, pushing about 13lbs of boost, and that seems to be satisfying our need for boost. For now.

I don't know what gonna hapen to the silvia. Steve might want to sell her to pic up some more parts for the dsm. So if any of yall might be interested keep an eye on the "for sale" threads, she might be up for grabs.

[dibsen]

Well the silvia is still in the same condition it was last left in. Running like sh*t. And I couldn't convince my friend to get it into a shop

But now I want to try a different set of injectors. I was told that if a set of inj sit for a while the diaphram can get stuck and they won't work right.

So here is the question. I have a set of 460cc Rx7(na) inj. These should be OK to run in the KA, yes?

[480sx]

So, since this is kinda an old thread and wasnt really that clear can we just get some information from you?

From what iv gathered, the car was in a front end wreck. Before this the car ran great. Then after you got the engine running after the wreck it ran like crap. Then, you found that the intercooler piping was cracked, and you replaced it. So now, it idles well but wont boost up? Give us as much information as you possibly can, the little stuff will help us figure out what the problem is.

Before you go swapping injectors or parts you need to figure out what your problem is. Its much easier/cheaper to figure out whats wrong in the first place, then go replacing parts if required. If you just go in and start swapping stuff out you can compound your problem then youv really got a nightmare.

Btw, thats a wild Ka-T setup there. Im not liking that oil feed line.. Is that really hooked on with a damn barbed fitting + a worm drive clamp? Thats asking for disaster..

[dibsen]

You pretty much have the gyst of it.

The car really needs to get in a shop where it can get properly diagnosed and proper replacement parts for things like the oil feed. My buddy just doesn't have the funds to have it towed to a shop and stuff.

We have replaced some basics, wich I thought would be a good place to start. 1) New plugs and wires2) Fresh oil/filter3) fresh gas and charged the bat over night.4) new fuel filterWe also had the turbo off and put some copper gasket on the mani/turbo.but thats about it.

The cars symtoms remain the same. It will start and idle, you can drive it gingerly around the block, but any application of throttle and the motor sputters, chokes, and pretty much stalls

If somebody wants to do a step by step diagnosis with us we would be greatful. That is really the only chance my buddy has to get this thing on the road again.

[480sx]

What are your EGT's like when you are driving the car around the block? After the cars warm, drive it around and take the average EGT temp that its reading and let us know. That should help us figure out if its a fuel problem or not.

Are you able to neutral rev the car?

[dibsen]

You can rev in nuetral but you can't step on it, you can only ease on the gas.

I don't know what his schedual is tomorrow, I'll have to get back to you on the egt's.

Anything else you can think of?

[480sx]

Your problem could be a vac leak man. Do you know how to do a boost leak test? Basically you pressurize your turbo, ic pipes and your intake manifold, and listen for escaping air. If you dont know how, the FAQ at the top of this forum has what you need to do to make a tester.

[WDRacing]

Sounds like that could be exactly it. A bad coupler or cut coupler will make it stutter and bog with any amount of throttle.

[DevilMB3017]

And in those pictures it looks like there is a lot of stress being applied to the couplers, espically the one right by the turbo outlet.

I was having some problems like this, and it turned out I had the clamps too tight and acutally had torn through some of the silicon, but it didn't leak until I was +7-8 lbs of boost, which is similar to your symptons.

[nelson8708]

you need to get the mafs further away from the turbo. Put a 90 degree bend in between them if you can.